The Michelin Stars and Bibs

ANOTHER DUBLIN RESTAURANT GETS 2017 MICHELIN STAR

GUIDE HIGHLIGHTS ‘RICH DIVERSITY AND VARIETY’ OF IRELAND’S RESTAURANT SCENE

Heron & Grey restaurant in Dublin’s Blackrock village has been awarded a Michelin star in the 2017 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland just published.

Located on Blackrock’s Main Street, Heron & Grey is a restaurant whose owners say ‘is focused on serving modern international cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere with a menu that changes on a bi-weekly basis’.

The addition of Heron & Grey to the Guide increases to 10 the overall number of Michelin star restaurants in the Republic of Ireland. Others that hold their awards from previous years are the Two Michelin star Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and One Michelin star Chapter One, L’Ecrivain and The Greenhouse (Dublin City), Aniar and Loam restaurants (Galway City), Campagne and Lady Helen at Mount Juliet Hotel (Kilkenny) and House Restaurant at Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore (Waterford).

In Northern Ireland, two Belfast restaurants - Eipic (Howard Street) and Ox (Oxford Street) have also retained their Michelin star status.

New Bib Gourmand addition in Northern Ireland 

Also in Northern Ireland, Wine & Brine in Moira, Co. Armagh is awarded a Bib Gourmand listing, increasing to six the number of Northern Ireland establishments holding a Bib Gourmand in this year’s Guide. 

Bib Gourmand is an award that recognises establishments offering good food at affordable prices of EUR40 (Stg£28) or less for a three-course meal. Others that retain their awards from last year are Belfast-based Deanes at Queen’s, Bar+Grill at James Street South, and Home, along with Old Schoolhouse Inn (Lisbane, Newtownards) and Fontana (Holywood).

In the Republic of Ireland, 16 establishments retain their Bib Gourmand status. They are: 1826 Adare (Adare, Co. Limerick); The Courthouse (Carrickmacross, Co. Monaghan); Café Hans (Cashel, Co. Tipperary); Sha-Roe Bistro (Clonegal, Co. Carlow); Chart House (Dingle, Co. Kerry); Aldridge Lodge (Duncannon, Co. Wexford); Copper Hen (Tramore, Co. Waterford); Giovannelli (Killorglin, Co. Kerry); Bastion and Fishy Fishy (both Kinsale, Co. Cork); Wild Honey Inn (Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare) plus five recipients in Dublin City - Delahunt (Camden Street), Etto (Merrion Row), Pichet (Trinity Street), Pig’s Ear (Nassau Street) and Pigeon House (Clontarf).

For the wider guidance of readers and visitors to Ireland, this year’s Michelin Guide lists a total of 371 establishments in the Republic of Ireland and 74 in Northern Ireland, including many that offer overnight accommodation.

Speaking at its launch, Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland editor, Rebecca Burr, noted that this year’s edition highlights ‘the rich diversity and variety’ of Ireland’s restaurant scene.

“Every year we actively seek out new candidates whilst reassessing restaurants already in the guide. Consistency is key," she said. 

Published today by leading tyre manufacturer Michelin, the Great Britain & Ireland 2017 Guide is priced at EUR18.99 and is available in bookshops and at http://travel.michelin.co.uk/

Press release

Spirit of Dingle Coming Soon.

On the 18th of December 2012, a week before Christmas, the Dingle Distillery started making whiskey. You may well see the results around this Christmas, as the whiskey has now served more than the necessary three years and one day in 700 litre capacity oak barrels.  The period time, the oak and the barrel size are all mandatory, we were told on a tour during last weekend’s Dingle Food Festival.

It looks as if it may be a Happy Christmas for Dingle and for the “Founding Fathers”. These pioneers could also be called the Funding Fathers as it was their money that got the project off the ground, each offering up about six thousand euro for a cask in his or her own name. We saw quite a few of the barrels during the tour and there is also a founding fathers’ wall with all the names inscribed.

Making Gin and Vodka, in Irish

The Spirit of Dingle, with the mouth of the harbour featured, is the name of a painting by a local artist that inspired the setting up of the distillery. And that view can be seen from the gates of the distillery which stands on the western edge of the town.

Like all whiskeys, Dingle’s goes through three main stages: fermentation, distillation and maturation. Yeast is added during fermentation and when it sinks to the bottom, that is the end of the fermentation (see timber fermentation vessels in 2x pic slideshow at bottom). By the way, if you can manage a sniff of a vessel when the yeast is active, it is a great way to clear a stuffy nose! Just don’t overdo it – it is potent!

At end of fermentation, the incipient whiskey has an abv of about 10 % , much like a very strong beer. By the end of the next stage the distilling, the abv has risen to 80 or 85%. It is “cut” with water later to bring the strength down to the normal 40%.

The process in Dingle though is distinguished by the use of a boil bowl on two of the copper stills. This gives what you need for nice, smooth spirit: plenty of reflux. This  built-in bulge (see 2 x pic slide show below) in the neck  – other stills have long slim necks – means the vapour doesn’t all rise right up and condense beyond the drop. You need it to condense and fall back into the still a few times before it eventually condenses and drips into the receiver. And so, to get this smooth spirit before maturation, was why  Dingle modified their still design.

I didn’t know that barrels used for the maturation of Irish whiskey had to be a certain size but I did know that the barrels have already been used elsewhere, “secondhand” as our guide Shane termed it. The barrels used most in Dingle have previously held Bourbon, Port, and Sherry. By the way, there is a constant evaporation during maturation, the often quoted Angels’ Share.

 

 

Shane then showed us a smaller area where their gin and vodka are produced in a much simpler way, though the gin process “is a little bit more difficult”.  Interestingly, Dingle uses no less than 13 botanicals in their very popular gin. All the bottling is done on site.

And the site has been in use, on and off, since 1840 when it started life as a flour mill. I spotted an old mill-wheel in storage. A fire destroyed this first business and later, in 1914, a lumber firm took over.

We were then taken to the tasting room and introduced to the main ingredients: malted barley, milled barley and yeast. Here, we enjoyed a taste of the vodka and the gin. No whiskey to taste, of course, but we did get a drop of the “raw spirit” with an abv of about 65%. Hot stuff, yet it tasted quite smooth  – “a good sign” said Shane.

Good things to come, then, from those whiskey casks. All at Dingle and, indeed a wider audience, are looking forward to the day in the very near future when Cask No. 2 is opened. (Cask No. 1 will be kept closed in perpetuity!). Happy Christmas with the spirit of Dingle!

See also: Driving the Dingle Peninsula
Dingle and its massive Food Festival

Amuse Bouche

‘Would you like some tea?’ asked the nurse, whose name was Lydia Wong. It was the first time I had tasted Lapsang Souchong, which smelled of burnt pine and tar. If I drink it nowadays I am reminded immediately of that day when I was a stand-in for the US Navy. ‘Do you like this tea?’ the nurse asked. “This is a poor man’s tea, made from the most inferior tea leaves. It is roasted and that way the flavour is released. It is very good for sex. It is good for women before sex. I always drink it.’

from Please Enjoy Your Happiness by Paul Brinkley-Rogers 2016 (Very Highly Recommended)

JOHN AND SALLY MCKENNA ARE BLAS NA hEIREANN PRODUCERS CHAMPIONS

Neven does the honours!

Food writers John and Sally McKenna have been named Producers Champions at this year’s Blas na hEireann Irish Food Awards.  The couple were nominated through a survey of all of the producers on the Blas database.
The award was created three years ago as a way for Blas na hEireann to acknowledge the work of people who help to spread the word about Irish produce.
“We asked producers to vote for whom they felt was doing the most for Irish food and drink both at home and abroad and if they wanted to build a dream team, who would they have on it? John and Sally McKenna came back as the resounding winners. I’m delighted because they have been supporting those producers and telling their stories for more than 30 years” said Awards chairperson Artie Clifford.
The winner of the first year’s Producers’ Champion Award, chef Neven Maguire was in Dingle to present the award to John and Sally McKenna.
“I can think of no-one more deserving of this award” said Neven Maguire.
“What they have done for Irish food is phenomenal. There has never been a better time to be in Irish food and John and Sally McKenna stand for everything that is good about it with their continuous support for chefs, producers and restauranteurs.”
John McKenna said they were “truly honoured”.
“It is really significant for us after 30 years of writing about the people who make our great Irish food and drink. To receive something that has been voted for by them is really special.”
“Every day when we sit down with the family, they ask who reared, who grew or who cooked this? We always buy Irish food. Ireland’s food is produced by the people and we are delighted to get this award from those producers through Blas na hEireann” said Sally McKenna.
Blas na hEireann are Ireland’s national food awards. The 2016 winners will be announced in Dingle on Saturday October 1st.

Iyer’s At Home

Gautham Iyer has been in the spotlight lately: Electric Picnic, a very successful pup-up at La Boheme, and a glowing mention from Tom Doorley. But he was back at the roots last week, in his small 14 seat cafe on the north bank of Cork’s north channel, serving up his by now rather famous South Indian vegetarian food.

The Cork cafe is simple. The food too is simple. Simply superb. There is a dedication at work here, a dedication that is not bounded by the four walls of Iyer’s Cafe. Even when he is at a football match he is thinking food. Do you know any other chef who comes home from a game with a bunch of mushrooms because he wasn’t just looking only at the playing field.

It reminds me of a very experienced photographer who, on being assigned a football game, would also come home with pictures of dogs and their walkers or an unusual bird on the wing. He also used to say: Don’t forget to look behind you!

Well, in Iyer’s, I did look behind me, all around me, but firstly at the menu board, and then mostly at my plate. No beer or wine here but they do have some lovely drinks. My favourite is perhaps the Mango Lassi, sweet and cool with a smooth creamy texture, ideal for the dosas and samosas.

The Dosas are pretty large thin pancakes or crepes and come plain or with various fillings. The Onion is one that is we enjoyed while the Masala also went down well. All are served with homemade chutneys (maybe tomato, maybe coconut) and sambar ( a kind of soup, maybe with a bit of spice).

You could also start with samosas, up to yourself really. If you are new to South Indian and unsure, just ask the friendly people behind the counter. They’ll put you right! Samosas, with various fillings, are always available here. They are beautifully made, light and delicate and, like everything else here, reasonably priced.

Last week though, CL asked for the Samosa Chaat, an enhanced version with chick pea chole, red onion, rice puffs and garnishes. Sampled a spoon or two of that and loved it, especially those rice puffs! Very tasty, crunchy and savoury and nicely spiced, very comforting on a cool day.

There are other variations. There is a Bhel Puri, an Utthappam (popular version of the humble dosa). And if you want a taste of virtually everything here then ask for the rice dish called Madras Thali.

And there are specials too. Gautham describes the Chilli gobi with an avocado and mint chutney as “a crowd pleaser”. The Green banana, peanut and panneer bon bons with Beetroot and mint chutney is one of his own favourites. Another recent one is Chestnut mushroom and walnut pakora, with a tangy chutney. So, no shortage of choice. Still, if you are a novice, maybe stick with the dosas and samosas for that first visit!

I don’t have that much experience of South Indian either but stepped out of the comfort zone and ordered the tamarind rice served with spinach kootu and poppadom. The rice had a gorgeous texture and flavour while the kootu was more serious, warming and filling. Quite a feed for just €6.95.

You just might have room for dessert. There are always a few cakes and cookies on the counter to tempt you. My favourite, the Pistachio and Rosewater, wasn’t on that day but there was considerable consolation at hand in a shared slice of the creamy Mango, Banana and Coconut Cake.

The bill for two courses each, a drink apiece, a Badger & Dodo coffee each, and a shared slice of cake, came to forty euro. Good food, good value.

Excellent Night at The Eldon

West Cork Goes Down Under

Lots of big name chefs in West Cork for the recent food festival but hard to beat adopted local Matthew Brownie. The Kiwi chef at Skibbereen’s Eldon Hotel went down under and came up with a ten course winner. The Haka and the Didgeridoo also featured as the fun went on well beyond the allotted time! Great fun and great value too as the whole meal, including a welcome glass of wine, cost just twenty five euro.

The room was decorated with appropriately coloured flowers and many stuffed animals, even a suitably dressed surfer came with his board. Our table was designated Darwin and had the green and white colours of Australia. Kangaroo, Hangi Smoked Lamb and Hokey Pokey Ice Cream were among the many dishes enjoyed after Chef Matthew’s humourous introduction that invited us to “have a blow down under style”. His friend, Pete, a Maori, did the Haka chants and followed with an explanation in English.

No minuscule portions here as we soon found out when the Cornflake Chicken Goujons, with sweet chilli sauce arrived on the table. Crispy on the outside, tasty and moist on the inside, this well chosen starter went down well.

Dish number two was the Pan-fried Kangaroo, with Ballymaloe Relish, another winner. Well cooked and a super match with the

Mussels

famous relish. Kangaroo meat, produced only from free ranging wild animals (there may be up to 50 million), is exported from Australia to scores of countries worldwide.

Next up was the Kumara soup. Kumara is another name for sweet potato and this lovely soup was really enhanced by a piece of crispy Chorizo sausage. Into the sea then for dish number four: the breaded New Zealand Green tipped mussels. This mussel is important economically to New Zealand and is one of the largest mussel species.

Kangaroo

Sweetcorn Fritters, with bacon, were the next offering, another very tasty one with a totally different texture to what had gone before. In fact, there was great variety throughout the multi-course meal.

Plate #6 was a gem: Maori Hangi smoked lamb, with gravy. Hangi is a traditional Maori method of cooking food using heated rocks buried in a pit oven and still used for special occasions. Don’t know where Matthew laid his Hangi but the result was brilliant, tender flavoursome slices of lamb with a smoky background. Delicious!

Back to the sea now for a ceviche that acted as a palate cleanser. Each Pacific nation has its own version of this marinated (raw) fish in fresh coconut milk. The dish is typically made from fresh raw fish cured in citrus juices and sourced with chilli peppers with some additional optional seasonings such as chopped onions, salt and cilantro. Not too sure of all the elements in Matthew’s version but it was cool and refreshing for sure!

Now for the sweet stuff ,starting with dish number eight, the Hokey Poke Ice-cream. A nice one too, with a caramel “crust” broken into the “mess”. More dessert followed with Lamingtons, a sponge cake dessert of Australian origin, featuring jammy fruit flavours (eg strawberry, raspberry) and then coated in desiccated coconut. Yum!

After all that we had a cheese finalé with crackers and grapes. Time then to finish off some Galway Hooker amber lager – we had switched from the wine – before walking, slowly, back to our base!

Breton Night At The Celtic Ross

Ancient East Meets Wild Atlantic Way

We expected good things aplenty when guest chef Eric Thezé from La Bohème in Waterford and host chef Alex Petit of the Celtic Ross teamed up at the West Cork venue to present a Brittany Tasting Menu as part of A Taste of West Cork festival. And good things was what we got!

Both chefs are from Brittany and while the vast majority of the ingredients were local, from West Cork itself, it was no surprise that the two brought in some superb vegetables from their homeland. Many of you will have driven through Brittany from the ferry port at Roscoff and will have seen the fields of artichokes.

And the artichokes featured in our first dish, the Mise en Bouche: Coquille St. Jacques, Roast Purple Artichoke, cauliflower purée and smoked lardons. Manager Neil Grant said he “allowed” Eric bring the scallop from Kilmore Quay but the artichoke was probably the star of the plate, its gorgeous mild flavour a perfect foil to the scallop and part of an excellent combination.

Again, many of you will have tasted another Breton speciality, the Buckwheat Galette. Our starter was packed with a generous amount of smoked salmon, with leeks too and topped with a lovely Chive Créme Fraîche. We were up and running, enjoying the food and a glass of wine. The wine was all French and I must say I was surprisingly impressed with the Les Folies Landiers Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, a Sur Lie version, dry and fresh.

Now it was time for the fish course: Roasted Monkfish on the bone, Mussels, Coco de Paimpol, Armorique bisque. What a superb dish. The perfectly cooked fish, the creamy beans and the rich lobster sauce. Wow!

And more richness to follow as the meat arrived: Duo of Irish lamb, rump and croquette, sel de Guerande, sauce Paloise, Jerusalem artichoke two ways. The Paloise is exactly the same as Béarnaise but you use tarragon instead of mint and the salt comes from near the small walled town of Guerande in the south coast of Brittany. Again, it all came together so well.

We were happy punters in the Celtic Ross but there was still one final treat to come: Sablé Breton (a Breton shortbread), Rosscarberry strawberries, salty caramel ice cream, Crème de Cassis Liqueur. I don’t think I need add to that, a very lovely end to a smashing evening that had started with a kir based on the local Stonewell Cider. If you’re coming to the East Cork Festival next September, do watch out for this event.

Coffees Stars

Coffees Stars
From Hancock & Abberton

Dublin based Hancock & Abberton were celebrating on the double at the recent Great Taste Awards when two of their coffees won gold stars. Their Really Good Organic Coffee, two stars this time, had won before and great to see a repeat but the surprise was perhaps the performance of their Decaf Coffee that was awarded one star, “indistinguishable from regular coffees in the blind tasting”.

I got the opportunity to sample both winners recently and yes that Decaf, made from 100% Arabica beans, is a pleasant surprise, all the elements of a good coffee, particularly those delicate floral notes, without the caffeine. Here’s what the Great Tastes judges said: ”a deep satisfying flavour, with good length. Well balanced bitterness and acidity with a refreshing aftertaste. …, gentle on the palate but nevertheless has depth. An excellent coffee of its type”.

Guy Hancock and Anne Abberton, who co founded the firm in 2004 (initially known as Café de Cuba) were naturally delighted to announce their Two Gold Stars and One Gold Star at the Great Taste Awards, the world’s most coveted blind-tasted food awards , which celebrates the very best in food and drink . “This win for our decaf coffee is also an testament that great tasting coffee need not be compromised by decaffeination.”

Really Good Organic Coffee has previously won two Gold Stars in the Great Taste Awards 2012 and repeated that feat.  It has been described by the judges as a coffee with “a lovely roasted aroma, clean citrus taste and rewarding aftertaste and mouth feel, the whole experience is well balanced between bitterness and acidity and complexity”. It is indeed another excellent coffee made from dark beans with a distinctive shine; it is rich and strong, well balanced and satisfying, especially earlier in the day!

Judged by over 500 of the most demanding palates, belonging to food critics, chefs, cooks, restaurateurs and producers as well as a whole host of food writers and journalists, Great Taste is widely acknowledged as the most respected food accreditation scheme for artisan and speciality food producers. So quite a pat on the back for Hancock and Abberton.

As well as a badge of honour, the unmistakeable black and gold Great Taste label is a signpost to a wonderful tasting product, which has been discovered through hours and hours of blind-tasting by hundreds of judges.

There were 10,000 Great Taste entries this year and the panel of judges included; TV chef and author, Valentine Warner, MasterChef judge and restaurant critic, Charles Campion, fifth generation baker, Tom Herbert from Hobbs House Bakery, and Great British Bake Off winner, Frances Quinn; food buyers from Harrods, Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols and Waitrose and chefs including, James Golding, chef director of THE PIG Hotels, and Kevin Gratton, chef director of HIX Restaurants.

These two coffees now join the company’s other Great Taste Award winning brands including Café de Cuba Santiago (Great Taste Award Winner 2014 and Fixx Coffee (Great Taste Winner 2013 and 2009).

Hancock & Abberton supply to:­-
Trade customers such as cafes, hotels, restaurants, offices, showrooms and speciality retail outlets;
Coffee and Tea drinkers who frequent our trade customers’ outlets;
Coffee and Tea drinkers at home via the on line store
Stockists: http://www.hancockandabberton.com/blog/buy-really-good-organic-coffee-in-ireland.html

The countdown to Taste Cork Week is on…

Events are booking up fast so secure your tickets for your favourite events before it’s too late! Details and bookings here.
Here’s just a taste of what’s on offer from 10th – 16th October:

Venues include: 

Cafe Velo, Gallagher’s Gastropub, Cronin’s  Crosshaven, Bierhaus, Currans, El Vino, Cork International Hotel, The Kingsley Hotel, Fenn’s Quay, The Oliver Plunkett, the Yellow Sub, Sober Lane, The Metropole Hotel, The Imperial, Nash 19, Toonsbridge Sandwich Stall, Nine Market Street, Miyazaki, Sober Lane, Liberty Grill and Blarney Post Office Cafe will all be hosting special Taste Cork Week Dishes, Menus or Offers!
With more still to be announced…..

See and book here Taste Cork Week

Superb Sherry. And A Tasty Crianza

Spanish Gems

 

Zuleta Fino, Jerez (DO), 15%, €9.15 Karwig Wines

Speaking of Fino and the other drier styles of Sherry, Jancis Robinson says: “Most of them are still ridiculously underpriced.” This Highly Recommended bottle (37.5cc) is one of them, great value at Karwig’s. Try it as an aperitif, with tapas, with sushi or (if not a purist!) mix it fifty fifty with 7 Up, both ice-cold, add ice and fresh mint leaves.

The Zuleta has a light straw colour with “delicate floral, almond, and yeasty aromas and flavour”. It is crisp, soft, and dry on the palate. They recommended that you serve it very well chilled. And a tip: store after opening, tightly corked and refrigerated it will keep for up to a week.

Monte Toro Selection Crianza, Toro (DO) 2007, 14.5%, €16.20 Karwig Wines

This Highly Recommended red is from Toro, an area in the north west of Spain that produces ripe full bodied reds. It is 100% Tempranillo, the grape known locally as Tinta de Toro. This Crianza has spent 12 months in barrel (fifty fifty US and French oak) and 24 months in bottle before release.

It was worth waiting for. Colour is a dark red with hues of purple. The nose speaks of fruits, echoes there too of toast and vanilla. It is full bodied, silky, intense and savoury, and Highly Recommended

Local is King at The Imperial Hotel

Producers Reign in the Pembroke

Frank Hederman. Macroom Mozzarella. Jack McCarthy. Clonakilty Corn-fed Chicken. Hake from Castletownbere. Black sole from Kinsale. Aged West Cork Hereford Beef.
There’s a strong Irish input to the menu at the Imperial Hotel recently, much of it down to new Executive Chef Nicky Foley who has been known to do a bit of foraging around the Waterford village of Kilmeaden, his native place.

In the plush and spacious Pembroke Restaurant, I just had to start with that Hederman Smoked Salmon with buttermilk pancakes, pickled cucumber and horseradish. Beautiful colours and textures (the soft pancakes and the smooth fish made for each other) but above all the layers and layers of flavour that this expert smoker magics from his fish. Oh my!

There are increasing examples of heritage tomato salads on local menus and the Pembroke’s is top notch. Sourdough and heritage tomato salad is the full title and it comes with green olives, fried capers and garden herbs. A seasonal delight.
They are rightly proud of their steaks here, all from 28 day aged beef. I went for the fillet, a handsome 8 ounce cube that came, like they all do, with triple cooked chips and a choice of sauces – mine was the traditional pepper. One of the very best steaks in these parts, I’d have to say.
CL went for the Clonakilty chicken with roast garlic and mushroom. Like the beef, the flavour was superb here, outstanding in fact, quite a dish, served with vegetables and potatoes and all for 18 euro.
The desserts are all priced at €5.95 and we made the usual decision to share! And there was quite a lot to share when the Mango Parfait, Coconut and Milk Pudding, and Spiced Pineapple Carpaccio arrived. Not one of your usual suspects! A top class finale to a lovely meal.
Chef Nicky comes from a family of ten, he has six brothers and three sisters and food has always been a huge part of his family life. “My mother is a very good home cook and I was inspired by her love of food and also her attitude to using everything and wasting nothing. I am particularly mindful of using local produce, ingredients that are not forced but have been allowed to grow and mature as nature intended. That’s the real secret ingredient to any great dish.”
Nicky travelled extensively throughout Europe before spending five years with chef Richard Corrigan at Bentley’s in London. “Working under Richard was a fantastic experience,” said Nicky, “he always strove for perfection and encouraged me to be a better chef and to look at food in a more creative and respectful way.”
Some of the highlights of Nicky’s career include cooking live on CNBC news, competing in the Taste of London Live Cook Off and winning the Square Meal Canapé Cup, Critics Cup. He has cooked for the toast of London and is now bringing his own unique style of food to Cork.

Northern Whites. Double Delight.

Northern Whites

Double Delight

On the Loire

We’ve got two excellent whites for you to consider this week. One is a Riesling from Germany’s Rheingau and the other is a Sauvignon Blanc from the little-known Menetou-Salon appellation in the Loire valley.

Germany’s greatest variety, Riesling, is first documented in the Rheingau in 1435. Don't think Carl Ehrhard has been there that long but he has built up a great reputation and our selection is a lovely example.

Menetou-Salon is a village at the eastern end of the Loire Valley wine region. Wine-searcher.com says it is “forecast by many to be a potential rival for the famous Sancerre appellation (its immediate north-eastern neighbor), Menetou-Salon is rapidly establishing its reputation at an international level”. The reputation is being built on two varieties: Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Carl Ehrhard Rüdesheim Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2015, Rheingau (Germany), 11.5%, €18.60 Karwig Wines

A few words:

Kabinett: a wine made from fully ripened grapes of the main harvest, one level lower than Spätlese.

Feinherb: off dry.

This light gold 100% Riesling has lots of mini-bubbles clinging to the glass. There are white fruit aromas and the intense fresh fruit flavours (apple, citrus) make the tongue tingle at the start before rolling deliciously on. That tingle is the acidity keeping all that lively lovely fruit (with its hints of sweetness) in balance, right through to the excellent finish. Carl Ehrhard never leaves one down and this is Very Highly Recommended.

Just to let those of you worried about the whiffs of diesel from some Rieslings know, there is not a trace of fumes here!

Jean-Max Roger, Morogues, Le Petit Clos 2014, Menetou-Salon (AOC), 12.5%, €21.55 Karwig Wines

This is a classic Loire Sauvignon blanc, on a par with neighbouring Sancerre where Jean-Max also farms. It is elegant and restrained and the perfect partner for “the bounty of the seas,..... Also a good match for white meats and goat’s cheese”. The fruit comes from 5 hectares of vines in Le Petit Clos vineyard. In this steep south-facing slope, grape quality is the season long target.

This light gold wine has pleasant herbaceous aromas, citrus hints too, and these follow through on a fresh and lively palate, superb balance and long finish. Dry and crisp, with lots of character, this excellent Sauvignon Blanc is Highly Recommended.

Fine Art and Fine Dining at Greyfriars Church. Superb Waterford Gallery

Fine Art and Fine Dining at Greyfriars Church

Superb Waterford Gallery

Hake

Might as well have been a Philistine that walked into the old Greyfriars Church for the EAT Waterford Tasting Menu last Sunday afternoon. Oh, I knew about the multi-course lunch and the combination of local restaurants that had worked so hard to put it together and showcase their different skills. But I had no idea that the old church is now a gallery, has been since 2001.

But soon, one or two local enthusiasts were pointing me away from the tables, to the walls. I hadn't really noticed all the artwork hanging here. And so I started viewing before too many diners came in. “There’s a Yeats there,” I was told. And so there was, an oil on canvas titled While Grass Grows.

Greyfriars and Jack B. Yeats

And close by there’s a Paul Henry (Evening in Kerry), a Mainie Jellett (Virgin and Child), an Evie Hone (abstract), one by George William Russell, better known as AE, called Boy with Donkey on Skyline, a Louis Le Brocquy (Belfast Refugees at Mespil Road, Dublin, 1941), and quite a few more, thirty nine in all.

The 39 have been selected from the Waterford Municipal Art Collection by Patrick Murphy, director, Royal Hibernian Academy in Dublin and were exhibited in the RHA in 2015. There is not much time left to see the current display in Greyfriars as it due to finish at the end of the current month. All the Greyfriar details here.

Amuse Bouche

 So back then to meet the strangers at our table - not strangers for long - and time to study the menu with a glass of wine in hand. Some pretty pictures soon on our plates, starting with the Colcannon, Leek compote and Bacon Crumb Amuse Bouche.

An amazingly juicy Heirloom tomato from the local Grantstown nurseries was the feature of our starter, a salad with ribbons of local vegetables. The next course, the fish, was possibly the highlight of the afternoon: Seared Dunmore East Hake “Chu-Chie”, coconut, Thai Spice Rub, Kaffir Lime Leaves and pickled veg, a perfect balance between the delicate fish and the spices.

Starter

Next up was the meat course: Honey mustard glazed pork neck, smoked bacon choucroute, home-made white pudding, and red wine apple purée. Another excellent balanced combination. I liked that choucroute and the purée went so well with the pork.

Tom Cleary popped up on nearly every table over the weekend but it was something of a surprise to some to see the well-known grower of salads and vegetables contributing to the dessert: Bavois of Tom Cleary’s organic beetroot, pistachio, wild blackberry glaze, lime and basil sorbet.

Pork

 The Tasting Menu was the work of EAT Waterford, a collaborative initiative by the restaurateurs of Waterford City, that is aimed at helping food lovers to find the best places to eat in Waterford.

This year it was the turn of Athenaeum House Hotel, Bellissimo, L’Atmosphere, Loko, Momo, the Olive Tree, Sabai and the Tower Hotel, all ardent supporters of local produce to contribute their time and skills. No shortage of local drinks either at Greyfriars with beers from Dungarvan Brewery and gin from the Blackwater Distillery on hand. Wines too, of course, but we haven’t started to grow enough grapes to make our own yet!

Dessert

See also:

Dinner at La Boheme
Waterford Producers Brunch at The Granary Cafe
House of Waterford Crystal Tour
Bodega, Waterford. Good Food & Lots Of Buzz
EAT Waterford. 5 Course Menu de Luxe on The Mall
Harvest Days in Waterford. Visiting the Viking City