Festival Food & Drink Favourites 2021. Eight Degrees and Bakestone in Happy Holiday Pairing

Festival Food & Drink Favourites 2021

Eight Degrees and Bakestone in Happy Holiday Pairing

What were your food and drink favourites over the Christmas and New Year?

I’d say one of mine came at the end of the Christmas Day Dinner when we matched the Bakestone Pudding with a shared can of Eight Degrees Irish Oak-aged Barleywine. At 12.2% abv, this is a heavy hitter and needs respect. Pour a little into a wine glass and sip and enjoy. It went perfectly with the pudding from East Cork (you’ll find Bakestone at Cobh Cross - they’ve been there for years and, as well as a popular café, have a magnificent pantry of top notch Irish produce).

And so it was appropriate that it was two locally made products that topped our Christmas bill!

The Eight Degrees’ aromatic and multi-flavoured seasonal special was aged in especially rare Irish whiskey barrels that have been made from native Irish oak. Not alone did it pair with the rich and dark pudding but it also went well with the light and delicious Christmas cake from Barnabrow House (bought at Roughty Foodie) and also with the cheese course, notably with the Crozier Blue (via On The Pig’s Back).

Bubbles are usually associated with the festivities at this time of year and I was lucky to have a couple of delicious bottles of Prosecco on hand, each by Bottega. The Gold Prosecco Brut impressed for sure but it was the Bottega Rose Gold that really caught my attention. It is a terrific Spumante Brut rose, made from Pinot Noir grapes grown throughout the Veneto.

The hand painted bottles are not only eye-catching but "reflect the quality and care put into producing this wine”. Bottega do not use chemical-based products for their metallised bottles; this means the solvent for the varnish is water-based, instead of being oil or alcohol-based like more traditional varnishes.

It wasn’t just Prosecco of course. There was wine. We won’t go into too much detail just to say that we had an impressive pair via Liberty Wine for dinner on the big day. From South Africa came the Western Cape Momento, the country’s only Grenache Gris. And we made it a lovely Grenache double with the red, a Willunga 100 from the McLaren Vale in Australia.

You always need something extra to bring the best out of all the good stuff on the table at Christmas and two jars in particular were in regular use here. One was the Big Red Kitchen’s Spiced Plum and Port Jam and the other was the seasonal Ballymaloe Foods Cranberry and Mór Wild Berry Gin Sauce.

The Spiced Plum and Port Jam is very versatile, a match with paté, cheese and duck and we find it  outstanding with Skeaghanore smoked duck breast and gives the Skeaghanore Confit Leg sweet hint of Asia. This year it also impressed with the Bakestone pudding. Nicola of the Red Kitchen combines ripe plums with a hint of warming cinnamon and port in this excellent seasonal preserve which is also wonderful with scones and bread. It won’t go to waste around here.

And neither did the Ballymaloe Foods Cranberry and Mór Wild Berry Gin Sauce. It certainly did what it says on the jar and enhanced the turkey (and the other meats) no end and also impressed when used with the cheese board. This blend of cranberries and the Irish gin proved indispensable over the week.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a Cork Christmas without a helping of spiced beef on the table. No shortage here thankfully and, supplied (like the turkey and ham) by local craft butcher Chris Davidson, it was once again a highlight. Turkey and ham was pretty good too!

Another highlight was our order from Ummera Smokehouse in Timoleague, a box packed with chicken, duck, salmon (two ways), even rashers, all smoked and all delicious as always. Good use was made of this package over the holidays. Nothing like a bit of variety over the hols.

We did indeed use the Ummera smoked chicken on New Year’s Eve and later there were more holiday bubbles. It was now the turn of a super Beaumont des Crayères Vintage 2013 Fleur Blanche Blanc de Blancs Brut (via O’Briens Wines) to shine. Intense and exciting from the engaging first sip, with fountains of micro-bubbles powering upwards, with biscuity aromas and flavours and floral notes too, this is one of the better ones for sure. It is made from 100% Chardonnay and obviously 2013 was a very good year.

Let us hope that 2022 will also be a good one. Happy New Year to you all and fingers crossed that it will be better for all of us.

 

A Quart of Ale± #84. On the craft journey with a session Whiplash, Porterhouse, Whitefield and Eight Degrees

 A Quart of Ale± #84

On the craft journey with an excellent session of Whiplash, Porterhouse, Whitefield and Eight Degrees

Whitefield Brewery “Woodville” Session Pale Ale 4.3%, 500ml bottle Bradleys

This pale ale from Tipperary has a light amber colour with a soft suds head that’s inclined to hand about a bit (the malt used may have something to do with that stability). There’s a lemony aroma with herbal notes and that “Mediterranean twist”. It is also found on the palate with a touch of green tea. Quite a flavoursome beer, nicely balanced with a little malt sweetness and the judicious use of the hops. An impressive session beer for sure.

For the Geek:

Hops: Styrian Fox (Slovenia).

Malt: Eraclea (Italy)

As you may know, the brewery formerly named White Gypsy has rebranded to Whitefield; the rebrand is still ongoing. Drawing all the names from their Templemore (County Tipperary) locality, even some of the beers have been renamed. This particular ale was Gladiator and is now named after a downland in Templemore.

Whiplash Blue Ghosts German Pils 5.2%, 440ml can Whiplash Online

Pale yellow is the colour of this German Pils from Whiplash who say: We’ve fermented Blue Ghosts on our favourite lager strain WLP833 - giving it all that great mouthfeel and malt complexity that the strain provides without interfering with that hop profile before allowing it the long cold sleep it deserves before packaging. …has fast become a team favourite. Grab it before we drink it all.

It is a clear beer with plenty of bubbles on view. The hops, Saaz and Hersbrucker, also bring something to the party and you’ll notice herbal hints, even grassy notes, along with the influence of Bergamot in both aromas and palate. They didn’t spare the hops using 10g/l of Saaz and Hersbrucker and say it is unique in that it is heavily whirlpool hopped, not dry hopped. Perfect for outdoors in the sun but not bad by the fireside either.

The Blue Ghosts are given some bodily heft by the use of Pilsner and Carapils malts. By the way, that yeast strain, WLP833, is regarded as ideal for German style lagers and that certainly seems to be the case here with yet another well executed beer, a really excellent lager, from the busy Whiplash team.

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Porterhouse Rambler Juicy Pale Ale 4.6%, 440ml can O’Briens Wine

The Rambler has a light orange colour in the glass with a white head. “One for the juice heads,” say Porterhouse, based on the three hops used at whirlpool and hop. Well, it is juicy, moderately hoppy also, with a good dry finish.

The three hops added to the basic Magnum are: El Dorado (Apricot, tropical, citrus), Enigma (Grape, Berry, Melon), Eukanot (Mandarin, Melon, Mango). Their individual characteristics are in the brackets so you can see how they contribute to the result with a mild enough citrus and mango to the fore. 

Dextrin, Ale, Wheat, Oats, and Crystal keep the malt end up, noticeable in the fuller body and a touch of caramel. Quite a delicious and easy drinking fruity ale to be fair, well made, and worth a try for sure.

Eight Degrees Full Irish Single Malt IPA 6.0%, 440 ml can

Gold, with an amber streak, is the colour of this Single Malt from Eight Degrees. Like the “Full Irish”, this has everything!

A lovely white head that sinks away, eventually. Lots of citrus-y aromas (grapefruit, mango ) from the four strong team of All-American hops (Amarillo, Citra, Simcoe and Cascade), floral notes too. And hops galore on the palate but not having it all their own way as the pale malt finds ways of having its biscuity say as the juice flows across. And it is bitterness and sweetness in lockstep that take you through to the end of the aftertaste, ready to go again. Not surprised that this hoppy fruit bomb has a string of awards to its credit.

Geek Bits

Style: Single malt IPA
Malt: 100% Irish pale malt
Hops: Simcoe, Cascade, Citra, Amarillo
Strength: 6.0% ABV
Bitterness: 65 IBUs

Food pairings
This single malt ale will pair beautifully with simple grilled fish and barbecued chicken kebabs, the sweet malt flavours working well with anything that’s been caramelised on the grill. Don’t miss an opportunity to try it with something spicier, like barbecued piri-piri prawns and it is also an exceptionally good match with smoked duck, the hops cutting through the rich meat. To finish, get a slice of carrot cake alongside a glass of this and revel in how the beer balances out the cake’s sweetness.

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A Quart of Ale± #83. On the craft journey with a session of Treaty City, Third Circle, Brehon Brewhouse, Eight Degrees

 A Quart of Ale± #83

On the craft journey with a session of Treaty City, Third Circle, Brehon Brewhouse, Eight Degrees

Treaty City Harris Pale Ale 5.0%, 440ml can O’Briens Wine

Named after Limerick’s most famous film-star, this Pale Ale has a lovely golden amber colour with a soft white head. Aromas are mostly citrus, some floral notes and a modest touch of pine. And it proves itself hop-forward and impressively well-balanced on the palate and beyond. Again the citrus (grapefruit) features strongly in the mouth and so too does the malt. And the combination also provides a very satisfactory finish indeed.

Treaty City, the brew/pub is close to King John’s Castle, say: Treaty City Brewery started in a small two bedroomed apartment in East Vancouver, Canada. After a long night of general debauchery, plenty of merriment and many bottles of bland tasteless beer, we decided enough was enough. Something had to be done. Life was too short to drink bad beer. The next morning, while nursing a spectacular hangover we headed for the local homebrew store and purchased our very first brewing equipment….. 

Soon they were brewing at home and not too long after that they found the real home was calling and, back in the Treaty City, they carried on brewing!

The Harris Pale Ale (suitable for vegans by the way) is one of the brewery’s first and is named after Richard Harris, swashbuckling on and off the screen and a man who appreciated a good drink. He performed in a huge variety of films over a number of decades including The Guns of Navarone (1961), The Field (1990) and Gladiator (2000).

Third Circle Shot In The Dark Coffee & Oatmeal Stout 5.2%, 330ml can Bradleys

About as black as can be, with a soft tanned head that doesn’t rush to depart. Probably more coffee than toffee in the aromas. And the coffee is much the flavour on the palate though caramel gets a look in as well. Pretty smooth also thanks to the oatmeal. Not to sure though that it will wake you up in the morning, might work around lunchtime though. Good but not quite in the Dungarvan league - yet!

They say: “Rich smooth decadent coffee oatmeal stout brewed with the perfect blend of Irish malt and single fair trade coffee.This beer is pure breakfast juice. We teamed up with our local coffee roaster to bring you this beautifully smooth coffee and oatmeal stout. Brewed with oats for that creamy and silky base and then infused with single origin Columbian coffee which gives beautiful aromas of sweet chocolate, brown sugar and black tea. This beer will wake you up!”

Who are Third Circle? Like many great breweries, the foundations of Third Circle lie in homebrewing. Wicklow based Scientist Jon Grennan developed a love and passion for brewing at home while working as a biologist. Third Circle beers are now crafted in Dublin, where Jon's love for both precision and experimentation are feeding the creation of some exciting new brews. 

The company's core beliefs are simple: brew with balance, good taste and curiosity. Third Barrel Brewery was founded in Bluebell Avenue, Dublin 12 in collaboration with friends at Stone Barrel Brewing. 

Brehon Brewhouse Shanco Dubh Porter 8.8%, 500ml bottle Bradleys 

This is a strong and powerful ale that absorbs distinct spirit notes from time spent ageing in old oak whiskey casks. A beer for sipping and relishing. Best served around eight degrees.

It is black for sure with a tan head that doesn’t really hang about. This bottle conditioned beer has robust aromatic notes of dark chocolate, roasted malt and liquorice, plus herbal hints. More of the chocolate on the palate. Full bodied with prominent roasted elements and moderate (yet definite) whiskey notes. And that elegant whiskey contribution takes us right through to the very satisfactory finish with a pleasing sweetness. 

This porter goes exceptionally well with meat and cheese dishes. Which ties in, more or less, with the Beer Club recommendations of smoked meats, oysters, game or extra mature cheddar cheese. 

No shortage of cask-aged at Brehon and this is another excellent one, yet my favourite, by a small margin, remains the Oak & Mirrors.

Eight Degrees Citra Single Hop IPA 5.7%, 440ml can

Mid-gold is the colour of this Citra Single Hop from Eight Degrees, the adventurous brewery. It’s got a white bubbly head. Aromas are, surprise, surprise, citrus with a floral touch as well. The combined fruit flavours come out to play on the juicy palate and you’ll note peach, melon, lime, gooseberry, passion fruit and lychee in the mix with the malt on display. It’s a refreshing beer, with a nicely judged bitter finish. 

Another excellent can in the Mitchelstown portfolio proving, not for the first time, that Citra is more than capable of sustaining a solo run.

They say: Citra, with its fruity, juicy aroma and flavour, is one of our favourite hops. To showcase it, we’ve used a simple, yet elegant, malt body …. This is a beer that is both sweet and tart, with a gloriously juicy mouthfeel.

Geek Bits
2020 World Beer Awards – Gold
2019 World Beer Awards – Gold

Style: Single hop IPA
Malt: Irish pale ale malt
Hops: Citra, Citra and…Citra!
Strength: 5.7% ABV
Bitterness: 62 IBUs

Food pairings:
The bitterness in this Citra Single Hop IPA will cut beautifully through sweet low-and-slow pulled pork served with a chilli-spiked peach relish. The beer also will counterbalance the bold flavours of barbecued chicken wings and play nicely with some grilled spicy fresh Gubbeen chorizo sausages. Try it with a not-too-sweet Key Lime pie for a full-on citrus ending to your meal.

From Morgan And Lugana. Two Very Highly Recommended Wines.

From Morgan And Lugana. Two Very Highly Recommended Wines.

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Domaine des Souchons “Cuvée Claude Billet” Morgan (AOC) 2018, €18.95 (was €24.95) O’Briens Wine

These days, I find a comfortable certainty when I open a bottle of Beaujolais cru, particularly when that cru is Morgan. And, as soon as I smell the intense straightforward red berry nose, with a touch of spice, from this Cuvée Claude Billet, I know I’m on the money again with this deep ruby coloured wine.

The vibrant fruit and a tingling acidity leaves an excellent impression as it shines everywhere across the palate and through the long and lingering finish, a touch of fine tannins on the lips. What’s not to like here? Very Highly Recommended.

This cuvée is a blend of different plots, notably combining the volcanic terroir of the Cote du Py and the power of the Grand Cras terroir on one of the oldest estates in the Morgon area of Beaujolais. It is owned by the Condamine family whose roots are in these vineyards. This 100% Gamay, with strong character and enjoyable light fruit notes, is perfect with poultry, and they also say that it goes surprisingly well with cooked white fish, such as sole meuniere.

They say: It is at Morgon, a Beaujolais cru, that we carefully tend our 40 parcels that spread over almost 12 hectares. The domaine is subject to six different types of climatic influences, allowing us to produce wines of great richness that reveal their individual terroirs.

Guerrieri Rizzardi Lugana (DOC) 2020, 12%, €14.95 (was 18.95) O’Briens Wine

The shimmering light gold colour of this Rizzardi white dances in the glass and catches the eye. The feel good factor is increased as you sniff the attractive aromas of fruit such as peach and more exotic like mango and pineapple, and there are floral notes as well. 

There is indeed ample fruit (including the exotic) on the palate and a long and lasting finish. Terrific texture all the way thanks to it having been on the lees for two to three months. A subtle acidity is a key factor. Very Highly Recommended.

Excellent, Rizzardi say, with freshwater and saltwater fish dishes, fresh crustaceans, sushi and young cheese. Also ideal as an aperitif. Recommended serving temperature is 10 to 12 degrees. Guerrieri Rizzardi is the result of the union between two venerable winemaking families that date back to the 17th century.

This Lugana is made from Turbiana grapes, historically cultivated widely in the lands surrounding Peschiera del Garda (a town by Lake Garda). The grape is also known as Trebbiano di Lugana and is genetically linked to Verdicchio. The grapes are grown according to the guyot method in various vineyards around the San Benedetto di Lugana area, where the subsoil is abundant in white clay. 

After selection and harvest, the grapes are crushed and then fermented in stainless steel tanks followed by refinement on the lees for 2-3 months, after which the wine is ready to be bottled. This 2020 was first bottled on the 9th of March 2021.

A Couple of Cracking Reds from Tasmania and Alentejo.

A Couple of Cracking Reds

from Tasmania and Alentejo

Eddystone Point Pinot Noir (Tasmania) 2018, 13%, €24.95, O’Briens Wine

This Pinot Noir, all the way from Tasmania, has a vibrant mid-ruby colour. Strawberry is the major actor in the moderately intense aromas. This juicy red is lively in the mouth, delicately flavoured, with strawberry and cherry, some spice too, and a natural acidity help keep the balance right to the finalé, where the smooth tannins softly tingle the lips and fruit and spice gently and pleasantly linger. 

Purity of fruit was foremost in winemaker Stewart Byrne’s mind during this vintage and he and his team hit the bull’s eye with this one. Very Highly Recommended.

 

Eddystone Point is situated in windswept North East Tasmania and features some of the most uniquely layered terrains on the planet. With its cool climate and prevailing winds it is ideal for growing Pinot Noir.

Eddystone say: One of the hardest of all grape varietals to make, this wine displays all the hallmarks of great Pinot Noir. …The unusually warm Summer and Spring conditions were able to ripen larger than average crops successfully, and vintage was done and dusted in the very short timeframe of just 5 weeks. Harvesting 100% hand picked…. Maturation was 9 months in 25% new French oak and a mixture of older oak. .. Drink now or cellar for up to 3-5 years. First released in 2013, Eddystone Point realises our vision to create wines that are drinkable, affordable and represent the undisputed quality of Tasmanian fresh produce.

Tasmania is a single wine region (Geographical Indication), with seven distinct and diverse wine growing areas. The climate is cool by latitude, not altitude, and the weather is highly variable. Many grape varieties are now found in Tasmania, with producers constantly innovating and experimenting. But Pinot Noir is the star, representing almost half of the island’s plantings for both still and sparkling wine. And those sparkling wines are pretty damn good too!

Marquês de Borba Colheita Alentejo (DOC) 2019, 14%, €17.95 O’Briens Wine

Like many Portuguese wines, this red is a blend; the grape varieties used are Alicante Bouschet, Arangonez, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Petit Verdot and Merlot. The fruit is grown on the limestone and schist soils of Alentejo (a large area with the Algarve to the south, Spain to the east and the Atlantic coast, with Lisbon, to the west).

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And, like many Portuguese reds, the aromas are intense, a concentration of fruit (red and darker berries) and a touch of vanilla. The palate too is fruit-driven but not at all over the top as you’ll find a happy equilibrium between fruit, tannin and acidity. Very drinkable and Highly Recommended.

Marquês de Borba Colheita is made by the family owned João Portugal Ramos. He started his personal wine making project by planting his first five hectares of vineyards in Estremoz in 1988. Now joined by his son and daughter in the business, they have grown to be one of the most important wineries in Portugal.

They say: One of the most emblematic brands of João Portugal Ramos, Marquês de Borba combines the tradition of the Alentejo region with an excellent quality, present since the first vintage in 1997. The brand’s name comes from the happy coincidence of João Portugal Ramos’ vineyards and winery being located in Borba sub-region, and also of one of his uncles having the noble title Marquês de Borba, a title created in 1811. Present all over the world, the Marquês de Borba brand is today a symbol of the Alentejo region.

Over one hundred wines from across the globe now on promotion in O'Briens Wine.

Over one hundred wines from across the globe now on promotion in O'Briens Wine.

Hard to confine yourself when picking a few highlights in O’Briens Wine September sale; there are well over one hundred wines from across the globe on promotion until the 26th of the month. I decided to put the focus on one grape and it helps that Pinot Noir is a favourite of mine and, while I skipped Burgundy (the home of the grape), I’ve have suggestions from New Zealand and Romania. And, if you’d like to check a well-known Burgundy example then pick up a bottle of Louis Jadot.

Pinot Noir is also much used in sparkling wines, a key part of most Champagnes and other French bubbles (eg Crémant). But oddly enough not in our Champagne recommendation:  the Granzamy Brut (down from 34.90 to 29.90) which is made from just the one grape, Pinot Meunière.

While you will find Pinot Noir around the world, it is not that widely planted. Certain areas are noted for it including Burgundy, Germany, Oregon in the US, Chile in South America and Marlborough in New Zealand.

Wildflower Pinot Noir Romania 2019, 12.5%, €8 (was 13.95)

Romania? Haven’t heard much about their wine? Reasonable questions. But vineyards were first planted in Romania by the Romans so there is an ancient winemaking history here. Nowadays, according to the World Atlas of Wine, “EU membership has encouraged considerable investment in Romania’s vineyards and relatively well-run wineries”

This Pinot Noir is a pale ruby colour, as you might expect from the varietal. There’s a fruity nose (raspberry, strawberry, cranberry) and fairly spicy too. Very fruity on the palate, richer than you’d generally find in France. But it’s light and fresh, and acidity enough to make it very quaffable indeed. Good finish too. A pleasant intro to the Pinot Noir grape and excellent value.

The label, naturally enough, says this is “an outstanding example of this famous varietal and can be enjoyed on its own, slightly chilled on a hot summer evening, or as perfect companion to BBQs where it will definitely keep all your friends happy.”

Astrolabe Pinot Noir (Marlborough) 2017, 13.5%, 19.95 (normally 25.45).

Bright ruby is the colour of this Marlborough Pinot Noir made by Simon Waghorn who is one of new Zealand’s most accoladed winemakers with a reputation for making “terroir” focused Sauvignon Blanc as well as Pinot Noir.

This fragrant wine with red berry fruit prominent (wild strawberries) and bramble fruit too. Cool elegant mouth-filling fruit (black and red cherry) follow and the oak has melded nicely with the fruit. There’s a  silky tannin structure and excellent acidity. This lively style is indeed a thoroughly pleasurable experience, plush on the palate, and fresh, fruity to the delicious finish. Very happy with this one. Very Highly Recommended as was the case with the 2015 version.

O’Brien’s say: Astrolabe is a small family wine business owned and run by Simon and his family in Marlborough. Astrolabe Pinot Noir is well-balanced with refreshing acidity and silky tannins, it is fragrant with a purity of ripe wild berry fruit that makes this wine sing across the palate. Eleven months in French oak adds a smoky complexity on the lingering finish.

Waghorn tells us “Marlborough is a great area for all those aromatic cool climate wines that we know around the world, like Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, but in our cool climate, the only red that flourishes reliably every year is Pinot Noir, which is lucky for me as a winemaker, because it’s the best of them all. If you only had one red wine to be able to make, Pinot Noir would be the one you’d normally choose as a winemaker.”

He just loves Pinot Noir: “Pinot Noir occupies a special place. It’s a food-friendly red. It’s a red that has vibrancy and life in it. That’s what I’m focusing on — making sure that we don’t lose that sense of vitality from the fruit in the wine and style it in a way that it is long, plush, enjoyable and full without being heavy and muscular.”

Food pairings: Venison, duck, game, roasted beetroot, rare and tender lamb, and earthy wild mushrooms, Asian-style duck, seared tuna and swordfish.

A Few Good Whites

No problem in picking a few good whites from the promotion. Let us start in Australia with the Stonier Chardonnay. Stonier was established in 1978 and are noted for their Burgundian style cool climate wines. The vineyards overlook the ocean. Chardonnay is a signature wine for Stonier and this is a gem.

Back to Europe for the rest of our whites, beginning with the Robert Weil Riesling Trocken. A Riesling dry in style and well balanced like its Rheingau predecessors “from the glorious age of Riesling a century ago: a contemporary classic and a perfect partner for many foods.”  Must say I don’t know anything about the Rieslings of a century ago but this light gold coloured wine is a gem for sure.

The Lingenfelder family, winemakers in the Pfalz area of Germany since 1520, produce this Lingenfelder Bird-Label Riesling, one of their "Vineyard Creatures" series that also includes the Hare (Gewürztraminer) and the Fox (Dornfelder) . This particular Riesling is off dry and delicious. It has the typical Riesling aromas (citrus-y), is fresh and elegant and may be enjoyed as an aperitif or with light or spicy dishes.

Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard is “one of the first wine producers in organic farming in Chablis and Burgundy”. They started on the organic way in 1997. The winery itself is ultra modern, everything is stainless steel, and this Brocard Petit Chablis gets some lees ageing. It is a light bright gold with exotic fruit aromas. An intense palate, fresh and full, and then a lingering and very satisfying finish. 

For the last days of summer! One white and one rosé

For the last days of summer!

 One white and one rosé

Chateau Albajan Picpoul de Pinet (AOP) 2020, 13.5%, now €12.95 (was €16.95) O’Briens 

You might be expecting a screwcap closure on this one as it  is white and comes from the Languedoc, one of the less formal wine areas of France. But you’d be mistaken, though the cork itself, not from traditional materials, is one of these modern amalgams.

Picpoul is both a grape and an area. This Château Albajan has a green-tinged light straw colour. An inviting mix of fresh citrus and pear gently lead the aromatics and you’ll find their flavours on the palate, a lively palate! There is the slightest tingle on the attack before the zesty flavours round it off on the way to a lip-smacking (no, not really lip-stinging!) crisp finish. Highly Recommended. Well priced too by the way.

O’Briens tell us that Château Albajan has been in the Albajan family since 1850. It is located in Castelnau de Guers in Picpoul de Pinet, lying between the famous oyster farming Thau lake (Bassin de Thau) and the historic town of Pézenas. The estate is run by Marie-Laure Albajan with a focus on achieving the best expression of their terroir with perfectly ripe and healthy grapes.

And the grape? Picpoul (also spelt as Piquepoul) is very well suited to the region and has been grown here for centuries. The name Piquepoul might put you off because it translates as "sting the lips", and is a reference to the grape's mouthwateringly high acidity. No wonder they say: “Match with salty”! But you may like to pair it with Pastas, Vegetarian, Poultry, Lean Fish (cod, haddock, or pollock for instance), Canapés.

GAI’A 4-6° Agiorgitiko Peloponnese (PGI) 2020, 12%, €15.95 O’Briens

Agiorgitiko is a fragrant red wine grape native to Greece's Peloponnese and that is where this rosé hails from. It is a pale pink. Rose petals, strawberries and pomegranate in the aromas. Very pleasant  and fresh bouquet indeed and very pleasant in the mouth also with its fresh fruit flavours enhanced by a lively acidity. Light and lovely all the way to the finish. Highly Recommended.

Gaia say: This wine, whether taken as an aperitif or enjoyed by the glass while out at a bar with good friends, it will impress! Paired with a light meal, it will definitely fascinate! And as an accompaniment to Asian cuisine, it will surely conquer. AGIORGITIKO 4-6h can be treated as a white wine, and served cold in a big glass for one’s own pleasure! 

Rosé wines are back! Some lighter and fresher, some darker and richer. The Agiorgitiko 4-6 was created from grapes which grow at a particularly high altitude, give a lovely rose color and a profound freshness of aroma and flavor. Suitable for Vegans & Vegetarians

Bertrand's Orange Gold Shines Among Impressive New Wines at O'Briens.

Bertrand's Orange Gold Shines

 Among Impressive New Wines at O'Briens.

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Gérard Bertrand Orange Gold, Occitaine Vin du France 2020, 13%, €21.95

Orange Gold pays tribute to the first orange wines of Georgia 4500 years ago. Gérard Bertrand wants to create a new profile of orange wines, very fresh. Gérard Bertrand’s take on Orange wine is an innovative blend of seven white grape varieties:Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne, Mauzac, Muscat and Clairette. The name and attractive bottle are an homage to the power of the sun and the magnificent sunsets over the South of France. 

Very Highly Recommended and straight on to my short list for wine of the year.

Orange gold will also serve to precisely describe the colour of this wine in its special bottle. Aromas are intense, full of sweet blossom and yes that freshness. The palate is complex, peach and apricot flavours, sweet notes but with tremendous harmony, its supple texture envelops the taste buds, its smooth tannins kiss the lips and there’s a lingering finish with a slight bitterness that begs for more. Another glass please and more food. 

So what food for this remarkable wine? They say: Endowed with a beautiful freshness, light tannins and subtle acidity, Orange Gold goes well with many dishes. It is a wine of character, the perfect companion for aperitifs with friends and cheese platters to share. This remarkable and luminous wine also goes very well with spicy food, especially Indian dishes or Asian recipes. Orange Gold can be drunk at 12°C to appreciate all its freshness and minerality. Its aromatic complexity and the richness of its palate will develop in the glass at 14°C.

Bertrand, a former rugby international, doesn’t do things by half measures - he is reported to have tasted over 70 orange wines from around the world as part of his research! His aims apparently were not to replicate the ancient Georgian methods but to come up with his own “fresh” version. No amphora here. Instead oak and stainless steel have been used as he mixed the ancient methods of the Georgians with the new ones of the South of France where he is a major player.

A few details:

The white grapes are vinified and fermented in whole bunches, like red wines. This maceration with the stalks and skins brings a remarkable orange colour with golden reflections and a very singular “tannicity”. It is an exceptional blend of seven grape varieties, all essentially Mediterranean: Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc and Viognier add volume and Marsanne, Mauzac and Muscat enrich the aromatic complexity of the wine.

Emiliana Novas Riesling Gran Reserva, Bío-Bío Valley Chile 2019

RRP €16.95 (reduced to €11.95 from 19th July to 1st September 2021)

Colour is a clear golden yellow. Apple, pear and lime feature in the rather complex aromatics (along with a whiff of diesel). The palate is packed with flavour, even a touch of sweetness but the zesty acidity helps keep it all in balance right through to the persistent finish. Highly Recommended.

O’Briens say: Emiliana's Novas Riesling Gran Reserva is produced from organically farmed grapes grown in the Bío Bío Valley, one of the most southern wine regions in the world located 500km south of the Chilean capital Santiago. This off-dry style, with its fresh acidity, makes this Riesling a perfect match for Asian cuisine. Try also with Oysters and shellfish, white meats and smoked salmon.

It is produced from organically farmed grapes, and is certified Organic and Vegan. Grapes are handpicked then placed in a pneumatic press to obtain the different musts, which were kept separate. Once ferment was complete, the wine was left in contact with its fine lees in stainless steel tanks for 5 months, with periodic stirring (batonnage) before being fined and bottled.

Emiliana is the world’s largest organic winery and have made eight commitments for the future:

1. Healing the Earth through Organic and Biodynamic actions
2. Generating new research into optimising and promoting Organic Viticulture
3. Conserving Biodiversity in the vineyards
4. Reducing Carbon Footprint
5. Reducing Energy Consumption
6. Reducing Water Consumption
7. Minimising the environmental impact of Supplies
8. Minimising the Generation of Waste and increasing Recycling

Emiliana Novas Syrah-Mourvèdre Gran Reserva, Cachapoal Valley Chile 2017, 14%

RRP €16.95 (reduced to €12.95 until 1st September 2021)

The fruit for Novas Gran Reserva Syrah-Mourvèdre comes from vineyards located in the

Cachapoal valley, 85km south of Santiago. The valley is well sheltered from the cooling

influences of the Pacific Ocean and enjoys a temperate Mediterranean climate ideal for

ripening these grape varieties.

Ruby is the colour of this Chilean blend, certified organic and vegan. Aromas are rich, packed with notes of cherries and plums. And the flavours (plums, blueberries) on the palate are not shy at all, no shortage of acidity either to balance. It is juicy and full-bodied with a hint of sweet spice plus silky tannins in a lengthy and satisfactory finish. Highly Recommended.

Food pairings recommended by the makers are: roasted red meats, or beef stew with oregano and carrots. Also combines well with Parmesan cheese and toasted bread with olive oil. And I’ve also seen hamburgers heartily recommended.

Lots of care taken with the vinification. The new wine remains on its skins at 22º–24ºC for 4–5 days. Malolactic fermentation takes place naturally in oak barrels, where the wine is aged for 9 months, during which time stabilisation takes place naturally, without additional treatments. The wine is filtered with a 1-micron (absolute) cartridge filter just prior to bottling.

Revino Postcards From Italy Pinot Grigio Rosé Delle Venezie (DOC) 12.5% 

RRP €15.95 (reduced to €11.96 until September)

This delicately flavoured organic Pinot Grigio Rosé from the Veneto has a light rose colour with hints of grey in there. The aromas, immediately attractive, are of peach and apricot. It is the zesty acidity that makes the quick impression on the palate balancing the fruit flavours of this 100% Pinot Grigio. Chilled this down during a sunny day (during the recent heatwave) and think we got the best from it. Very pleasant, refreshing and Highly Recommended.

Lynne Coyle: Combining two of the summer’s most popular wine styles, Pinot Grigio and rosé, this wine comes from a family winemaking project, headed by Roberto Pasqua of our Musella winepartners in the Veneto. The label is a fond representation of retro Italian posters; stylish, elegant and eye catching.

* See also earlier short post on two of the other new wines (including an excellent Novas Viognier) here.