Leap newcomers Harnen head list of West Cork places to have that mid-day break.

Leap newbies Harnen head list of West Cork places to have that mid-day break.

Harnen of Leap

You’re driving around West Cork. You’ve had that big breakfast and the evening's reserved dinner will not lack quantity either. You need to take it easy at lunchtime. 

But where? Here’s four suggestions: Along the Way (Goleen), Garinish Café on the eponymous island, Béal Blásta in Ballydehob and the newly opened Harnen in Leap will have the  tasty answer, with quality. I’m sure there are quite a few more (including Mannings of Ballylickey) but these are the ones that came to my rescue over the past few weeks.

Harnen, just opened in Leap, is a terrific spot for that mid-day break. Or mid morning. Mid afternoon. Midweek. Mid journey. Or whenever you're passing!

Loganberry cake at Harnen of Leap

Cherry and Almond combo at Harnen 

Harnen of Leap  a Bakery, Cafe and a Provisions Store, is the first of the four you'll meet if travelling west from the city. It will be on your left in the village and is open Wednesday to Sunday 9-3:30pm with lunch served 11:30-2:30pm. It is already very popular and gets full quickly. Park by the church on your right. Harnen is in the ultra capable hands of Mark Jennings and Sadie Pearce (both formerly of the beloved Pilgrim's restaurant in Rosscarbery).

Along the Way, Goleen

Cookie and Lemon Drizzle at Along the Way

Mizen Head is a popular destination for visitors and the centre has its own excellent café. But this time we halted in Goleen to call to the well named Along the Way. In the centre of the village, the café sells freshly baked scones, cakes and cookies, and coffee of course. It closes on Wednesdays and hours every other day are 9.30am to 4.30 pm (4pm on Sundays).

Tea,Toffee and Nuts, and Cookie at Béal Blásta in Ballydehob
and, below, the arches of Ballydehob

In West Cork, at some point, you'll almost certainly end up in Ballydehob and in the middle of the village you'll find Béal Blásta, a wholefood shop, a vegetarian deli and café. Their mission is "to bring you joy-filled, delicious wholefood meals and treats" including freshly baked goods and great coffee too. You may not find parking too easily but there are a few lots just off the busy main street. Café hours: 9.30 to 6.pm every day except Sunday 10.00 to 3.00. By the way, Bantry House, our destination that day, also has a tea-room.

In the Garinish Cafe: superb fruit (juicy raspberry) scone and an even better apple cake

The café on Garinish Island was a pleasant surprise to us. We had planned to snack in Glengarriff but called here instead as soon as the ferry pulled in to the slip alongside. They do excellent cakes here. It is the only café on the OPW managed island. A warm welcome from the OPW guide awaits you here and you'll also find a water station, toilets, and a large mounted map to help you get around. 

If you don 't get your snack on the island, try the local Spar in the Post Office in the centre of Glengarriff village. They make delicious well-priced rolls. And their ice-cream is superb also.

In the Blue Pool: Ferry for Garinish  loads up.

Another well known lunch stop in the area is Arundel's By The Pier in Ahakista. By the way, it is not quite on the pier, just a very short distance away. If you are coming from the pier, they have parking on your right (before you pass the pub).

Take a break here, either before or after your Sheep's Head "stroll". By the way, a nearby pub, the Tin Pub, is equally popular if the number of cars parked outside each is a guide.

Arundel's (2025 photo)

After spending 90 to 120 minutes walking around the spectacular paths and viewpoints, you might consider a fuel stop at the onsite Mizen Café. It offers a range of snacks, hot and cold drinks, and homemade treats including:

• Teas, coffee and hot chocolate
• Cold juices and soft drinks
• A variety of home baked produce, including cakes, brown bread, apple tart and more...
• Homemade soup and that West Cork favourite, seafood chowder
• Local mussels and fresh fish and chips
• A selection of freshly made sandwiches
• Whipped ice-cream cones, perfect for cooling down on a warm day