Friendly Festival at The Slí Eile Farm

Friendly Festival at The Slí Eile Farm
Harvest Festival in Churchtown

The Slí Eile Farm was the venue for a lively Harvest Festival on Sunday. The Churchtown event had something for everyone: lots of food stalls, advice (on organic growing, men’s sheds), a dog show, entertainment (bouncy castle, pony rides, penalty kicks, archery and more) for the kids, while the adults were entertained with some old fashioned farming, a thatching demo, and music.

No shortage of parking and just as well as there was a great turnabout on a lovely day in North Cork. Our first priority was something to eat and we found it quickly. A rustic restaurant had been set up in the environs of the barn and the smoke was rising from the grill. Soon we were sitting and enjoying a delicious organic burger from the farm itself.

Time then for an enjoyable stroll around the yard of Burton Park where most of the stalls were situated. The farm itself had a stall with vegetables, jams and apple juice and fund raising tickets were on sale as the music and the conversation flowed.

I had missed Bluebell Falls cheese at Killavullen last week and so was glad to get a tasting this time and came home with their lovely Honey, Garlic and Thyme Goats Cheese. The Golden Vale has been the traditional home of Irish cheese and isn't it about time we had an artisan cheesemaker from the area. Well done to all concerned. Be sure to check out their website above for their products and recipes.

Now we were in the kitchen gardens, where all kinds of healthy looking vegetables grew, both outdoors and under the polytunnel. Continued the walk past a collection of vintage vehicles and soon we were in the fields.

And here the beautiful big horses were hard at work. A pair of greys, harnessed to a reaper, were cutting the corn, stopping every now and then for a tasty munch! Behind, the workers were busy making sheaves of the corn. Saw one sheaf tied in the traditional way but most were being secured with a blue twine.

Nearby, another large horse was being guided up and down between the drills and his attached scuffler was uprooting the weeds. Perhaps the guide and driver were needed but that big dark horse showed neat footwork as he worked the narrow spaces without standing on the plants.

What a refreshing change of scenery for a Sunday afternoon! And what a refreshing place Slí Eile is. The aim of the Slí Eile approach to recovery through community living is to provide another way of supporting people to recover from their experience of mental distress. A great afternoon and a great cause. And, those of us, of a certain age, who remember innocent people consigned to the loneliness of dark corners, will surely agree. Check it all out here.

And there will be another festival in Churchtown soon. The local development association hosts the Churchtown Fine Food and Craft Beer Festival on the 8th to the 10th of August. Keep an eye on Facebook for further details.

Krug at Ballymaloe. Patience and perfection

Krug at Ballymaloe

Patience and perfection

Toast to the harvest! The Krug is served in its special Riedel glasses.

"Champagne is all about pleasure."

Nicole Brown got widespread agreement on her opening statement at Ballymaloe last Thursday evening. And that agreement was reinforced by the time the audience in the famous Cookery School had sampled the amazing Krug Grand Cuvée.

Nicole was in Ballymaloe, both as a visitor - she is on holiday in West Cork - and in an temporary extension of her role as the US Brand Ambassador for Krug Champagne. Ballymaloe’s Colm McCann was delighted with the visit and welcomed Nicole, who was accompanied by Adrien Combet of Moet Hennessy Ireland, and the rest of us to the first ever Krug tasting in Ireland!

Krug, perhaps the premier champagne house, was founded by Joseph Krug in 1843. With some previous experience of the trade and his own principles to guide him (detailed in a journal he started for his young son in 1848), he set about extracting pleasure from a difficult climate (200 days of rain per annum). The chalk soil though was and remains a huge factor in the champagne maker’s favour.

The boundaries of champagne have long been set (though there is a move on to extend them in the next year or so) and so the competition among the houses for the raw material, the grapes, can be intense. Very few houses have enough grapes of their own. Krug, with some contracts dating back to 1878, are loyal to their suppliers and it seems to work both ways.

Krug use 5000 small oak barrels (average age: 23 years) for the first fermentation. Repairs are constant but Eric Label, Chef de Caves, is determined not to use stainless steel at this stage.

The tasting committee - we are talking about the Grand Cuvée here - consists of six members charged with using their memories and tasting abilities, not to mention the legibility of their handwriting, to make the flagship wine as consistent as possible each and every time!

There is no magic formula here, just memory and taste, and taste again! Some 200 plus wines are tasted twice while the reserve still wines are tasted once or twice each year. No less than 5,000 thousand hand-written tasting notes are accumulated in Eric’s big black book and then consulted before the blend composition is finalised.

The final blend may consist of over 100 wines from ten or so different vintages (years)! The wine then matures in the cellars for at least six years. Memory, taste, and so much time! The patience of perfection.

Roast Guinea Fowl and those amazing Heritage tomatoes.

While champagne is the most regulated wine in the world, its workings are not always clear to the outsider. “Krug wants to be transparent,” said Nicole and pointed to the ID on each bottle. Download the APP and you’ll get the key info, including important dates, on the wine. Let’s check the Grand Cuvée in our hand. We see that no less than 142 still wines (some going back to 1990) were blended with the base 2006 wine and that it was aged for seven years on its lees.

The audience was now eager to taste and Colm and his crew obliged. Nicole: “The Grand Cuvée is unique, an incredible expression of champagne”. And so it is. The deep golden colour and the endless fountain of fine bubbles promise much as do the amazing aromas. And it is all delivered on the palate, full and yet fine, mature yet fresh. You won’t forget this one in a hurry.

The Krug Rose, first made commercially in the early 1980s, is crafted in much the same way as the Grand Cuvée, and includes Pinot Noir from La Cote Valnon “to make it pink. It is aged for five years and the reserve wines date back to 2000. It is amazing with cheese.” Krug offer five champagnes and all five are Prestige Cuvées.

Back in Ballymaloe House, at dinner, we were amazed at the versatility of the Grand Cuvée, matching everything from fish to fowl and not forgetting vegetarian. Ballyhoura Mushroom and Marjoram Bruschetta and Hot Buttered Ballycotton Lobsters featured in the starters while Poached Wild Blackwater Salmon, Roast free-range Guinea Fowl and Braised Ballymaloe Pork were among the mains listed.

Sunset finds Nicole and Adrien doing some field-work.
The gigantic tin whistle is the newest
addition to the FORM sculpture trail, showing all
summer long at Ballymaloe.

Cheeses included St Gall, Triskel Goats and Cashel Blue and here the Rosé was put through its paces. No problem!

It was a delicious well paced meal and one of the highlights was the Shanagarry Heritage Tomato and Basil Salad. Colm McCann had been talking this up all evening and, boy, was he right. This simple salad illustrates the essence of the Ballymaloe farm and kitchen. Here they start with simple and end with simply superb!

We dined with windows and doors open on this lovely summer’s evening. Walked out then to the front, the canopy of farmland darkness broken by a myriad of sparkling stars. The Milky Way, I saw. And then I thought. What a prosaic name. All that sparkle and the best they can come up with is milky! Why not The Champagne Way? Pourquoi pas?

Amuse Bouche

One day, a newspaper had published a highly flattering review…. and everything changed. Letizia often wondered when it was that the man had come in, just one more anonymous diner, and taken his seat at the red-and-white checked table, sampling the ‘red onion-tomato sauce’ and the fantastic ragu meat loaf, a sensory delight’, as he had described his meal. Actually, she was glad she hadn’t known at the time; she was proud of the fact that the reviewer hadn’t been given any special treatment.

from The Crocodile by Maurizio de Giovanni.

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week

Bee Sensations, namely Tom and Croéin Ruttle, are well known for their innovative range of jams and, of course, for their Amarena Cherries in Potcheen. All these jams and marmalades are based on their own Irish Honey which is used as a substitute for sugar. 

Perhaps, their most basic product of all is their Raw Honey, from their own hives. Resplendent in the newly designed Bee Sensations packaging, the raw honey is a beautiful product with lots of uses - try using it in your porridge!  

I know many of you are more familiar with clear honey but please don't leave this behind because it is cloudy. Just take a smidgen on your tongue and soon you’ll know this is a natural gem and why it is Taste of the Week.

“Our bees are Irish Bees and we are involved with the preservation of Irish Bees through FIBKA and also NIHBS. As long standing members we are again true to nature by making sure while providing Irish Honey that our bees are well maintained...” 

Sounds good. Tastes even better! You'll find Irish Bee Sensations on Twitter at https://twitter.com/Bsensationsnews where they've just announced that they are have qualified for "the finals of Q awards".

Blas na hEireann update on Bee Sensations July 2015 here

Sipping, almost slipping, in Saint Emilion

Sipping, almost slipping, in Saint Emilion

The hand of man and mammon can seem particularly powerful here. This quote from the World Atlas of Wine refers to Saint Emilion and indeed rings true as you walk around the narrow streets of this much visited historic town, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999.

The little town is a busy commercial spot. Here, in the blink of an eye, a restaurant can fill up with a bus load of tourists and the shiny wine shops invite you in to talk about en primeur. It is not easy to find parking here. You’ll have to queue for the toilet, though I followed the example of the local males and used the open air pissoir (it did have metal wings at the sides to provide decent cover). And you won't get too far without someone offering you a little taste of their famous macaroons.

But even Atlas of Wine authors, Michael Johnson and Jancis Robinson, acknowledge it is not all about mammon. “...the comfort of St-Emilion to the ordinary wine-lover is the number of .. chateaux of moderate fame and consistently high standards which can provide relatively early maturing, utterly enjoyable, reasonably affordable wine”.

Here are three, from that category, that I sipped. And the slipping? Well there was a close call or two on one of the steepish streets. Here the surface consists of big stones, but so well worn and shiny - the Romans were here - that you can find yourself slipping even in dry conditions. So, careful as you reach out for that macaroon sample!

#1 - Chateau Haut Traquart, La Grace Dieu Cuvee Passion, St-Emilion Grand Cru 2010, 13.5%, €28.55

#2 - Chateau Haut Rocher, St-Emilion Grand Cru 2009, 14.5%, €18.35.

#3 - Chateau La Grace Dieu, St-Emilion Grand Cru 2009, 14%, €17.85.

As you probably know, the plump Merlot is the most widely planted variety here and, more often or not, its main partner in the blend is Cabernet Franc (known locally, I’m told, as Bouchet). The pattern is followed in these three: #1 90% M, 10% CF; #2 65% M, 20% CF, 15% Cab Sauv; #3 80% M, 20% CF.

All three have Grand Cru on the label but this doesn't mean a great deal, "rather akin to the difference between basic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superieur" according to the Wine Doctor Chris Kissack, a regular commentator on the area. 

Nevertheless, these are three really good wines with #1 having something more. It is warm and smooth, well balanced, good fruit and some pepper notes, barely noticeable tannins and an excellent finish.

#2 also has an excellent “final”, as Sean Kelly might say. Another well balanced wine, a harmonious blend, red and black fruits and again some spice.

#3 is quite lush, those same fruits evident, again some spice, tannins yes but just about in play, and again an excellent finish.

Bought all three at the Maison du Vin in Saint-Emilion itself last month and the prices quoted are those that I paid on the day. If you’d like to try wines from this area - you may not get these three exactly - why not check with the likes of Mitchell & Sons, Terroirs, Honest2Goodness, Wines Direct, Tindal, Karwig, Bubble Brothers, Curious Wines and Le Caveau. For short account of my trip to Saint-Emilion, click here.

Delicious Hat Trick by Yumm!

Delicious Hat Trick by Yumm!

Is this Walter Ryan-Purcell, the face of the Fresh from West Cork stall in the English Market, something of a magician? Every time he pulls something out of his bag, a bit of food magic appears.

It wasn't just one this weekend. Nor two. No. But three of the best from YUMM! in Ballydehob. Let me take you through them, all suitable for vegetarians and all gluten free.

First up was the Skibbereen Spinach Pie, a rich, creamy and filling pie made with spinach, cream cheese, eggs, opinion, potatoes and seasoning. First bite and I knew I was on to a winner.

Completed the double with the Inchigeelagh Frittata, another gem. Again I’ll use their own words, as they ring true: A delicate Frittata made with fresh eggs, summer vegetables, mild goat’s cheese and new potatoes. Loved the veg in this one.

And the hat trick is completed with another outstanding dish called Parmigiano Kilmichael. Don't you love the names. You’ll love this too: A delicious dish made with tomato, aubergine, onion, garlic, cheese, olive oil and seasoning. A superb substitute for Ratatouille.

The dishes may be used as a substantial lunch for one, maybe for two if you add a salad. All may be used as part of a main dish with chicken, fish or salad. Try a pack or two and use your imagination!

The vegetables used here are fresh, grown locally and chemical free. Store yours in the fridge. They may be eaten cold and can be reheated. Packaging, by the way, may be composted. All good and all available from Walter in the English Market. YUMM! may be reached at kilmichaelyumm@gmail.com

Electric Fish

Electric Fish

Scallop & Cod Burger

If you go to the Fish Bar at Electric, you must try their burger. A fish burger? Yes, why not? And this one is something special. I know I’ve mentioned it before but the Scallop and Cod Burger, served with cucumber pickled and smoked paprika aioli, is irresistible. And that tender brioche burger, made in-house, is a perfect wrap for the quality fish within!

It was one of our mains in the South Mall venue at the weekend. The other, from the specials board, was Chermoula Marinated Cod with a honey and lemon yoghurt. Superb flavours and textures and, with a bowl of Rosemary and Olive Oil Patatas Bravas, a substantial course indeed, almost matching the burger.

Both were washed down with a beer. They have very good choices here, both on draught and in bottle. I had a pint of draught Howling Gale Ale, the original from Eight Degrees and an original that has stood the test of time.

Chermoula Cod

I was also tempted by the Longueville Cider and the Kinsale Pale Ale, both from the bottle list. Next time! Some nice wines there too including Club Privado Tempranillo and Fosso Corno Montepulciano by the glass and, on the white side, Martin Codax Albarino and Tinpot Hut Pinot Gris.

The dessert list at present includes a couple of excellent cheese options. It is strong too on chocolate and our choice was the novel Chocolate and Chilli Sugar Strawberries. Sweet ‘n spicy!

We had started off with some Grilled Pacific oysters, a few Rockefeller style (with breadcrumbs and parsley) and few Kilpatrick (Worcester sauce, bacon and spring onion). The Kilpatrick were the tastier. They also serve these Pacific “natural” and indeed if you aren't used to oysters, this is a good way to start as the variety is very very small - easy to swallow!

Chocolate and Chilli Sugar Strawberries

Lots of other starters available if you’re not up to the oysters, including the FishBar tasting plate. If someone in the party isn't into fish, then don't worry as they do cater for the “landlubbers” as well.

This is a lovely informal place (no reservations required, nor taken) and the staff keep it informal, well able to crack a joke but well able too to make sure your dishes arrive on time and with all you need. Highly recommended.

Oysters, Kilpatrick style.

Superb Kale, and so much more, at Killavullen Market

Superb Kale at Killavullen Market

"Throw in a few beans, please!"

Delighted I made it to the Killavullen Farmers Market last Saturday. Brought the bags, as usual - no point in going to a market unless you bring bags - and filled them up.

A big welcome and lots of good things to eat and drink here. Rory and his Kildinan Farm organic stall caught the eye and not just because of his colourful vegetables (including yellow courgettes and black and yellow beans) but also because of his selection of great looking kale.

He had three types for sale but we eventually went for the Nero di Tuscano. Glad we did. It is terrific. Big dark leaves, beautiful texture and oh so very tasty.

We used the Kale and the beans (the black goes green, the yellow white, when cooked!) with a beautiful piece of hake from Yawl Bay Seafoods (enhanced with some of that amazing IASC seafood butter, of course!), a lovely dish.

By coincidence, I came across this recipe on Twitter this morning: Maple Drizzled Strawberry Kale Salad. What do you think? If you're doing it, why not use the Highbank Orchard Syrup.

The Killavullen market is held about twice each month in the Nano Nagle Centre  on the Mallow-Fermoy Road and it is appropriate that organic produce features highly. The centre’s mission now “is to promote a vision of eco spirituality” and it runs a 32 acre organic farm here. Directions to the centre and the market here.

Indeed, the Nano Nagle centre has its own stall in the market and here we got some very flavoursome organic tomatoes. All of the stalls are indoor, sheltered under a large polytunnel so the market is weather-proofed. Great idea.

Much to buy here. We got a few bars of the gorgeous Clonakilty Chocolate (including my Himalayan Salt favourite!) and  a lovely Spelt and Honey loaf from a well stocked bakery stall. And of course who could pass the Fermoy Natural Cheese stall? Not me. Enjoyed a lovely chat with Gudrun Shinnick as I sampled the cheese and bought some of her famous Cais Dubh and also some of the same cheese embedded with fenugreek seeds. She also has milk and kefir on sale here.

Fermoy Natural Cheese

A quote from the market site just to give you a better idea of what is available: The products available are numerous including local fresh organic vegetables and eggs, imported fruit and vegetables from small producers to complement the local, potatoes and preserves, award winning cheeses, apples and apple juice, bread and baking, flowers and plants, knits and crochet, jewellery and candles, natural soaps and organic essential oils, environmentally friendly cleaning products, personalised poetry and greeting cards, charity bookstall, recycled paper products and fair trade products available at tea and coffee stall. The market received a Cork Environmental Award in 2009.

Kathy and her skin care stall

Last Saturday was also a special Arts and Food Celebration so there was even more to enjoy, including a pottery-making stand where you, or at least the kids, could get hands-on experience.

We came across a vibrant looking herb stall on the way out and saw a pot of basil with smaller leaves than usual. If I remember rightly, it is a Greek basil. Correct name or not, it is now standing on the kitchen windowsill.

Peace on the Blackwater. The river flows by the Nano Nagle Centre

You can also have a cup of tea or coffee and some home baking, maybe before or after the market or perhaps after taking one of several walks through the centre. We did the Cosmic Walk and that took us past a very large and impressive sundial.

Then we strolled through the animal enclosures, a couple of donkeys grazing, two pigs poking in the dust with their snouts and grunting happily and a community of hens clucking. Down  a few steps then to a field where a curious calf stared back and a few minutes later we were on the peaceful banks of the lovely Blackwater. After the walk, it was back to the car and a quiet cross country drive through the drizzly hills as we returned to the city.

Sundial.

Fancy a trip to Chile?

Fancy a trip to Chile?
Cono Sur Competition

Fancy an all expenses paid trip to Chile? Here’s your chance. Wine company Cono Sur is offering just such a trip to the winners of a Recipe Competition.

They are in search of a savory new main dish to pair either with their Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc or Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, and calling all bloggers from Ireland to participate. “If your recipe is selected, we'll be sending you and a friend to Paris, France, to compete in the Grand Final with finalists from England, Finland and Sweden. The winner´s grand prize: A trip for two to Chile to visit Cono Sur Vineyards & Winery and discover its beautiful home country!”

Bloggers may well be the primary target but the competition is open to anyone. If you don't win the trip to Chile that Grand Final in Paris would be quite a consolation. Do get into the kitchen and get that culinary brain working overtime. Closing date is 11th August.

I have been in touch with the company and have received the tasting notes for each of the two wines and they are included below for help and inspiration.

Would love to head off to Chile myself but creating a new main course may be beyond me. Still, last weekend, I gave it a go and came up with my first effort, more a starter than a main course but tasty nonetheless.

Ingredients

Four scallops.

Four streaky rashers (try Truly Irish or Woodside Farm).

Seafood Butter by IASC*.

plus One bottle of Cono Sur Single Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Valle de Casablanca, 12%, €16.95, Bradley’s Off Licence, Cork.


The IASC seafood butter is an amazing product and may be used with all kinds of fish dishes. One top London chef uses it with escargots! Read all about it here.

Method

Gently fry the rashers until lightly coloured; make sure they are still soft and supple.

Take up rashers and wrap around the scallops, securing with cocktail sticks.

Brush exposed ends of the scallops with melted Seafood Butter.

Pop into the oven (top shelf) for 10-15 minutes (depending on size of scallops).

Serve with green salad and a big crisp refreshing glass of wine!

Serves two.

The Wines

Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

Selected for its ideal Casablanca Valley location, the Loma Roja (Red Hill) Block is a part of the El Centinela Estate, which is known for its red clay soil characterized by high water retention, giving this Sauvignon Blanc a greater aromatic expression. Just 7 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean, it is one of the coldest regions in Chilean viticulture, where morning fog covers the vines each day and slows down the ripening process so that each grape reaches its full potential.

Food Pairing
A great aperitif or an excellent option to accompany light first courses, ideally green salads or seafood. It is also a perfect compliment to vegetarian dishes and fresh pastas with Mediterranean sauces. Cheese-wise, it prefers ripe Cheddar, Gruyere and soft cheeses.

Tasting Note

This Sauvignon Blanc has a bright yellow coloring with hints of green. In the nose are aromas of grapefruit, white flowers with citric and mineral hints. The palate is slightly salty with great acidity and a long finish. This fresh and elegant wine pairs beautifully with seafood, chicken, cheeses and vegetables.

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Cono Sur Single Vineyard Pinot Noir
Selected for its privileged coastal location, the Viento Mar (Ocean Wind) Block is located at the highest point of the Campo Lindo Estate in the San Antonio Valley. Direct maritime winds significantly cool the area and provoke one of the slowest ripening processes within this variety. In addition, red clay soils, intense sunlight and no springtime rains create a brilliantly colored grape of intense aromatic expression and impressive concentration.

Food Pairing
Due to its versatility, this Pinot Noir is a natural choice for some of the latest culinary trends. It makes any white meat look good, as well as soups, stews and flavorful fish dishes. It’s also great to serve with dishes such as roast pork with onions and apples, fillet steak with sautéed vegetables, grilled salmon with curry and ginger, and leek tart. As far as cheeses are concerned, Gouda and goat cheese are a great choice.

Tasting Note

This Pinot Noir has a bright ruby red colouring with purple tints. Ripe raspberries, black cherries and strawberries in the nose mesh delightfully with hints of coffee and cacao. The palate is fruity and delicate with soft tannins and a great balance. Serve with red meats, poultry game and aged cheese.

>> This won Silver in the 2013 Decanter World Wine Awards and Bronze in the 2014 Awards.