Smoke on the Water.
CorkBillyBeers #24
Began a two day trip to Mayo with a call to a micro brewery under the gaze of Croagh Patrick and the smoke on the water came later as we drove toward the lakes in the beautiful Doolough Valley as it was drifting high into the sky from a fire blazing on the slopes at the left hand side.
We had long made attempts to get to see the Mescan Brewery, makers of Belgian style craft beers and based in Cartoor, well off the road between Westport and Louisburgh. We got there eventually and met up with Cillian for a couple of sips and a chat.
Mescan beers are highly rated and rightly so. Amazing attention to detail and casks full of patience are required. He explained that his beers take a minimum of 4 months with the heavy ones getting 6-8 months where your normal craft beer takes just a few weeks from start to counter (can vary from brewer to brewer). While the extra time makes the Mescan more expensive, Cillian reckons it is very important for the quality of the beer. And it is indeed a premium product.
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| The beautiful Doolough Valley |
New beers here are tried out in 50 litre batches but he said you can never be sure, the results are never totally accurate and can be different when brewed in bulk!
But yes, the patience is well worth it as we found out when we sipped their Special Reserve (8.6% ABV). The famous Chimay Blue was the inspiration for this recipe and it is fantastic. Another superb special is the Baltic Porter, brewed with a lager yeast.
And later that evening, I was on the strong stuff again, this time thanks to Dermott of the lovely restaurant called The Pantry and Corkscrew in Westport. It was his last bottle of the Old Brown (delivery was due the next day) and it was absolutely enjoyable and I loved it as I knew I would - I did have a few over the past year or two. Talking about patience, this is matured in oak barrels for more than two years. Worth waiting for!!!
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| Flames spreading |
Not all the Mescan beers are super strong. Take the lager for instance. That weighs in at 4.5% and is one of the very best around. Had one of those as well in the Pantry and Corkscrew.
Cillian is a busy man. A few days earlier he had been in Dublin doing a collaboration with Whiplash. In March, he was in the capital for the “Me Auld Flower Festival” in a historic building that used to be home to the Dublin City Fruit, Veg and Flower Market.
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| Smoke rising from the water in the valley |
It was emotional for Cillian, a Dub himself: ”My great great grandfather, Patrick Moran, took the first stall in those markets after they were opened in 1893. He moved into Arran House on the corner ….. and our family lived there for over a 100 years. I remember growing up there and the Warden letting me and my older brother Paddy ring the end of market bell each day - 50 years ago.”
And if you want to try out Mescan beers and much more then head to the Grainne Ale Festival on the Saturday and Sunday of this Bank Holiday weekend - 29th & 30th April 2023! "Come choose from a range of beers from local independent breweries in the beer garden of Gracy’s Pizzeria and Bistro at Westport House."
Our sips and chats over, we said goodbye to Cillian and to Theo (a Frenchman doing the work while we were talking) and, with directions, headed off cross country to Doolough.
This is one of the most beautiful corners of the country but loaded with sadness too because of what happened here during the famine, such sadness among such beauty. Disappointed to see the smoke rising though as we got closer but there were fireman and helpers on the scene and they soon got it under control though it left a nasty black scar on the slopes.
With the smoke cleared we got a great view of the lakes and the mountains, probably the clearest day we’ve enjoyed here. A highly recommended drive and just a few minutes from Louisburgh (check out its lovely Portuguese café TIA).
On our way back to the hotel in Westport, we made a stop at the Croagh Patrick carpark. No, not to climb the famous mountain but to cross the road and reflect as we looked at the marvellous National Famine Memorial, the Coffin Ship by sculptor John Behan. More sadness.
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| Detail from the Famine Ship (above) |
* If you'd like to visit Mescan, they are open to visitors most Friday afternoons through the summer - online booking required here.
Also on this trip
Superb Dining At Westport's The Pantry & Corkscrew
Achill Island in the sun. And wind.
Sipping Mescan Beer. Doolough Valley.
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