Goldie's star shines on brightly in Cork City centre

 Goldie's star shines on brightly in Cork City 

The gold fish on Shandon (left)
and another "goldie",  the angel on
St Finn Barr's

The gold salmon at the top of Shandon is a landmark for visitors and natives in Cork City. The fish restaurant, named Goldie, in the flat of the city, is already in an elevated position when its comes to matters fish on the plate.

Goldie opened its doors in 2019 and quickly grew in popularity as Chef Aishling Moore’s ever varying menu drew high praise from the beginning. Goldie uses every bit of the fish and also uses only fresh fish, mostly landed by small boats in East Cork. For more on her methods, try her book Whole Catch.

Oyster Paté

You know you’re in the right place when your server chats and smiles and enthusiastically details what’s on offer. And we knew straightaway as we entered the upstairs room. Downstairs had seating also and you can see the kitchen there as well.

Our server was full of info as well as a courteous enthusiasm. We heard, as they spoke to the table next to us, that no, the salt cod was not salty and told us that the Brandade did feature corander but in a mild way, that if you wanted a “good feed” you would be as well to add a side (the Colcannon is a dish in itself!), that the chilli with the Megrim was not too hot and that any of the Killahora shorts would go well with the blue cheese.

Salted Cod tartlet

So we were well advised by the time we got to choose, the drinks beginning with a glass of the excellent Pecorini di Chieti, a great match with fish, and a glass of their top notch Angel Stout to pair with the oyster paté.

Oyster paté? You may well ask but that starter is one of the kind of surprise that await you here and indeed had the stout, made by their brewery across the road, is listed as an ingredient. The full description: Rossmore rock oyster paté, fennel and pickled dill, Angel Stout and apple treacle loaf. Meanwhile, across the table, the Salt Cod Brandade tartlet (with salsa verde and Churchfield tomatoes) was received with relish.

Sole

There was an appropriate relaxed pace to the service. And the 16 people in the room were all made to feel at home and got their food, and drinks, as required. No fuss, no rush.

I’ve seen quite a lot of Megrim (also called Cornish sole) on the French west coast but this may have been my first time eating it in Cork. iIt’s been on the Goldie menu for a few years and I did enjoy a Megrim Soup produced by Ciaran Scully who also featured a Witch fish on an evening meal  in the Bayview in Ballycotton.

Megrim

Goldie’s version: Pan roast Megrim, mange-tout, tomato and chilli butter sauce (25.5). Just one look and I knew it was good, and  then it was love at first bite. Happy tunes too from across the table as CL enjoyed her Pan Fried Lemon Sole, caramelised chicory chutney and café de Paris butter (28.50).

We were pacing ourselves to a degree and shared a serving of the excellent Sea Salt Shoestring Chips. We were glad we didn’t overdo it with the sides as two gorgeous desserts lay ahead.

Strawberry dessert

You just don’t ignore any chance to eat these super Bushby Strawberries and these came with a Macroom ricotta pavlova. I had a little chat with our server about which drink to take with the Wicklow Blue with slices of a superb fruit and seed loaf. I was pointed towards the The Niepoort Senior Tawny but I stuck with supporting local and enjoyed it with a glass of the Killahora Pom’o Port (finished in a Roe and Co whiskey cask).

Not a match made in heaven but in a foodie paradise. Go visit soon but be sure and book as it is a busy spot.

Wicklow Blue. That fruit and seed loaf was delicious.

By the way, while the menu is short, meat eaters and vegetarians will find something to suit. On our visit, Roast East Ferry chicken and a Summer Savoury Polenta (with grilled courgette and basil) were on the menu, along with the three fish dishes of Sole, Cod and Megrim.