Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail. Museums, Galleries, including Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

 Cork Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail

Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

The stairs at the National Gallery. Only the risers are coloured. So, you see the
colours as you go up, not as you descend.

We began our Dublin culture trek with a “serious” visit to the National Gallery and ended it with a laugh a minute roll through the National Wax Museum. In between, we visited the National Museum, The Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI), and GPO.

We had just an hour to spare when we reached the Gallery in Merrion Square and headed straight up the stairs (there is no lift) to the Hugh Lane rooms and to the John Minihan Visual Poetry in particular.  Minihan, who Hot Press recently called a "quiet architect of cultural memory", was born in Dublin and raised in Athy and, at 16 years of age, began his photography career with the Daily Mail in London. Soon he was shooting the stars of the art world, of painting, music (Springsteen), and literature (most notably Samuel Beckett).

All the photos here are in black and white, which he regarded as the true colours of photography. While shots of the famous helped make his reputation, he never forgot his roots and regularly returned to Athy to photograph the local characters, a task he would replicate in West Cork in later years. 

Entitled “Visual Poetry”, it is an amazing exhibition and continues until October 11th. Much more info on this video here.

A few steps away, you’ll find the Gallery’s most famous painting, The Taking of Christ, by the Italian maestro Caravaggio.  Centuries between the Italian and Irish artists but Caravaggio’s technique of transfixing subjects in bright shafts of light and darkening shadows reminds me of Minihan’s Black and White. I’d like to think there’d have been a mutual bond between them had they met.

Look at that head of hair on the man from the bog. Pic taken on a previous visit.

Bodies From The Bog

We had promised ourselves a return visit to the magnificent National Museum (archaeology) in Kildare Street, We have been there a few times and still the magnificent dome inside the door took my breath away. Entrance is free, do pop in and take in that dome at least. There are 9 areas of interest (over 2 floors, no lift) and we had two in mind: Ireland's gold and Kingship & Sacrifice (where we found the bog bodies).

There were three on display, from the National Museum of Ireland collections - Gallagh Man, Co. Galway and Baronstown West Man, Co. Kildare and Croghan Man. 

The latter, an Offaly man, is dated to between 362 and 175 B.C. The Gallagh man is 470–120 BC while the Baronstown West guy is much more recent, dated to between AD 242 and 388. The Meathman, another of bodies recovered from Irish bogs, is dated between 700 and 400 BCE. And, yes, they found he had used hair gel. 

Also on the trip:

Two French Restaurants in Dublin 2

EPIC - Irish Emigration Museum

Three Dublin Cafes worth noting.

Bouef & Frites. Superb Steak

Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail.  Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan

Gold (this from Tipperary) forms part of the impressive collection at the National Museum

Award Winner Disappoints

at MoLI

I had long anticipated visiting Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI) but left disappointed. The historic building has been beautifully restored and the rooms are magnificent. Aside from an extensive Joyce area, it barely scratches the surface of Irish literature. Inspiring quotes abound but memorabilia of the many Irish authors is scarce. All in all, for me it falls flat. 

The lovely Commons Room serves as a day time restaurant.

Wax Museum. For The Craic. And The Odd Screech!

Shadow of a gunman, Wax Museum

We had a very enjoyable visit to the National Wax Museum with surprises around every corner. Certainly in the Hall of Mirrors, where you’ll struggle to find your way, bumping up against yourself, sometimes shoulder to shoulder, in an almost disquieting way, a way that soon becomes frustrating. But, stick with it, if I can do it, so can you.

There’s a series of horror surprises but also family-friendly exhibits, fantasy zones and Irish history and a “musical pub” with some of our best known performers. Group options including schools, parties and murder mystery experiences. It is a lot of fun, within yards of O’Connell Bridge.

Lightfinger at the Wax Museum

Witness History

The GPO Witness History is located, in fairly cramped quarters, inside the historic building on O'Connell Street. So cramped that a guided tour will hold up the self-guiders.

Stamps issued in 2016 to commemorate the centenary of the Rising

Quite a bit of memorabilia from that pivotal week in April 1916, photos of the freedom fighters and tales of the dead, both old and young (2-year old Sean Francis Foster was shot in his pram - see stamp above).

Highlight is perhaps the 17 minute immersive film that runs frequently during the day. The fighters shout, bullets fly; noises comes from all sides and the rapid screen changes combine to make this dizzily immersive.

Time then to head to the peaceful Green Garden Kitchen cafe upstairs.

You can just turn up at many of Dublin's main attractions but other places including Old Kilmainham Gaol, the Rock 'n' Roll Museum, and EPIC should be booked in advance.

Castlebar’s House of Plates - The Corncrake - National Museum & Cafe - Ellison Hotel. Three Days in Mayo #3

Castlebar’s House of Plates - The Corncrake -  National Museum & Cafe - Ellison Hotel

Mayo's west coast is corncrake country.
The secretive bird who visits every year from Africa
is making something of a comeback here.
This eye-catching mural may be seen in Blacksod.

Three Days in Mayo #3
Eat. See. Stay.

House of Plates looks a bit different. The exterior is one of just a few commercial premises on a mainly residential street. Inside, they describe it fairly accurately as 'rustic industrial’. The well-used seats come, secondhand, from Knock Basilica, but it is Chef Barry Ralph’s creations on those plates that earn the place its halo.

Barry Ralph's Halibut

Sure, there’s plenty to look at here when you come in from the street, especially the work of local artist Sarah O’Neill, a local artist from Castlebar, Co.Mayo. House of Plates is a contemporary restaurant in Castlebar that Sarah has expressed this on her mural.  The work on the walls combines local historical imagery with bold, street-style art. Photos of locals (and staff) mixed in with bold geometric forms, plus an exposed-stone archway between the front and back sections of the restaurant, along with clusters of exposed filament lights, catch the eye.

Goats Cheese starter

But back to the table where the light is in a jam jar, and overhead, another light is half hidden in a rustic timber box. Plenty of light to read the menu, though, and in the two snacks (complimentary), you’ll see immediately that the kitchen practices what it preaches about seasonality, provenance and local.

Start your evening with a little snack of byproduct espuma. They make this by aerating roasted potato skins and other kitchen waste and serve it with a little cloud of seaweed smoke. The breads come with Cuinneog Butter, Achill Sea Salt, roast garlic and rosemary oil, along with an elderflower and blackberry balsamic.

The Raleigh bike features prominently at the National Museum.
No sign of the Honda 50 though!

After that, from starter to the Rum Baba dessert, the sky’s the limit. Aided by Albarino and Gruner Veltliner, we enjoyed a Goats’ Cheese dish and a Ham Hock Tartlet for starters, before a magnificent Halibut dish (with smoked haddock arancini, warm tartare sauce, and crispy leek) and a splendid Marinated Chicken Supreme with new-season asparagus.

The day had started with an average breakfast in the Ellison. Glad to say, though, that everything else here was top-notch, including a lovely bar, great staff in every section, a superb car park (with direct access to the hotel’s lift), and a very convenient location for us.

Long before air fryers, you had the kitchen crane, bellows, and bastible.

For quite a few years now, we have held back from visiting the National Museum of Ireland at nearby Turlough Park, keeping it for a rainy day. This was the day! The Museum is home to Ireland’s Folklife Collection, which covers subjects such as Hearth and Home, Cycling, Straw, Hay, and Rushes, Clothing and Textiles, and the Natural Environment. It is spread over four floors. You enter - there is no charge on floor A, and then go down (yes) to the others. On the bottom floor, there is currently a special feature on bees.

There is, of course, a shop here and a café. Here we enjoyed a midday snack. The café is Synge & Byrne, and they offer breakfast and lunch (soups, sandwiches, wraps) in a bright and airy space and serve outdoors on fine days. They also do bakes, lots of drinks (hot and cold, and iced) and cater for kids (who’ll also be on the lookout for their pink ice cream cart).

The Ellison, very comfortable base in Castlebar.

After our outstanding meal at House of Plates, it was back to the hotel bar, Siar, and our friendly server (from the night before) who had my Dingle Single Malt ready before I ordered it! Surprised him then, though, by making my final nightcap a smooth and mellow Green Spot.

The impressive Mayo Peace Park -
just across the road from the Ellison

Tory Island is often called Ireland’s “corncrake capital” but the shy, secretive bird also enjoys visiting the west coast of Mayo. It makes its way here, annually, from Africa. Conservation measures are in force to protect this endangered species. You’ll see quite a bit about the bird in the areas’ visiting centres such as the one at Ballycroy.

Three Days in Mayo #1

Three Days in Mayo #2 

Three Days in Mayo #3