Taste of the Week. Glenilen Mango & Passionfruit Cheesecake

Taste of the Week

Glenilen Mango & Passionfruit Cheesecake

No major discovery this week as many of you will have come across this gem before. The Glenilen Farm Mango & Passionfruit Cheesecake is a winner and is our latest Taste of the Week. Not alone is it delicious, it is also convenient! Forgot something for dessert? Well this is your gorgeous creamy solution.

The subtle flavour of the mango and the more intense passionfruit work so well together with the creamy topping. They had been using the fruits in their popular yogurts and just thought it would be a great idea to make a cheesecake. They were spot on and “it's proved very popular”.

And like many Glenilen products - you may check them all out here - the secret is not so much the exotic ingredients but the rich creamy milk from the beautiful green green grass of their West Cork farm. Reckon there’s more than one Taste of the Week in Drimoleague. Indeed, I think we’ve featured one or two in the past, including their fabulous butter.

Amuse Bouche. Bank Holiday special

------------ our friend Joyce began to open his oysters, which he made us eat au naturel, without bread or potatoes...... and we were obliged to wash them down with native Potcheen, less adulterated with water than we would have wished.

Nor did this suffice; Martin deemed himself a cook, and set about dressing scallops for our entertainment. He opened them, called for butter – and such butter! It was added to the fish, which were fried in the shell. And we were actually obliged to eat of this ragout, until I saw my companion’s face utterly discomposed by the extremity of his distress.

From Tom Robinson’s Connemara, A Little Gaelic Kingdom.

Amuse Bouche

As they left, she bribed the barman to part with a full bottle of Booth’s gin.

On the road back.., he asked, “What’s so special? One gin is much the same as another.”

“No, it’s not. You just take a sniff.”

She uncorked the bottle and wafted it under his nose as he drove.

“See? It’s sort of flowery and oily at the same time. Reminds me of home. God knows why. It’s as though they’d mingled summer and autumn - summer scents and autumn drizzle. A bit of England in a bottle.”

from A Lily of the Field by John Lawton

On a Dublin Hill – Easter 1916

On a Dublin Hill – Easter 1916

It was springtime in the mountains,

Walking free, blowing wild

Over lovers in the heather.

And a linnet sang on thistles

To a melody of kisses.

The sun was rising, rising

On the day of resurrection.

And a thorn tree was swaying

Keeping sunray from their eyes.

Then a sound like thunder

Shook the gladness from the day.

Sleepily, the lovers rose

From the shelter where they lay.

They strained their ears to hear

The breaking of the sky.

And in the streets of Dublin

Young men had choose to die.

A seagull from the sky came down,

Quick-dropping from the sun.

His weak twitching wings were blooded.

A rising had begun.

O’Brien’s March Offers. April's on the way...

O’Brien’s March Offers

April's on the way...

O’Brien’s, who have branches nationwide, have regular offers, including one that features dozens of wines with reduced prices for each month. I bought a few of the March bottles and two are featured below. Time is running out! But if you’re too late for March, then you’re in time for April.

Kreydenweiss Kritt Pinot Blanc 2014 (Alsace AOC), 12%, €17.95 (March offer 15.95) O’Brien’s

The initial contacts are promising, including the attractive front label. Color is a bright light gold and the aromas of white fruit are inviting. “A delicate fruity wine” it says on the label and I wouldn't argue too much with that. Delicate, yes, but with a very pleasant presence on the palate, an excellent balance of white fruit flavours, acidity and minerality, and a persistent finish.

This aromatic and dry wine is Highly Recommended. And not just by me. Parker has called it the best value wine in Alsace and our own John Wilson has termed it “captivating”.

Kritt is the vineyard name and it is a stony place. The wine, which features Pinot Blanc on the front label, has a quantity of Pinot Auxerrois blended in according to the back label.

Bethany G6 Semillon 2010 (Barossa, Australia), 12.5%, €18.45 (16.50) O’Brien’s

I do like Semillon on its own and have found some good examples from Bordeaux and from the Hunter Valley in Australia. This though is from the Barossa, where six generations of the Schrapel family have farmed on the same land, hence the G6 title of a series that also includes Riesling, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz Cabernet, and Cabernet Merlot.

Colour here is light gold with the aromas featuring grapefruit and I detected a little diesel there too which reminded me of a very sociable woman that I met at the Blarney St Patrick's Day Parade who was in her element as the vintage tractors rolled slowly by: “I love diesel!”. Indeed, my tasting partner asked me if we were tasting Riesling.

This Bethany is rather full on the palate, a great balance of fruit (citrus) and a crisp acidity. It has been sparingly oaked to enhance complexity and bottled early “to retain fresh fruit characteristics”. Recommended

Taste of the Week. Kilmichael Goats Cheese

Taste of the Week

Kilmichael Goats Cheese

It comes in simple packaging. Just a round label on top and a wrap of cellophane. But there is a little beauty inside and it is our Taste of the Week. Kilmichael Soft Goats Cheese is made in Terelton, near Macroom, by Brian and Ann Bond. I came across this one in the Fresh from West Cork Cabinet in Bradley’s, North Main Street, Cork, but you will find it in quite a few Farmers Markets as well.

The cheese is made from raw milk, from their mixed herd. It is soft and creamy, as you might imagine, but full of flavour too. And yet the balance of flavour is such that a beginner to goats cheese won't be put off and still there’s enough there to keep you more then happy if you indulge in these cheeses regularly.

Fish’s Special At Electric Bar. Is é an t-íasc is fearr

Fish’s Special At Electric Bar

Is é an t-íasc is fearr

Haddock Koftas

Early on a Friday evening, Electric is the place to be. Take last Friday for example. Around six o’clock, the main restaurant upstairs is full and the bar, with live music, is also busy though not full, not yet!

One of my favourite parts of the South Mall restaurant is The Fish Bar. We were among the first in - well it was about five!  We made our mind up quickly and went for all the specials. The meal was quite superb, not a weak link to be detected, not that we were looking for them, we were too busy enjoying our delicious platefuls.

Sipped an aromatic flavourful Tio Pepe Fino Sherry and took in the views up and down the south channel of the River Lee as we waited while the chef opposite prepared our opening courses.

Bisque with amazing Rouille croutons

Service, mainly provided by smiling “sociable” young people, is always excellent here, always time for a wee chat and a bit of local humour.

Soon we made our start.  Mine was the Langoustine Bisque (€7.00), good and warm and packed full of flavour. And with an unexpected highlight on the side: toasted Rouille croutons. No shortage of garlic on this delightful spread and such a brilliant match with that supple soup.

Meanwhile, CL was silently (there were a few oohs and aahs!) enjoying her Haddock Koftas with grilled pita bread and lemon aioli (€10.00). I managed to “steal” a bite or two and could see that she too was on a winner.

Turbot!

As she was on her main course: the Prawn scampi with lime, chilli and panko crumb, remoulade sauce (€14.00). A lovely light crumb with the prawns cooked to a tantalising tee. Absolutely top class - we shared these last two dishes.

Mine was Pan-roasted Turbot fillets, parmesan and herb crust, rocket pesto (€15.00). Haven't enjoyed this delicious fish as much since I had it in Nerua in Bilbao, a top 100 restaurant worldwide. The Electric effort was positively exquisite, all the elements, not least that delicious complementary crust.

If you don't see anything on the Specials - though I'm sure you will - you’ll have some terrific choices too on the regular menu including non fish dishes such as Hoisin Beef. You could start, for instance, with some oysters and there are a couple of Fish Platters for sharing. then there is Seared Sashimi Tuna, Pil Pil Prawns, and so on.

Scampi.

Some decent bottles of wine, and glasses of course, available too, including Tin Pot Hut’s Pinot Gris and Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir, a handy New Zealand double! And there is a bar downstairs, so you’ll be spoiled for choice if you want beer, bottle or draught; my favourite here would be the local Chieftain IPA by Franciscan Well. Lots of other drinks too including Kir Royales and Mimosas.

All in all, it's a great spot and Very Highly Recommended!

Electric http://www.electriccork.com

41 South Mall, Cork, Ireland

[T] +353 21 4222 990

[E] Book@ElectricCork.com

Amuse Bouche

The next day was Martha’s twenty-ninth birthday, and after she woke, somewhat the worse for wear, at one in the afternoon, Matthews gave her a huge basket of flowers and pulled together a lavish feast of caviar, pâté en croûte, Christmas pudding, and ham, to which Hemingway added bottles of Champagne and Chateau d'Yquem. She didn't feel very celebratory, however; she’d just heard word was out in the United States about her relationship with Hemingway, and she dreaded the consequences….

from Hotel Florida by Amanda Vaill (2014)

Que Syrah, Shiraz. Southern Style.

Que Syrah, Shiraz

Southern Style

Bilancia Syrah 2004 (Hawkes Bay, New Zealand), 13.5%, €25.18 (was 31.50) Karwig Wines.

Before we even get to the contents, there are two things to note here. The grape is called Syrah and the closure is screw-cap. Don't think I’ve ever twisted a cap off a wine as old. In France, the grape is called Syrah. Elsewhere this ever popular grape is known as Shiraz unless the winemaker, as here, is aiming for the more restrained French style.

A small amount of Viognier (c. 2%) has been used here. The term for this, according to Grapes and Wines, is co-fermentation and says it “gives not just perfume but some extra silkiness of texture”. Syrah itself is, of course, a great blender, most famously in the Rhone where it mixes so well with Grenache and Mourvèdre (shorthand: GSM).

This Bilancia (balance) has a purple colour, aromas of ripe fruit, a little pepper. There is a gorgeous elegant mouthfeel, flavours (mainly plum) and spice; lives up to its name with perfect balance and harmony, good finish too. Highly Recommended. 

The Leheny Gibson mentioned on the front label refers to two people, winemakers Lorraine Leheny and Warren Gibson who first released their wines in 1998.

Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz 2012 (Padthaway, Australia), 14.5%, €16.75 Karwig Wines

This juicy vibrant wine is Shiraz rather than Syrah. Purple is the colour and there in the aromas you'll find ripe red fruits and some spice too. Juicy and vibrant on the palate, fine tannins, oak well integrated, well balanced and easy drinking. Excellent on its own, great too, they suggest, “with food and friends”. Highly Recommended.

Jip Jip Rocks is one of three Bryson family vineyards in the area; the others are Morambro Creek and Mt Monster, who also produce Shiraz. By the way, Jip Jip is well known too for its sparkling shiraz. Quite a few Australian vineyards produce a sparkling shiraz.

David Bryson told me in Cork a few years back that this still Shiraz is their main seller. It is a 100% Shiraz, 100% Padthaway wine with “a lot of vineyard character..a bottle of serious fun…,approachable”.

The Jip Jip rocks have existed for 350 million years and the striking outcrop is sacred to Aboriginal beliefs.

Pielow’s Shiraz 2012, (Tulbagh, Western Cape, South Africa), 14.5%, €17.95 Karwig Wines

Colour is a deep purple, dark fruit aromas plus oak. Quite a lively palate of dark berry fruit flavours, and vanilla; tannins well rounded. No shortage of power here yet it is well balanced with a decent finish. Juicy steaks, barbecued meats and spare ribs are suggested as matches. This is very much a New World Shiraz and is Recommended!

Colin and Teresa Pielow, formerly chef proprietors of two Irish restaurants (including one in Cobh), came to to South Africa a few years back and settled in the beautiful Tulbagh valley in the Cape Winelands. The property where they established and planted their own vineyard has produced this Pielow's Shiraz which is still in their ownership. They have returned to Ireland and opened Pielows Restaurant in Cabinteely where, of course, you may enjoy this fruit-driven Shiraz!

Pielow’s wines are available from:

Pielow's Restaurant, 2 Main Street, Cabinteely, Dublin 18, Ireland

Tel: 01 284 0914 Email: pielows@eircom.net

Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, Co.Cork.

Tel: 021 437 4159 Email: info@karwigwines.ie

Mitchell & Son, Glasthule, 54 Glasthule Road, Glasthule Co. Dublin

Tel: 01 230 2301 Email: glasthule@mitchellandson.com

Avoca Food Market, (stocked by Mitchell & Son), Kilmacanogue. Co. Wicklow

Tel: 01 274 6900 Web: avoca.com

Taste of the Week. Old Millbank Salmon Paté

Taste of the Week

Old Millbank Salmon Paté

Geraldine Bass is a regular at the local farmers markets here in Cork and her Old Millbank Salmon Paté is our Taste of the Week. You’ll certainly see her stall in Mahon Point (Thursdays) and Douglas (Saturdays).

The paté - you can get a nice little pot of it for four euro - comes two ways. The original is in a very tasty creamy paste, ideal for spreading on canapes or, if in  a hurry, spooning! And now there is a variation. She adds little chunks of her salmon to it, giving an extra twist to the texture and the flavour (see photo above). Either way, it’s delicious.

Geraldine also sells her award winning smoked salmon to restaurants and delicatessens.

Old Mill Bank Smoke House, Willow Pond, Summer Park, Buttevant, Co. Cork.

It’s between Mallow and Buttevant, so sometimes you’ll see Mallow in the address.

Email:	bass3@indigo.ie
Phone:	+353 22 23299

And they called it Patty's Day but we changed it! Cheers.

And they called it Patty's Day

but we changed it!

The Bunny from Blarney Chocolate

The Bunny from Blarney Chocolate Pays A Visit

There was a ring at the door. The big white bunny from Blarney Chocolate was outside. And she was carrying a hamper of goodies from their new range. Needless to say, she got a big welcome!

This is her story:

A locally designed Easter range is bouncing into spring with hand crafted and moulded chocolate treats that are mind meltingly wonderful, courtesy of the professional chocolatiers at Blarney Chocolate Factory.  As always the Cork based chocolate company has the perfect chocolate treat for everyone including luxury eggs, a range of smaller eggs and chocolate figures, chocolate truffle boxes and the popular chocolate lollipops and bars. 

For those who are looking for delicious, fun and traditional nod to all things Easter then Blarney Chocolate Factory have a range of medium and large Eggs in Milk or Dark Chocolate which can be decorated and personalised, the only limits being your imagination! For something eggstra special then look no further than the stunning signature Easter product which features a beautiful milk chocolate character of a rabbit and duck in an Egg (€15.95).

A must for Easter egg hunts or perfect for sharing with friends Blarney Chocolate Factory have a number of options ideal for sharing including: six lovely milk chocolate eggs in a chocolate egg box (€12.95), 2 milk chocolate eggs with a bunny lollipop (€5.95), a milk chocolate chicken on a cracked open egg with small praline eggs in a yellow box (€12.95), milk chocolate chick sitting on a milk chocolate egg (€4.95) and last but not least the quirky ‘Croc’ egg in a box with chocolate buttons (€9.95)

The perfect choice for chocolate lovers with a more sophisticated palette are the un-egg-spected flavour range of artisan eggs which include; dark chocolate egg with mint sugar and mint fondant pralines (€12.95), a hazelnut praline egg (€12.95) and the super luxurious large truffle egg which features a half egg of milk or dark chocolate filled with a collection of our pralines, truffles and fondants (€22.95).

Blarney Chocolate Factory is proud of their gifted chocolatiers who lovingly hand crafted each and every piece of chocolate so that their skill and passion can be tasted in every joyful mouthful.

The full Blarney Chocolate Factory Easter range is available at their shop on the square in Blarney Village or online at 

www.blarneychocolatefactory.com/collections/easter

That big white bunny!

About Blarney Chocolate Factory:

Blarney Chocolate Factory opened for business on the first of June 2014. Their charming shop is located in the beautiful square in the centre of Blarney Village and only 100 yards from the entrance to Blarney Castle.  In addition to amazing chocolate products they sell great Coffee, Hot Chocolate and fine Italian Gelato which is also made in Cork.

Italian Trio at O’Brien’s. Bardolino and Soave by Guerrieri Rizzardi

Italian Trio at O’Brien’s

Bardolino and Soave by Guerrieri Rizzardi

On a recent weekend, my local Douglas O’Brien’s - indeed O’Brien’s nationwide - had an Italian tasting, highlighting the wines of Guerrieri Rizzardi from the Veneto. I came away with a few bottles, two Bardolino and one Soave. The Bardolino wine zone may be familiar to quite a few of you as it lies on the eastern shores of Lake Garda, popular with Irish holidaymakers.

Soave is also in the Veneto but further east. The drive for quantity over quality led “to the eventual detriment of the Soave brand” according to Wine-Searcher.com. Yet good producers - and Guerrieri Rizzardi is one of the best there, according to Grapes and Wines -  can make “a complex and satisfying” classico. My bottle comes from the original Classico. Watch out too for Soave Superiore.

Like Soave, the Bardolino viticultural area saw much expansion and again there was a drop in quality. Wines in original areas near Bardolino town are labelled Classico and Superiore as are the ones below. No lack of quality here though! The wines were on offer (offer price in brackets) when I called, but just for that weekend!

Costeggiola Soave Classico 2011, 13.5%, €15.45 (12.36), O’Brien’s

Only about twenty per cent of Soave now comes from the original Classico zone. Costeggiola enjoyed a very good year in 2011. And this is a blend of Garganega (70 per cent minimum) and Chardonnay (30% maximum). No oak has been used but it has been aged on lees.

The characteristics of Garganega are exotic spice, citrus fruit and nutty aromas and Chardonnay is used to enhance richness, body and complexity.

It boasts a lovely light gold colour. Not overly aromatic but pleasant peach and pear notes come through. Fruit and acidity were immediately noted, minerality in play too, and a persistent finish. Recommended.

There is a note on the bottle that this should not be served too chilled. Very important advice! Serve between 12-13 degrees to get the best from your Costeggiola!  With all that lively acidity it would be a pity not to drink this with food and they recommended pairing it with Italian starters, white meats, fresh or smoked seafood, shellfish, goats cheese or tempura prawns. Should be okay too with salads and vegetarian dishes.

Tacchetto Bardolino Classico 2014, 12.5%, €16.45 (13.16) O’Brien’s

This has a very light red colour and indeed is nice and light in many respects, including the fragrant fruity aromas. It is fresh and fruity too on the palate, a little spice too, good acidity and quite a long finish, a beautiful light, smooth easy-drinking wine, good either with or without food. Highly Recommended. And you can make that Very Highly Recommend if you like this easy-drinking fruity style!

There are three grapes variety in the blend - Corvina (80%), Rondinella (10) and Merlot (10) - grown on stony vineyards. Label recommends serving it at 14-16 degrees but a well informed source in Douglas told me he has seen it served lightly chilled.

Food pairings, suggested by the producer: Cajun; rabbit; steak tartar; salami and cold pork meat.

Munus Bardolino Classico Superiore 2013, 13%, €21.45 (14.90) O’Brien’s

This is made from the highest quality grapes (including some very old Corvina) from the best Bardolino vineyards and spends 12 months in seasoned oak. Indeed, Munus is the only red wine cuvée from the Bardolino classico wine area aged in oak barrels. The same three grapes are used: Corvino (70%), Merlot (20%) and Rondinella (10%).

Color is a little darker than the Tacchetto, not by much. Aromas are vibrant and fruity, and follow through to the palate. Flavours are more robust, “more muscle,” I was told in Douglas! Acidity is excellent, hints of sweet spice too, and a good finish too. All that acidity means it's meant for food. Bring on the lamb!  The producer says: “Superb with pork and poultry dishes and lighter game such as partridge and quail. Also porcini mushroom risotto.” Very Highly Recommended.

There are other Guerrieri Rizzardi wines at O'Brien's as well as this trio.