Mizen Head. Two faces, one foggy, one sunny, of Ireland's most south-westerly point.

Mizen Head. Two faces in one day, foggy, sunny, 

of Ireland's most south-westerly point.

Dunlough Bay

You are here!

Mizen Head, traditionally regarded as the most southerly point of mainland Ireland, had two faces for us last Tuesday morning. We’ve experienced all kinds of weather during our regular visits over the years, from scorching sunshine and pounding seas and now the fog. 

On arrival, we thought we wouldn’t be able to see anything due to the deep fog. But by the time we had read our way through the various exhibitions, that fog had begun to shift, and the sun was starting to show. In any weather, perched on the edge of the Atlantic, Mizen Head is one of the most spectacular headlands on Ireland’s seaboard. 

On arriving at Mizen, you'll find a pretty large car park with some great views (normally!) over the ocean. The entrance hall, including the ticket office and some exhibitions, is straight ahead. Here also, you find a café, shop and bathrooms. The indoor exhibitions, both by the entrance and down at the point, are fascinating. 

Foggy morning

Once you come out in the open, you have a range of cliff paths ahead of you. Perhaps the main one is more or less straight to the impressive footbridge. You may be fit enough to do all the pathways, but do try to get up to the amazing viewpoints over Dunlough Bay.

The story of the Fastnet Lighthouse is well told at Mizen, as in this illustration.

In any case, you must not miss a stroll over that footbridge where you may well see seals far below. Continue straight ahead to the old signalling station, now a museum open to visitors. Quite a few more interesting displays here, including the lightkeeper at breakfast (though he hasn’t touched a bite since I was here last!

As many of you know, the 40th anniversary  of the Air India bombing was marked recently at the memorial park in nearby Ahakista.  Three hundred and twenty-nine people (208 of them Canadian) were murdered when the plane exploded off the West Cork coast.

But that wasn't the area's first disaster involving Canadians. I found this info on one of the many info panels at Mizen. 

"HMHS Liandovery Castle, built in 1914 in Glasgow as RMS Llandovery Castle for the Union-Castle Line, was one of five Canadian hospital ships that served in the First World War. On a voyage from Halifax, Nova Scotia to Liverpool, England, the ship was torpedoed off southern Ireland, about 116 miles southwest of Fastnet on 27 June 1918. 

The sinking was the deadliest Canadian naval disaster of the war. 234 doctors, nurses, members of the Canadian Army Medical Corps, soldiers and seamen died in the sinking and subsequent machine-gunning of lifeboats. Only 24 people, the occupants on a single life-raft, survived. The incident became infamous internationally and was considered, after the Armenian genocide, as one of the war's worst atrocities. After the war, the case of Llandovery Castle was one of six alleged German war crimes prosecuted at the Leipzig trials."

No fog now!

The nearby village of Crookhaven has had a distinguished history as the first and last port of call for ships going between Northern European ports and America. Over the centuries, ships stocked up here with provisions and bunkered. This drew radio pioneer Guglielmo Marconi to the West Cork village in the early 1900s, and he guided subsequent communications developments that made sea traffic more efficient and safer. Read more in Mizenhead.ie There is still a property in the village called Marconi House. 

Bovine Balance. On the edge!

After spending 90 to 120 minutes walking around the spectacular paths, why not drop into the Mizen Café, which offers a range of snacks, hot and cold drinks, and home-made treats including:

• Teas, coffee and hot chocolate
• Cold juices and soft drinks
• A variety of home baked produce, including cakes, brown bread, apple tart and more...
• Homemade soup and that West Cork favourite, seafood chowder
• Local mussels and fresh fish and chips
• A selection of freshly made sandwiches
• Whipped ice-cream cones, perfect for cooling down on a warm day

As I drove down (R585). from Crookstown, the amount of flora growing on the roadside was
eye-catching. Early on, there were plenty of wild roses and more and more fuchia, meadowsweet
 also,  the further west I travelled. The area around Mizen, including Barleycove, has quite an
amount of flora, including some rare ones. This Sea Plantain is quite common on Mizen.

Short video Dunlough Bay

Also on this trip:

Mizen Head

Garinish Island

Schull Harbour Hotel

Sheep's Head Peninsula

Mizen Head Fascinates Even On A Grey And Windy Day

 Mizen Head Fascinates Even

 On A Grey And Windy Day

The forecast didn't promise sunshine. The forecast winds came for sure but were not as strong as we had hoped, so no real drama as the Atlantic moved in to wash the toes of Europe in Dunlough Bay. Still, Mizen Head's capacity to enthral its visitors was evident and there were quite a few here at Ireland's most southerly point. More info here from the Mizen Head website, very informative indeed and well worth a visit before you travel.

Don't think these bulbs were used in the signal lamp!

We spent most of our time here on the outside, walking every path, getting to each and every viewing point. The information displays inside need refreshing (some, including the interactive ship's bridge, were out of order) and so it was good to see a new building going up.

There is a café here and we had a small snack on this occasion. But they have quite a menu so you won't go hungry. Currently, the choice includes soup, chowder, sandwiches, toasties, wraps, quiche and dishes like local mussels and Fish and Chips. There is a Children's Menu and plenty of drinks including tea (Barry's of course) and coffee along with soft drinks.

Three's a crowd. Three choughs together, briefly. This bird, a member of the crow family, is resident
along rocky coasts in Munster, as well as parts of Connaught and Ulster 

Dunlough Bay (plus two below)

Right to left: landslide, footbridge and lighthouse

The footbridge (and three pics below)

Lighthouse

Lighthouse and footbridge

At Ireland's most southerly point

An old shed

See also on this trip:

See also on this trip:

Light Lunch at Mary Ann's in Castletownsend

One Day in West Cork

Mizen Head Fascinates, even on a grey and windy day.

Reen Pier Magic. Day and Night.

Baltimore Children Learning The Waves.

Dining Well In Celtic Ross. Summer of '23.

West Cork in Brief

West Cork in Brief

Stay: Celtic Ross Hotel 

Dine: with Michelin Chef Dede at Customs House, Baltimore.

Barleycove Strand, near Mizen

Visit: Spectacular Mizen Head 

Head for the islands - there are dozens of them

Check out the local "wild" life

Visit Clonakilty or one of the many other towns and villages

or just put your feet up!

Mizen Head's Spectacular In All Kinds Of Weather

Mizen Head's Spectacular In All Kinds Of Weather

Always worth a look!

Fair weather or foul, or even foggy (as it was last Wednesday), spectacular Mizen Head is a must visit if you’re in the West Cork area. 

As with everywhere else, there are Covid19 restrictions in operation and you must wear a mask to gain entry to the indoor areas including exhibition rooms, café (takeout only) and so on. Because of Covid, the seasonal Mizen opening had been delayed and indeed their first day had been the one before our visit. In any case, they had it well organised (sanitisers, distance markings etc) and everything onsite went very well indeed.

Masked on Mizen

Speaking of masks, some visitors, who had decided against the full visit, asked to use the toilet. Two of a group near us had just other one mask between them. So the young lady went first, came out and handed the mask to her partner who then took his turn!

When we arrived it was quite foggy and that had put some people off. But we paid the reasonable fee and enjoyed our visit. We were feeling a little hungry after the two and a half hour drive* from the city. So we took a look at the pretty extensive menu outside and settled on a couple of well made and decently priced toasties.

Dunlough Bay

That set us up nicely to take on the fenced paths (with helpful hand-rails). The one up to the viewing point over rocky Dunlough Bay is the most worthwhile. Another, the first one really, and a much shorter one, gives you a fine view from above over the footbridge.

Then, carry on to the lighthouse itself over the bridge that was opened in 1993. On the way back, be sure and take the short path down towards a viewing point just below the bridge level. Here we saw a couple of seals frolicking in the water below. The final path for us was the longest, down to the rocks, with a view of the arch in the rocks and also quite a view back to the rocky point where the lighthouse stands. Tough enough coming back up!

Toormore

The fog had thinned out quite a bit as we departed and indeed a few minutes later we were passing above the lovely Barleycove beach and here the sun was blazing down and the beach looked very impressive from our viewing point. Car parks were more or less full and there were quite a few people on the sand. It is a large beach though.

Next stop was at the bay of Toormore. We have often seen its famous Altar Wedge Tomb (signposted) but the bay itself is an attractive one with very pleasing views when the sun is out. A notice here says people may have been worshipping in this place some 4,000 years ago. Good spot for a picnic, not there’s any table! 

Go to the last on the left!

On then to Schull. We had intended making a short stop here but the noted holiday village was packed. I made a couple of attempts to find a parking place before deciding to motor on. We were heading for the Celtic Ross Hotel in Rosscarbery, our base for the night. Having checked in, we took a walk by the water, watching the many different seabirds feeding here, before going back for an “excellent” feed ourselves in the hotel’s restaurant. More on that in a later post.

Barleycove beach on the way back from Mizen

* Should have been shorter than the eventual 2.5 hours but a few things conspired against us. We’ve been here at Mizen a few times and never had a problem. But our current Sat-Nav didn’t recognise the name, the fog didn’t help, and crucially the final sign to go left was missing. We went straight on there and ended up in the car park for Three Castles Head (another excellent visit, by the way). On the way back, we found the Mizen Head sign, well rusted, in the briars, the pole itself, with Goleen on top, was standing and in good condition!

The sign for Mizen in the briars. Didn't see it in the fog earlier on

Also on this trip:
Celtic Ross Hotel's A Superb Base for West Cork
Lunch with Chef Ahmet Dede at Customs House in Baltimore

Budds Ballydehob for Lunch. Sandwiched between a couple of climbs!

Budds Ballydehob for Lunch.

Sandwiched between a couple of climbs!

Ant activity near Three Castles Head

When I knew I was heading for Schull, I put getting up to Mount Gabriel on top of my list. But, on Saturday morning, we headed south instead from the village with the Three Castles Head the immediate objective. Gabriel would have to wait until the afternoon!

Three Castles Head is in the Mizen area. Having passed through Goleen, you come to a cross where your turn left for Mizen Head and straight ahead for Three Castles Head (which is also signed). There was a cycle race on the road so the trip was very slow.

The Three Castles

You will come to Dunlough Bay and a rough car park. Open (and close) the farm gate and follow the few well placed arrows. Firstly, the walk is on a path across fields and then it gets a little (just) rougher. 

You’ll pass the white buildings, including the cafe, named after the head and open only in summer. A notice requests a voluntary contribution (3 euro is suggested) as you pass through a narrow gate on the farm.

Mizen Head in the distance

I didn't time the walk, but after 25 minutes or so, the three castles will come into view, suddenly. Their situation is quite spectacular and you also have great views over the nearby ocean and into Dunmanus Bay. The three ruins are known collectively as Dunlough Castle and are located at the most westerly point of the Mizen Peninsula in West Cork. You have excellent views also over Mizen Head including its lighthouse structure.

You may continue your walk up and beyond the castles, up towards a cairn on top of one of the peaks. Some detail via an Irish Times article here.  I did go up a little beyond the castle before turning back.

It was coming close to lunchtime but reluctantly I passed the café which had been highly recommended by locals. I had promised myself I'd call to Budds in Ballydehob who, as one of Cork’s cafés of character, were supporting the Cork Summer Bounty Week.

A group of cyclists were having lunch here too so it was busy enough. I read the specials and my server pointed out that most of their produce was local. I picked the salad which featured Lea’s baby carrots and squash, Macroom buffalo ricotta, on a bed of local mixed leaves with beetroot and balsamic purée, walnut and Portobello mushroom.

The carrot was rather a big baby but quite a tasty one, the mushroom was superb as was the ricotta and all the leaves were as fresh as could be. All in all, a lovely summer lunch. CL also hit the jackpot with the Wagyu Beef burger, with local black and white pudding, and smoked Gubbeen cheese. An expresso later and we were on our way to another climb!

We checked with the tourist office as to the best road in to the foot of 407 metre high Mount Gabriel (you can drive to the top) and the man on duty was delighted to tell us as he lives in the area. The “mountain” is well-known for its two radar domes (aviation tracking) on top and lesser known for the fact that, in ancient times, copper mining was carried out here.

From top of Gabriel

Every time I've seen it while in Schull, I had imagined the views from its would be great. Now I was on my way and while some low cloud had intervened the views were still stunning even if the domes and their fences are not and could do with a spruce up.

Back then to our lovely guesthouse, Stanley House, for a break and a shower before heading out for more food!

See also: Gubbeen Farm Visits. Cheese and charcuterie.

Friday Night in Schull. L’Escale & Hackett’s Bar

Tapas at Schull’s Casa Diego. And Farewell to lovely Stanley House

On the way to Three Castles Head