Monday, January 27, 2020

MAURA LAVERTY – THIS WAS YOUR LIFE. "FULL and PLENTY" at BALLYMALOE

press release
MAURA LAVERTY – THIS WAS YOUR LIFE
Ballymaloe Grainstore
Pre-Show Dinner in Ballymaloe House Will Feature Recipes from Maura Laverty’s Iconic Cookery Book, Full and Plenty
Friday 28 February 2020

The sparkling new play, Maura Laverty – This Was Your Life, comes to Ballymaloe Grainstore on Friday 28 February. It tells the rollercoaster life of the broadcaster, playwright, novelist and agony aunt, Maura Laverty.
A household name in Ireland for three decades, her work was often controversial and her novels were banned by the censors for their sexual frankness.  In the 1960s her cookery books, with their unique blend of recipes and stories, were found in nearly every home in the country.
Maura is spirited back from the dead as a guest on a surreal TV show called This Was Your Life. She cooks a recipe on stage from her iconic 1960 cookbook, Full and Plenty, and talks about her dramatic and difficult life.
The host gets Maura to reveal dark secrets and confront the price she paid for her success.  Moving from comedy to tragedy, the play reassesses the legacy of a trailblazing Irishwoman and examines a life of triumph and heartache.
A pre-show dinner inspired by Maura’s Full and Plenty recipes will be served in Ballymaloe House at 6pm.  Head Chef Dervilla O’Flynn has created a three-course menu of deliciously ‘retro’ choices. Booking [€53 per person] is essential on 021 465 2531. A special ‘Play and Stay’ accommodation package includes overnight in Ballymaloe House, dinner, show tickets and breakfast.  Packages are from €185 per person sharing.
The Curious Ensemble production is written by Yvonne Quinn and Bairbre Ní Chaoimh, the authors of the enduringly popular award-winning Stolen Child. It stars Bairbre Ní Chaoimh as Maura and Malachy McKenna as television host, Rip Riley.  It is directed by Joan Sheehy.
Running time is 1 hour and 20 minutes with no interval.
Tickets for Maura Laverty – This Was Your Life in Ballymaloe Grainstore on Friday 28 February are €22.  They can be bought online at www.ballymaloegrainstore.com or by phone on 021 475 7200.

MAURA LAVERTY FULL AND PLENTY MENU IN BALLYMALOE HOUSE
Starter
 Cream of Spinach Soup 
or 
Winter Salad of Farm Eggs, Beetroot and Lettuce with Traditional Dressing
Main Course
 Steak and Kidney Pie 
or 
Duck Rineanna with Apple and Cider Stuffing
Duchesse Potatoes, Leeks au Gratin, Glazed Carrots
Dessert
Floating Islands with Poached Rhubarb or Plums

PRESS QUOTES FOR MAURA LAVERTY – THIS WAS YOUR LIFE:
Writer Maura Laverty’s life is a fascinating tale of talent and tenacity; she is brought back to life in this charming play full of detail, wit and tragedy. Bairbre Ní Chaoimh (who plays Laverty in this hugely enjoyable production) cooks a Spanish omelette as the show progresses.  For younger audiences this is a fascinating picture of how a strong woman refused to play nice in the restrictive post-war decades and worked her way bang into the centre of Irish cultural life. Her ghost will be well pleased. – The Irish Independent
A witty and entertaining journey through the writer’s life, with Ms Ní Chaoimh in splendid form as the pugnacious Laverty. – Irish Mail on Sunday

Sunday, January 26, 2020

Great Start to the Day at Good Day Deli


Great Start to the Day at Good Day Deli
GDD Benny

It was with a good gut feeling that we headed to Good Day Deli for a recent breakfast. And it was with a very good gut feeling that we left this oasis in the gardens of Nano Nagle Place off Douglas Street Cork.

You won’t get your Full Irish here as GDD is close to being fully vegetarian; they do offer a few (sustainable) fish dishes. Owners Claire and Kristin bill the restaurant as a “Sustainable Foods Cafe serving a mix of healthy, local, seasonal, organic and fair trade foods with a commitment to sustainability throughout our food chain. We aim to inspire sustainable lifestyles in Ireland by empowering people to make good food choices that will boost health and wellbeing; elevate local producers; support animal welfare; and protect the environment now and for future generations.”. 
Pear & Pancakes

And they have a host of local suppliers recruited to help them attain those goals.  Organic for Us (milk), Holo Organics (Kombucha); My Goodness (Kefir), Wilkie’s Organic Chocolate, West Cork Coffee, Blanco Nino (tortillas), Pana Bread, and Leamlara Micro-greens, are among the names on the January list.

There is a Kia Orana (welcome) sign on the path up to the restaurant and the welcome inside is warm, smiles and chat and no shortage of info about the menu. We are spoiled for choice, everything from Morena Granola to a Vibrant Vegan Trio to Connolly’s Any Way Organic Eggs. 

I’ve enjoyed their Benny here before and was tempted by the Smoked Beetroot version, also by the Stack of Seared Toons Bridge Halloumi. The Kia Orana Bruschetta (Ardsallagh Goats Cheese with caramelised Mealagulla apples) also beckoned.

My pick though was the Good Day Deli Smoked Salmon Benny. Frank Hederman’s superb salmon came with two organic poached eggs, a very well made Hollandaise (perfect in both quality and quantity), toasted seeds and leafy greens all on sourdough. Delicious!

CL’s choice was the The Hibiscus Poached Pear Pancakes (chunkier than usual), tasty too with a poached organic pear, coconut mascarpone and a drizzle of the Hivemind Honey from the innovative Crosshaven farm.

The drinks here are that bit different too, including a selection of natural wines via Le Caveau. Of course, they have teas and coffees but be sure and study the menu further. You may well like the Coco Mocha (a mocha or hot chocolate with rich Wilkies chocolate plus West Cork Coffee Espresso with coffee, coconut and Maple Cream Whip!)

And then there’s the Hibiscus Soda (a mix of Hibiscus and Poached Pear, with citrus fruits juice, fresh mint and Fizz). A beautifully refreshing soda is what the menu card says and I can confirm that for sure. Absolutely delicious and refreshing. And another superb drink, CL’s choice, was the Apple Juice from Mealagulla in Ovens.

Just as much choice on the lunch menu. But that’s another day’s work! Or should I say another day’s pleasure.

Nano Nagle Place, Douglas Street, Cork T12X704
Phone: 021 4322107





Friday, January 24, 2020

Amuse Bouche


They’ve been watching a Jamie Oliver cookery show. Her choice. Jamie Oliver’s doing locally sourced fish. Pamela doesn’t even eat fish fingers for fear of choking on the bones, but she is obsessed with Jamie Oliver. She thinks he’s good-looking in a London sort of way. ‘Like Michael Portillo,’ she explains, and Sammy understands this is something to do with the way they are both fleshy about the lip….  Sammy thinks Jamie Oliver is a gobshite. He has no interest in locally sourced fish.
He’d barely had time to get comfortable before Pamela suggested he go upstairs and have a word with Mark.
‘You should go up and talk to him,’ she said.

from The Fire Starters by Jan Carson (2019). Highly Recommended.

Thursday, January 23, 2020

Come to Table. The café in Brown Thomas Cork


Come to Table.
The café in Brown Thomas Cork

If you are in Cork City centre outside Brown Thomas and someone asks you the location of the restaurant in this store - there are two possible answers. If the visitor is from the US, Table (the name of the restaurant) is on the third floor, if he or she is from the UK, Table is on the second floor*. No confusion though about the quality at Table; it is excellent as we found out at a recent lunch.

We were in for lunch. After a smile and a welcome, we were shown to our table and the menu handed to us. It was headed Brunch but all the dishes listed were lunch items - no Eggs Benedict or Smoked Salmon and Eggs.

It was quite a tempting selection in any event, soup or chowder to start with (if you wished), then lots of salads, a more substantial cod dish, chicken supreme also, there were a few veggie options (including a sweet potato and red lentil dhal), a Bacon Cheeseburger plus a Tex Mex Chicken Burger.

I had put my eye immediately on the Salmon Nicoise, Marinated Green beans, Baby Potatoes, egg, crispy croutons and green leaves. And, after a hesitation or two, that was what I ordered. Very happy with this large plateful of tasty fish and veg (those green marinated beans were a standout).

CL picked the Falafel and roasted Mediterranean Vegetable Salad, lemon tahini dressing (vegan). This dish had just been added to the menu and our friendly server told her the chef would be looking for feedback. And he got a good one. Another dish packed full of flavour and not a little colour. The Kemp sisters, owners of the café, are indeed noted for light and colourful dishes, just like the modern art prints around the walls.

We took up the option of having a cup of soup with the mains. The soup of the day was Sweet Potato and Coconut. It was really top notch and so too was the brown bread that came with it. They have a short list of wines here, some bubbles too. But we went for the juices and got two very good ones indeed. CL had a generous glass (all portions are fairly generous here) of just squeezed orange juice while I hit the jackpot with a bottle of Rhubarb and Ginger Lemonade (produced by Limerick’s Wild Orchard).

Finished off with a cup of coffee and a Apple and Cinnamon Crumble with Vanilla Ice-cream from Featherbed Farm. Again that dessert was quite large; more importantly, it was also top notch, the real thing!

Table is run by sisters Peaches and Domini Kemp, who started off their joint food business about 20 years ago with “one employee, one small van and a helluva lot of prayers”. Their first venture was to introduce bagels to Ireland. More recently, they are also to be found in stores such as Brown Thomas, under the Little Museum of Dublin in Hatch and Sons, and in the Irish Museum of Modern Art. What a long way they have come!
. 
Brown Thomas
19 Patrick Street
Cork
021 480 5555

* Apparently, the Americans start counting from the ground floor while the UK and Ireland start from the floor above the ground level. But, with the globalisation of the English language, there’s bound to be some confusion.

Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Taste of the Week. Wicklow Blue


Taste of the Week
Wicklow Blue

I’ve highlighted this delicious Wicklow cheese here a few years back and it’s well due another run as Taste of the Week. It is delicate and mild, no extreme tang here.

This beautiful cheese is also fresh and flavoursome and has won a string of awards, both at home and abroad, and is used by top chefs. Be sure and check out their other cheeses as well, particularly the companion Wicklow Bán.

I bought my Wicklow Blue in Bradley’s but Wicklow Farmhouse Cheeses are widely available, including in the main supermarkets. Check stockists here.  

Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
Curranstown,
Arklow,
Co. Wicklow

GPS Coordinates:
52.779588, -6.196921

Phone: +353 (0) 402 91713
Mobile: +353 (0) 872515980

Emailwfcheese@eircom.net
Web: www.wicklowfarmhousecheese.ie













Tuesday, January 21, 2020

Organic Wine Film Features in The 1st Night of Ideas


Organic Wine Film Features in The 1st Night of Ideas

My friend Mary recalls, that back then (twenty years ago),  there were probably about 40 stands, now it’s over 1,200 and still increasing*. She was talking about the organic wine fair, Millésime Bio, in Montpelier at the end of this month. 

Funny how things come together. Just finished reading that message when I noticed this intriguing title on a Facebook post: The 1st Night of Ideas in Cork: 'Wine Calling’. As you probably guessed, the wine word hooked me.

What’s it all about? The Irish Premiere Screening of 'Wine Calling’ is the short answer. Cork International Film Festival, in partnership with the French Embassy in Ireland, Institut Français and Alliance Française Cork, presents the Irish premiere of French documentary ‘Wine Calling’ (Le vin se lève) as part of The Night of Ideas, a worldwide initiative spearheaded by the Institut Français.

The post continues: “While there are more than 3,000 (me: reckon there’s an important zero missing here) wine producers in France, less than 3% of them use natural methods of wine production. For ethical reasons, this small community has chosen environmentally friendly practices, aimed at finding the natural expression of terroir and the living character of the wine. Director Bruno Sauvard followed this revolution in the South of France over the course of a year, from the harvest to the bottling, revealing a global movement for organic taste and sustainability.”

Less than ten years ago I remember a leading executive of the very large importer (UK and Ireland) discounting the possibility. Besides, some prominent wine writers were among the sceptics.  But the message was getting across. In 2013, at that year's Lit Fest in Ballymaloe, Mary Dowey (then with the Irish Times and a source of encouragement to Mary Pawle) said she thought the move to organic and biodynamic was one of “the most positive sides to the wine world”.  

The rise of organic wine has been quite remarkable over a relatively short period of time as Mary Pawle’s experience and figures (approximate) indicate. It was indeed Mary who was telling me about Millesime Bio. She and Ivan will be there.

“Mainly,’’ she says,  “it’s a perfect opportunity to catch up with most of our producers, taste new vintages and tank samples and generally keep up to date with the ever increasing organic wine scene and we usually have one or two gaps in our range that we want to fill.’’ Bio is held over three days, 27th, 28th, 29th January.
The Cellar Theatre in the old wine vaults of Woodford Bourne on Sheares Street, a very appropriate venue.

Still a social call to some degree for the Kenmare based wine importer but Mary brings good walking shoes. “Nowadays I have to plan my meetings carefully to minimise trekking from hall to hall.  It’s not all work though and we do have plenty of fun meeting up with old friends and importers from other countries who we've known for many years and Montpellier has plenty of decent restaurants to keep us happy in the evenings.”

While Mary and Ivan will be in the south of France, the film will be screened in the intimate Cellar Theatre of the Mardyke Entertainment Complex in Sheares Street, Cork and will be followed by a panel discussion on The Night of Ideas theme “Being alive: ecological balances and the relation of man to the world, in a global context of biodiversity loss as a result of climate change” with special guest contributors: Nicolas Manuel, film producer;  Colm McCan and Pascal Rossignol, Le Caveau Wines; Dr. Oliver Moore, University College Cork Centre for Cooperative Studies and ACR2020 and Joe McNamee, Food Columnist and Food Feature Writer, the Irish Examiner, Contributing Editor with the McKennas’ Irish Food Guide, Contributing Editor with Taste of Ireland. And the finalé will be a wine reception, an opportunity to sample organic and natural French wines, specially selected by Le Caveau Wines.

Tickets: €12 / €10 concession. Book here via the Cork International Film Festival.  The January 30th event is scheduled to commence at 6.00pm and finish at 8.30pm.

Find out about more about the other Night of Ideas events in Ireland :

  • Bio is even bigger again this year. According to the official 2020 listings, Vignerons Propriétés Associés have stall number one while Les Vignerons D’Estezargues have stall number 1356.
  • Spain's Bodegas Pinuaga, one of the growers that Mary Pawle imports from, are very clear in their motives for using organic methods and they explain it well here - you may have to use the translate button! 



Monday, January 20, 2020

A Superb Set of Organic Wines from Bodegas y Vinedos Pinuaga


A Superb Set of Wines from Bodegas y Vinedos Pinuaga 
In 1960, the first generation of Pinuaga winemakers established the winery in the village of Corral de Almaguer, province of Toledo.  They planted special old clones of Tempranillo  called Cencibel with smaller grains, silky skin and longer ripening cycles.

Today, the second and third generation of the Pinuaga family, Valentin and Esther, maintain the old vines with much care and pride, following a minimal intervention philosophy, using natural and artisanal winemaking processes and recovering indigenous clones.The quality of the wines is driven by the characteristic of the soils, age of vines, grape variety and organic farming practices; all of these parameters are present in every wine, making them singular and unique.

Altitude is a key factor here, as it is in much of Spain. According to the World Atlas of Wine, “a good 90% of all Spanish vineyards lie at altitudes higher than any major French wine region” and this, especially in Castilla y Leon, helps maintain acidity enough to keep the wines relatively fresh. The altitude benefit means “growers can depend on cool nights to ‘fix’ colour and flavour in the grapes ripened during the torrid summer days”.  

The Pinuaga vineyard area is really windy. The winemakers appreciate its benefits: “The vineyards are well aerated so it's a very healthy terroir. There is a lot of changes between the day and night temperatures too, which are very good for the ripening of the fruits.”

Pinuaga is situated close to the city of Toledo in central Spain, this is a huge wine making region with more land under vine than the whole of Australia. The wines are now being imported to Ireland by Mary Pawle and, as is consistently the case with Mary, are keenly priced.

Bodegas Pinuaga are very clear in their motives for using organic methods and they explain it well here - you may have to use the translate button! You'll notice they use cork in all their bottles. Why? "The use of cork helps maintain cork oak trees, which amongst many other things retain Co2. We have just received our first certificate with the details on our contribution in tons of retention of Co2." Their use of cork stoppers in the 12 months ended 31st December 2018 yielded a certified saving of 14.17 tonnes of Co2.

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto (Tempranillo) “Nature” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 2016, 13.5%, €16.60, Mary Pawle.


Dark red, more or less burgundy, is the colour. Red berries feature in aromas, blackcurrant and plum also in the mix. Much the same vibrant fruit features on the palate, some spice too, well-integrated tannins. Smooth and easy-drinking but with quite a noticeable backbone to it, right through to the lingering finish. One of the best Tempranillos I’ve come across and so Very Highly Recommended.

The fruit is hand-harvested by night, aged in stainless steel for almost a year and then “a slight oak ageing in used barriques for 3 months”. The producers are very happy with this organic wine: “It is a very versatile wine that you can pair or simply drink on its own." It is indeed, very quaffable and suggested pairings are:  Rice, pasta and all sorts of tapas. Casseroles also suggested.


Bodegas Pinuaga Bianco, Vino de la Tierra Castilla 2018, 12.5%, €13.20 Mary Pawle

This is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes that are hand harvested mid August, fermented in small steel tanks and kept on lees for a minimum of 2 months. 

Light gold, hint of green. Apples, gooseberries, leaf notes, in the aromas. More towards citrus on the palate, something of a tingle as well. Good nettle-y acidity though. And a long dry finish, fruit and a little spice there to the end. It’s easy drinking and the producers suggest this crisp and lively wine as a suitable companion for salads, pastas or tapas or, because it is so refreshing, excellent too to drink on its own. Very Highly Recommended.

Sauvignon Blanc is known as a cool climate grape (the Loire and Marlborough for example) and the Toledo terroir that Pinuaga farms has a couple of things going for it in that regard. First the altitude is close to 800 meters above sea-level and, second, the area is quite windy. 

In addition, there is quite a difference between the day and night temperatures, very good for the ripening of the fruits. Decanter indicates that a large diurnal range can help grapes to ripen in a more balanced way. “Warmer daytime temperatures help to foster sugar development, but cool nights can help to preserve aromas, freshness and acidity.” 

Read more from Decanter here


Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto, Vino de la Tierra Castilla 2018, 13%, €13.20, 

This lively young wine is a blend of Garnacha & Tempranillo (Cencibel) grapes, from a single vineyard of 5Ha of Grenache and  3 Ha of old Tempranillo bush vines. Hand harvested in early September. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks.

Mid to dark ruby, bright. Fresh and fruity on the nose, nothing too intense. Young and expressive, crisp and lively plus a decent finish as well. Your lips will tell you the tannins are still a factor. Nice touch of smoothness though in the mouthfeel. Very approachable and should have no problem pairing with the suggested salads, tapas, pintos and bbq (serve at 12 degrees). Good idea to have a few of these in the cellar or in your usual cool dark spot! Highly Recommended.



Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “La Senda” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2017, 13.5%, €14.80 

Mid to dark ruby. A Burgundy nose is suggested but a warm and fairly intense one. There’s the rich dark fruit of the Merlot, the red fruit flavours of the Tempranillo, a touch of spice and acidity too and the whole reaches a delightful harmony from the sip to well after the swallow.  This unoaked blend has an impressive depth of flavour, a wine with back-bone, yet is an easy-drinking style, a casual wine on its own or with casual food such as Tapas, pizzas and pastas.  The suggested serving temperature is 16 degrees and the pairing suggestion that grabbed my attention was grilled rosemary scented lamb chops. Very Highly Recommended.

It is organic and the blend,aged over lees during 5 – 6 months in small stainless steel tanks”, is 80% Merlot and 20% Tempranillo. No surprise that Merlot makes an appearance here as Bordeaux had a long history and influence in the north of Spain. Pinuaga is a Basque surname that means 'place in the pines’. La Senda means a path. Looks like a pair of sandals on the label!


Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “Colección” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2016, 14.5%, €21.00 Mary Pawle

"This is a very special wine for us as it is the first wine we made at Pinuaga and hence why we call it Colección; Many of our customers recognize the label as the original Pinuaga wine. Grape Variety: 100% Tempranillo (Indigenous clone of Cencibel)."


Mid ruby’s the colour of this deep and intense organic wine. Aromas, red fruits to the fore, are a little on the shy side. It comes into its own on the palate, full of rich red fruit flavours, a touch of spice, smooth and rounded, tannins well integrated. Rich concentrated and elegant, it is certainly rather special and is Very Highly Recommended.

It is 100% Tempranillo from a single plot, aged for approximately 9 months in oak and that contributes to its overall character. 

Freshii restaurants have launched four delicious new healthy dishes

press release

Freshii Launches Plant Based Meatless Chilli,
Vegan Lemongrass Broth, Spicy Tomato Broth and Keto Cobb Salad


Keto Cobb Salad

Freshii, the world’s leading healthy fast food restaurant chain, has launched four delicious new healthy dishes in their Irish restaurants, for those kicking off 2020 with a new fitness or weight loss goals or trying a plant-based diet.

At Freshii you can hit your Keto goals with Freshii’s new ‘Keto Cobb Salad’ which is filled with romaine lettuce, field greens, chicken, cucumber, cabbage, avocado, egg, aged cheddar and topped with Freshii’s homemade Keto Dressing.  Costs €9.00 

Vegetarians and Vegans and those participating in Veganuary will love Freshii’s new plant-based meatless Chilli bowl which has 100% plant-based protein.   Freshii’s Vegan Chilli includes a Chilli sauce base (tomato base, kidney beans, black beans and corn), Pulled Oats (a vegan version of pulled pork), green onions and tortilla chips.   Costs €7.50 including wholemeal rice. 

Or if you’re just looking for something light and hot to warm you up on a Winter’s day try one of Freshii’s new delicious vegan broths – you can choose from either golden lemongrass or spicy tomato for €2.00.   Both are super soothing if you’re suffering from the effects of a cold or flu!

Dave O’Donoghue, CEO of Freshii Ireland said “Freshii’s menu is constantly evolving. In fact, every 90 days we roll out new items that incorporate the latest health and food trends.  This month we are really excited to add Vegan Chilli with a plant-based protein to our healthy menu – It’s our first bowl to include 100% plant-based protein.”   

“Our lead Nutritionist in Freshii is forever testing and tasting ways to make new food trends as nutrient-dense, accessible and crave-worthy as possible.    We’re hard-pressed to think of another fast food restaurant that’s led by nutrition in the same way Freshii is, on our scale. Turmeric juices, Energii Bites and grain bowls only skim the surface.  Freshii has seven different menu categories – bowls, burritos, salads, wraps, soups, smoothies & juices – and each one is full of innovation. We don’t say Eat. Energize for nothing.” 

Freshii even have vegan sweet treats, as they recently launched delicious and nutritious vegan Choc Orange Energii Bites to keep your energii levels up.  Choc orange bites are bountiful in flavour and nutrition, made with dates, orange, cacao, cashew nuts, oats and coconut.  Costs €2.00 for 2 bites.

* Freshii caters to every taste and dietary preference.

Sunday, January 19, 2020

Class Cuisine at The Glass Curtain. New Kid on the Thompsons Block


Class Cuisine at The Glass Curtain
New Kid on the Thompsons Block

The Glass Curtain has made an impressive debut on MacCurtain Street, the latest food outlet in the bustling area of Cork city, with something for every palate and wallet. And the buzz goes on - lots more to come. Much of it in the old Thompsons Building, once a key bakery for the city. 

Brian Murray’s Glass Curtain is one of the smaller developments in the cavern of a building. There is much more space being filled between the street back as far as Wellington Road. Another restaurant, a bar and a micro-brewery are coming soon as the Lynch family (who own the Cotton Ball brewery) continue the exciting development.
"Low Fashioned" on the right

But back to Brian and the Glass Curtain. He is very much  supporting local and indeed the craft beers on offer are from the Cotton Ball. They also have about a dozen tempting cocktails including one that I enjoyed on my recent visit. The “Low Fashioned” is a very tasty combination of Kinsale “Wild Red” Mead, Angostura, Demerara and Orange. 

Other local drinks featuring in the cocktail list include Longueville Apple Brandy, Blacks Gin and Kalak Peated Vodka. And one cocktail that you may well fancy, some of you for nostalgic reasons, is the Turkish Delight (Lychee liqueur, rose, orange blossom and soda). Those of you who remember Thompsons in its prime probably know that Hadji Bey Turkish Delight was made across the road. Quite an extensive wine list also and spirits too. So that’s the drinks. What of the food? 
Pic courtesy of The Glass Curtain.

Those of you on social media will have seen the Glass Curtain publish their first food pic (above) in mid January. In the comments, chef/owner Brian said “the menu has been a living restless thing since we opened last month. Changing daily, still defining our style and still a lot of work to be done. Here’s one our guests and ourselves have taken a real liking to: the tandoori monkfish, chargrilled, with roast cauliflower, mussels, saffron and baby leeks.” 

As it happened we were in the evening the photo was taken and one of our mains was that very dish and we gave it a big thumbs up. Don’t think there’s too much work to be done on this one, aside from seasonal variations of course!
Pork and cabbage and "gravy", but not like Granny's

My mains that evening was based on a collar of pork. You don’t see this very often on local menus. More’s the pity as it’s absolutely delicious. And the Glass Curtain version was even more so. Pork collars are a familiar item in Europe and because of their intense marbling are used to make traditional sausages such as coppa. 

The collar is cut from the shoulder portion that runs from the neck to the tip of the loin. Bord Bia have a recipe on their site here and say that the cut is very good value and that leftovers can be used in pulled pork sandwiches.

Brian, who cooks with “a lot of love and a little fire”, declares on their website that “flavour is our holy grail” and he certainly got that spot on with this dish, the umami of sauce an outstanding factor. The menu description is: Pork collar, miso, grilled winter cabbage and peanut rayu. Tender and delicious. Go for it!
Hake starter

Starters here are called Small Plates. CL enjoyed her Confit Hake, house XO sauce, and grilled broccoli, while my Cured red gurnard in roast onion dashi also went down well. That dashi was probably the star and I asked for a spoon to make sure I didn’t leave one delicious drop behind.
Gurnard and dashi. Should have had a sake with this!

Just three desserts on offer and, while our shared Honey Custard Tart (with nutmeg and fresh cream) was not quite on a par with the earlier courses, it was nonetheless polished off. Perhaps you may prefer the cheese offering: a selection of Irish cheese, Peter’s Yard crackers and honey.

The place itself is comfortable, seats about 35, and the service is excellent. Some seats will give you a good view of the open kitchen. We were absorbed when they started cooking their Beef Chop. This “monster” is about three  inches thick, I guess, and is for sharing. It is 35-day aged and they grill it on the bone. You may need one of the side dishes here, perhaps the  Smoked Heritage Potatoes with Beef Dripping! 

Thompson House
MacCurtain Street
Cork
Tel: (021) 451 8659



Saturday, January 18, 2020

Amuse Bouche



Word came that the cattle and the men would be home by evening….
All day the preparations were hectic. There were pots of soup, simmering. They had been made from peppers and onions, with different leaves for flavouring. In the dairy, women were busy making cheese balls, a speciality which they knew their men loved. … they let me sit among them. We could not communicate, and yet I was happy, content. Although I wanted to go home to my mother and our house, I was reluctant to leave. The place and the peaceful way of life had made me tranquil.
 from Girl by Edna O’Brien (2019). Very Highly Recommended.