Chart House is Tops

Chart House is Tops

The Chart House in Dingle was the destination on Friday night. It had been a fabulous day in the beautiful peninsula and the meal here rounded it off superbly. We have eaten in some really excellent restaurants this year, from Donegal to Limerick, from Cork to the Loire, and I’m happy to say that The Chart House is one of the very best.

It is a lovely small restaurant where you get a terrific welcome from Jim McCarthy and his friendly knowledgeable staff. Some walls have exposed stone and some are hung with quality artwork, including at least one large scale piece by local artist Liam O’Neill.

Much of the produce used is sourced locally and you can see that marked on the menu. And if it is not from Dingle or its environs, it won't have travelled too far. There is something refreshingly light about the meals here; you leave the table feeling pleasantly full but not stuffed and you’ll have enjoyed some really flavoursome dishes.

My meal started with the Ham Hock Spring Roll with sun-dried tomato and poppy seed orzo, remoulade mayonnaise. Had been doing a lot of tasting on the previous day for Blas na hEireann but this alluring plateful fully revived the taste buds.

CL was also delighted with her Chart House Salad of maple dressed leaves layered with air dried ham, cantaloupe melon, toasted hazelnuts, spring onion, cherry tomatoes and grated parmesan. A delectable combination of textures and flavours.

I’m a big fan of Spanish white wines and, was delighted to see a blend of Verdejo and Viura on the list. The Rueda Esparanza was crisp and refreshing, with delicate floral aromas, and really fruity. Absolutely delicious!

Back to the eating now and the main course. The Pan-seared Hake was CL’s choice and that was served with a chorizo and chickpea stew, asparagus and rosemary butter. Another engaging combination of textures and flavours.

I went for the Tenderloin of Pork with sautéed summer cabbage, dauphinoise potato, apple purée and thyme juice. The pork was delicious and tender. Jim told me it had come from a new supplier in Kilgarvan and he was delighted with this find. So was I!

I have become a little wary of desserts recently, mainly because you get much the same offerings in most restaurants. But not here. Mine was Poached Pear with warm gingerbread, vanilla ice-cream and butterscotch sauce. CL picked the Warm Rhubarb Crumble with Blackberry Ice-cream and a little jug of sauce Anglaise. They make their own ice-cream and are rightly proud of it.

We certainly enjoyed the desserts and the meal overall and so took note when Jim told us to be sure and call on the following day as he had some good things for the Dingle Food Festival Taste Trail. We sure did and he sure had. And the word had gone around the town as the queue was long but a taste of that Blackberry ice-cream while we waited was a lovely wee bonus.

Well worth a visit and very highly recommended. For post on the Dingle Food Fest and the Blas Awards, please click here.

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week

Summer may be over
but that's no reason to
leave this cider gem on the shelf.
Well worth a try.

Ferry Good Wines

Ferry Good Wines

Century after century. The work goes on in Pouilly sur Loire. 

On the way back from a recent trip to the Loire, I continued to buy wine. No, not in those harbourside warehouses. But in La Boutique on board the Pont Aven, the Brittany Ferries ship that regularly sails between Cork and Roscoff. Quite a good list of wines on board, with all the major French areas covered.

And what did I buy? More wines from the Loire, of course. Didn't get over as far as Sancerre so had a shortfall there. By the way, got quite a share of wine maps and routes while in the Loire and Sancerre does not appear on them at all as they just don't go that far east.

Michel Redde La Moynerie, Pouilly-Fume 2010, 13%, €17.20

In 1630, a man called Francois Redde was a winemaker in Pouilly sur Loire. Three hundred years later, Michel Redde was born and went on to continue the tradition and now his three sons are at the helm. Their ongoing philosophy: bring out in the most natural way the best expression of of the grape variety and terroir.

They sure know what they are doing. Great fruit flavours here with a terrific acidity. Very impressive and Very Highly Recommended. Serve with fish and white meats.

Domaine Christian Salmon, Sancerre 2012, 13%, €12.66.

This Sauvignon Blanc from the home of the grape, is fruity and dry and a terrific example of the area’s expertise. From recent practice, I can say it is a wonderful companion for fish and seafood. They also recommend it with Chavignol, the goat cheese of the area, so presumably it will go well also with the likes of Ardsallagh or St Tola.

Domaine Dutertre, Clos du Pavillon, Touraine Amboise 2011, 13%, €7.73.

Made by an “independent winemaker”, this is a local award winner and is made from the Chenin Blanc grape. It is lovely and fruity, with sharpish acidity. Well balanced and with a long finish. A bit more info than usual on the back label, including the grape variety and also that it may age well (perhaps!).

* You may well find it difficult to track down these exact wines in Ireland. Still, quite a few wine shops stock Loire wines and you could well get lucky. If not, you can always treat yourself to a trip to Roscoff. Just make sure it is on Brittany Ferries!

Chef Bryan up for Greene's Challenge

Chef Bryan up for Greene's Challenge

Wine and Waterfall

West Cork chef Bryan McCarthy is back in Cork and at the helm in Greene’s in McCurtain Street. And he is looking forward to the new challenge. You can expect to see foraged items on the menu but his aim is for “simple food from the best of ingredients, cooked in a contemporary Irish style”.

Bryan is something of a forager himself but he will rely also on Ballyhoura Mushrooms and on Michelle Walshe for sea foraging. Greene’s have long used top local suppliers such as Ummera Smokery and Ardsallagh Goat Cheese and they continue to feature on the menu. The newly installed head chef has added Jack McCarthy (pork, bacon, including the famous black pudding, of course) and is looking forward to using even more of the fantastic vegetables from Waterfall Farm.

Jack Mac certainly stood out in my starter during last weekend's visit. Here the Black Pudding and Pork Belly featured with scallops, all served with apple and cider in a flavoursome combination.

Our other starter was also top drawer, featuring the Ummera Smoked Salmon served three ways, with Lemon, Beetroot, Crème Fraiche, Cucumber and Organic Leaves enhancing the superb West Cork product.

Bryan McCarthy is almost synonymous with the slow cooked Feather Blade of Hereford Beef in these parts and, served with Onion, Shiitake Mushroom and Mashed Potato, this tender tasty treat was impossible to resist and was as good as ever.

Pork Belly, Scallop and Black Pudding.

A superb dish also was the Duo of Lamb, with Beluga Lentils, Chorizo, Ballyhoura Oyster Mushroom and Ardsallagh Goat Cheese. By the way, in case you are getting worried, the menu still features a selection of fine fish dishes (after all, Bryan is from Leap). Poultry too, including Skeaghanore Duck, and Pigeon was introduced last Sunday!

No shortage of choice here. And they have a great Early Bird deal going, €27.00 for four courses up to 7.00pm at the weekend and all night earlier in the week. Service here is friendly and quite informed about the food. Helpful also. Just a small example. When we ordered herbal tea, they brought a whole box over to the table so that we could choose at our leisure.

We got a nice table by the floodlit waterfall and indeed there were two groups that got even closer, choosing to dine outside as the night was so mild. Almost forgot to tell you about the Amuse Bouche, well detailed by our helpful server. It was a Spinach Mousse with Smoked Duck. A good start to an excellent meal.

A Knight for a Hour on A Day in Paradise.

A Knight for a Hour on A Day in Paradise.

“Sir Billy Leon”, the receptionist repeated as he walked down the lobby at Hennessy’s Distillery Offices in Cognac. I haven't often been called Mister. So, Sir was certainly a step up.

The young man, in his three piece suit, was new to the job I reckon. I had put my name down around noon for the 2.30 tour. After lunch I had returned and indicated to him that he had my name in the book and thought he had ticked it off.

So I was quite surprised by the call as the impressed tourists looked around to see who the sir might be. I might have enjoyed the moment more but I reckon the shorts and tee didn't quite fit the "Sir" image.

In any case, it was all sorted easily enough and soon we crossed the Charente River in  a company boat to start the tour. Quite an interesting one as it turned out with a very polished guide indeed. Highlight was perhaps the visit to Paradise, the place where they keep the older cognacs. The photo shows some from the late 19th and early 20th century.

Was reminded by the incident when Colm McCan got in touch to say that Hennessey’s Marc Boissonnet will be in Ballymaloe on the 10th as part of the WineGeese Series. Should be a brilliant evening. Details below..

Sir's shot at Paradise!

Hennessy Cognac event, at Ballymaloe, Thursday 10th October 2013, 7pm, €18

We are looking forward to welcoming Marc Boissonnet from Hennessy Cognac, to lead us on a tutored tasting of a range of the finest Hennessy Cognac, which will also be paired with some matching food tastings. Hennessy Cognac also has strong connections with County Cork, as the Hennessy’s originally came from North Cork.

This event takes place here in Ballymaloe, in the Grain Store, on Thursday 10^th October, 7pm €18 Please also see http://www.ballymaloe.ie/things-to-do/wine-events

We are also planning to arrange transport to/from Cork city to Ballymaloe, should this be of interest – hop on the Hennessy Bus to Ballymaloe! Further details to follow, or please let me know if this is of particular interest colm@ballymaloe.ie

Ballymaloe boutique wine shop at Brown Thomas Cork

We have a selection of wines from the wine list and wine cellar here at Ballymaloe, available in the ‘Ballymaloe wine shop at Brown Thomas Cork', which is open every day. This Friday, 4^th October, from 12.30 – 2.30pm, we are delighted to be welcoming Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau for a tasting of organic, biodynamic and natural wines – please feel very welcome to pop in , informal tasting, taste the wines, and have a chat.

Literary Festival of Food and Wine, 2014!

 

A little bit early to be writing about this, but just as a date for your diary!  16^th – 18^th May 2014. We look forward to welcoming wine writers, wine people and winemakers for a variety of events over the weekend of ther Literary Festival - some of the visiting winemakers confirmed to date include Lilian Barton, of Château Leoville Barton, and Château Langoa Barton, St-Julien, Bordeaux; Aline Baly, of Château Coutet Barsac, Bordeaux, and Telmo Rodriguez, Spain, to name some of the winemakers confirmed so far.

Amuse Bouche

They decided stocking the cupboards would be a great wedding present, as Uncle Jim and Aunt Norma would surely appreciate this. These guys were practical jokers and took all the labels off every item on the shelf. A lot of cans look alike...especially when they are undressed. Aunt Norma asked me to have lunch with her ..... and it was like a treasure hunt, shaking this can and that can until we found one that sounded right. We were going to have tuna salad sandwiches that day, but the can of tuna turned out to be water-chesnuts, and the peas turned out to be fruit cocktail! So when I say that lunch was different it really was, but Aunt Norma kept a stiff upper lip and laughed about it.

from Marilyn Munroe by Michelle Morgan

Lunch, local and fit for a king. And guests. At The Farmgate.

Lunch, local and fit for a king. And guests. 

At The Farmgate in Cork's English Market.

Corned Beef (from the market downstairs) and cabbage.

Sparkling Elderflower cordial

Old Millbank smoked salmon

Pork and hazelnut terrine

Lemon Sole (from the market)

Chapel Steps still at the top of the posts

Chapel Steps still at the top

Just been checking some of my Google stats and amazed to see that last November's post on Bandon restaurant, The Chapel Steps, is still topping the poll with almost five and half thousand hits.

The Top Five Posts

1   The Chapel Steps
2    Toonsbridge Dairy Shop
3    Rico's
4    Sharkey meets Ike. Ex US President in Cobh
5    Glounthaune Days
  

Paul Flynn Cookery Demo for Marymount

Just heard from Marymount Hospice:

"Paul Flynn from the Tannery in Dungarvan and one of Ireland's foremost chefs, will be doing a cookery Demo for us on the 10th of October at the Oriel House Hotel in Ballincollig. There will also be a food fare with over 14 stalls confirmed to date. The event is to raise vital funds to support the work done by the Hospice. We are desperate to get a push on tickets sales, which are €20 each. 

The Food Fare opens at 7pm and the Cookery Demo with Paul will start at 8pm."

Tickets available from Marymount Hospice, Curraheen, Bishoptown, or their shop on 87 Oliver Plunkett Street, They may be purchased at the Oriel House Hotel.

Two Kilkenny Restaurants feature in Michelin Star Winners

Two Kilkenny Restaurants feature in Michelin Star Winners
Two Kilkenny restaurants - Campagne in Kilkenny City and the Lady Helen at the Mount Juliet Hotel in Thomastown - have been awarded Michelin stars in the Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2014.

Campagne is a contemporary restaurant located at Gashouse Lane in the new heart of Kilkenny. Open since 2008, it is run by Garrett Byrne and Brid Hannon and serves modern French food using the very best of local and Irish produce.

Situated on the rolling Mount Juliet demesne, the Lady Helen Restaurant enjoys panoramic views over the estate and River Nore and serves a variety of international dishes, prepared using local produce and fresh herbs, picked daily from the estate's own garden.

These two new additions to this year’s guide bring to nine the total number of Michelin star restaurants in Ireland. Others are The House Restaurant at the Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co. Waterford; Aniar Restaurant at Lower Dominic Street, Galway; Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Thornton’s at the Fitzwilliam Hotel, Chapter One, L’Ecrivain, all in Dublin City and Bon Appétit in Malahide.

A Michelin Bib Gourmand has been awarded to La Brasserie in Malahide, part of the renowned Bon Appetit eatery which itself is a Michelin starred restaurant.
 
The Bib Gourmand award recognises restaurants offering good food at affordable prices – up to EUR40 for three courses.
 
La Brasserie is described as a chic but informal bistro located at lower ground floor level, ideal for that quick bite after work, a weekend get-together with friends, or a relaxed Sunday lunch that offers the ultimate in comfort food.
 
According to Michelin Guide editor Rebecca Burr, establishments awarded a Bib Gourmand are hugely popular with readers in these difficult financial times, proving that providing good value for money doesn’t mean compromising standards. 
 
La Brasserie’s inclusion in the 2014 Michelin Guide brings to eleven the total number of Bib Gourmand restaurants in Ireland. 
 
The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2014 will be available in bookshops from Friday 4th October priced at €16.99.
 

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week

Torrontes is the white grape of Argentina
and this Finca La Linda is a terrific example
by the Luigi Bosca company.
Amazingly, the grapes are grown at 1700 metres.
Available from O'Donovan Off Licences

Amuse Bouche

He’d said: “If you’re looking for a room, go next door, pick whichever you fancy, first floor. The key will be in the lock.”

I had chosen the one with the view. A handwritten notice in reception on a wooden table, where a bowl with apples and another with sweets had been placed, said: “Plees, wen to chick-out, leef euros uder doore. Bon voyage.” I thought, this is the place for me. 

From The Olive Route by Carol Drinkwater.

A Look Back at Cahir Cider Celebration

A Look Back at Cahir Cider Celebration

I have to say that I was surprised and delighted with my trip to the Apple Farm in Cahir last weekend to visit the Slow Food Cider Festival. The big surprise was the sheer variety of styles and flavours of the ciders in the tasting tent. Just incredible, everything from dry to sweet and beyond (including that organic Traditional Medieval Honeyed Cider by Highbank Orchards).

I reckon they were all winners but on the day the judges decided on one and they awarded Best in Show to the, by now, well known and very well made Longueville House Cider, a 100% natural medium dry from their own orchards in Cork’s Blackwater Valley. Lots of people think you have to have ice in your cider but producer William O'Callaghan disagrees: “It is best drunk well chilled with no ice and is an ideal accompaniment to fish and meat”.

William, like many of the producers in Cahir, hasn't stopped with just one product. He was also showing his Apple Brandy (Calvados styled). And a very nice one too. This is really rich and mature and, in my opinion, not as fiery as some of its more famous counterparts from Normandy. He also makes liqueurs, must get my hands on some of those!

Longueville House is a busy spot and they have a few interesting events coming up:

• 12th Annual Mushroom Hunt, Sunday 06th & 20th October 2013
• Harvest Lunch & Cider Making Tour, Sunday 27th October 2013;
• Girls Night Out in Style, Pre Christmas Shopping , 21st November 2013;
• and don’t forget the New Year’s Eve Party!

Lisburn’s Tempted? were displaying their new snake logo and “4 tempting flavours”, including the lovely Strawberry that won Gold at the 2012 Irish Food Awards. But, this time, it was their dry cider that was voted Best in Show in that category. Reckon they'll be keeping the Snake. And maybe that Question Mark. Must admit I concentrated on the dry when I visited the MacIvor’s stand but it was their sweet that won the Best in Show in that category.

Great to meet up with Angus Craigie and Simon Tyrrell and taste their excellent cider, the Ballyhook Flier. Orpens and Keeved Cider’s Cockagee (not on general release yet) were other very enjoyable drops.

And then there was one with a difference from Kilmegan, their Wild Elderflower Infused Cider. Really gorgeous and worth a try if you come across it.

Had a terrific chat at the Highbank Orchard stand. Knew some of the products, including their limited edition Proper Cider and the multi-purpose Highbank Syrup. But the Medieval Cider was new to me as was their sweet cider. They are busy busy at Highbank Farm this month and have a day of family fun scheduled for the 29th. Click here for details.

The main focus was rightly on the cider producers but there were a few other stalls as well and, of course, the famed Apple Farm Shop was open. Great to meet up again with Sarah Grubb, husband and children at the Cashel Blue stand.

Amazing professionalism and a genuine courtesy to all as the couple managed to keep three young kids and a stream of interested callers happy. And we left here happy too with a small wedge of their Shepherd’s Store, a hard sheep cheese (you can't store the milk!) made during a good summer. It is a gorgeous cheese, with the trademark creaminess, and I'd advise you to get a wedge for yourself if you get the chance.

Did hear one or two complaints about the five euro (per car) parking charge, mainly because it wasn’t flagged in advance. Then again, there was a nice bonus (which I also hadn't known about). As you paid your seven euro entry fee to the Cider Tasting tent, a large bottle of a Con Traas cider special, called the Crow Black Chicken, a really nice dry cider, was presented to each punter.l