Les Deux Cols Alize. An elegant Côtes du Rhone. Versatile at the table

Les Deux Cols Alize Côtes du Rhone (AC) 2022, 13% ABV

€23.00 at Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal) 

An elegant Côtes du Rhone.  Versatile at the table

Made by an Irish run company in the Rhone Valley, this red has a mid to dark ruby robe. Aromas of ripe fruit are followed by a juicy and silky palate where the Grenache shines through with spice and a fresh acidity that enlivens the prolonged finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Importers Tindalls say Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah are the grapes here, and the label confirms that the Grenache Noir is the principal grape in the blend. Ninety-five per cent has been raised in the tank with 5% in demi-muid (demi-muid is a large oak barrel,  French oak in this case, and half the size of a muid). 

The Deux Cols story began in 2012 when two pals Charles Derain and Simon Tyrrell (then well-known as a cider maker in Ireland), set out to achieve a long-held ambition of becoming vignerons in the Rhône Valley. A few years later, Gerard Maguire joined them. Their organically farmed vineyards are aged between 30-70 years old and situated in the hills above the village of Saint Gervais in the northern part of the Gard. The altitude, sandy soils, surrounding forests and exposure to the Mistral* wind, help bring freshness to the grapes. 

The AOC wines are the perfect accompaniment to red meats, mature cheeses and Mediterranean dishes. Really well-priced, so no excuse not to get yourself a bottle and enjoy authentic Côtes du Rhône wine with duck breast, veal, lamb stews and hard or semi-hard cheeses. Versatile, isn't it?

* That Mistral, a regular feature here (Mont Ventoux means the windy mountain), was particularly nasty in 1956, blowing for three weeks with wind speeds reaching over 100kph and causing the temperature to drop as low as minus 15 degrees. The majority of the Rhone region’s olive trees suffered serious frost damage but the vines resisted so well that many olive farmers turned to vine cultivation.

Famille Fabre Grande Courtade Pinot Noir - moving away from ‘traditional’ expressions

Famille Fabre Grande Courtade Pinot Noir Vin du Pays D’Oc 2023, 13.5% ABV

€17.00 at Matson Wine Stores (Bandon, Grange, Youghal).

“We are moving away from ‘traditional’ expressions”

Pinot Noir is often considered a cool-climate wine, typically associated with regions like Burgundy, Oregon, Germany and New Zealand’s South Island. However, our Grande Courtade stands out as an exception. The grapes for this wine are sourced from the warmer vineyards of Languedoc, specifically around the larger towns of Narbonne and Béziers. Despite its origin in the hot Midi, this wine, crafted by the esteemed Fabre family, is Highly Recommended, even if it doesn’t quite match the depth of its cold climate counterparts.

The wine is typically light ruby in colour. The aroma is predominantly fruity, especially with notes of cherry, and there is a subtle hint of smoky peat. The palate reflects these characteristics as well, with the cherries being prominent again and a touch of pepper. Its vibrant acidity and soft tannins contribute to a smooth and elegant finish that lingers pleasantly.

They say: “The woody touch (some of the juice spends a few months in oak) we add during ageing gives it …smoky, almost peaty notes. We are moving away from ‘traditional’ expressions and freeing ourselves from them by joining the Vin de France in this cuvée.” So no AOC on the label, but this “outlier” is a good one, well priced also.

Overall, it is a versatile asset at the table and pairs well with a variety of dishes, including roasted poultry, grilled vegetables, and soft cheeses. The winemakers themselves suggest pairing it with beef tartare and a serving temperature of 14°-16°C.

Vin vivant, a living wine, "full of taste". Château Moulin De Peyronin Bordeaux.

Château Moulin De Peyronin Bordeaux (AC) 2021, 12.5% ABV

Sourced from Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal).

Widely available at €18.00 to €21.00

 

Vin vivant, living wine, "full of taste"

A smooth and supple wine from Bordeaux’s Chateau de Peyronin. The vineyard may be found in the Entre-Deux-Mers area, perhaps the most scenic of the entire Bordeaux vineyard. The aromatic wine is, as you’d expect, a blend (60% Merlot, 20% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon), and it is organic.

It is highly aromatic, packed with sensations of cherry, raspberry and blueberry. The same fruit and spicy elements also enliven the palate. A nice touch of acidity helps to balance it, and the finish is dry and lengthy. It is well-structured and a terrific match for red meats and many cheeses (including Gubbeen!). Serve at 17 degrees. Silky and fruit-driven, it is a wine that is heartily recommended.

The Château itself is a historic property, a lovely example of traditional French architecture often associated with wine estates and vineyards. It is also a popular location for wine tourism, where the “happy owners” offer guided tours, tastings, and the opportunity to explore the beautiful surroundings.

Owners Véronique and Franck, who had met while students at the local Lycée Agricole de Libourne-Montagne, began their adventure at Château Moulin de Peyronin in 2006. The two 25-year-olds now had over 14 ha of vines on their hands.  It had been managed organically since 1975. They continued on that road and went on to convert the vineyard to Biodynamics during the year 2017.

Petit Roubie Picpoul De Pinet. Excellent match for oysters and shellfish

Petit Roubie Picpoul De Pinet (AOP) 2023, 12.5% ABV

€16.50 Matsons at Bandon, Grange and Youghal

an excellent match for oysters and shellfish

This dry wine, dry, white, crisp and appley, from the south of France, has a green-gold hue and is often referred to as the Muscadet of the South. 

The Petit Roubie is an exemplar of the Picpoul. The grape is found in the Languedoc and the best of it seems to be from the village of Pinet, on the edge of the Med and about 90 minutes east of Carcassonne, exactly where this one is produced. Picpoul is a very old grape variety and the name means lip—stinger (after its high acidity).

It is quite aromatic, a mix of floral, citrus,  and apple. Crisp, with no shortage of acidity, with white and citrus fruit (lime) on the palate and its excellent mouthfeel, it is harmonious and pairs beautifully with oysters and shellfish. Serve at about 8 degrees for best results; a degree or two one way or the other doesn’t do any harm!

Floriane and Olivier Azan, owners of the domain, have been producing organically since 1985. The use of herbicides and pesticides, even in localised application, is strictly prohibited, while fertilisation is done with compost, seaweed, rock powders and organic fertilisers only.

Very Highly Recommended.

On the Craft Trail with Brehon Brewery, Western Herd, Third Barrel and Eight Degrees

 On the Craft Trail with Brehon Brewery, Western Herd, Third Barrel and Eight Degrees

Eight Degrees Howling Gale Pale Ale 4.5% ABV, 440 cl can 

Like a smack around the gills 

when you're "clain lifting it" down Ballyhoura hills

I'm not the only one to rate this Pale Ale highly. Howling Gale was the first beer Eight Degrees ever brewed. We’ve all changed a lot since then but not this superb ale, their first, and it is still their most popular beer.

They add: “It’s like blitzing down the Ballyhouras on a bike with an icy wind in your face, this pale ale delivers a refreshing crisp smack around the gills.” Never came down those hills on a bike but I can certainly relate to the smack around the gills, especially with the refreshing finish.

It pours a pale golden colour into the glass, with a white head. And yes, you do get that citrus on the nose, along with pine notes. It is smooth and crisp with that modest whack of bitterness in the finish.

Eight Degrees, now happily restored as a team, got this right from the start. And, also from the get-go, they provided food pairing hints. “Try with fish and chips, smoked salmon or anything off the barbecue…. With a pleasant grapefruit citrus aroma from Cascade and Simcoe hops, it is a great match with spicy or fried food”.

Malt: Irish pale malt, Carapils, Munich, Cara
Hops: Nugget, Cascade, Simcoe

Brehon Red Right Hand Barley Wine 11.0% ABV, 500 ml bottle Bradleys

“gentle to drink, clean, mellow and smooth”

A gorgeous ruby red is the colour of out Barley Wine from Monaghan’s Brehon brewery. It is crowned with a coffee coloured soft head. Despite the high abv, It is a bourbon-aged beer, earthy and sweet. The bourbon influence is unmistakable but quite subtle here. It also has a very high abv, but nonetheless, it is gentle and easy to drink, clean, mellow and smooth. Like any good wine, it comes with a lingering finish, leaving the taste buds anticipating the next sip

Brehon have made a name for themselves with barrel-aged beers, beginning with their Crann Beatha barrel-aged stout. This Barley Wine is well up to standard and, by the way, is a terrific match with Christmas pudding, with the Dunnes Stores Simply Better Black Barrel Whiskey edition in particular. Yum on the double.

Speaking of their strong beers, be sure and look out for the super Oak & Mirrors Cask Aged Imperial Porter.

They say: The red right hand is symbolic of the historic clans of Ulster. It embodies strength, unity and character, just like our Bourbon Barrel Aged Barley Wine. 

Western Herd Blue Jumper IPA, 6.2% ABV, 440 ml can Matsons

Baptised by Fr Dougal!

The bright amber colour and all those little bubbles of this Western Herd IPA is quite a come-on. The beer’s name is a Father Ted reference.

There’s a citrus and tropical fruit presence in the aromatics and palate, plus a hint of pine and resin, even a little dankness as well. And that vibrant hoppy edge continues all the way. After all, as the brewery indicates, India Pale Ale, or IPA, is a bigger, hoppier version of a pale ale. 

This one certainly is and that background bitterness is with you right to the finish, quite a good finish as it happens, with the malts having a say in the outcome ensuring that it is not all about the hops. But make no mistake, this a hoppy beer, an old school IPA.

Inspired by Father Ted! Yep, the name Blue Jumper comes straight out of the classic Fr. Ted episode where Sr. Assumpta is re-introduced to Fr. Dougal. “You were wearing your blue jumper? Ah Sister Assumpta!” An icon of Irish comedy meets an icon of West Clare brewing.

 The Clare brewery has been in good form on social media in eecent weeks. Having explained the beer’s name, they have a question. Spot the Coastline? “The can design features the stunning Clare Coast line, an epic slice of the Atlantic coast that’s as refreshing as the beer inside. But which part of the coast features on the can?”. Not too sure myself, but I think it is from Liscannor Bay up to Black Head.

Geek Bits

Style Indian Pale Ale

Colour/Appearance Amber in appearance with a clean white head

Aroma Orange and other citrus, pine, and light peach

Flavour Candied orange and a background bitterness

Hops Citra, Idaho 7, Centennial

Malts Pale, Stout Mix, Caramunich I, CaraPils, White Wheat

Yeast LAX

Original Gravity 1.059

ABV 6.2%

Third Barrel Texture Like Sun American Brown Ale, 5.5% ABV, 440 ml can, Bradleys

“absolutely SLAMMABLE American style brown ale”

The colour is a deep red, rather than brown, with a soft off-white head. Caramel and chocolate are in the aromatics, and they are also found in the mouth along with citrus flavours from the Centennial hops, the only one used. Quite an interesting example from Third Barrel and Highly Recommended. The brewers are very happy with this one: “Complex yet absolutely SLAMMABLE American style brown ale.”

 

The history of this style dates back to U.S. homebrewers being inspired by English-style brown ales and porters. US Craft brewers then took it up; while inspired by the English, the Americans weren’t content to be just imitators and took the style in different directions.

One of the Brit beers that came under the US focus was the Samuel Smith Nut Brown Ale. This “was a huge influence on a generation of American craft brewers.. in 1983,” according to Jeff Alworth in the Beer Bible. American-style brown ales generally have evident low to medium hop flavour and aroma and medium to high hop bitterness.

Not many Brown Ales are being produced by Irish brewers, and most have been once-offs. Look out for examples from Ballykilcavan (Bambricks), Lough Gill (McNuttys), Lineman (Big Calm), and Outer Place (Silent Orbit). Samuel Smith is already mentioned but the first English Browne Ale to catch my attention was Newcastle Brown Ale, and that came in a generous 550cl bottle.

The impressive Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone. "no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers"

Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone (AOC) 2023, 14% ABV, 

€24.00 at Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal)

no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers

Quite an impressive Côtes Du Rhone. By the way, the designation is AOC, the generic one rather than a village, but it is still a good one, especially on the fruity and spicy palate. It has quite a depth of tarty red and black fruit flavour. Overall, this ruby red wine, aromatic and packed with flavour, is excellent and Very Highly Recommended.

It is a blend of 66% Syrah and 34% Grenache Noir, just two of the more than twenty grape varieties allowed by the Côtes Du Rhone AOC. Serve cool with grilled red meats, charcuterie boards, cheeses, and pork and chicken dishes.

Wine has been produced in the area for hundreds of years, with the beginnings of the designation coming in 1650 with rules to protect authenticity and guarantee quality.

Frost has had a major influence on the wine story here. In 1956, the famous Mistral Wind (still an influence), battered the region for three weeks, reaching a velocity of over one hundred kilometres per hour and dropping to a temperature of minus 15 degrees centigrade.

Most of the region's olive trees suffered serious frost damage but the vines resisted so well that the majority of the local farmers decided to turn over primarily to vine cultivation.

At the Oratoire Saint-Martin, they use no pesticides, chemical fertilizers or weed killers. The estate is certified as organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter.

Tinedo Cala N.1 Casilla. Embodying the essence of an almost unknown Mancha.

Tinedo Cala N.1 (Vin de la Tierra Castilla) 2018, 14.5% ABV  Price: €15.00 at Matsons (Bandon, Grange, Youghal)

"embodying the essence of an almost unknown Mancha"

The colour of this wine from Castilla, Spain, is a dark ruby, transitioning to a lighter earthy red at the rim. The nose is outstanding and intense, featuring aromatic notes of cherry and strawberry. This impressive and well-rounded wine has a velvety mouthfeel. It is powerful yet well-balanced, making it a gem that is Very Highly Recommended. Incredible value at this price.

This wine is certified organic, as indicated by the Demeter sticker on the back of the bottle. It is crafted from a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon (according to the producer’s website). They add: “We only use grapes from Finca Tinedo itself. It is a terroir wine, where all the original vines share the same climate, soil, natural nutrients, and care conditions, resulting in unique and stable flavours and nuances from each harvest.”

CALA N.1 “has been aged in concrete tanks, which help retain the grapes’ freshness and preserve the floral and red fruit aromas. This method results in a balanced and well-structured wine, highlighting the qualities of the terroir and showcasing the authenticity of a single-vineyard wine with personality.” I wholeheartedly agree with this assessment.

La Mancha is well known for its association with the famous author Cervantes (1547-1616) and is less recognized for its wines. Finca Tinedo is one of the oldest wineries in La Mancha. Since 1846, this family-owned winery has exclusively produced single-vineyard and single-plot wines, embodying “the essence of an almost unknown Mancha.” 

Pacheco Monastrell Jumilla. Excellent Excellent example of an unoaked Monastrell

Pacheco Monastrell Jumilla (DOP) 2021, 14.5% ABV

€15.00 Matsons Wine Store (Bandon, Grange, Youghal)

Excellent example of an unoaked Monastrell

The organic Monastrell from the lesser-known Spanish wine region of Jumilla features a mid-ruby colour. It offers aromas of red berries and hints of balsamic. A warming wine, it is balanced and full-bodied while remaining soft and fresh all the way through to its super-long finish. 

Pacheco aimed to create a versatile and appealing organic wine, representing an excellent example of an unoaked Monastrell at a reasonable price point. With its easy-drinking nature and well-balanced character, I believe they have hit the mark perfectly with this one. It pairs wonderfully with tapas and paella.

Very Highly Recommended.

Jumilla

Jumilla is a three-hour drive south of Madrid and less than an hour by car from Alicante Airport (gateway to the Costa Blanca). The Jumilla DOP (Denominación de Origen Protegida) extends from the southeastern part of the province of Albacete, through Murcia, down to the border with Alicante province. In this region, Monastrell is celebrated as the “queen grape."

Monastrell

Monastrell is a black-skinned grape variety indigenous to Spain, where it is widely cultivated. It is also found across the border in Southern France, where it is known as Mourvèdre and plays a significant role in the Rhone GSM (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre) blends.

The Producer:

Bodegas Viña Elena produces two main wine ranges: the traditional Familia Pacheco range and the Bruma del Estrecho de Marín collection.

The Familia Pacheco range includes wines like this Monastrell, which was first produced in 2005. These wines are made using grapes from their own vineyards, located near the bodega, and grapes sourced from local farmers who have been supplying them for over 40 years.