Frogs Attack #1. Do It Again. Soon!

Frogs Attack #1. Do It Again. Soon!

They came. They saw. They conquered. They, collectively the Frogs Attack, being two pioneering natural winemakers (Jean Foillard and Thierry Puzelat), a guerrilla chef (Antony Cointre) and a comedian (Sebastien Barrier) and they cornered their willing victims in a packed Latitude 51. 

Cork’s leading wine bar was the ideal venue for the French influenced evening. Beverley and her staff caught the informal spirit of the occasion perfectly and we wined and dined, and laughed a lot too. 

Hard to keep up with Sebastien as he roamed between the two floors. He even wandered outside at one stage, startling the customers by banging on the window and, with his phone, taking photos of the surprised faces. We were wondering was the ebullient funny man in trouble a few minutes later when a couple of cops appeared at the door but nothing to do with Sebastien!

May I introduce Jean Foillard to you, via Le Caveau catalogue: A vigneron like Jean Foillard doesn’t come around too often. Jean Foillard and his wife Agnès started their handkerchief-size domain in Morgon in the 1980’s when the majority of appellation, driven by big negoces, were (and are still) producing industrial wines. Undeterred by their surroundings, Jean and Agnès decided to embark on their own path. They returned to honest vine growing and wine making the way their grandparents did. The vines are grown organically. The same attention is paid in their cellar. There are no additives in the cellar to hide shortcuts in the vineyards because there are no shortcuts in the vineyards. The hand-harvested grapes are fermented using natural yeasts only. 

Cooking done and Le Gros relaxes 

And, quoting from the same source, Thierry Puzelat: Having met and worked with Francois Dutheil (Bandol) and Marcel Lapierre (Morgon), two pioneers of the ‘natural’ wine movement, Thierry decided he too, wanted to make his wines as naturally as possible. Puzelat’s wines are quite unique, they are highly expressive of their terroir, authentic, filled with life and have very strong personality.

Le Caveau borrowed, as we do here, this quote from Jamie Goode: ‘Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat—brothers—are natural wine royalty. They are making some of the Loire’s most interesting wines and are at the heart of the natural wine movement.’

Behind the counter: Jules and Beverley

And the wines really are superb. The night’s list: Thierry’s Clos du Tue Boeuf, blanc and rouge, and the three Morgons from Jean, all 2016, including his “Cote du Py” and the “Corcelette”. And to make things even better, they were available at shop (rather than restaurant) prices. A nice touch that!

According to his website, Antony Cointre, aka Le Gros, is not an ordinary chef, he is an enthusiastic cook. He does not have a permanent restaurant because he likes to change atmosphere and to touch lots of different audiences. …. making tasting meals in 10 steps at home for 6 or popular banquets of 650 people or even weddings in unlikely conditions. 

And Le Gros, in the tiny kitchen, came up with some tasty dishes at L’Atitude. They included a Feta and Kumquat starter, then a Monkfish carpaccio with Harissa sauce, three French cheeses with date, and dessert of chocolate and, believe or not, rhubarb.

Sebastien attacks the window!

In between the six courses, Sebastian kept us entertained and joined up with some Irish friends to play some tunes. And all the time, we were sipping and enjoying those natural wines, the real stars of the show!

I’ll finish with a message to the frogs: Please attack us again, soon!

Kinsale’s Trident Hotel. Spectacular, Inside and Out

Kinsale’s Trident Hotel. Spectacular, Inside and Out 

View from the Bridal Suite

Kinsale’s Trident Hotel must be one of the most spectacularly situated hotels in the country. Whenever I enter a room there, the view over the water makes me stop and look.

And that was even more the case recently as I was part of a group being shown the renovated bedrooms, all with new linen and pillows. The hotel is three-sided (the water completes the square) and all rooms have a view of the water. There are 75 in all, all with breath-taking views of a part of the Bandon River estuary, the harbour or the busy port and pier.

In the Bridal Suite

The Bridal Suite is probably the most stunning. It has an expanded view of the water, at least on two sides, and you can see it even better once you stroll out to its exclusive balcony. Again it is beautifully decorated, with living and loving areas. Even spotted a copy of the Kingdom of Wine by local author Ted Murphy among the distractions there. By the way, it is not just newly-married couples that end up here! So start working on the love of your life and get him or her down here.

The smallest rooms (and they are not really small) are the Superior. This class has just a shower, no bath. But it shares much the same outstanding decor as the others, the colours of the fabrics and the walls, all calm and soothing. While walking along the corridors, I was struck by the restful colour combination, mainly white and grey on the walls, blue and grey in the carpet, and a little extra colour in the curtains. All very peaceful throughout.

Evening view from Pier One restaurant

The Executive Rooms are very popular. They have thirty of them, ten on each floor, extremely well equipped and very spacious and possibly with the more expansive of the views. 

And if you are bringing the family, they have just the room for you. The Family Rooms are just that bit more roomy with a large sofa (doubles as a pull-out bed) for the kids or maybe it’s for the tired Mom and Dad.

The Signature suites are perched on the water's edge, with breath-taking views of Kinsale harbour from the large floor to ceiling windows and private balcony overlooking Kinsale harbour. You’ll enjoy additional comfort and space, a super king size bed, an Nespresso machine and more.

Pier One, again with a great view, is the restaurant. It is used mainly for large group events, such as wine tastings. And it is also where’ll you’ll get breakfast. They lay on quite a spread here, with real cheese and ham included. Loads of fruit too, plus breads and cereals. And a choice of hot dishes of course, including the full Irish (and any variation you wish) and a fish option. I choose the latter on this occasion and certainly enjoyed my two fillets of plaice (which I think a passing seagull fancied as he lingered outside the window).

Executive

Downstairs is the busy Wharf Bar and it is here that most of the daily dining, including dinner, takes place. They have a new menu and manager Hal McElroy and his staff, led by chefs Shirley Forde and Frank O’Reilly, had quite a tasting set up for our group of visitors that included many service providers in the local tourist industry.

The food (and drink!) was all arranged in the spacious Pier One as the Wharf was, of course, busy serving evening meals to the residents. Lots of local suppliers mentioned on the menu including Riverview Eggs, Quigley Meats, John Barrett butcher, Shannonvale, Clona and Sean Bohan, Matt O’Connell, Haven Shellfish, Horizon Farms, Pallas Green and Allfresh.

Family space

Not surprisingly, the fish samples caught my attention. The Stir-fried Fillet of Monkfish & Mussels on a bed of basmati rice and with its mild creamy curry sauce was a stand-out. Then again the Seared fillet of sea bass with sugar snap peas also impressed as did the slider of the Wharf Burger. 

Lots of other tempting dishes on the new menu including Chicken Supreme, John Barrett’s local Sirloin Steak, the Aged Irish Lamb Rump, Kinsale Seafood Bake, George's Homemade Chicken Goujons, Traditional Fish and Chips, and the Pea and Broad Bean Risotto.  Fairly priced too with prices ranging from 12.95 to 24.95.

Sweet tasters in Pier One, with a Knuttel on the wall.

Some tempting starters too, everything from Mussels Mariniere to Wild  Mushroom Gratin to a sharing Plate of West Cork Charcuterie (featuring Gubbeen chorizo). There is a full bar here of course with local beer and cider featured and a varied wine list too. A Loire Sauvignon blanc will cost you €6.50 a glass and if the budget stretches you may enjoy a bottle of Chateau Corbin Michotte St Emilion Grand Cru 2006 for €80.00.

You’ll find some of the same dishes on the Daytime Menu. The big difference at lunch is the Ultimate Sandwich section. You may have the Smoked Atlantic Salmon Salad, perhaps the Wharf Toasted Special, maybe the Smoked Bacon BLT. Fancy something more substantial? Then the Seared John Barrett Steak Baguette will surely fit the bill!

After all that, I dropped down to the Wharf to finish off the enjoyable evening. This bar has a nautical feel – designed by local yacht designer, Rob Jacob, to resemble elements of an old sailing ship, it is complete with portholes, decking, vaulted panel & beam ceiling and rope-wound galleon masts. And once the weather picks up, you can drink al fresco at the Foredeck Bar on the water’s edge with outdoor seating and splendid views of the harbour and estuary.

Check the ships as they come and go

* Just a reminder from Trident manager Hal McElroy about the 8th annual All-Ireland Chowder Cook-Off 2018, which will take place in Kinsale, Co Cork on Sunday 22nd April. This hugely popular event, hosted by the town’s Good Food Circle and an association of local restaurants, sees restaurants, cafés and bars compete to become the “All-Ireland Chowder Champion”.

Serious reading for the bride and groom!

Nomad Wine at Spit Cork. The Pick of Burgundy.

Nomad Wine at Spit Cork
The Pick of Burgundy

Julian (Bubble Brothers) and, right, Michael (Bradley's of Cork)

Nomad Wine has for the past decade been known as the Burgundy specialists in Ireland. Jérémy Delannoy, who joined founders Thierry Grillet and Charles Derain in 2016, told me that they have expanded into “lesser known regions of France” and that was evident on their stand at Spit Cork. But Burgundy lovers need not fret. They travel there each year to taste the new vintages. With both the founders in the restaurant business, they are strong on food and wine pairings.

Vermentino from the Languedoc is perhaps an unexpected wine on the list but the Domaine Provenquire IGP Pays D’Oc 2016 caught my eye. Very pale yet very enjoyable with the “creaminess” typical of the variety.

Some Beaujolais Chardonnay ends up, quite legitimately, as Burgundy and it is rare enough to find a Beaujolais white in Ireland. Here’s a good one to try: Domaine des Nugues Beaujolais Village 2016, moderate fruity aromas, fresh and pure on the palate, with an impressively long finish.

Jérémy pointed me in the direction of Domaine Goisot, first to their Bourgogne Aligoté 2016. Green highlights in the light gold colour, a melange of floral and fruit in the aromas, also on the palate, a little spice too, well balanced with a long finish. 

Welcome to Nomad

But the big surprise from this producer was the Saint Bris “Exogyra Virgula” 2015, the surprise being that the grape variety was Sauvignon Blanc, a really different and very interesting expression of the grape. Citrus and floral on the nose continue on to the palate where you’ll also note some spice. Drink it young. 

It goes well with seafood, shellfish, fish, calf sweetbreads, cheese soufflés, goat cheese, Comté, Emmental, Munster and Roquefort cheese. By the way, both Goisot wines have a recommended serving temperature of 12 to 13 degrees.

Perhaps my favourite white here was the Jurançon Sec La Part Davant 2015 by Cavin Larredya, a blend of Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Petit Courbou. Peach aromas, but also floral, continued on the velvety palate all the way to a long and satisfying finish.

Then I moved from the south west foothills to the Rhone for the first of reds: Domaine des Lises Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage 2016. a delicious Syrah, ripe black fruit and lingering finish.

From there it was Burgundy and Pinot Noir all the way, starting with Les Tilles 2014 by Domaine Jacques Cacheux, a striking amalgam of red berry fruit and then a long finish. “Drink now or in another year,” advised Jérémy.

Soon he was pouring the Domaine Raquillet Mercurey Vieilles Vignes 2016. Not too much to say here: beautiful fruit, beautiful body, beautiful finish.

Back a year now to the Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Boutiere 2015 by Domaine Bachelet Monnot. This is a classic Burgundy with expressive aromas, great depth and texture, fresh acidity and so very well balanced, superb finish as well.

Hard to beat that but Nomad had just the ticket: the biodynamically produced Vosne-Romanée Les Chalandins 2014 by Domaine Jacques Cacheux. Dark fruits on the nose, elegant and silky, complex, one sip to paradise. Great way to end my “visit” to Nomad!

Many of the Nomad wines are available via SIYPS online.

Last week, one hundred bottles of “wine without make-up” were up for tasting in the River Lee Hotel thanks to the combined efforts of four Dublin wine companies. Spit, as it as the combination is called, consists of Winemason, Nomad Wine, Vinostito, and Grapecircus and virtually all the wines were organic. And there wasn't a dud among them. To read our account of the Vinostito stand, please click here . Also at Spit Cork Winemason and Grapecircus.

Vinostito at Spit Cork! No Motor Bike and Wine Without Make-Up.

Vinostito at Spit Cork!

No Motor Bike. Wine Without Make-Up.

Antonio Lorente may have left his motor bike in Dublin but he and Vinostito partner Rafa Salazar made it to Cork for the Spit Tasting yesterday in the River Lee Hotel. Naturally enough, the company is know for its strong Spanish focus but over the last four years or more have begun to add wines from other countries to their portfolio. We love wine, they say, and good wine knows no borders. Not all Rioja wines, for instance, are contained within the administrative area of La Rioja.

I am surprised to see the Basque Txakoli wine, with its high acidity, on restaurant lists here and asked Antonio if it was a hard sell on the Irish market. “It was, at the start,” he said. “But now it is more accepted, it is very good for vegetable dishes and spicy food.” Would love to see an Irish server pouring it from shoulder hight into a tumbler by his waist as they do in Hondarribia and other Basque towns!

Sometimes, for whatever reason, a good wine doesn't take off in the market. We asked him if he thought any of their whites were under-appreciated. He pointed to the Bodegas Contreras Ruiz Edalo 2017 from Condado de Huelva. The grape variety here is the little known Zalema and the wine is very fresh, light and fruity. Very drinkable indeed. That reminds me I have a nephew living in Huelva - I may well be sending him a request before his next visit home.

Yours truly with Andrew (from Manning's, Ballylickey). Pic by Rafa!

Xarel-lo, used mostly in Cava and “seldom seen as a still wine”, was the next grape to explore, thanks to Cellar Pardas Rupestris 2016. This blend of Xarel-lo, Malvasia de Sidges and red Xarel-lo, is produced biodynamically and, like the Edalo, it is fresh and also excellent.

Had a short list of Vinostito reds to taste but that expanded - I wonder why! First I was interested in the Casa de Passarella A Descoberta, Colheita Tinto 2014. This blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Alfrcheiro, and Jaen, from Portugal’s DÃO, had a vivid colour and aromas, great fruit, lovely balance, long finish, quite a charmer all round.

On to the Douro then and Xisto iLimitado Tinto 2015 by Luis Seabra, another excellent red, this produced from a blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Malvasia Preta and Dozelinho. No wonder the supermarket go mad when trying to get all that onto the label. This wine from the Douro though is well worth it!

Now for another of the wines without make-up - forget where I read that but its certainly applies to Filipa Pato Tinto 2017 and to many of the wines here, most of them organic or close to it. Full bodied, black fruit, velvety tannins and acidity all in comfortable alignment. Amazing.

I’d have been happy to stop there and move on to another table but then I spotted the familiar netting and read the label: Rafael Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva 2005. I had visited tis bodega in Haro and was hooked; glad to be hooked by this brilliant wine and there were similar comments to the left and to the right of me.

If you ever do get the chance, buy (as many as you can) of the amazing aged whites from their Riojan winery. They also do an aged Rosé but only when the year is good, so the supply is scarce. Antonio told me they had managed to get some but alas they were quickly snapped up!

And still one more irresistible temptation from this area, the 2010 Remelluri Reserva, a Rioja Alavesa blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano. Smooth. Spicy. Superb. We hadn’t worked Rafa much but we had him on camera duty before we said goodbye to Vinostito.

Read about
Nomad Wines at Spit here
Grapecircus here
Winemason here

More on Spit Cork over the next few days. Nomad Wines, The WineMasons and Grapecircus were the other companies involved in the event at The River Lee Hotel.

Taste of the Week. Killahora Rare Apple Ice-Wine

Taste of the Week

Killahora Rare Apple Ice-Wine

Barry (left) and Dave
show their amazing ice wine.

This superb drink, particularly with its aromas and finish, speaks very much of the orchard, maybe even a touch of warm apple tart. Mostly, there is on the palate a well-balanced tension between the dry and the sweet, a sweetness that is not at all sticky. “A bittersweet symphony,” they say themselves. Not a bad summing up of our Taste of the Week.

There was a lot of love expressed for it on Twitter when it made its public debut recently. One enthusiast was so impressed that she cancelled her standing order for importing Canadian Ice Wine!

How do they make it? The juice of their rare apples (114 varieties growing here on south facing slopes) is concentrated using freezing temperatures and slowly thawed. The resulting beautiful deep and rich must is slowly fermented for a year and stopped before completion, leaving half of the apple sugars intact…nothing is added, so the abv is a low 10.8%.

I came across this a few months back as a matching drink for the superb cheese menu at SpitJack. Beautiful and rich, it was perfect with the cheeses that we had and with the Ardsallagh Ash Pyramid in particular. More recently, I got the same magnificent result with the St Tola Ash Log, the two premium products mutually enhancing.

And where is Killahora? You might well ask. If you are lucky enough to get a bottle of the Ice Wine you’ll see a corner of an ordnance survey map from 1837 showing an orchard here on these warm slopes close to the village of Glounthaune just east of Cork City. Well over a hundred types of rare apples growing here now and it is here too that the bittersweet cider Johnny Fall Down is produced.

Killahora Orchard  

Killahora

Glounthaune

Co.Cork

PHONE 021 486 8177

EMAIL info@johnnyfalldown.ie

A Low ABV Can Session

A Low ABV Can Session 

Cloudwater Small Citra Ekuanot Pale Ale, 2.9%, 

440 ml can, Bradley’s of Cork

This cloudy yellow Pale Ale may be low in alcohol but it is certainly well up to speed on the hop side with the Pilgrim Alpha doing the bittering business. No shortage of flavour either. It is packed with eight malts and the two hops in the name also figure. You’ll also note a touch of clove on the nose.

Important info on the attractive label includes the message that hops fade fast - fresher is better. Cloudwater are a Manchester based brewery who specialise in modern seasonal beer. Certainly worth exploring. Dry hop intensity is 12 g/l, a stat I haven’t seen featured elsewhere.

Ballast Point Mango Even Keel Session IPA, 3.8%, 355 ml can, Bradley’s of Cork

The Ballast Point Brewery is based in San Diego (USA) and was started in 1996 by friends who were home brewers.

This is a bright and light yellow in the glass with fruit and hop aromas. Fruit (the mango prominent) and hops too on the palate. Pleasant and easy-drinking, had me thinking (wishing) of summer-time in the back-garden. Food pairings suggestions include ceviche and Stilton Cheese - interesting. IBUs = 40.

Five Points Pale, 4.4%, 330 ml can, 

Bradley’s of Cork

London brewery Five Points have added American hops to their British Maris thus “combining our real ale tradition with New World sensibilities”. The combination is quite a success

I first came across this clear and bright  beer at a Five Point tasting in the Abbot Ale House, here in Cork. Francesca Slattery, the company’s Ireland Account Manager, told us that they spent six months developing this. “We had to get it right. It should be our backbone.” They got it right and it now accounts for 60% of their total sales.

It is fresh and modern and aromatic, easy drinking and perfect for any occasion. Perfect is a good word for the beer itself which features Amarillo and Citra hops.

Five Points XPA 4.00%, 330 ml can, Bradley’s of Cork

Pale of colour and a little shy in the aromas. But the palate is not at all timid, a terrific combination of malted barley, malted oats and the Citra (US) and Galaxy (Australia) hops.

No wonder it was retained by the brewery after the reason for its first production, the celebration of a local music festival, had long passed. It is bitter upfront but with a sweeter finish and the Golden Naked Oats help give it a nice mouthful. Easy to enjoy a few of these at a session. Or at a music festival!

Dining and Staying in Killarney’s Brehon Hotel

Jack McCarthy's Blackpudding Bon Bons

Dine and Stay in Killarney’s Brehon Hotel

Spiced salmon

The Brehon Hotel on the Muckross Road was our base for a recent two night stay in Killarney. Dinner at Danú, the hotel’s restaurant, was included and it was a good one. It was a set menu, part of the package, so not A La Carte. Still, we had three or four choices in each section.

A familiar name, ex Taoiseach Bertie Aherne, was at an nearby table and another familiar name, Jack McCarthy, popped up in the starters. His Black Pudding Bon Bons came with a mango sauce, nasturtium salad and red onion. CL enjoyed that well cooked, well presented dish. I got off to a flier too with my Spiced Salmon, Yuzu yogurt, pear, lime and cucumber.

Hake

It is a very comfortable split-level room, divided in various sections, and service was pretty good all through. No delay at all and soon we were on to the mains. My pick was the Mushroom Ravioli with a wild mushroom sauce. Not bad at all and we both enjoyed a nice side of vegetables. CL probably had the better of the mains with her Pan-fried Hake with pickled carrot, sage and lemon crumble.

Mushroom Ravioli

Desserts were part of the deal and we enjoyed their Cranberry Crème Brulée (with vanilla ice-cream and biscotti) and Roasted plum (with vanilla ice-cream, pepper and almond salsa).

Dropped into the bar, more a food than a drink venue, after that and saw for ourselves the very limited choice (Guinness associated) of beers on draught. Still, the Killarney blonde proved good company. On the second evening, I spotted an old friend, Bertha’s Revenge gin, and passed a late hour sipping that delicious drop (€17.20 for 2 gins and one TH tonic).

Crème Brulée 

While the hotel looked a bit gothic on the outside in the dull wet weather, like us all it will brighten up as the Spring comes in bringing green life to the creepers that will partially cover the exterior. The interior, with its soaring foyer, is eye-catching. Rooms are comfortable and have all the facilities you’ll need. Service is excellent and you’ll get lots of smiles and hellos in the corridors and public spaces as you come and go.

Plum

They also serve their breakfast in the Danú. The buffet is the main feature with hot and cold sections and plenty of choice. One thing about the buffet is that you can pick and choose and limit the size of your Full Irish! Extend it too of course if you are so inclined at that hour of the morning! 

We picked from the buffet (as most people seem to do) on the first morning and chose from the Kitchen List on the second. The list includes familiar breakfast items such as porridge and Eggs Benedict, less familiar like minute steak, but my choice was the plaice, the very tasty fish of the day, and I was off to a good start!

See also
Quinlan's Seafood Bar Killarney
Celtic Whiskey Bar and Larder
Visiting Killarney's Big Houses
The Yew Tree at The Muckross Park Hotel
36 Hours in Killarney, inc Killarney Brewing

Richy’s Restaurant. Sixteen Years In Clon - Getting Better All The Time.

Richy’s Restaurant. 

Sixteen Years In Clon - Getting Better All The Time.

Warm chicken salad

Richy’s Restaurant is celebrating sixteen years in Clonakilty and is better than ever. Richy is an outstanding chef and the whole enterprise, the original restaurant and the newer R Cafe, is amazing. Here you can eat well all day long, every day of the week, and virtually everything on the menu is based on local produce. 

Here too you can learn about food. Richy is passionate about local produce, about sustainability, a campaigner against obesity and his food and classes reflect these concerns. A four evening course on Healthy Eating (with chef Matt Williamson) starts on April 24th details here. 

Renowned West Cork smoker Sally Barnes
is one of Richy's suppliers

But back to our lunch, the purpose of our recent visit. We had a good look at the menu, one page of which is given over to a list of local producers, some of them just a few yards away from the Wolfe Tone premises but virtually all of them from the general West Cork area, including familiar names such as Toonsbridge, Shannonvale, Clonakilty Black Pudding, Sally Barnes Smokery, Gubbeen and Milleens.

Quite a choice on the menu, including lots of pizzas from their own oven. Salads too, fishcakes, lasagna, a beef burger and a vegetarian burger and more. And then check the board for the specials. Here we saw a Monkfish and Bean Stew, Union Hall salmon with mash and veg, Seafood chilli pasta with the option of adding scallops, and a Pork Burger with apple purée and chips. 

And one (I had this on a previous visit) that you must consider is the Mauritian Beef Curry! A range of dishes and a range of prices too and family friendly as well with a special kids menu.

Frittata

My pick was the Warm Salad of Grilled Chicken with Gubbeen bacon and avocado, cherry tomatoes and baby leaves (11.95). Full of textures and flavours and those leaves were so fresh and well-dressed, a delightful lunch for a coolish spring day but one that could be just as satisfying in summer and winter.

CL meanwhile was making pleasurable progress with her Cauliflower, garlic, potato and red onion frittata, also with local leaves (8.95 small, 11.50 large). “Faultless,” she reported. “Salad was lovely too, the cauliflower a delicious ingredient, and the few halved olives gave a tarty bite as well.” So there you are, two happy customers and we went on to share a pot of tea after that.

After settling the bill in this bright and airy room we asked to say hello to the man himself in the adjoining white-walled restaurant. As our chat progressed, he told us how things have changed in the evening menu here, with a page now devoted to tapas (small plates, ranging in  price from 4.95 to 15.00). 

Local supplier

You may still have plenty of meat (48 hour Jacob’s Ladder, Slaney Valley Rack of Lamb, Carrigfadda Farm Shoulder of Pork, and Dexter Burger). Seafood too features in the list of mains, including a Roast fillet of Monkfish, a West Cork Fish Bake, Seared Beara Scallops, and a mega seafood plate with Lobster, prawn, crab and scallops. Indeed, reading the menu details, you realise you are in a really top notch restaurant.

So back to the Tapas, divided into meat and fish ones and also an equally long Veggie section. How about Panko Soft Shell Crabs with spiced tomato relish? Anyone for Clonakilty Black Pudding samosas with vegetable achard. Maybe Fillet of Beef medallions with rosemary potatoes? On the Veggie List, you’ll want those Spiced Lentils with spinach and Macroom halloumi. Would you prefer the Tipperary goats cheese balls, with cranberry relish and leaves? Reckon you've got the picture by now. Better to call down though and check out the real thing for yourself.

Killarney's Big Houses. Muckross House and recently renovated Killarney House

Killarney's Big Houses

Muckross House and recently renovated Killarney House

Muckross House

It has been decades since I visited Muckross House. With the rain coming down, it proved a handy stand-by during a recent 36 hour visit to Killarney. Nowadays, you may visit only by guided tour and no photos are allowed. That tour starts in the stables of the house built in 1843. In the entrance hall, there are many animal heads on the wall, the most striking mounting that of the antlers of an ancient elk. Note too the unusual Albino Hooded Crow.

The Dining Room, in the Victorian style, still has the original curtains made in Paris in 1861. Not too sure what they had on the windows from 1843 - no one thought to ask our guide. The outstanding piece in the Library is a table made of local Arbutus timber with many Killarney landmarks engraved on it while the drawing room sports a 1910 Killybegs carpet.

There are many exhibits in all of the rooms so I'm just giving you a few that caught my eye. In the Main Hall, used mostly for banqueting and dancing, there are a few local brown trout mounted and displayed; most of them are around the 6 to 7 kilo mark, quite large.

Killarney House and part of the rose garden

In 1861, Queen Victoria visited the Herbert family at Muckross and took over the Billiards Room (up to then Men Only!) as her breakfast and dining room. Indeed, the visit was disruptive in other ways as it cost the Herberts a small fortune and led, among other factors, to their bankruptcy. Eventually the estate was sold and the final private owners were the Bourn Vincent family and it was they who left it to the state.

One of the house’s biggest mirrors is seen upstairs and it is made of old English crystal. There are many Waterford glass chandeliers around the house. We were taken through the Gentlemen's Wash Room, next the main bedroom (with its view of the Middle Lake) and then what became the main bathroom (with the taps on the outside of the bath itself).

After the nursery area, we were shown the gallery where the vast majority of the paintings are by Mary Herbert. One striking exception is “Emily” painted by none other than John Butler Yeats, the father of of WB and Jack B.

In the gardens of Muckross

The Lady's Boudoir was one of a suite of rooms used by Victoria (and her 100 strong entourage) during her visit. Here the ladies of the house normally occupied themselves with flower arranging, music and writing. The writing desk was a gift for the English queen but she left it behind her.

Then our final stop was the Kitchen area. Lots of gear here, everything from the huge range to a much smaller ice-cream churner. The servants hardly got a moment to the themselves. There were 22 indoor servants in the house and upstairs there were no less than 32 bell-pulls in various rooms to ring the 32 bells downstairs to summon a servant to duty.

Killarney House

Tours at Killarney House are of a much more recent vintage, much shorter too as the house, renovated in recent years and opened to the public last July, has just three rooms to show at the moment. This is, according to the guide, the third Killarney House. The first, nearby where the Plaza Hotel now is, was left in favour of the second (where Knockreer House now stands), which burned down in 1913. 

The family, the Brownes, dominant in the area for 400 years, then moved to the current building, their former stables! In the 1950s, John McShane, “the Man who built Washington”, bought the house and, in 1979, handed it over to the Irish government. As is often the case in these situations, the house was allowed deteriorate before the recent renovation.

The tour is free and short and again no photos are allowed. You are also free to roam around the acres outfront, including the beautiful rose gardens. Furniture rescued from the 1913 fire is featured around the house where once the likes of Gloria Swanson, Rock Hudson, and Grace Kelly were entertained. Here too you’ll see a beautiful 19th century fireplace and French grandfather clock. Splendid views also out over the grounds down to the lakes.The living room contains some 3,000 books in its library, some of which are hundreds of years old.

Renovation continues in the upstairs section and that will eventually contain an interactive guide to the National Park, all 26,000 acres of it. By the way, a quarter of the area is taken up by the famous lakes.

See also
Quinlan's Seafood Bar Killarney
Celtic Whiskey Bar and Larder
Dine and Stay at The Brehon Hotel Killarney
The Yew Tree at The Muckross Park Hotel
36 Hours in Killarney, inc Killarney Brewing