ORSO's new menu promises exceptional meals. And delivers!

ORSO's new menu promises exceptional meals. And delivers!

Lamb shank with Harissa and Tzatziki, to the left

"A relaxed family holiday on France's sun-drenched west coast. The memory? A tiny riverside stall, the best couscous in town (if you got there before the inevitable sell-out), and a stallholder's almost comical obsession with the potent harissa he'd portion out for our cous cous royale – a glorious mix of lamb, chicken, and spicy merguez.

"C'est très fort!" he'd declare, brandishing the minuscule tube.  My “I understand”, spoken in French, never reassured him. Cue the slightly mortified teenage son, pressed into service to issue the same warning in his best English. 

  

Orso Kitchen & Bar won the Best Employer Food and Drink Award at Fáilte Ireland’s Employer Excellence Awards 2025. Pictured at the ceremony, from left, Michelle Daniel and Hannes Von Derfecht, Orso Kitchen & Bar, and Paul Kelly, CEO Fáilte Ireland. Pic: Eamon Ward

Despite the dire pronouncements, we quickly adapted to the harissa's fiery charm. That summer flashed back the other evening at the marvellous ORSO as I anticipated my Slow-Cooked Lamb Shank, nestled amongst pearl couscous, raisins, a vibrant red harissa, Tzatziki, salty Feta, and sweet pomegranate. Harissa promises a kick but often its heat mellows within the embrace of a dish.

Here, it, and all their other spices (mostly from Mr Bells), are judiciously handled and used to enhance the flavours rather than add heat. That was the case with the splendid lamb dish. In this case, the spice was balanced by the use of the cooling Tzatziki. It's quite a dish and very highly recommended.

Seafood Ciopinno

Indeed, ORSO’s new menu is highly recommended. The infectious enthusiasm and friendly service draw you in. Very comfortable seating, including some at the counter, is available. The restaurant is in the dead centre of the city and is so easy to get to. Also, the website is up to date, and at https://www.orso.ie/, you can check out the menus and opening times.

The Ciopinno is a must-try!

Pale Ale

Our other main dish was Seafood Ciopinno: monkfish, mussels, smoked haddock, tomato and prawn bisque, brown rice. This Italian dish is basically one of the most delicious fish stews you’ll come across. Another flavourful beauty from ORSO Head Chef Hannis Von Der Fecht and his team.

My starter, Grilled Halloumi, sunchoke syrup, and pea shoot salad, one of their vegetarian options, was a gem. There was no major spice here from the Magreb or the Levant, just a marvellous little salad from the Churchfield Community Garden—ORSO are great supporters of local producers.

CL, meanwhile, was enjoying her pan-seared prawns with chilli-brown Butter, Dukkah, and Fresh Bread. And they mean it when they say fresh, as the breads are baked to order (on their in-store stone oven upstairs—you can hardly get more local than that). Unless, of course, you choose the Elbow Lane beers with your meal. And we found the Jawbone Pale Ale as satisfying as ever.

We finished on a high note, sharing the Pear Tatin, with Toffee sauce and Whipped cream.

Halloumi starter

Next time in Orso

Next time in Orso, I’ll try the Lamb Kofta, Tzatziki, Corian­der, Pick­led Red Onion, and Fresh Bread, for starters. Then on to the Fish of the Day: whole fish (it was bream the other night) lightly spiced, Cucum­ber, fen­nel, pome­gran­ate and a salted seed gra­nola salad before again ending on a sweet note with ORSO Tiramisu with Irish Cream Liqueur, Espresso and Pistachio Cream (and perhaps a glass of Joe’s Amaretto). Looking forward to it already!

As I mentioned earlier, ORSO (and indeed the whole Market Lane group), are terrific supporters of local. Current producers and suppliers include:

Caherbeg Meats, Chicken Inn and Tom Durcan for meats; Ballycotton Seafood and K. O’Connell for fish; Chuchfield Community Gardens and Singing Frog Gardens (salad and veg), Toonsbridge (Cheese), and Mr Bells for spices and seasonings.

Prawns starter

Pear Tatin

Not just one-way traffic. For instance, the spent grain from their Elbow Lane Brewery finds its way to the Allshires in Rosscarbery, where Avril feeds it to their herd of pigs. Cocktail syrups are homemade using fresh flowers from our local growers. They are always thinking of sustainability here. For example, the water glasses and water cafafes are made from recycled wine bottles and the menus are printed on recycled paper. All this and excellent food and service as well.

The Pembroke Street venue opens for both lunch and dinner and you may find more info on times and menus here.

Dozens of current restaurant reviews here.

#invite

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