On the craft trail with Tom Crean and Dungarvan Brewing Company.

On the craft trail with Tom Crean and Dungarvan Brewing Company

Tom Crean’s Family Six Magpies Stout, 4.2% ABV, 500 ml bottle, O’Donovan’s Off Licence

“We want to produce beer that doesn’t cost the earth” - Bill Sheppard co-founder

Six Mapgpies Stout from the Tom Crean Family brewhouse is a multi-grain cracker, also a multi-award winner.

It pours black as a bog hole with an inviting tanned Lacey head. You don't have to wait to fill your glass for those traditional caramel coffee aromas as they waft straight up once you flip the cap. And all the early promises are fulfilled in the mouth with a perfect feel. Note also the subtle hops and malts getting together in a smooth dance that ends in the most refreshing way.

A terrific stout which is “all-natural, no additives, chemicals and vegan. The healthy option, drink in moderation…. a traditional Irish stout, triple hopped and reminiscent of stouts before the addition of nitrogen.”

It has been a while since I enjoyed one, and I'm glad that the local O’Donovans have stocked this and other beers from the Kenmare brewery, founded and owned by the dynamic duo Aileen Crean O'Brien and her husband, Bill Sheppard.

The stout combines 6 grain types, but that’s not where the name comes from! So where did the name come from? Brewer Bill was trying to settle on a name when he heard an almighty racket overhead. Looking up to the trees, he saw a bunch of pesky noisy magpies, six in all. He was aware of the old saying about the noisy bird: one for sorrow, Two for joy, Three for a girl, Four for a boy, Five for silver, Six for gold, And, of course, it just went and won gold, twice, at Blas! Very Highly Recommended. The beer, that is, not counting magpies!

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Dungarvan Helvick Head Irish Blonde Ale, 4.9% ABV

refreshingly easy to drink

Our Irish Blonde has a deep golden colour and a soft white head. It’s a well balanced beer with fruit and hops to the fore, the fruitiness in the aromas, the hoppiness more on the palate. “Our blonde ale is not a bland ale,” they rightly declare. It’s a flavour-packed ride all the way to a refreshing dry finish.

They say: Helvick is a great summer’s day drink, perfect for cracking out at the barbeque. Enjoy at cellar temperature (8—14°C) or cooler for a great warm-weather thirst quencher. It’s an excellent beer to pair with food.

And that food? Good with spicy foods, or try it with seafood — the citrus of the cascade hops provides the perfect accompaniment to fish and shellfish without overpowering the flavours. Goes well with a variety of cheese also. Check it all out here.

The craft beer beginner will find some other beers better to start off with but this complex ale, with its firm and bold flavours, will keep the more experienced very much onside. It is much touted as a summer beer but I’ve found it quite the perfect companion in the other seasons. Highly Recommended.

Enjoy at cellar temperature (8-14°C) or cooler. As with all our beers, Helvick Gold contains a vitamin-rich yeast sediment in the bottle which is a by-product of the natural carbonation. To pour a clear pint, pour out in one go and leave the last drop in the bottle. However, this is purely for aesthetic reasons and the sediment is absolutely fine to drink.   

Geek Bits -

Style: Blonde Ale

ABV: 4.9%

Hops: Cascade, East Kent Goldings, Northern Brewer

IBUs: 41

Time you met the big, bold seducer. Pasquale Petrera ‘Fatalone’ Gioia del Colle Primitivo .

Pasquale Petrera ‘Fatalone’ Gioia del Colle (DOC) Primitivo Riserva 2020, 16% ABV

€23.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Time you met Fatalone, the big, bold seducer.

The colour, emblematic of the grape, is an intense ruby. As expected, the aromatics feature ripe dark fruit (black cherry, plum). The flavours, dark fruits again, are forward, and the smooth and velvety palate experience also includes spice notes. It is full-bodied, rich in minerality and freshness, and has an extended finish with an almond aftertaste (typical of the Primitivo grape in this area).

The winemaker suggests pairings such as strongly flavoured dishes like pasta with gravy, roasted beef, game, and grilled meat, as well as fish and aged cheese. The Riserva is also particularly pleasant with dark chocolate sweets. Best served at 18°- 20°C.

Importers Le Caveau: ‘Fatalone’ means seducer in the local dialect and well-named as it is a perfect balance of smoothness, freshness and minerality. It spends 12 months in wine stainless steel tanks, 12 months in Slavonic oak 750-litre-casks with the application of music therapy to optimise the spontaneous micro oxygenation process and improve the fining of the wine, then finished by 6 months in bottle.”

According to Wine-Searcher.com, Primitivo probably arrived in Puglia (where you’ll find Fatalone) from the coastal vineyards of Croatia (just across the Adriatic Sea). “It is still grown there today, under various tongue-twisting names including Tribidrag and Crljenak Kasteljanski. In the early 19th century, the variety was introduced to the United States, under the name Zinfandel.”

The Mains are tried and tested and the Specials at Isaac's are well worth checking

The Mains are tried and tested, and the Specials at Isaac's are well worth checking

Isaac’s Restaurant on McCurtain Street has been a sterling staple of the Cork City dining scene for 32 years. Since its inception by Michael and Catherine Ryan and Canice Sharkey, it has consistently provided quality dining experiences. No wonder the punters keep flocking in for more. Open every day, except on Bank Holidays, Isaac’s is a well-run restaurant where you can dine with confidence, as confirmed once again during a recent visit. 

Even though they have little left to prove, they keep manifesting they're top class every night of the week. Here, attention to detail ensures customers consistently receive well-sourced, well-cooked meals presented with a smile. The friendly staff are courteous and provide helpful advice when needed. 

 Mild Madras Lamb Curry with basmati rice, poppadum & side dishes.

The curry (above) has been on the menu for decades and remains as enjoyable as ever, with a superb vegetarian version also available. Other enduring favourites include Skeaghanore Duck Confit served with champ, caramelized onions, and a duck thyme jus, as well as a Crispy Fried Brie starter. And of course, steak is always on. Besides, they are excellent with fish (as that cod dish below illustrates). 

In addition to the popular main menu items, Isaac's also offers a dynamic list of specials that keep things interesting. On last week's visit, there were seven specials available, including:

- Seared Scallop Salad with Clonakilty black pudding, crispy pancetta, and pea puree

- Smoked Cod Croquettes with romesco sauce and mixed Horizon leaf salad

- Pan-fried fillets of Seabass with chorizo potato, tender stem broccoli, and chive sauce

- Casserole of Lamb Shank with chive champ

- Oven-baked fillet of Cod with a crab crust, potato rosti cake, savoy cabbage, and beurre blanc

The variety on offer is impressive!

An excellent Sauvignon Blanc from a family-owned sustainable vineyard in New Zealand
enhanced last week's dinner at Isaac's.

The wine list is thoughtfully curated, featuring all the main grape varieties. Among the whites, you'll find Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and Albarino, while the reds include Tempranillo, Malbec, and Valpolicella. Sauvignon Blanc is notably popular, with three options available. The Rhône region is well represented in the reds. House wines, both red and white, are priced at €31.00 per bottle or €9.50 per glass. Rosé, Champagne, and dessert wines are also offered.

When you add in the comfort, attentive service, and central location, Isaac’s truly stands out as a winning choice for dining.

Opening hours here from their Facebook page.

Duck confit

Chestnut Meets Rare for One Night Only

press release 

For One Night Only

Chestnut Meets Rare

A West Cork Collaboration as Rob Krawczyk of Restaurant Chestnut joins Meeran Manzoor at Rare at Blue Haven in Kinsale

Rob (left) and Meeran

For one night only, on April 13th, two of West Cork’s finest chefs will collaborate to create a special tasting menu.

The evening promises a unique dining experience that celebrates the best of local, seasonal ingredients with the combined creativity of both chefs. Meeran and Rob are committed to local, seasonal food, using the rich abundance of West Cork’s larder to bring their menus to

Maneki Japanese Cuisine & Karaoke Box Where Dublin Comes to Sing, Dine, and Celebrate. Sushi will never be the same!

  Sushi will never be the same!

Thanks to Pixabay!

Maneki Japanese Cuisine & Karaoke Box
Where Dublin Comes to Sing, Dine, and Celebrate

 

Bringing the flavours and electric energy of Tokyo’s nightlife to the heart of Dublin city centre, Maneki Japanese Cuisine & Karaoke Box is the ultimate destination for those who love great food, fun and music. Located at 43 Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Maneki offers a unique blend of modern Japanese cuisine, high-tech karaoke, and a lively

On the craft trail with Dungarvan Brewery and Elbow Lane

On the craft trail with Dungarvan Brewery

Russel Garet
Elbow Lane brewer

and Elbow Lane

Elbow Lane Angel Stout 4.4% ABV, on draught in Goldie

Available in Market Lane restaurants in bottles (all), in draught (some)

A stout made for the restaurants' food!

Great to renew my acquaintance with Angel Stout at a recent dinner in Goldie Restaurant (Cork). 

Elbow Lane’s Angel Stout is one of the best, a superb combination of hops and malt, made with the Market Lane restaurant's food in mind. Both Goldie and Elbow, along with ORSO, Castle Café and Market Lane itself make up the five in the group.

My very first sip the other evening confirmed previous impressions as the roasted malt showed well in the flavour. The hops - Hercules Germany, Pilgrim UK and Willamette USA - go in early in the process, and their bittering qualities make for a lovely balance, a delicious pint and even better with the dishes that follow.

It has a distinct malt character and pronounced hop bitterness, typical of the style. Dark roasted malts contribute to the bittersweet chocolate notes, while a generous hop addition lends to a dry but smooth finish. This stout will suit robust dishes like steak, stews and curries. And I found it went very well with their Oyster Paté, a relatively new dish from renowned Head Chef Aiushling Moore.

Elbow Lane is one of the few Irish breweries that strictly adheres to the principles of the ancient German Purity Law, “Reinheitsgebot”, which means that only four ingredients are used: malted barley, hops, yeast and water. There are no additives and the fermentation of the beer is not artificially accelerated, nor is it filtered – so it is all totally natural. 

Dungarvan Mine Head American PA, 5.5% ABV

 one for your short list

The brewery had a plan as they developed Mine Head. It would be dry-hopped, a process of adding whole leaf hops into the fermenter. This gives more of a hop aroma to the beer and a fresh initial hit of the hop flavours. 

And, with the Cascade hop the only one used, that is exactly what happened.

Cascade, of course, goes hand in hand with the American Pale Ale. Here, you notice it straightaway with that initial hoppy hit in the aromas, rising from an amber body topped by a soft white head. That hoppy hit is easily confirmed by the old finger-in-the-head test - stick it in and suck it!

Then, it is citrus all the balanced way, with a teeny touch of marmalade sweetness later on and that bitter at the end but nothing over the top. A pleasant and harmonious beer indeed. Another one for your shortlist.

Food pairings suggested by Dungarvan are spicy Thai or Vietnamese food, or “keep it American with a burger! Works great with lighter fish or with earthy meats such as lamb or beef. Great with a creamy camembert-style cheese or a tart sheeps cheese. Best served lightly chilled, from 8-12°C”.

The name: Mine Head is a high headland west of Dungarvan; it and its lighthouse form a dramatic landmark on the Atlantic Coast.

Geek Bits - 

Style: American Pale Ale

ABV: 5.5%

Hops: Cascade

IBUs: 38

Féile Tom Crean in Kenmare 11th-13th April 2025

 

Vin vivant, a living wine, "full of taste". Château Moulin De Peyronin Bordeaux.

Château Moulin De Peyronin Bordeaux (AC) 2021, 12.5% ABV

Sourced from Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal).

Widely available at €18.00 to €21.00

 

Vin vivant, living wine, "full of taste"

A smooth and supple wine from Bordeaux’s Chateau de Peyronin. The vineyard may be found in the Entre-Deux-Mers area, perhaps the most scenic of the entire Bordeaux vineyard. The aromatic wine is, as you’d expect, a blend (60% Merlot, 20% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon), and it is organic.

It is highly aromatic, packed with sensations of cherry, raspberry and blueberry. The same fruit and spicy elements also enliven the palate. A nice touch of acidity helps to balance it, and the finish is dry and lengthy. It is well-structured and a terrific match for red meats and many cheeses (including Gubbeen!). Serve at 17 degrees. Silky and fruit-driven, it is a wine that is heartily recommended.

The Château itself is a historic property, a lovely example of traditional French architecture often associated with wine estates and vineyards. It is also a popular location for wine tourism, where the “happy owners” offer guided tours, tastings, and the opportunity to explore the beautiful surroundings.

Owners Véronique and Franck, who had met while students at the local Lycée Agricole de Libourne-Montagne, began their adventure at Château Moulin de Peyronin in 2006. The two 25-year-olds now had over 14 ha of vines on their hands.  It had been managed organically since 1975. They continued on that road and went on to convert the vineyard to Biodynamics during the year 2017.

Château Fuissé Tête De Cuvée. A gem from the benchmark estate of Pouilly Fuissé

Château Fuissé Tête De Cuvée Pouilly Fuissé (AC) 2022, 13.5% ABV.

€41.95 O’Briens Wine

"From the benchmark estate of Pouilly Fuissé"

The colour is a limpid yellow with green tints. Lime and tropical fruits head up the aromatics. White fruit (lime again), faint almond notes, and a subtle minerality feature on the smooth and silky palate. Its time in oak (two-thirds of the wine is aged in oak, with 20% of that new oak) helps give it a rich and complex flavour profile. The great length confirms that you have one of the best Chardonnays in your glass.

An unmissable exceptional wine, say importers O’Briens: “Easily one of the most keenly priced fine Burgundies you can get your hands on today.”  O’Briens are not on their own here as the wine is widely and highly regarded: “This is a brilliant blend of the appellation” and “Classic, fresh and precise with pleasant density” are other plaudits.

The Pouilly-Fuissé appellation is known for producing some of the best white wines in the world. It is the home of the finest white wines of southern Burgundy's Maconnais district. They are produced exclusively from Chardonnay grapes grown locally. According to Wine-Searcher.com, the typical Pouilly-Fuissé wine is full-bodied, ripe and relatively elegant, with the best examples rivalling the finer wines of the Côte de Beaune. 

Ernest Hemingway was quite a fan of Burgundy, especially the Macon (where Château Fuissé is located). In  A Moveable Feast (1964), Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway went on the tear: "We had a marvellous lunch from the hotel at Lyon, an excellent truffled roast chicken, delicious bread and white Mâcon wine and Scott was very happy when we drank the white Maconnais at each of our stops. At Mâcon I had bought four more bottles of excellent wine which I uncorked as we needed them.”

There are quite a few suggestions for food pairings on the Vin De Bourgogne website, including patés and terrines, Brie, sushi, chicken in cream sauce, grilled chicken breast, and veal in the sauce. The website is well worth visiting.

Bird's Eye View of Cork Harbour from Fota Wild Wildlife Park's New Attraction

Bird's Eye View of Cork Harbour from Fota Wild Wildlife Park's New Attraction

Photos taken 9th March 2025

From 13th March to 8th June, visitors will have the opportunity to experience the Panoramic Wheel, offering a never-before-seen aerial view of the park and its stunning surroundings. Based inside Fota Wildlife Park, this will be an optional, paid-for experience, with tickets for the Panoramic Wheel available at a separate ticketing booth from €5 per individual.

The Giraffe is no longer the tallest attraction at Fota.

Heron

Gibbon having a swing

Guinea Fowl

Ostrich

Pride

Rhino Munch