Garinish Island. Glengarrif's Precious Gem

Garinish Island. Glengarrif’s Precious Gem

Leaving the Blue Pool for the island.

Garinish Island, officially known as Ilnacullin, and often spoken of as Garnish Island, is a small island of rare beauty, nestled in the sheltered coastal harbour at Glengarriff in Bantry Bay and nowadays in the hands of the OPW. 

In the Italian Garden

We were lucky with the weather last week and made it our first port of call on the opening day of our short stay, using the Schull Harbour Hotel as our base. As usual, we headed for the Blue Pool from which the eponymous ferry company operates. Unusually, the ferry does not take credit cards, while the island entry point does.

The Temple

The boat took us close to Seal Island on our way out, and there were all sizes of seals lounging in the sun. Soon, we landed at Garinish and paid the nominal entry fee. There is also a little café here selling soup, scones, rolls, cakes, coffee, teas, hot chocolate and cold drinks.

Italian Garden

There is a recommended route, but don’t worry if you take a wrong turn, as you’ll soon find your way. It is not very big. The big attraction is the Italian Garden, its beautiful little building, ornamental pool, lawn and walled garden so pleasing to the eye.

Caha Mountains in the distance

Not all the walking is so easy, though. There are many steps up to the Martello tower, but do persevere as the views are stunning. There is also a designated viewpoint nearby if you don’t feel like taking the narrow internal staircase to the top of the tower.

English Border in Walled Garden

From the tower, head down to the Happy Valley and the Jungle (which has many imported trees and shrubs, some from South America, New Zealand and China, almost as international as the mix of tourists that know visit the beautiful place).

Casita Lawn

Be sure also to visit the popular temple, reached via an avenue of Italian cypress and giving superb views out to the sea and the Caha Mountains.

As I said, the island is quite small and you won't get lost. Probably best to buy the Visitors Guide (Ilnacullin, by the OPW at the entry office) and, if you follow this, you’ll enjoy your visit even more.

Having enjoyed our time there, we headed to the little harbour and soon our Blue Ferry boat arrived to take us back after a delightful 90 minutes or so in the shade and the sun.

Also on this trip:

Mizen Head

Garinish Island

Schull Harbour Hotel

Sheep's Head Peninsula

A Couple of Days in West Cork Syrian Food. Manning’s Emporium. An Eagle’s Nest. Burgundy on the Beach. Room with a View. Magic.

A Couple of Days in West Cork

Manning’s Emporium. Syrian Food.  An Eagle’s Nest.

Burgundy on the Beach. Room with a View. Magic.

On Garinish Island, with the Italian Garden in the centre

Mid April and we’re off to West Cork for a couple of days. We get to taste Syrian food in Bandon, lunch at the amazing and expanding Manning’s Emporium, see the eagle’s nest near Glengarriff where we stay and dine at the spectacular Eccles Hotel before a wander around the large and engaging Bantry Market.

Manning's Pizza oven

First stop is in Bandon where we had a little lunch at the Bayleaf (LINK), a restaurant serving a delicious mix of Irish and Syrian food. Then a stroll around the town and a call to Ruth at URRU for coffee and also to check out the shelves stocked well with good food and drink. URRU by the way is expanding, upwards, and Ruth is waiting patiently for the stairs to be installed! It will be an even better place to visit and relax over a cuppa.

Salad at Manning's

The first major halt is at the beachside hotel Inchydoney Lodge, a spectacular place. We are here for the Louis Jadot Burgundy Wine dinner and, before that, a walk on the beach of course.

The Ploughman

The following morning, after breakfast, we decide to take advantage of the emerging sun to walk the beach on the other side of the hotel before heading off west. First stop is at Manning's Food Emporium in Ballylickey. They too have well-stocked shelves, all kinds of food and drink.

Eagle's next, top right

But the major attraction is their expanding outside dining area (they have covered and indoor spaces too, in case of rain!). And we spot their newly installed pizza oven, going down a treat at the weekends.

A little lunch is called for on this occasion and one of us has a plate of crisp and beautiful salad while the other enjoys a delicious Ploughman’s on a baguette. Amazing freshness, colour, flavour and texture on each plate. And the tea was top class also!

On then to beautiful Glengarriff. With the sun in a strong position, it was an ideal day to visit Garinish Island. We got the boat at the lovely Blue Pool and our skipper took great care of us, making sure we had lots of time to enjoy the seals lazing on the rocks and then he pointed out the lofty tree top nest of the sea eagles. Enjoyed the walk around the island - we’ve been there a few times before - especially the climb to the Martello tower and the Italian Garden. 

There is a new attraction here now, a guided tour of Bryce House. You need to plan this into your schedule. It starts at quarter past the hour and takes about 45 minutes. We didn’t have quite enough time but will visit on the next occasion. The ferry charge is 12 euro and there is a 5 euro fee to visit the island.

On Garinish, Italian Garden

 More seals and another look up at the nest (there was an eagle standing there) as we made our leisurely way back to the Blue Pool. Time then to check in at the Eccles. We had specified a room with a view and it was rather special. After a little drink in the hotel's Harbour Bar, we strolled up to the village.

Dinner in the bar (the main restaurant opens for the main tourist season) was excellent. Breakfast was actually served in that lovely main restaurant, the Garinish, and that set us nicely. It was another sunny morning and ideal for a visit to the huge Bantry Market where everything from the best of local food to bric-a-brac is for sale. Well worth a visit.

Links for this visit:

Inchydoney Hotel Wine Dinner. 

The Eccles Hotel in Glengarriff.

Bantry Market.

Syrian Food at Bandon's Bayleaf.

Bantry Market