A right royal booze cruise in the Kingdom

A right royal booze cruise in the Kingdom 

Kerry comes up trumps with beer and whiskey.

Always enjoy a visit to Kerry and last week's visit was no exception, even if the weather played spoilsport. 

If you visit only one off licence in the county, then the Carry Out on the Muckross Road is the one. I've been visiting regularly for the past few years and they never let you down. It is well stocked and local beers are prominently displayed. This time I bought a bunch of cans from the Dingle Brewery (Dick Macks), some Tom Crean and Sullivan's Red Ale. As we drove off, the boot already had the sounds of a wine-buying trip on the Loire or the Rhone or Dordogne.

After a very enjoyable private visit in Killarney, we made our way to the Parknasilla Resort, our home from home for the next three nights. More on the hotel and its many facilities here. The drinks list came in for immediate scrutiny and I was delighted to note that they had no less then four craft beers on tap, a lager and IPA from Tom Creans (over the road), a Pale Ale from Blacks of Kinsale and the Red Ale from Sullivans of Kilkenny. It is the first time I've had that red ale on tap and it was magnificent. Sullivans don't dabble in a multitude of styles but the few they produce are top notch.

From Carry Out, Muckross Road, Killarney

Quite a selection also of Irish whiskey, as you'd expect, including the local favourite, the Dingle Whiskey Single Pot Still, a very enjoyable dram indeed. I was one of the early visitors to Dingle where the witty guide, an ex-guard, relieved me of ten of my euro, a fee I was glad to pay after an engaging visit. Good to see how the distillery has come on over the years. On the other hand, it is sad to see the newer Killarney Distillery in limbo but hopefully that will change some time soon.

Dick Mack's IPA

On the third night of our visit, we had dinner in the second of the Parknasilla restaurants, the Eliza Doolittle, named after a character in the George Bernard Shaw play Pygmalion.This is a relaxed place,  the social heart of the resort, and also serves excellent food (lunch and dinner). It is also the hotel's bar and the same drinks list is available here. Our sips for the night included a pint of that irresistible Sullivans and a drop of the Method and Madness Single Malt whiskey.

Excellent seasonal cider at Carry Out, Kenmare

There is so much to do here that you really don't have to travel outside the 500 acres osf seashore and woodland of the estate. But I had a hankering to walk to the top of Bray Head on Valentia Island. The pathway up has been much improved since my last visit but the fog was bad this morning and we had to turn back about two thirds of the way up this usually spectacular walk. On the way down, we stopped in the very friendly Skellig Seafront Restaurant for a scone and pastry and a cuppa and I noted they also sell the Waterville brewed McGill beer. Recommended if you find yourself strolling around Portmagee.

Foggy walk

Also recommended is a visit to Portmagee Whiskey with its unusual domed enclosures that include, a big surprise to me,  a traditional Seine Boat, boats that you may see in competitive action, with 12-man crews, at the Portmagee Regatta, the ultimate race of the season for an "uniquely localised sport". A few years back, a Bantry man told me, as we bumped across an angry bay in his rib, how he crewed one (they are distinctive and may also be called a long boat) from the town. Indeed, I have seen a bunch of them in competitive action once, not in Portmagee but at the mouth of the Bidasoa River as it enters the Atlantic Ocean between Hendaye in France and Hondarribbia in Spain.

The domes of Portmagee Whiskey and, below, the impressive Seine Boat that is displayed here.

We didn't of course forget the purpose of the visit and called to the shop onsite where, having sampled a few, I decided on one of the 9-year olds. Looking forward to trying that in due time.

Glass of Rosé in Eliza Doolittle

The booze cruise wasn't quite over yet and the Tom Cream brewery in Kenmare was our next stop. Here, on Saturdays, you may book a guided tour and hear the story of Tom Crean, Ireland's famous Antarctic explorer and of course taste their award-winning beers, including their latest, an non-alcoholic beer, with the apt name of Last Man Standing.

I've known these beers, brewed by Bill and Aileen, fairly well over the years and stocked up again, just to add to the tinkle of glass in the back of the car. Slainte! Or should I say Santé?

Also on this trip

Meals at Parknasilla Resort a highlight of three-day trip to County Kerry

Meals at Parknasilla Resort a highlight of three-day trip to County Kerry

 Meals at Parknasilla Resort a highlight of three-day trip to County Kerry

Pan Seared Fillet of Halibut (Roasted Fennel, White Asparagus Velouté, Crispy Hazelnut and Bacon)

No shortage of dining options at the magnificent 4-star Parknasilla Resort in County Kerry, situated on a prime coastal site between Kenmare and Sneem and with some 500 acres, much of it covered with trees, to walk up an appetite or perhaps to walk off any excess. 

Spiced Vegetables Tagine (Chickpeas, Cherry Tomatoes, Herb Cous Cous), Lamb option included. 

The main building, the hotel, has two dining rooms, the Pygmalion and the Eliza Doolittle called, respectively, after a 1913 play by George Bernard Shaw and a character in the play. Shaw was a regular visitor here and loved the place.

Chicken Liver Paté (Brioche, Hazelnut Crumble, Red Onion Jam, Port Reduction) 

Pygmalion  is the more “high class” of the two, not to say that Doolittle is in any way low class. But you will pay more and expect a little extra by way of fine food in Pygmalion and that is exactly what you’ll get. Pygmalion also offers Specials while Eliza does not!

Those specials are well worth checking out. Our Halibut was exquisite on the first night, the Pork Fillet on the second. You may see the full menus here https://parknasillaresort.com/pygmalion-menu.

Roast Medallions of Monkfish (Asparagus and Leek, Confit Cherry Tomato, Garlic Butter and Herb Velouté) 

The service, including from the bar (try a superb Sullivan’s Red Ale), was also excellent. Everything went like clockwork with time too for little hints and chats and big smiles.

Salmon Gravlax (Burnt Orange Gel, Blackened Citrus, Marmalade)

Our booking for the third night was in Eliza Doolittle and again we enjoyed it, start to finish. As a little bonus, the music was livelier than the piano in Pygmalion! And there was no slackening of the super service with everyone on the team playing a part making it a very pleasant experience.

Bacon Wrapped Fillet of Pork (Sautéed Savoy Cabbage, Chorizo, Apple Puree, Glazed Rainbow Carrot, Fig Chutney,
Red Wine Jus)

The menu is more accessible, for sure, and will suit family groups more. Remember, besides the hotel itself there are two groups of lodges and residences in the grounds. Highlight for us on the night were the Spiced Vegetables Tagine, enhanced by the added lamb, a dram of Method & Madness single malt and a surprisingly good Croix Des Vents Cinsault Rosé.

Pan Seared Fillet of Salmon (Courgette and Herb Orzo, Bell Pepper Puree, Cherry Tomato, Pine Nuts, Parmesan Cream)

Rosé

Besides the two main dining rooms, you may also pop into the Railway Express Barista Café for a cup of coffee or tea and a treat or visit the even more informal Tram Street Food.

If you can drag yourself away from all the food here, from the activities, including a variety of aquatic attractions, golf, tennis and kilometres of walks (children catered for also) and are looking for a midday snack, here are two that we availed. 

We rarely pass Maison Gourmet  in Kenmare. It is a busy spot but worth a little wait in the queue as their breads and pastries are on a par with anything you’ll find in a French town. 

Breakfast Pancakes

In Portmagee, on our way out of Valentia, we visited the very friendly Skellig Seafront Restaurant for a scone and pastry and a cuppa. Quite a large place, well situated by the harbour, where you can see the Skellig Islands boats come and go through the large window or, on a good day, you can sit outside, enjoy your food and the activity. And don’t forget to pay on the way out as they trust you on the way in!

Also on this trip:

A right royal booze cruise in the Kingdom (coming soon)

Pear Amandine