Monday, January 13, 2025

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Garganega Veneto. A simple wine without frills but lively and mineral

Angiolino Maule, La Biancara, Masieri Garganega Veneto (IGT) 2022, 11.5%

€21.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny



A simple wine but lively and mineral, without frills



Straw yellow is the colour of this organic white from the Veneto region of northwestern Italy. The aromatics have delicate citrusy notes. The big “hello” comes on the palate, where a tart lemon and lime combo more or less ambushes the drinker. The acidity balances the fruit, and a lingering finish follows, which is always a good sign.

The producers sum it up well: It's a simple wine but lively and mineral, without frills. I agree and am happy to give it the Very Highly Recommended tag.

La Biancara was established at the end of the 1980s, when pizza makers Angiolino and Rosamaria Maule bought a small plot of land, about six hectares, in the hills of Gambellara. Since then, they have worked to develop their personal idea of wine: a wine created by the exaltation of nature, without chemical interferences in the vineyard or in the cellar, to obtain the highest expression of terroir in every bottle. 

A few years back, at a Veneto Masterclass in Dublin, Dario Poddana (Les Caves de Pyrene) praised the Maule family and said they were at the forefront of the natural wine movement, and not just in Italy.


Masieri is made (mostly) from Garganega grapes. Vino Italiano, which praises the vineyard (as does the World Atlas of Wine), says it could be argued that the (white) wines are purer expressions of Garganega than those of neighbouring Soave. Garganega is thought by some to be related to the Greco (another Mediterranean grape that I like) of southern Italy.

Check the Le Caveau list for other wines from this marvellous wine-making family.

Friday, January 10, 2025

The impressive Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone. "no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers"

Le P’tit Martin Côtes Du Rhone (AOC) 2023, 14% ABV, 

€24.00 at Matsons (Bandon, Grange and Youghal)



no pesticides, chemical fertilisers or weed killers


Quite an impressive Côtes Du Rhone. By the way, the designation is AOC, the generic one rather than a village, but it is still a good one, especially on the fruity and spicy palate. It has quite a depth of tarty red and black fruit flavour. Overall, this ruby red wine, aromatic and packed with flavour, is excellent and Very Highly Recommended.


It is a blend of 66% Syrah and 34% Grenache Noir, just two of the more than twenty grape varieties allowed by the Côtes Du Rhone AOC. Serve cool with grilled red meats, charcuterie boards, cheeses, and pork and chicken dishes.


Wine has been produced in the area for hundreds of years, with the beginnings of the designation coming in 1650 with rules to protect authenticity and guarantee quality.

Frost has had a major influence on the wine story here. In 1956, the famous Mistral Wind (still an influence), battered the region for three weeks, reaching a velocity of over one hundred kilometres per hour and dropping to a temperature of minus 15 degrees centigrade.

Most of the region's olive trees suffered serious frost damage but the vines resisted so well that the majority of the local farmers decided to turn over primarily to vine cultivation.

At the Oratoire Saint-Martin, they use no pesticides, chemical fertilizers or weed killers. The estate is certified as organic by Ecocert and biodynamic by Demeter.

Wednesday, January 8, 2025

Blarney Castle Gardens. Through The Seasons 2024

Blarney Castle Gardens.

Through The Seasons 2024 

Laburnum in May

January daffodil display


Same three trees - Feb, May, November


April abundance of Wild Garlic and Bluebells

Merry month of May

Pergola with Wisteria

Carnivorous (June)

Pergola in July

Castle and Tower

August arch

Fly Agaric Fungus (October)

Autumn colours


Frosty morning in winter.











Saturday, January 4, 2025

Memorable dishes from 2024. Cork, Carlow, Galway, Kerry, Waterford and Wexford

Memorable dishes from 2024

Clams at Farol

From Cork, Carlow, Galway, Kerry, Waterford and Wexford


Ethnic

Portuguese

Farol Tapas in Sunday’s Well. Their Ameijoas a Farol – succulent clams bathed in a fragrant garlic-white wine sauce with a touch of heat – were simply exquisite.


Thai. 

BAHT, an authentic Thai Dining Experience In Carlow. Check it here.


Italian. Da Mirco’s. Try the Maccheroni Ragu Di Salsiccia, a fantastic dish of homemade macaroni served in an Italian sausage and rosemary ragu, topped with a mix of bread crumbs and grated parmesan.

Cod at Greene's


Fish

Lobster at The Cornstore: Terrific appetiser of Mini Lobster Rolls with buttered brioche and the Atlantic Lobster.

Glenmar Scallops at Greene’s, served cold, with a lively and lovely Coriander and Lime Sauce, Chilli, Kohlrabi, and Crispy Quinoa

Cod, also at Greene’s: Cod (fish of the day), perfectly cooked and accompanied by Peperonata, Samphire, and Parsley Butter.

Trout Double at La Cote Wexford: starter - The Gravlax of Sea Trout with Goatsbridge Trout Caviar, Herb Potato, and French Mustard was a revelation 

Oysters at Moran’s Oyster Cottage, Kilcolgan, Co. Galway. Local Oysters Three ways!

Crab at Jacques. Castletownbere Crab Salad, adorned with Strawberries, Balsamic, and Black Pepper. 

Hake at The Lodge (Myrtleville). Hake with Zaatar. Zaatar, a Levantine culinary herb or family of herbs, is also the name of a spice mixture. It is hugely versatile at the table, as we found in the popular venue when it was used to “crust” a delicious piece of Hake.

Prawn Cocktail at the Garryvoe Hotel. Their famous Dublin Bay Prawn Cocktail, Crisp Gem Lettuce, Sauce Marie Rose® & Homemade Brown Bread”.

Chowder at Greene’s. Ballycotton Fresh and Smoked Fish, Mussels, Clams, and Pana Bread (. Rich and creamy, the flavour was outstanding.

Lamb at Monks Lane


Lamb

Lamb Slowcooked at Monks Lane. Lamb slow-cooked Spanish-style lamb (was a revelation. The menu description, mentioning "herb potatoes" and "flaked almonds," didn't quite do it justice. This was a rich, flavourful stew packed with tender lamb, a medley of fresh vegetables, and a scattering of almonds that added a delightful textural contrast. It was so good


Slow Cooked Braised Lamb Shank at Farmgate Lismore — the meat falls off the bone, bathed in a fragrant rosemary lamb jus, accompanied by creamy spring onion champ and a vibrant carrot and swede purée.


Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder at the MET Bar & Restaurant - McCarthy’s, boasting melt-in-your-mouth lamb complemented by pickled watermelon rind, roasted squash & beets, and a delightful surprise – Channa masala chickpeas.


The Glass Curtain Rack of Lamb, crushed artichoke, pistachio, glazed lamb belly and celeriac. Another superb dish from an accomplished kitchen.

Ichigo Ichie


Duck

Ichigo Ichie’s Skeaghanore Duck with Hay Leek, grilled scallion, leaves, Sansho salt and an unexpected garnish of potato with Nori that went down very well.


Pasta

Pasta Salsicca e Fiarelli at Bramley Lodge. The salsicca is Italian sausage and there were also wilted greens, pancetta and saffron. Excellent.

Misunderstood Heron


Food Trucks & Market Stalls

Stall - Kay’s English Market - The popular Fish Box includes Panko Crumbed Haddock, Fish Cake, Smoked Salmon Croquettes, Fried Potatoes, Salad, and Dip. Tasty stuff!

Food Trucks - Misunderstood Heron (Connemara) - Pork - Achiote (a natural orange-red condiment) + Orange Pork + Rice + Charred Red Pepper + Salsa

View from Killeen House, Killarney


Best Hotel Breakfast.

At Rozzers at Killeen House, Killarney. Look out for the fish offering every morning! More here.


Top Brunch

At On The Pig’s Back in Douglas: Oeufs Pochés  à la Bretonne. Oh la la!


Top Quiche


At Proby’s Kitchen. The lunchtime quiche featured Warm Leek, feta and Cavolo Nero with seasonal leaves.

Nadur Deli.


Best Pastry

The pistachio white chocolate and blueberry at Nadur Deli.


Outstanding Curry


The Lodge (Myrtleville)  - the comforting warmth of a North Indian-style Baigan Aloo Tanatar (eggplant, potatoes, and tomatoes) simmered in a symphony of curry spices. Add in a side of rice, and enjoy!



Steak

Looking for steak? Head to MacCurtain Street, Food Street of the Year in Cork. 

The Glass Curtain offers a porterhouse steak, with bone marrow jus, for sharing.

Next door, Thompsons have quite a variety of aged steaks via Kanturk butcher Jack McCarthy, complete with some superb sauces and sides.

Just up the street, Greene’s offers a little theatrical touch as their steaks are served on the stone, always an eye-catcher and also a palate pleaser.


Burger

Wagyu at Thompsons. McCarthy’s Wagyu is not among the steak offerings but has a starring role in this Burger, along with shredded lettuce, homemade pickles, Coolea Cheddar, and roasted garlic aioli. Not to mention chunky house fries. 

Mullicháin Café, Carlow


Pie

Gallaghers claim the original Beef and Beamish Pie (Beamish stout, braised beef and root vegetables, topped with a crispy puff pastry). It has been on their menu since they opened. They serve it with fries or mashed potatoes. I chose the mash, which worked very well. They also do a superb fish pie!


Soup

French Onion Soup at Market Lane - French Onion Soup has been featured at Market Lane since 2009. The current version, featuring Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons, is one of the best yet and is a fantastic starter. 


Hidden Gem

Mullicháin Café, Carlow. Nestled along the picturesque River Barrow in St. Mullins, Co. Carlow, the Mullicháin Café is a charming oasis that offers a delightful blend of history, cuisine, and natural beauty. Oh yes, good food too!

Tuesday, December 24, 2024

Happy Christmas and all the best for 2025

Happy Christmas and all the best for 2025
(See you at the other side!)

Photos from Wexford's Cuan Aingeal. 
In memory of all the children and young people who have died tragically in the county.


Sunday, December 22, 2024

Whiplash Reckoner Strata IPA. Beer of the Week. A hop lover’s dream come true

Whiplash Reckoner Strata IPA, 6.3% ABV, 440 ml can 

A strataspheric beer that is a hop lover’s dream come true



The colour is a light to mid-gold. The hazy beer has a good mix of tropical fruit aromas with dank notes. Fruit flavours (Pineapple and Passionfruit) are outstanding on the palate. Whiplash certainly hit the bullseye here as they so often do and have come up with yet another beautifully balanced beer and a terrific example of an IPA, our Beer of the Week.


The only hops used are Strata, which account for the bold and complex flavours. Whiplash claims that the stratospheric beer “is a hop lover’s dream come true.


Sure is, and it is Very Highly Recommended.


Founded in 2016, the Dublin-based Whiplash draws inspiration from the best traditional and modern beers to craft an impressive range that has earned it quite a following.


Geek Bits:

Malts - Maris Otter, Wheat Malt, Oat Malt, Carapils.

Hops: Strata

UK Units: 2.8

See the fully updated Beer of the Week listings here.

Taste of Christmas #6.Coffee Break? Try Maher's Italian Blend.

Taste of Christmas #6

Time for a coffee break?

Try Maher's Italian Blend.

Cooking up a storm in the Christmas kitchen? Don't forget to take your well-deserved coffee break. Mahers Italian Blend is just the job. Popular in many local restaurants, a cuppa at home these busy days will give you just the boost you need. Note the new packaging (with a brief version of the family firm's story on the reverse). Your counter order is now packed in this attractive package. And, for added convenience, it is resealable!

Saturday, December 21, 2024

Beaumont Des Crayère NV, Grande Réserve Brut. A star of Champagne's Marne Valley. Taste of Christmas #5

Taste of Christmas #5
Champagne, of course.
Beaumont Des Crayère NV, Grande Réserve Brut
O'Briens Wine Stores
ABV is 12.50% and it is now on offer at €34.95 (usually 38.95)




 

Champagne always turns up when there’s a celebration. But, with Christmas and the New Year on the horizon, you may ask which one? I usually have a bottle of Beaumont Des Crayère NV, Grande Réserve Brut, on hand. 

This Réserve from a quality-focused cooperative in Champagne's Marne Valley is an absolute star. Made with 75% black grape varieties with extended lees ageing, it’s a richer style of Champagne with fine, persistent bubbles and really holds its own against much more expensive sparklers. An expressively fruity aroma profile with a balanced palate it is lively before a long, slightly spiced finish. Most of you will know that Brut means dry.