On the craft trail with Dew Drop and Dungarvan Brewing. Supporting local brewers every week

On the craft trail with Dew Drop 

and Dungarvan Brewing 

Supporting local brewers every week

Dew Drop No Fury Helles Lager, 4.2% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

“Our homage to classic Munich Helles style”

A terrific golden colour is on this one, with a soft white head and a myriad of micro-bubbles crowding upwards through the clear body. Malt, a sweet note, features in the aromatics.  On the palate, the lively lager is crisp and loaded with flavour, and that continues through to a deeply refreshing finish. Very Highly Recommended

They say: We have used Slovenian hop “Aurora” in our lager instead of the traditional German hops, imparting a unique flavour profile to our beer. It comes in at 4.2% ABV. Our Helles style Lager is made the traditional way and is lagered for 3 weeks, which means storing the beer in cold temperatures to condition and clear it.

Ronan Kinsella and Paul Lenehan took over the Dew Drop Inn in Kill in 2007. They also own and operate Hartes of Kildare in Kildare Town, The Ballymore Inn in Ballymore Eustace, and Firecastle Artisan Grocers & Café in Kildare Town.

The brewery was established later, and by 2018, operations had begun, albeit cautiously. Since September 2019, they have been brewing beer for the local community. "Our sole aim is to produce premium quality local beer at affordable prices for the customers of our gastropubs and the patrons of Firecastle. We are always striving for improvement, and under the direction of Head Brewer Dean Maguire, we will continue to produce our core products while also introducing more seasonal and interesting beers for everyone to enjoy."

Dungarvan Copper Coast Irish Red Ale, 4.3% ABV

“Smooth fruity notes”

I’ve been drinking this rather splendid red ale on and off since 2012. It can be relied on as a versatile food beer, and back in those days, I enjoyed it in restaurants as diverse as Cornstore (Cork), Wild Honey (Clare) and Farmgate (Midleton). The brewery themselves say it is perfect for most meat and game dishes (grilled or caramelised). I remember enjoying it with a non-meat dish, a  Warm Goat's Cheese with poached fig, red pepper and tomato compote, and the result was perfectly delectable. 

It comes in a warm red/amber colour and a slightly off-white foamy crown, plus bubbles of galore rising on the top. Its smooth, fruity notes are highlighted and rightly so. Credit here goes to the Crystal Malt, which endows it with a “delightful caramel character” and a toasty note. 

Thanks to the Northern Brewers hops, initially from the north of England and known for its bittering character, and to the other hop, the excellent all-rounder Challenger (a “relation of the Northern), we have a well-balanced ale that is both flavourful and refreshing. And Very Highly Recommended.

Serving notes

The suggested serving temperature is ‘cellar temperature’ of about 8-14°C, but this comes down to personal choice – if you prefer it cooler or warmer, then go for it!   

As with all the Dungarvan beers, the bottles will contain yeast sediment, which is a by-product of the bottle conditioning process. This sediment is completely harmless and acceptable to drink, but if you prefer a clearer beer, leave the last drop in the bottle. 

White Smoke! Ummera Returns. Happy Days!

 White Smoke! Ummera Returns. Happy Days!

Ummera Yum Yum

Delighted to hear the good news from Ummera’s Anthony Cresswell!

Here’s a big announcement… WE’RE BACK!!!

"After some months out of production, it is thrilling to tell you that we will soon be producing your favourite smoked goods once more!

I am delighted to announce that our wonderful Production Manager, Sorin, who has been central to the business for the last number of years, will be taking over the company alongside his wife, Inna. I have great faith in their ability to continue to provide the same high standards you all expect from Ummera Smoke House. With Sorin’s dominion over brine and flame and Inna’s grace and charm, I couldn’t think of a better pair for the job.

Those of you who have paid us a visit at the Smokehouse will recall my very short commute to work and, while I begin to occupy myself with fishing, reading and the occasional jigsaw(!), I imagine my family will be hard tasked to keep me away from the excitement that Sorin and Inna create! Passing the baton down to a younger generation can be tough but I feel at ease knowing that Sorin is truly a part of the Ummera Smokehouse family, with a good grasp on tradition and the joie de vivre for innovation and freshness that is necessary for such a business.

He will continue to produce our well-known and prize winning classics: Smoked Organic Salmon, Smoked Chicken, Smoked Bacon, Smoked Silverhill Duck, Gravadlax and Smoked Organic Picanha Beef. I am glad that they have not been kept off the shelves and out of your fridges for too long.

They will be available to order online from 21st May 2025 for collection or delivery after Monday, 26th May. We will keep you informed regarding retail outlets, suppliers, restaurants, etc. I know that I myself cannot wait to tuck right back into them!"

Our contact information:

Sorin and Inna Cernelea
Email: info@ummera.com
Website: www.ummera.com;
Contact phone number:  023 8846644 or mobile phone: 085 7481179

"It has been the greatest part of the job to meet and interact with you all over the years be it at Farmers Markets, on food tours, in restaurants and shops, or just on my weekly rounds. Your love for our products is what has kept my love for this job burning strong nearly four decades on (and has led to such interesting developments as smoked water, something my daughters still laugh about ten years later!). I can only hope you will offer Sorin and Inna the same support you have shown me over the last 40+ years.

Thank you all so much for your support over the years. Inna and Sorin will in touch soon.

"Anthony

ORSO's new menu promises exceptional meals. And delivers!

ORSO's new menu promises exceptional meals. And delivers!

Lamb shank with Harissa and Tzatziki, to the left

"A relaxed family holiday on France's sun-drenched west coast. The memory? A tiny riverside stall, the best couscous in town (if you got there before the inevitable sell-out), and a stallholder's almost comical obsession with the potent harissa he'd portion out for our cous cous royale – a glorious mix of lamb, chicken, and spicy merguez.

"C'est très fort!" he'd declare, brandishing the minuscule tube.  My “I understand”, spoken in French, never reassured him. Cue the slightly mortified teenage son, pressed into service to issue the same warning in his best English. 

  

Orso Kitchen & Bar won the Best Employer Food and Drink Award at Fáilte Ireland’s Employer Excellence Awards 2025. Pictured at the ceremony, from left, Michelle Daniel and Hannes Von Derfecht, Orso Kitchen & Bar, and Paul Kelly, CEO Fáilte Ireland. Pic: Eamon Ward

Despite the dire pronouncements, we quickly adapted to the harissa's fiery charm. That summer flashed back the other evening at the marvellous ORSO as I anticipated my Slow-Cooked Lamb Shank, nestled amongst pearl couscous, raisins, a vibrant red harissa, Tzatziki, salty Feta, and sweet pomegranate. Harissa promises a kick but often its heat mellows within the embrace of a dish.

Here, it, and all their other spices (mostly from Mr Bells), are judiciously handled and used to enhance the flavours rather than add heat. That was the case with the splendid lamb dish. In this case, the spice was balanced by the use of the cooling Tzatziki. It's quite a dish and very highly recommended.

Seafood Ciopinno

Indeed, ORSO’s new menu is highly recommended. The infectious enthusiasm and friendly service draw you in. Very comfortable seating, including some at the counter, is available. The restaurant is in the dead centre of the city and is so easy to get to. Also, the website is up to date, and at https://www.orso.ie/, you can check out the menus and opening times.

The Ciopinno is a must-try!

Pale Ale

Our other main dish was Seafood Ciopinno: monkfish, mussels, smoked haddock, tomato and prawn bisque, brown rice. This Italian dish is basically one of the most delicious fish stews you’ll come across. Another flavourful beauty from ORSO Head Chef Hannis Von Der Fecht and his team.

My starter, Grilled Halloumi, sunchoke syrup, and pea shoot salad, one of their vegetarian options, was a gem. There was no major spice here from the Magreb or the Levant, just a marvellous little salad from the Churchfield Community Garden—ORSO are great supporters of local producers.

CL, meanwhile, was enjoying her pan-seared prawns with chilli-brown Butter, Dukkah, and Fresh Bread. And they mean it when they say fresh, as the breads are baked to order (on their in-store stone oven upstairs—you can hardly get more local than that). Unless, of course, you choose the Elbow Lane beers with your meal. And we found the Jawbone Pale Ale as satisfying as ever.

We finished on a high note, sharing the Pear Tatin, with Toffee sauce and Whipped cream.

Halloumi starter

Next time in Orso

Next time in Orso, I’ll try the Lamb Kofta, Tzatziki, Corian­der, Pick­led Red Onion, and Fresh Bread, for starters. Then on to the Fish of the Day: whole fish (it was bream the other night) lightly spiced, Cucum­ber, fen­nel, pome­gran­ate and a salted seed gra­nola salad before again ending on a sweet note with ORSO Tiramisu with Irish Cream Liqueur, Espresso and Pistachio Cream (and perhaps a glass of Joe’s Amaretto). Looking forward to it already!

As I mentioned earlier, ORSO (and indeed the whole Market Lane group), are terrific supporters of local. Current producers and suppliers include:

Caherbeg Meats, Chicken Inn and Tom Durcan for meats; Ballycotton Seafood and K. O’Connell for fish; Chuchfield Community Gardens and Singing Frog Gardens (salad and veg), Toonsbridge (Cheese), and Mr Bells for spices and seasonings.

Prawns starter

Pear Tatin

Not just one-way traffic. For instance, the spent grain from their Elbow Lane Brewery finds its way to the Allshires in Rosscarbery, where Avril feeds it to their herd of pigs. Cocktail syrups are homemade using fresh flowers from our local growers. They are always thinking of sustainability here. For example, the water glasses and water cafafes are made from recycled wine bottles and the menus are printed on recycled paper. All this and excellent food and service as well.

The Pembroke Street venue opens for both lunch and dinner and you may find more info on times and menus here.

Dozens of current restaurant reviews here.

#invite

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Famille Fabre Grande Courtade Pinot Noir - moving away from ‘traditional’ expressions

Famille Fabre Grande Courtade Pinot Noir Vin du Pays D’Oc 2023, 13.5% ABV

€17.00 at Matson Wine Stores (Bandon, Grange, Youghal).

“We are moving away from ‘traditional’ expressions”

Pinot Noir is often considered a cool-climate wine, typically associated with regions like Burgundy, Oregon, Germany and New Zealand’s South Island. However, our Grande Courtade stands out as an exception. The grapes for this wine are sourced from the warmer vineyards of Languedoc, specifically around the larger towns of Narbonne and Béziers. Despite its origin in the hot Midi, this wine, crafted by the esteemed Fabre family, is Highly Recommended, even if it doesn’t quite match the depth of its cold climate counterparts.

The wine is typically light ruby in colour. The aroma is predominantly fruity, especially with notes of cherry, and there is a subtle hint of smoky peat. The palate reflects these characteristics as well, with the cherries being prominent again and a touch of pepper. Its vibrant acidity and soft tannins contribute to a smooth and elegant finish that lingers pleasantly.

They say: “The woody touch (some of the juice spends a few months in oak) we add during ageing gives it …smoky, almost peaty notes. We are moving away from ‘traditional’ expressions and freeing ourselves from them by joining the Vin de France in this cuvée.” So no AOC on the label, but this “outlier” is a good one, well priced also.

Overall, it is a versatile asset at the table and pairs well with a variety of dishes, including roasted poultry, grilled vegetables, and soft cheeses. The winemakers themselves suggest pairing it with beef tartare and a serving temperature of 14°-16°C.

ANOTHER DOUBLE WIN FOR CORK’S MARKET LANE GROUP AT FAILTE IRELAND EMPLOYER EXCELLENCE AWARDS 2025

ANOTHER DOUBLE WIN FOR CORK’S MARKET LANE GROUP AT FAILTE IRELAND EMPLOYER EXCELLENCE AWARDS 2025

L to R:  Michelle Daniel, Head Office Co-Ordinator, Market Lane Group and Conrad Howard, co-owner, Market Lane Group with Fáilte Ireland CEO Paul Kelly (right)

Cork’s progressive Market Lane Group of Restaurants has taken two of the top gongs at The Fáilte Ireland Employer Excellence Awards 2024, which were announced last night. 

ORSO restaurant took the Award for Best Employer Food & Drink in Ireland and Goldie restaurant took the Award for Best Employer in Ireland’s Ancient East for the 2^nd year in a row.  The group also comprises Market Lane, Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery and The Castle Café, Blackrock. 

The Awards celebrate and spotlight Ireland's exceptional employers in tourism and they play an important role in highlighting the hardworking individuals and organizations that are committed to great employee engagement.  Aspiring to and maintaining high business standards are key to Ireland’s tourism offering, and these awards help attract employees into the tourism industry and to provide them with fulfilling, life-long careers. 

“We are honoured to have won at these Awards,” says Michelle Daniel, head office co-ordinator at the Market Lane Restaurant Group.  “Our team is everything,” she said.  “They are the very heart of everything we do.

“Empowering our colleagues with knowledge and skills, and trusting in their abilities are the essential ingredients in creating the warm, friendly, delicious experience that is at the core of the Market Lane Group’s dining ethos.” She adds.

“This recognition also helps us stand out as employers of choice in the increasingly competitive hospitality talent market.  It also comes at our peak recruitment period for the group, which is perfect timing! “

Since the group has engaged with the Failte Ireland Employer Excellence Programme it has achieved a higher retention rate and a significant reduction in the number of vacancies. "The volume and standard of job applications has also increased” adds Daniel "as well as the number of employee referrals." 

These results have engendered a stronger cultural stance within the company which has, in turn, strengthened the recruitment team’s conviction and assessment processes when choosing candidates who are the right fit for the company. 

“We have also had a much greater engagement by staff members in our ambitious environmental policies, staff training programmes and advancement opportunities at all levels.  This adds to employee skill sets, which raises standards across the board. We are understandably delighted that we started on this journey with Failte Ireland" concludes Daniel. 

The company was accredited a Great Place to Work in 2024 and 2025 and earlier in the year was listed in Ireland’s Best Workplaces 2025. 

Niepoort Sempar Tinto Alantejo Portalegre. “A vibrant and juicy glass of red.”

Niepoort Sempar Tinto Alantejo Portalegre (DOC) 2019, 13.5% ABV

€19.95 at Bradleys

“A vibrant and juicy glass of red.”

 

This red is a blend, as are many of the red wines from Portugal. While it has generous fruit and body, it is not at all complicated—quite an easy drinker, in fact. 

It is light ruby in colour with impressive fresh red berry aromatics. The palate is also fruity, with darker fruit now (such as cherry and plum), and there’s a lively acidity. Rounded and engaging, it finishes very well indeed. Highly Recommended. Get a few bottles in for the barbecues ahead.

“Sempar” signifies “unequalled,” “unique,” and “incomparable”—a name that encapsulates Dirk Niepoort’s wine philosophy. He strives to produce straightforward wines that fully express the character of their vineyard origins. Dirk has a deep appreciation for the region around Portalegre, a sub-region in Alentejo. He unleashes his creativity to craft light and bold Alentejo wines brimming with individuality.

“Niepoort? Is he one of the famous Port family?” you may well ask.  Indeed, he is and was highly instrumental in the firm’s move into making still wines. He was soon a very influential winemaker in the Douro region (where Port comes from) before turning his attention southwards to the Alentejo region.

Close-up of the bark of the cork tree (Quercus suber) that
you can see in Fota Gardens, East Cork

While much of the region is planted to vines, there is still room to grow the thick-barked Quercus suber trees for which Portugal is so famous. These are the sprawling oak trees from which cork is made. Other oak varieties are Alba (the American white oak) and Robur, the European version. The Irish tree Quercus Petrea is also known as Sessile Oak and is used locally by whiskey makers such as Midleton and Donegal’s Crolly Distillery.

The sprawling Quercus suber tree in the arboretum at Fota.

Flawless meal at CUSH Midleton

 Flawless meal at CUSH Midleton

You walk in from the street to the little courtyard and, just past the colourful vintage shop, you see the new sign, CUSH, where the much-loved Sage used to be. Not just CUSH but CUSH Midleton, as the Ballycotton restaurant has transferred its Michelin Bib operation from the fishing harbour to the capital of East Cork. 

And then you notice - not as prominent as the characters of the name -  the four minimalist line-drawn symbols. They stand for the four seasons, for Dan Guerin’s menus reflect the seasons, and also the best that East Cork has to offer, with bountiful produce sourced from neighbouring farms and fresh fish from the nearby ocean to tell the story of that time of year, a synergy that, with Guerin’s kitchen expertise, lifts dish after dish to well above the ordinary, making for memorable dining visits.

The symbols, from top:
Spring, Summer,
Autumn, Winter

Walk past the sign and the burgeoning greenery on both sides of the warmly toned tiled pathway. Go around the corner, and you see the new blue of the building and (hopefully) the blue of the sky. Your evening begins with a warm welcome, and soon, you are at your table with the short menu and those symbols again!

We were in early (5.00 pm) in midweek and were given the Early Bird menu; the A La Carte (Tasting) menu isn’t available until about 90 minutes later.  Front of house maestro James Walsh will guide you through your menu.

Hake supreme

On the Early Bird, you have two starters and two mains (four of each on the A La Carte). We had both starters: Warm Natural Smoked Haddock, Potato Velouté, Crispy Hen’s Egg, and the Ballinrostig cheese agnolotti and Cevenne onion soup, two superb dishes. Each was outstanding. I had the agnolotti (cheese-filled pasta squares), and that onion soup begged to be spooned up, as did CL’s velouté.

CL’s Mains, one that she heartily recommends, was the Roast breast of Irish chicken, chanterelle mushrooms (Maitake were listed but on-the-ball James had tipped us off about the change), cauliflower cheese croquette, and Madeira sauce.

Chicken

Picpoul

 

My pick was the Grilled fillet of hake, new season spring greens, gnocchi, and dulse seaweed butter. Possibly the best Hake I’ve ever tasted, enhanced by the asparagus and the seaweed butter. Even the humble gnocchi played a part. We had two sides included, a dish of perfectly cooked vegetables and a smooth as could be mashed potato.

Smoked Salted Caramel Tart 

The presentation was unfussy but elegant and tidy. That was the case with all the dishes, including the Smoked Salted Caramel Tart and Vanilla Ice Cream, our shared dessert, appetising to look at, the cut so precise, the balance of textures and flavours so flawless, and just perfect for the end of a perfect meal in a lovely room.    

Check the times and menus on their website here https://cush.ie/ 

‘The Renaissance of Irish Apple Brandy – A landmark Event Heralds a New Era in Irish Craft Spirits’

‘The Renaissance of Irish Apple Brandy – A landmark Event Heralds a New Era in Irish Craft Spirits’

A new chapter in Ireland’s rich drinks heritage was officially opened in Dublin last week at

The Renaissance of Irish Apple Brandy, a landmark event celebrating the birth of a new

drinks category: Irish Apple Brandy.

Proud Irish Apple Brandy Producers - The Apple Farm, Tipperary; Boann Distillery, Co.

Meath; Longueville House Distillery, Co. Cork; Orr Irish Apple Brandy, Co. Cork; and

Tipperary Boutique Distillery, Tipperary together hosted the first official launch of Irish Apple

Brandy and united in their mission to elevate Irish-grown apples into world-class apple

brandy expressions.

Distinguished members of the Irish food, drink and hospitality sector were treated to a

guided sampling of the four producers’ brandies under the expert guidance of renowned Irish

Food and Drinks Journalist and Founder of the Irish Food Writing Awards Suzanne Campbell

who mc’d the event.

Attendees were treated to a personal account of the origins and distillation process by the

Producers behind each Apple Brandy beginning with Cornelius Traas of the Apple Farm and

Jennifer Nickerson for their collaboration on ‘The 80’ Irish Apple Brandy, which recently won

the Silver Medal at the prestigious Berlin International Spirits Competition 2025.

This was followed by William O’Callaghan from Longueville House who spoke about the

legacy of Longueville House Irish Apple Brandy, which is made entirely on their own estate

from their own cider with their apples grown in their orchard in the Blackwater Valley Co.

Cork.

Quite a line-up!

Peter Cooney from Boann Distillery was up next with an exclusive sampling of Boann’s new

make Irish apple brandy spirit and a further tasting of their established 1848 Apple Brandy

which combines the best of France’s Calvados with Boann’s own triple-distilled Irish apple

brandy.

The event was rounded off with an introduction to the newly released Orr Irish Apple Brandy

by Diarmuid Madden. Orr Irish Apple Brandy is the most recent innovation from the team

behind the highly acclaimed and multi award winning Cork based Stonewell Cider and

Nohoval Apple Wines.

The event finished with a lively Q&A session where the valuable contribution of Irish Apple

Growers was highlighted by all Producers as an important and critical aspect of the Irish

drinks industry at a time when sustainability and traceability is key. This historic gathering

marked a pivotal moment for Irish Spirits – a renaissance not only in name, but in the

dedication to innovation and authenticity that defines Irish Apple Brandy.

www.orrbrandy.ie

www.boanndistillery.com

www.tipperarydistillery.ie

www.theapplefarm.com