Koko Chocolate Kinsale

Koko Chocolate Kinsale
Frank's Answer to Recession

So there you are, after the recession and wiped out. Not the time for a knee jerk reaction. Count to ten, maybe. Well Frank Keane’s count to ten took him eight months and his decision took him from shock to choc!

For twenty one years before the recession left him high (low, maybe) and dry, Frank had dealt in collectable ceramics in Kinsale, in the same premises where he now makes Koko chocolates. Things were good but, like many another, he got ambushed when the Tiger’s roar died, going backwards before the final “wipe-out”.

What would he do now? What could he do. He looked to the kitchen. Under his mother’s influence he had always loved the kitchen. But, at fifty, he didn't want to start at the bottom with someone half his age telling him what to do.

Giant chilli caramel

Chocolate was the answer that came to him. And so, four years ago, he took a short two day course with Benoit Lorge in Kenmare and has been learning ever since, and enjoying life, even if the commitment is huge - seven days a week.

Citing Mast Brothers of Brooklyn and London as an inspiration, he “learns new stuff every day”. It helps that “chocolate is a very forgiving substance. If something doesn't turn out well, you can melt it down and start again.”

Ireland is a good place to make chocolate but even here the weather can be a problem. “On a wet day, especially with high humidity, the excess moisture can be a problem. And on a hot summer’s day, it is impossible to work."

My favourite. Well, one of many!

 “Chocolate should be fun,” he says. “Put a smile on customers faces, adults as well as kids! I am often asked, Can you do this? I say I’ll give it a go and if it works it works”.

He had an unusual request over the recent Bank Holiday weekend. His premises were to be one of the calls on a James Bond theme arranged by a wife as part of her husband's 40th birthday celebrations. The party group were split into fours and at least one group was calling to Koko where they would find a chocolate grenade and hidden inside was 007’s favourite drink, the Martini (shaken, not stirred). I had an envious look.

Milk chocolate ganache

 Frank makes the chocolate upstairs. We were sampling as we spoke and one that really caught my attention was the Ginger-Honey-Seaweed combination, a marvellous concentration of flavours and a very long finish indeed. Superb and as Frank pointed out, all three ingredients are good for you!

His own favorite - it changes weekly! - is the Rum Truffle. “You can't go wrong with a Rum Truffle, particularly if you have enough rum!”

Halloween choc and awe!

Kirsch is another liquor that Frank uses. He uses Balkan Cherries, stones out, stalks on, and soaks them for ages in a big bucket of Kirsch. Then they are dipped in dark chocolate and are divine! He also uses the likes of crystallised orange and ginger.

Christmas, fast approaching, is a peak time for Koko. And, as Frank relies on local customers (he doesn't do wholesale), he is always hoping for reasonable weather in the two weeks before the holiday, so that people can comfortably use the roads and get to Kinsale.

 And everything here is fresh. “Everything you see here was started in the last two days. You get fresh stock, nothing is old here, it just turns over.” Quite a commitment but he gets great satisfaction from his work and loves having his own business.

By the way, he is right in the heart of the town, opposite the main car park alongside the tourist office. So do call in and take a look and while you are there you may also have a cup of coffee, maybe a hot chocolate? And, buying or looking, you are assured of a hearty welcome from Frank.

The Rising Tide on a High. Winners of Kinsale Chowder Cook-Off

The Rising Tide on a High
Winners of Kinsale Chowder Cook-Off

Winners: Sandra and Craig of the Rising Tide

It was the first chowder that we tasted and we knew it was a good one. The Rising Tide's Sandra Murphy, with Head Chef Craig Guiney alongside, greeted us with a big smile and that smile got even bigger later on when the Rising Tide were declared the winners of the ‘Cork Heat’ of the All-Ireland Chowder Cook-Off.  

This hugely popular competition, sponsored by Clóna,was the opening event of the Kinsale Gourmet Festival, and was hosted by the Kinsale Good Food Circle at Acton’s Hotel last Friday.

Quite a few strong contenders emerged as we made our way around the room. Quinlan’s Seafood Bar were making their debut here and confidence was high as they been crowned Supreme Champions for their fresh crab-meat at the recent Blas na hEireann Awards in Dingle.

Cornstore (left) was busy as was Clon's Richy

The White Horse Bar, from Ballincollig, was one of our first calls - we had arranged a “date’ on twitter. Cockles were in the mix here and it was gluten free. Indeed, I’m told the popular restaurant takes good care of people looking for gluten free. So there’s a tip for you.

The Electric Fish Bar featured mussels in their chowder and that too tasted as if it would be a contender as did Ricky's from Clonakilty, also offering mussel in their bowl. Ballycotton Pier 26 had one of the more colourful offerings, smoked fish in the mix, while the Pink Elephant had prawns.

The Poacher’s Inn had another good one with Star Anise among the flavours while runners up Bastion featured Saffron (which went down very well with CL). Ballydehob’s Budds emerged as a place to watch. Their regular chowder was good and they also had a vegan one on hand. They make great use of seaweed and their seaweed butter was a very tasty example indeed.

A warming chowder from the White Horse crew

Graeme Campbell, executive head chef at the Celtic Ross, had recruited the formidable Sally Barnes and they had another excellent chowder, accompanied by some of Sally’s smoked mackerel paté.

Actually, quite a few of the accompaniments were tasty. Didn't taste all the brown bread available but I thought the one from Nine Market Street in Kinsale was outstanding. Perhaps the top “side” was the drink offered by Cornstore, a Jameson Black Barrel, basil and rosemary infused whiskey sour. Thanks to local brewer Sam Black for the heads up!

Cornstore were the holders and they made a terrific effort to make it two in a row with an excellent chowder containing smoked haddock, mussel chowder, bacon and dry sherry and a vegetable mirepoix.

Budd's of Ballydehob and their vegan chowder (smaller pot)

The line-up in the Kinsale Suite at Actons featured:  Cornstore Restaurant, Budds Restaurant, Ballydehob, The Rising Tide, Glounthaune, The Fish Bar at Electric, Cork City, Bastion of Kinsale, The Pink Elephant, Kilbrittain, The White Horse, Ballincollig,  Richy’s Restaurant, Clonakilty, Poachers Inn, Bandon, Pier 26 Restaurant, Ballycotton, Celtic Ross Hotel, Rosscarbery, Quinlans Seafood Bar, Cork City, Nine Market St, Kinsale and The Speckled Door, Old Head.

The winner will represent Cork at the All-Ireland Chowder Cook-Off in Kinsale next April, and subsequently travel to Newport, Rhode Island to be part of the Great Chowder Cook-off in June, 2017.

Seafood Cafe at Blue Haven

Seafood Cafe at Blue Haven

It was seafood all the way at the new Seafood Cafe in the Blue Haven last week. And why not? After all we were on the Wild Atlantic Way. Not that there much wild about it on one of the best days of the summer. Naturally enough, by the time we arrived after a noon cruise around the harbour, the sunny outside seats were taken and we were accommodated inside. No hardship there.

Both the starters came from nearby Oysterhaven. Jamie’s Oysterhaven Mussels, a big pot of them for €9.95, were served with a garlic, white wine, parsley and cream (lots of it) sauce and garlic crostini. Very tasty.

For €6.95, I got the oddly titled Quarter Dozen Oysterhaven Oysters, served on crushed ice, with a Guinness shot, lemon, and seaweed soda bread. The Oysters, all three of them,  were top notch, a taste of the Atlantic for sure.

By the way, my server suggested Carlsberg and Heineken when I asked for craft beer but a few friendly words later and I was sipping a delicious local pale ale from Black’s Brewery. Indeed, they have a bunch of craft beers here and also that gorgeous local cider by Stonewell.

On then to the main courses. I thoroughly enjoyed my Char Grilled Swordfish Nicoise Style with Green beans, fondant potatoes, mixed olives, soft boiled egg, sun blushed tomatoes, pea shoots. The fish was perfectly cooked and the rest of the dish added more texture and flavours. (Cost €21.95).

CL was happy too with her Jamie's Claypot King Prawns and Gubbeen Chorizo, with chilli and garlic butter, shallots, parsley and served with garlic crostini. Another good flavoursome mix here for €12.95.

Two Affogatos later and we were back out in the sunshine.

Kinsale - just a little taster!

Kinsale - just a little taster!

Just a few of the many eating places in the town.

Click here for more detailed info.

Twenty Four Hours in Kinsale

Twenty Four Hours in Kinsale
Forts, Food, Craft Beer!

It was Friday the 13th but we weren't staying at home. We were on the road to Kinsale for an overnight stay.

First call was to Charlesfort, this time, not to visit the early 17th century fort but to take the harbourside walk that begins with a stroll down the left hand side of the sprawling complex.  There are good views of Charlesfort and the town as you start off and later the Old Head comes into view.

Charlesfort (above) and James Fort

The path, with the waters of the harbour on your right, is not the smoothest and, at one point, you have to make a short walk across a stony beach. You pass through a boatyard on your way to Lower Cove. This was where we turned back. The way forward is not clear but apparently you can reach the point with views across to the Old Head and out to sea where the Sovereign Islands lie.

We had a date with Sam and Maudeline Black at their brewery in Farm Lane. They were working their way through a busy afternoon but found time to give us a tour and tasting. After that, we checked into our hotel, the Old Bank. Though this is right smack bang in the middle of the town, I must admit I'd never heard of it.

Kinsale evening

It is part of the Blue Haven holdings here and it proved a very good base indeed. It has no parking but the public car park is quite close. We got a warm welcome and indeed spent a pleasant night here and the breakfast was very good indeed. They had some decent choices and the toast was cut from a proper loaf (Cuthbert’s), not your usual sliced pan. Good value too.

Time now for a walk down the Pier Road as the sun began to set. Got a few photos in before heading back to the hotel. Our next port of call was the relatively new restaurant, Bastion (they have Prosecco on tap!), where we enjoyed an excellent meal.

Evening in Kinsale

 Afterwards, just a few yards away, I sampled some craft beers, Black’s (of course) and Metalman, in the Malt Lane. They had quite a selection here and an even bigger selection of whiskeys.

Old Bank

We visited another fort in the morning. This is James Fort, across the water from Charlesfort which it pre-dates. Nowadays, it is stoutly defended by the OPW (no interior access) but there are fine views and also some excellent walks in the surrounding fields.

Back down to the car then and away to Garretstown where we expected to find the surfers. But they were outnumbered by canoeists from a city club who were getting some much needed practice in. Needless to say, the camera was out of the bag again.

Stayed with the coast roads until we came to another beach, this Harbour View near Kilbrittain. This looks safer, certainly calmer, than Garretstown but not as well equipped with parking facilities. Still, a lovely place to stroll around in the sun and we weren't the only ones taking advantage of the beach and the dunes.

Harbour View

 We had a late lunch pencilled in at another relatively new restaurant, this the Monk’s Lane in the middle of the village of Timoleague, famous for its ruined abbey. But before all that the camera, with fast lens attached, was put into action again in an attempt to get a few shots of cars taking part on the West Cork Rally. They were driving (though not racing at this point) along the road by the abbey.

 The meal in Monk’s Lane was superb and great to see local craft beer on sale there as well. The rally cars had vanished at that stage and we headed up towards Bandon on the way home after a lovely twenty four hours, well maybe 26, in the area.

See also: My Kinsale Guide

Black’s Brewery

Monk’s Lane Restaurant

Bastion Restaurant

Part of a walk-on circle of plaques depicting local people and
connections in the grounds of Timoleague church

Kinsale's Latest Bastion of Culinary Excellence

A Bastion of Culinary Excellence

Kinsale’s Latest Restaurant

Tuna & Apple

No shortage of restaurants in Kinsale but Bastion, the latest, seems to have found a niche of its own. You’ll find it on the corner of Market Street and Main Street in the town centre and inside you’ll find great local produce, cooked and presented with some style. Bastion may not be out of the way but it is certainly out of the usual.

You walk into the first room, with tall tables and seats, and here you can sip some of their fine wines and nibble on tasty Bar Bites including Marinated Olives and Serrano Ham. The interior room, normal level tables, is where the serious eating takes places and here you may choose from selections of Small Plates and Large Plates.

Scallops

We were there at the weekend, celebrating a significant birthday (they are all significant at this stage!) and didn't get any further than the Small Plates. The selection was right up our alley and we shared no less than six of the plates before moving on to dessert.

Our choices - they were brought to the table in pairs - were Wild Mushroom Orzo (7.50), Charred Quail (9.00), Ham Hock Croquettes (7.50), Char-grilled Scallops (12.00), Tuna and Apple (12.00), and Smoked Salmon and Beetroot “Cannelloni” (7.00). All were excellent, well cooked, well presented and made for a very exciting meal indeed.

Wild Mushroom Orzo

My favourite was the Scallops, with cauliflower purée, chorizo, panagratta and parsley. CL was thrilled with the Tuna & Apple, charred, tartare, saffron pickled fennel, apple variations and blueberries. And another that really excited the taste buds - we both agreed - was the Wild Mushroom Orzo: Forest Mushrooms, caramelised onions, chive butter sauce and truffle.

The same high standard prevailed when the desserts arrived. My delightful bowl contained their Irish Coffee Crème brûlée (6.75), a clever (the brûlée was hidden half-way down) and lovely combination of whiskey jelly and anglaise foam. The other dessert, Toasted Apple (6.50), may not sound great but it too was a delightful mix of textures and sweet flavours with Burned caramel mousse, pain d'epices, apple and ginger custard.

Smoked salmon

A couple of cups of the excellent Badger & Dodo Coffee finished off the evening. Earlier we had been sipping two of their white wines, the Butterfly Ridge Riesling Gewurztraminer (5.50) from Oz and the Senorio de Ayud Chardonnay (6.50) from Spain. Very Highly Recommended.

Bastion

Market St/Main St corner

Kinsale

County Cork.

Tel: 0214709696

Email: helenbastion@hotmail.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BastionKinsale/info

Ham Croquettes, Toasted Apple below and, bottom Quail

See also: Black's Brewery, Kinsale
My Kinsale Guide

Black’s Brewery of Kinsale. Up and Away on a Rocketship.

Black’s Brewery of Kinsale

Up and Away on a Rocketship
Or maybe a Model T

It was a “productive January” for Sam and Maudeline Black, the lively friendly couple behind the fast growing Black’s Brewery in Kinsale.

“It’s a good month to try things,” added Sam, when I called there at the weekend. And they've added a few to their already popular range, including the Model T Stout. Love the name. Henry Ford, maker of the Model T motor car, went on to sell 15 millions units. Reckon Sam and Maudeline would settle for 15m pints over the next few years!

It was one of the beers we tasted at their little bar in the brewery. The other was the Rocketship IPA. Sam has been surprised by the reaction to this one. “Not everyone likes it but those that do are fanatical followers.” He knows a bunch of fellows that will drink nothing else now!

I asked Sam what was his own personal favourite. A tough question, a bit like asking a parent if they have a favourite child. The baby of the family always gets the attention. Sam started loving the Kinsale Pale Ale, then drank the Session for a long time and then came that Rocketship. Now he’s singing the praises of Hi Viz. “This has extra hops and is the best we’ve made..very pleased with it”. 

He’s not the only one. The Hi Viz won a Silver Medal at the recent Alltech Brews & Food Festival. There was silver too for the Black IPA and a bronze for the Rocketship. 

You must be wondering now where you can find all these smashing beers from Kinsale. Well, in the space of just over two years the Blacks, who have given major attention to distribution,  now have a long lost of stockists.  You’ll see their products in lots of restaurants as well.

Not too many guys get a home-brew starter kit as a Valentine's Day present. But that’s exactly what Clonakilty girl Maudeline presented to Sam some years back. “It was the best present ever,” said Sam and that started the road to the current Kinsale operation on Farm Lane.

I asked if they saw any trends on the near horizon. “There's always trends. Saison had its run. I think collaborations, between two breweries, will be the next one.” Already, there has been one between Cork’s Rising Sons and Beara Brewing in the US.

The busy Blacks are always looking ahead, always planning for their customers. And those customers come from a large range of ages and backgrounds. “All ages, male and female. And great to see young people now going for quality.” 

Rocketship and medal!

Great too to meet and chat with the enthusiastic Blacks. Delighted to be a customer. Spent the following 24 hours in Kinsale and had no bother finding their products. Local places to note for craft beer are Malt Lane in the town and Monks Lane in nearby Timoleague.

* Tours of the brewery will start soon. Keep an eye on the website and on their Facebook page for updates.

See also: My Kinsale Guide
Bastion, Kinsale's latest restaurant

The Kinsale Gourmet Academy.

The Kinsale Gourmet Academy

Speaking at the launch were (clockwise from top left)
 David Rice, Lord Mayor Alan Coleman,
Des McGahan and Ross Lewis.

Ross Lewis, the Cork-born Michelin star winning chef and co-owner of Dublin restaurant Chapter One, spoke of his early visits to Kinsale as he launched the spanking new Kinsale Gourmet Academy at Ballinacurra House on Tuesday.

“Kinsale was the only place where you could get coffee in 1978. That was in the Blue Haven, on Saturdays and Sundays only. And it was a bonus if you got a scone, left over from Saturday!”

Ross has a great admiration for the area and especially for Martin Shanahan of Fishy Fishy. At the Chef’s Table in Chapter One, they often have US visitors and these visitors were regularly asked if they were visiting Kinsale. And the usual answer was: Yes, we are going to Fishy, Fishy. Now Ross asks the visitors if they will visit Kinsale, after visiting Fishy Fishy.

Ballinacurra Head Chef David Rice heads up the new purpose built and very well equipped academy. David “missed medicine by about 600 points” and started his culinary career washing potatoes (with an occasional promotion to making sandwiches) in the Blue Haven.

Limerick man David eventually worked under Ross at Chapter One. “What that man taught me. Unbelievable!” He obviously taught David a respect for the country’s artisan producers and the Kinsale academy will showcase their work.

The sea featured in both demo dishes

“There will be a variety of courses, including one day, two day, and five day courses, that will be both for learning and relaxing! Next year, we intend to set up a professional course of a much longer duration. I really appreciate this evening’s turnout.”

Cork County Mayor Alan Coleman and owner Des McGahan also spoke at the well-attended launch, both with great humour and that trend continued when Ross and David took the mike. And indeed, it was a feature throughout the cookery demonstration that the pair undertook in the academy itself.

It was a lovely evening in a magical place. Some beautiful canapes and later there were pizzas from the brick oven and cocktails from the newly opened Cuban Bar. The Cuban Cocktail Lounge has authentic paraphernalia and original objects de art items sourced directly from Cuba. It’s the perfect Rum Shack for Havana Club based Mojitos, Cuba Libras, Daiquiris and more.

A large focus for the Academy will be building on Ballinacurra’s reputation for catering for private groups and corporates. Owners Des and Lisa McGahan will work with them to design a bespoke course to suit their needs and objectives, level of capability, and so forth. It will include a teambuilding element, adding in meeting time or other activities.

Individuals will also be able to book into scheduled courses which will range in duration from a half day upwards. Classes will be kept small to ensure the students receive the best quality and one-to one tutoring possible. The Academy has been purpose built with the students in mind,  8 double workstations where 16 students can work hands-on. There is also an instructors island with the top-of-the-range induction hob for demonstrations.

Ross and David show it's done!

"Ballinacurra House and Kinsale have become synonymous with fabulous food for many years.

The new Gourmet Academy will further strengthen Kinsale’s reputation as the ‘culinary’ capital’. It was one the key factors missing in Kinsale’s bid as ‘Foodie Capital of Ireland’ and we feel it’s the final piece of the jigsaw which will further add to the prestige of the town,” said Des.

Ballinacurra House, in a rural area on the edge of the town, is set within a walled garden with 10 foot-high stone walls, security gates and 40 acres of  woodland and lawns. This elegant country mansion brings back old-world opulence and personal service in a unique and totally private environment. “Our exclusive-use estate allows you the opportunity to share your experiences or special occasion with friends, family or peers in magical ambient surrounds, without compromise.” If you have a corporate event or a family event coming up, why not check it all out here.

Website: www.kinsalegourmetacademy.com

Email: info@kinsalegourmetacademy.com

Tel: +353 (0)21 4779040

Dingle School

Just about two weeks earlier, I had attended the opening, by Neven Maguire, of the Dingle Cookery School. This is another magnificent facility with a team of excellent chefs in charge of a large range of courses, everything from a half day Catch and Cook course to a four week evening course on Ethnic Cookery. And they also have a couple of Pop-Up Restaurant nights scheduled, including one for Halloween.

See the Autumn/Winter courses at www.dinglecookeryschool.com.

Email: info@dinglecookeryschool.com

Tel: +353 (0)86 8723521.