Yellow Pearl & an Irish Vineyard

Wohlmuth Gelber Muskateller Steinriegel (Austria) 2011, 12.5%, €14.72 Karwig Wines

Yellow is the colour of my true love’s hair

In the morning when we rise..

Yellow (Gelber) is also the colour of this gorgeous aromatic Austria wine, the grapes for which are hard won from very steep slopes (up to 78%). The soil is a red slate in this vineyard which has been referred to, for centuries, as the best in Styria. The Muskateller is an ancient variety and the fruit is harvested very late and is handpicked.

It is more light gold than yellow and you’ll see hints of green. The aromas are quite fragrant. It has a gorgeous mouthfeel, no shortage of fruit. Indeed it is excellent from the intro to the long dry finish. Quite a gem by one of the area’s top producers and highly recommended.

The Irish Vineyard – No Kidding!

Many of you, especially the Cork contingent, will be familiar with the Blarney Blonde, an ale by the Franciscan Well. But how many of you about the Blarney Red, the Blarney White, the Kilkenny Red and the Kilkenny White not to mention Pog mo Thoin.

Not beers but wines and they are produced in California by Irish Vineyards www.IrishVineyards.com. Could hardly believe it when I stumbled on the site. Apparently it, the vineyard, was set up by the Murphy boys in 1849. Nowadays it is owned by Russell and Joan Irish and you’ll find them in Vallecito, California!

California in a bottle

California in a bottle

The Sunshine State came to Jacobs on the Mall on Monday. No sunshine but an array of classy wines, everything from white and red Zinfandel to a Ménage a Trois (a blend of Zin, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon).

Fionn Little (l) and Paul Kiernan at Bubble Bros.

 Cork’s own Bubble Brothers, represented by Paul Kiernan and Fionn Little, didn’t have a big line-up but did have a very strong one, including some terrific Cabernet Sauvignon.

Having enjoyed their Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir 2009, I moved into food wine territory with the same producer’s 2008 Cab Sauv, smooth and spicy, retailing at about €15.00.

Then up another notch to the smooth and velvety Hahn Estates 2007 Cab Sauv (€22.00) before finishing off here with the excellent Smith and Hook 2006, a fantastic wine priced accordingly at €38.00.

Met Paul O’Flynn and Mark Redmond at the Fevre stand and they introduced me to a set of excellent Chardonnays, including the Parducci, Mendocino County 2006 and the top Cakebread Cellars 2010, from the renowned Napa Valley, retailing at about €30.00.

Stephen Morrissey (Barry and Fitzwilliam)
and Laura McGlynn (Findlater)

Also called to the popular Classic Drinks stand. Their entry level Round Hill Oak Free Chardonnay and Spirit Hawk Pinot Grigio were impressive as was the Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay 2009. The highlight for me was the classy Scott Family Pinot Noir 2008, rich and fruity with  smooth tannins and long finish.

Stephen Morrissey of Barry and Fitzwilliam was, as always, friendly, helpful and courteous. He had a couple of beauties on the stand. For me the best of the whites was the Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks Chardonnay 2009 while the Mondavi Pinot Noir 2008 was one of the very best overall. It weighs in at a powerful 15.5% and sells for something just over twenty euro. One to watch out for.

Nice also to meet up with Laura McGlynn of Findlater.  Must say that the Marimar Estate Chardonnay from the organic Don Miguel vineyard in the Russian River Valley was perhaps the best white in the room. It is named the Acero, the Spanish word for steel, and is their way of saying it is unoaked. It is bright, fresh and vibrant and so easy to drink but will set you back around €35.00.

Findlater’s reds weren’t half bad either and a favourite was the Ménage a Trois, which has seen French and American oak. The wine maker’s notes: “...exposes the fresh, red, ripe, jam like fruit that is the calling card f California wine. Forward, silky and soft, this delicious dalliance makes the perfect accompaniment for frilled meats or chicken.” Couldn’t put it better myself.

Fevre's Paul O'Flynn (l)
and Mark Redmond.

There were a couple of terrific wines on the Tindal stand where the quality of information was top notch as usual. Enjoyed a couple of high class whites here, starting with the terrific perfectly balanced Baileyana Grand Firepeak Cuvee Chardonnay, Edna Valley 2008.

Thought that was good but then followed the five star Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009, “one of the few California Chardonnays that behaves like a Grand Cru Chablis”. Intense and rich, but with matching acidity. Wow!

Last year, worked my way through many Zins but didn’t touch one this time. Think I’ll be drawing up a shortlist of Californian wines and the sub headings for 2012 will be Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Thanks to Justine Adam and her crew and all the exhibitors for a very enjoyable afternoon and if I missed out on any of your star favourites – I probably did - just let me know and I’ll keep an eye out for it.

Wine Institute of California returns to Cork

The Wine Institute of California are returning for their Annual Cork Wine Tasting.  The trade tasting will be held on Monday 30th April from 1.30pm to 5pm  at the stunning Jacobs on the Mall Restaurant, South Mall, Cork City.  Followed by a consumer event from 6pm - 7.30pm at Jacobs, in conjunction with Easy Food Magazine.

Most of the big Names in California Wines will be present on the day including: Beringer, Chateau Montelena, E & J Gallo Winery, Hahn Estate, Robert Mondavi, Rutherford Ranch, Stags Leap and Sutter Home. 

Monday 30th April - Jacobs on the Mall.

KINSALE'S WINE MUSEUM

KINSALE’S WINE MUSEUM

At Desmond Castle

St Patrick sipping!

In the church of St Patrice in Rouen (France), there is a 16^th century stained glass window* showing the Irish patron saint having a glass of wine at Tara in 433 while the High King looks on anxiously. Maybe it’s the King’s glass?

On the 17^th of October, 1710, Jonathan Swift wrote to Stella from London: “I dined today with your Mr Sterne ...and drank Irish wine”.

In 1780, John Windham recalled visiting Cork city: “There are no hackney coaches but there are plenty of chairs or sedans. ...These vehicles are extremely convenient for the followers of Bacchus who has a great number of votaries in this city.”

These anecdotes show that there has been a long association between wine and the Irish so it is no surprise that the Irish went abroad some of them became involved in the trade. The most recent example I came across is the late Michael Lynch in Argentina’s Mendoza.

Loads of similar info is in the Wine Museum in Kinsale’s Desmond Castle. Maybe not the efforts of Michael Lynch, but virtually every other Irish connection, certainly before 2000 when the museum was set up, is very well covered indeed and great credit here goes to Ted Murphy, the Corkman who put it all together.

Many of you will know of the Cork family Hennessey who ended up in Bordeaux, the very same family whose name still appears on Ireland’s most popular cognac (brandy). But did you know that we were also involved in the sherry trade? Terry, for example.

The French connection is strong (and getting stronger in places like Provence and the Languedoc) but the Irish were also involved in wine in America, Cronins and Foleys in California for example.

And not just North America. Some of you may be familiar with the popular Chilean wine: St Rita 120. In the early 19^th century, freedom fighter General Barnardo Higgins (father from Sligo) and 120 of his men (including General John McKenna, another Irishman) took refuge in the St Rita cellars during the battle of Rancagua. The wine is named in their honour.

Many many connections and loads of interesting facts and also some memorabilia. I could go on and on but, in fairness to Mr Murphy, I think anyone interested in wine should take a trip down to Kinsale and take your time as you wander through the two rooms that make up this museum. Highly recommended and the admission at three euro wouldn’t buy you a glass of wine in any of the town's restaurants.

The three euro will also get you into the castle which was originally built about 1500 as the Kinsale Customs House, one of its tasks being to collect a tax based on the tonnage and quality of the wine. In 1497, the English king granted the local Earl of Desmond the right to take one cask from every shipment for himself!

Occupied by the Spanish during the Siege of Kinsale in 1601, the most famous event in the castle’s history came in 1747 when 54 prisoners died in a fire. Most of them were French seamen and the castle later became known as the French prison.

·          There is a reproduction (photo above) of the window in the museum, donated by the Irish John and Eithne Lagan of the Xanadu Winery (Margaret River, Aus.). By the way, I love their Next of Kin wines (available via Bubble Brothers).

CALIFORNIA TASTING

ZIG ZAG ZIN

Zig Zag Zin was just one many Zinfandels tasted at Jacobs On the Mall who, on Monday afternoon, hosted a tasting for the Wine Institute of California.

The Zin is the grape most associated with the huge West Coast wine industry. Monday’s selections were excellent though I must say I really liked the Beringer Founders 14.5% on the Febvre stand where Peter Corr was an excellent host.

Left to r: Peter Corr (Febvre), Kevin Crowley (Fenn's Quay) and Maurice O'Mahony (Wine Alliance)

They also had the Cake Bread Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the most