Monday, October 3, 2016

Breton Night At The Celtic Ross

Breton Night At The Celtic Ross

Ancient East Meets Wild Atlantic Way

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We expected good things aplenty when guest chef Eric Thezé from La Bohème in Waterford and host chef Alex Petit of the Celtic Ross teamed up at the West Cork venue to present a Brittany Tasting Menu as part of A Taste of West Cork festival. And good things was what we got!
Both chefs are from Brittany and while the vast majority of the ingredients were local, from West Cork itself, it was no surprise that the two brought in some superb vegetables from their homeland. Many of you will have driven through Brittany from the ferry port at Roscoff and will have seen the fields of artichokes.
ap1200252And the artichokes featured in our first dish, the Mise en Bouche: Coquille St. Jacques, Roast Purple Artichoke, cauliflower purée and smoked lardons. Manager Neil Grant said he “allowed” Eric bring the scallop from Kilmore Quay but the artichoke was probably the star of the plate, its gorgeous mild flavour a perfect foil to the scallop and part of an excellent combination.
Again, many of you will have tasted another Breton speciality, the Buckwheat Galette. Our starter was packed with a generous amount of smoked salmon, with leeks too and topped with a lovely Chive Créme Fraîche. We were up and running, enjoying the food and a glass of wine. The wine was all French and I must say I was surprisingly impressed with the Les Folies Landiers Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, a Sur Lie version, dry and fresh.
ap1200254Now it was time for the fish course: Roasted Monkfish on the bone, Mussels, Coco de Paimpol, Armorique bisque. What a superb dish. The perfectly cooked fish, the creamy beans and the rich lobster sauce. Wow!
ap1200256And more richness to follow as the meat arrived: Duo of Irish lamb, rump and croquette, sel de Guerande, sauce Paloise, Jerusalem artichoke two ways. The Paloise is exactly the same as Béarnaise but you use tarragon instead of mint and the salt comes from near the small walled town of Guerande in the south coast of Brittany. Again, it all came together so well.
We were happy punters in the Celtic Ross but there was still one final treat to come: Sablé Breton (a Breton shortbread), Rosscarberry strawberries, salty caramel ice cream, Crème de Cassis Liqueur. I don’t think I need add to that, a very lovely end to a smashing evening that had started with a kir based on the local Stonewell Cider. If you’re coming to the East Cork Festival next September, do watch out for this event.ap1200257

Coffees Stars

Coffees Stars
From Hancock & Abberton

Dublin based Hancock & Abberton were celebrating on the double at the recent Great Taste Awards when two of their coffees won gold stars. Their Really Good Organic Coffee, two stars this time, had won before and great to see a repeat but the surprise was perhaps the performance of their Decaf Coffee that was awarded one star, “indistinguishable from regular coffees in the blind tasting”.
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I got the opportunity to sample both winners recently and yes that Decaf, made from 100% Arabica beans, is a pleasant surprise, all the elements of a good coffee, particularly those delicate floral notes, without the caffeine. Here’s what the Great Tastes judges said: ”a deep satisfying flavour, with good length. Well balanced bitterness and acidity with a refreshing aftertaste. …, gentle on the palate but nevertheless has depth. An excellent coffee of its type”.
Guy Hancock and Anne Abberton, who co founded the firm in 2004 (initially known as Café de Cuba) were naturally delighted to announce their Two Gold Stars and One Gold Star at the Great Taste Awards, the world’s most coveted blind-tasted food awards , which celebrates the very best in food and drink . “This win for our decaf coffee is also an testament that great tasting coffee need not be compromised by decaffeination.”
Really Good Organic Coffee has previously won two Gold Stars in the Great Taste Awards 2012 and repeated that feat.  It has been described by the judges as a coffee with “a lovely roasted aroma, clean citrus taste and rewarding aftertaste and mouth feel, the whole experience is well balanced between bitterness and acidity and complexity”. It is indeed another excellent coffee made from dark beans with a distinctive shine; it is rich and strong, well balanced and satisfying, especially earlier in the day!
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Judged by over 500 of the most demanding palates, belonging to food critics, chefs, cooks, restaurateurs and producers as well as a whole host of food writers and journalists, Great Taste is widely acknowledged as the most respected food accreditation scheme for artisan and speciality food producers. So quite a pat on the back for Hancock and Abberton.
As well as a badge of honour, the unmistakeable black and gold Great Taste label is a signpost to a wonderful tasting product, which has been discovered through hours and hours of blind-tasting by hundreds of judges.
There were 10,000 Great Taste entries this year and the panel of judges included; TV chef and author, Valentine Warner, MasterChef judge and restaurant critic, Charles Campion, fifth generation baker, Tom Herbert from Hobbs House Bakery, and Great British Bake Off winner, Frances Quinn; food buyers from Harrods, Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols and Waitrose and chefs including, James Golding, chef director of THE PIG Hotels, and Kevin Gratton, chef director of HIX Restaurants.
These two coffees now join the company’s other Great Taste Award winning brands including Café de Cuba Santiago (Great Taste Award Winner 2014 and Fixx Coffee (Great Taste Winner 2013 and 2009).
Hancock & Abberton supply to:­-
Trade customers such as cafes, hotels, restaurants, offices, showrooms and speciality retail outlets;
Coffee and Tea drinkers who frequent our trade customers’ outlets;
Coffee and Tea drinkers at home via the on line store
Stockists: http://www.hancockandabberton.com/blog/buy-really-good-organic-coffee-in-ireland.html

The countdown to Taste Cork Week is on…

The countdown to Taste Cork Week is on…

Events are booking up fast so secure your tickets for your favourite events before it’s too late! Details and bookings here.
Here’s just a taste of what’s on offer from 10th – 16th October:
Venues include: 

Cafe Velo, Gallagher’s Gastropub, Cronin’s  Crosshaven, Bierhaus, Currans, El Vino, Cork International Hotel, The Kingsley Hotel, Fenn’s Quay, The Oliver Plunkett, the Yellow Sub, Sober Lane, The Metropole Hotel, The Imperial, Nash 19, Toonsbridge Sandwich Stall, Nine Market Street, Miyazaki, Sober Lane, Liberty Grill and Blarney Post Office Cafe will all be hosting special Taste Cork Week Dishes, Menus or Offers!
With more still to be announced…..

See and book here Taste Cork Week

Superb Sherry. And A Tasty Crianza

Superb Sherry. And A Tasty Crianza

Spanish Gems

Zuleta Fino, Jerez (DO), 15%, €9.15 Karwig Wines
Speaking of Fino and the other drier styles of Sherry, Jancis Robinson says: “Most of them are still ridiculously underpriced.” This Highly Recommended bottle (37.5cc) is one of them, great value at Karwig’s. Try it as an aperitif, with tapas, with sushi or (if not a purist!) mix it fifty fifty with 7 Up, both ice-cold, add ice and fresh mint leaves.
The Zuleta has a light straw colour with “delicate floral, almond, and yeasty aromas and flavour”. It is crisp, soft, and dry on the palate. They recommended that you serve it very well chilled. And a tip: store after opening, tightly corked and refrigerated it will keep for up to a week.
Monte Toro Selection Crianza, Toro (DO) 2007, 14.5%, €16.20 Karwig Wines
This Highly Recommended red is from Toro, an area in the north west of Spain that produces ripe full bodied reds. It is 100% Tempranillo, the grape known locally as Tinta de Toro. This Crianza has spent 12 months in barrel (fifty fifty US and French oak) and 24 months in bottle before release.
It was worth waiting for. Colour is a dark red with hues of purple. The nose speaks of fruits, echoes there too of toast and vanilla. It is full bodied, silky, intense and savoury, and Highly Recommended

Local is King at The Imperial Hotel

Local is King at The Imperial Hotel

Producers Reign in the Pembroke
x-food-04Frank Hederman. Macroom Mozzarella. Jack McCarthy. Clonakilty Corn-fed Chicken. Hake from Castletownbere. Black sole from Kinsale. Aged West Cork Hereford Beef.
There’s a strong Irish input to the menu at the Imperial Hotel recently, much of it down to new Executive Chef Nicky Foley who has been known to do a bit of foraging around the Waterford village of Kilmeaden, his native place.
In the plush and spacious Pembroke Restaurant, I just had to start with that Hederman Smoked Salmon with buttermilk pancakes, pickled cucumber and horseradish. Beautiful colours and textures (the soft pancakes and the smooth fish made for each other) but above all the layers and layers of flavour that this expert smoker magics from his fish. Oh my!


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There are increasing examples of heritage tomato salads on local menus and the Pembroke’s is top notch. Sourdough and heritage tomato salad is the full title and it comes with green olives, fried capers and garden herbs. A seasonal delight.
They are rightly proud of their steaks here, all from 28 day aged beef. I went for the fillet, a handsome 8 ounce cube that came, like they all do, with triple cooked chips and a choice of sauces – mine was the traditional pepper. One of the very best steaks in these parts, I’d have to say.
CL went for the Clonakilty chicken with roast garlic and mushroom. Like the beef, the flavour was superb here, outstanding in fact, quite a dish, served with vegetables and potatoes and all for 18 euro.
The desserts are all priced at €5.95 and we made the usual decision to share! And there was quite a lot to share when the Mango Parfait, Coconut and Milk Pudding, and Spiced Pineapple Carpaccio arrived. Not one of your usual suspects! A top class finale to a lovely meal.
Chef Nicky comes from a family of ten, he has six brothers and three sisters and food has always been a huge part of his family life. “My mother is a very good home cook and I was inspired by her love of food and also her attitude to using everything and wasting nothing. I am particularly mindful of using local produce, ingredients that are not forced but have been allowed to grow and mature as nature intended. That’s the real secret ingredient to any great dish.”
Nicky travelled extensively throughout Europe before spending five years with chef Richard Corrigan at Bentley’s in London. “Working under Richard was a fantastic experience,” said Nicky, “he always strove for perfection and encouraged me to be a better chef and to look at food in a more creative and respectful way.”
Some of the highlights of Nicky’s career include cooking live on CNBC news, competing in the Taste of London Live Cook Off and winning the Square Meal Canapé Cup, Critics Cup. He has cooked for the toast of London and is now bringing his own unique style of food to Cork.x-meat-03

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Northern Whites. Double Delight.

Northern Whites
Double Delight


On the Loire

We’ve got two excellent whites for you to consider this week. One is a Riesling from Germany’s Rheingau and the other is a Sauvignon Blanc from the little-known Menetou-Salon appellation in the Loire valley.

Germany’s greatest variety, Riesling, is first documented in the Rheingau in 1435. Don't think Carl Ehrhard has been there that long but he has built up a great reputation and our selection is a lovely example.

Menetou-Salon is a village at the eastern end of the Loire Valley wine region. Wine-searcher.com says it is “forecast by many to be a potential rival for the famous Sancerre appellation (its immediate north-eastern neighbor), Menetou-Salon is rapidly establishing its reputation at an international level”. The reputation is being built on two varieties: Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Carl Ehrhard Rüdesheim Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2015, Rheingau (Germany), 11.5%, €18.60 Karwig Wines

A few words:
Kabinett: a wine made from fully ripened grapes of the main harvest, one level lower than Spätlese.
Feinherb: off dry.

This light gold 100% Riesling has lots of mini-bubbles clinging to the glass. There are white fruit aromas and the intense fresh fruit flavours (apple, citrus) make the tongue tingle at the start before rolling deliciously on. That tingle is the acidity keeping all that lively lovely fruit (with its hints of sweetness) in balance, right through to the excellent finish. Carl Ehrhard never leaves one down and this is Very Highly Recommended.

Just to let those of you worried about the whiffs of diesel from some Rieslings know, there is not a trace of fumes here!


Jean-Max Roger, Morogues, Le Petit Clos 2014, Menetou-Salon (AOC), 12.5%, €21.55 Karwig Wines

This is a classic Loire Sauvignon blanc, on a par with neighbouring Sancerre where Jean-Max also farms. It is elegant and restrained and the perfect partner for “the bounty of the seas,..... Also a good match for white meats and goat’s cheese”. The fruit comes from 5 hectares of vines in Le Petit Clos vineyard. In this steep south-facing slope, grape quality is the season long target.

This light gold wine has pleasant herbaceous aromas, citrus hints too, and these follow through on a fresh and lively palate, superb balance and long finish. Dry and crisp, with lots of character, this excellent Sauvignon Blanc is Highly Recommended.

Wednesday, September 14, 2016

Fine Art and Fine Dining at Greyfriars Church. Superb Waterford Gallery

Fine Art and Fine Dining at Greyfriars Church
Superb Waterford Gallery
Hake
Might as well have been a Philistine that walked into the old Greyfriars Church for the EAT Waterford Tasting Menu last Sunday afternoon. Oh, I knew about the multi-course lunch and the combination of local restaurants that had worked so hard to put it together and showcase their different skills. But I had no idea that the old church is now a gallery, has been since 2001.

But soon, one or two local enthusiasts were pointing me away from the tables, to the walls. I hadn't really noticed all the artwork hanging here. And so I started viewing before too many diners came in. “There’s a Yeats there,” I was told. And so there was, an oil on canvas titled While Grass Grows.
Greyfriars and Jack B. Yeats

And close by there’s a Paul Henry (Evening in Kerry), a Mainie Jellett (Virgin and Child), an Evie Hone (abstract), one by George William Russell, better known as AE, called Boy with Donkey on Skyline, a Louis Le Brocquy (Belfast Refugees at Mespil Road, Dublin, 1941), and quite a few more, thirty nine in all.

The 39 have been selected from the Waterford Municipal Art Collection by Patrick Murphy, director, Royal Hibernian Academy in Dublin and were exhibited in the RHA in 2015. There is not much time left to see the current display in Greyfriars as it due to finish at the end of the current month. All the Greyfriar details here.



Amuse Bouche
 So back then to meet the strangers at our table - not strangers for long - and time to study the menu with a glass of wine in hand. Some pretty pictures soon on our plates, starting with the Colcannon, Leek compote and Bacon Crumb Amuse Bouche.


An amazingly juicy Heirloom tomato from the local Grantstown nurseries was the feature of our starter, a salad with ribbons of local vegetables. The next course, the fish, was possibly the highlight of the afternoon: Seared Dunmore East Hake “Chu-Chie”, coconut, Thai Spice Rub, Kaffir Lime Leaves and pickled veg, a perfect balance between the delicate fish and the spices.



Starter

Next up was the meat course: Honey mustard glazed pork neck, smoked bacon choucroute, home-made white pudding, and red wine apple purée. Another excellent balanced combination. I liked that choucroute and the purée went so well with the pork.


Tom Cleary popped up on nearly every table over the weekend but it was something of a surprise to some to see the well-known grower of salads and vegetables contributing to the dessert: Bavois of Tom Cleary’s organic beetroot, pistachio, wild blackberry glaze, lime and basil sorbet.



Pork
 The Tasting Menu was the work of EAT Waterford, a collaborative initiative by the restaurateurs of Waterford City, that is aimed at helping food lovers to find the best places to eat in Waterford.


This year it was the turn of Athenaeum House Hotel, Bellissimo, L’Atmosphere, Loko, Momo, the Olive Tree, Sabai and the Tower Hotel, all ardent supporters of local produce to contribute their time and skills. No shortage of local drinks either at Greyfriars with beers from Dungarvan Brewery and gin from the Blackwater Distillery on hand. Wines too, of course, but we haven’t started to grow enough grapes to make our own yet!

Dessert
See also:

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

The Granary’s Waterford Brunch. And more from the harvest streets

The Granary’s Waterford Brunch
And more from the harvest streets
Goatsbridge trout

Peter Fowler, owner of The Granary, was in great form as he welcomed guests to the bright and spacious cafe. The guests came in numbers for the Producers Brunch, one of the highlights of the annual Waterford Harvest Festival. It was a sell-out, with part of the proceeds going to the local Samaritans.


The Granary put on a fantastic spread last Sunday morning for guests that included Gay Byrne. “This is the first time for The Granary,” said the enthusiastic Peter. I don't think it will be the last time. “We have met the best suppliers, suppliers that we wouldn't otherwise have met. Events like these put ideas in your head.” He had praise too for his staff “the best in Waterford”.

Anyone for porridge?
 The event was sponsored by John Flahavan; Flahavan's are long time supporters of the festival. For over 200 years Flahavan’s has been operating its oatmill beside the River Mahon in Kilmacthomas, John reminded us as we sampled their Bircher muesli with Deise honey, fruit compote and cinnamon!

John then handed the mike over to another John, John McKenna. “What an unbelievable spread,” enthused McKenna. “This would not have been possible in the years when Sally (who was in the audience) and I were starting out”. He went on to list the advantages that Waterford food enjoys and can enjoy into the future, “unique food, including the blaa”. “You have everything here to stake a claim to be food capital of Ireland's Ancient East”.

Dessert?

The choices on the groaning tables were eye-catching, everything from Hot and Cold Choices, salads, cheeses, desserts, and drinks. Hard to list them all but here’s a few highlights:

Cod from Jim Doherty with a Metalman Pale Batter;

Baked fillets of Goatsbridge Trout;

Broccoli, tomato and Dungarvan Cheese Salad;
Blaas by Walsh's Bakery, sourdough by Seagull Bakery;
Cheese selection by the Little Milk Company;
Granary desserts, especially that massive Blackberry Pavlova;
And brunch drinks from Clodagh Davis and Cahir's Apple Farm.


Smoke on the street
 We had arrived in Waterford around lunchtime on Saturday and, having found parking (not easy, but we got lucky!), we started looking at the hot food stalls. Quite a few around, lots of smoke rising but as soon as we reached the Irish Piedmontese stand, we stopped and ordered a pair of their delicious burgers. Tasty stuff. Enjoyed them sitting on the sun as the band played on the Thin Gin stage.


Barry John was sampling his award winning flavoured sausages. How about Bacon and Cabbage? Maybe Cheddar Cheese and Chilli? No shortage of pizzas. There was a taste of Portugal. Stuff to bring home too, honey from Knockmealdown, trout from Mag of Goatsbridge and jams from Wexford Preserves both in the SuperValu area. There were Cocktail Classes, Whiskey Tastings, Iyer’s Pop Up and so much more.


Here be friendly dragon.
There was a massive dragon under the Bishop’s Palace and he, multicolored against Saturday’s blue sky, was dominating the Mall but no one worried - he looked a friendly fellow. All kinds of art all over over the place, on the streets, on the quays. The larger than life size tables and chairs, there was even a deck-chair, attracted kids of all ages. Tango dancers entertained us too. There was a Tapas River Tour also and we heard it was great.


And we would return to the streets again on Sunday to enjoy the fun of the Market, The Fit & Wellness Area, The Food Heroes Exhibition, Farm to Fork at Ballybricken, The Viking Rocks Craft Beer Fest, The Festival Fair, the SuperValu Food Academy. We didn't get to them all. Looks like we’ll have to go back next year!



Haute cuisine. Have you got the bottle?
See also:

Monday, September 12, 2016

Pleasures of the Sea at La Bohème

Pleasures of the Sea at La Bohème
If you walk up Gladstone Street from the Waterford quays, you will immediately see, straight ahead, an elegant Georgian building. We are headed for the equally elegant basement underneath to enjoy the fruits of the sea served up by Eric Théze and his team in La Bohème.

When Eric and his wife Christine came here, it was love at first sight. “What endeared us to the vaults of the Georgian building we chose to restore was its flagstone floors, lime washed walls and arched ceilings that reminded us of the great kitchens of the French chateaux, their old world charm and classic culinary ambience. It was meant to be a restaurant. It has the heart and soul of a kitchen with the warmth and character of a home.” La Bohème started in 2006.

It is a taste of France in the heart of Waterford but the restaurant is very much committed to using Irish produce. “Fresh, free range, organic and delivered daily is like music to our ears.” Elda Wild, M & D Bakery, Tom Cleary, the Ballybeg Horticulture Initiative (salads, herbs, veg, even the flowers in the window boxes outside!), Butler’s Family Farm, Larousse, fishermen James and Maurice O’Rourke, Grantstown Nurseries, Sheridan's Cheese, Dawn Meats, Knockalara (sheep) and Killeen (goat) for cheese, Billy Burke fish, Tea Pigs and Fancy Fungi are among their suppliers.

In the city for the annual Harvest Festival, we started our meal last Saturday evening with Croustillant of local hand-picked local Crabmeat, Julienne of vegetables with a sweet and sour Vietnamese Sauce. Enhanced by that exquisite sauce, probably the best crab dish I’ve ever come across.

 Next up was another classy treat, the Lobster Salad (Organic Leaves, Semi-sun dried Grantstown Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado Puree, Grapefruit, Watercress Mayonnaise, Raspberry Vinaigrette). A delicious memorable cold-plate! Lots of pairings here with the lobster, all good though my favourite was perhaps the ruby grapefruit. Wouldn't mind trying all those tasty mouthfuls again!


Then came the pièce de résistance, a duo of pan-fried John Dory and steamed Black Sole (in a plait!) and served with steamed new potatoes and a Pot au Feu of Tom Cleary Organic Vegetables, celeriac purée, and Lemon and Sorrel Butter Sauce. Hard to beat that gorgeous plateful but so easy to eat.



No resistance though to dessert: chocolate (lots of it!), sea-salt and vanilla ice-cream. It was a pleasure and a privilege to dine here. Merci beaucoup to Eric and Christine.


  • West Cork diners will have that privilege and pleasure at the Celtic Ross this Thursday when Eric, along with Alec Petit of the hotel, will serve up a Breton night as part of A Taste of West Cork. Don't miss it! I won't.

    La Bohème
    2 George's Street
    Waterford
    051 875 645
  • Facebook: @LaBohèmeWaterford
  • Twitter: @bohemewaterford
  • Web: http://labohemerestaurant.ie 
See also: 

SaveSave

Saturday, September 10, 2016

Amuse Bouche

....he had experienced far more global diversity than the average college junior. He knew about shaved ice and malasada, the fried pastry coated in sugar of Honolulu, and about permen cabai, the red pepper candy of Jakarta; now he picked up a simple Sindhi chicken curry recipe from the Pakistanis that became a staple of his home cooking during the New York years: caramelize some onions; toast a spice mix of turmeric, coriander, garlic, and cumin for a minute or so; throw in six chicken thighs and a bit of water; cook until the skin falls from the thighs. He knew the ways of different cultures better than he knew himself.

  • From Barack Obama by David Maraniss.

Autumn Treats from Munster Wine & Dine

AUTUMN TREATS
from Munster Wine & Dine

As Summer fades and our trip to Cashel Blue and Ballinwillin House seems like a distant memorywe're delighted to bring you news of some great events to look forward to in the Autumn. 

Placeholder Event: 
Spacial MWDC Tour & Tasting of Midleton Distillery followed by dinner in a well-known Midleton eatery
Full details, price and date to be announced in the next week, but the placeholder date is Wednesday 19th October late afternoon/early evening.   

Sunday 20th November 
Sunday Lunch in Ballyvolane House, Castlelyons with Tour and Tasting at Bertha's Revenge Gin Distillery 
Ballyvolane House is a beautiful historic Irish country house set in the stunning Blackwater Valley amongst woods, vast gardens and parkland. Run by Justin and Jenny Green, it is renowned for its delicious home-cooking using ingredients grown in Ballyvolane’s own walled garden, reared on the farm and sourced from local artisan producers. It is also home to Bertha's Revenge Gin Distillery which produces Ireland's only milk gin made from distilled whey. This is a fantastic opportunity to visit one of Ireland's most magical country houses and experience a day of life on the estate! 

Depart Cork City Hall 11.45am  
€40pp for members includes transportation to and from Ballyvolane House, tour of the distillery & tasting, and 3 course set lunch. 
Please advise of any dietary requirements (such as vegetarian, coeliac, allergies, etc ) when booking.  

Send an email to mwdcircle@gmail.com if you’d like to attend. RSVP by Friday 4th November
Cheques can be made payable to MWDC.


For those of you who missed the Summer outing, it was a really enjoyable day-out with lots of good food and wine and great company (there was even a sing-song to cap it all off!) Our hosts in both Cashel Blue and Ballinwillin House couldn't have been nicer and the passion for what they do was infectious. We'd like to thank Sarah and all the team at Cashel Blue for lending us so much of their precious time to show us around and to Patrick and Miriam of Ballinwillin who were charming and welcoming hosts who really made us feel at home. Cork Billy has summed up both visits really nicely here: http://www.corkbilly.com/search/label/Cashel%20Blue http://www.corkbilly.com/2016/05/ballinwillin-house-farm-where-deer-and.html      

We look forward to seeing you on one or both of our Autumn events! 

All the best