Cork Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail
Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan
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| The stairs at the National Gallery. Only the risers are coloured. So, you see the colours as you go up, not as you descend. |
We began our Dublin culture trek with a “serious” visit to the National Gallery and ended it with a laugh a minute roll through the National Wax Museum. In between, we visited the National Museum, The Museum of Literature Ireland (MoLI), and GPO.
We had just an hour to spare when we reached the Gallery in Merrion Square and headed straight up the stairs (there is no lift) to the Hugh Lane rooms and to the John Minihan Visual Poetry in particular. Minihan, who Hot Press recently called a "quiet architect of cultural memory", was born in Dublin and raised in Athy and, at 16 years of age, began his photography career with the Daily Mail in London. Soon he was shooting the stars of the art world, of painting, music (Springsteen), and literature (most notably Samuel Beckett).
All the photos here are in black and white, which he regarded as the true colours of photography. While shots of the famous helped make his reputation, he never forgot his roots and regularly returned to Athy to photograph the local characters, a task he would replicate in West Cork in later years.
Entitled “Visual Poetry”, it is an amazing exhibition and continues until October 11th. Much more info on this video here.
A few steps away, you’ll find the Gallery’s most famous painting, The Taking of Christ, by the Italian maestro Caravaggio. Centuries between the Italian and Irish artists but Caravaggio’s technique of transfixing subjects in bright shafts of light and darkening shadows reminds me of Minihan’s Black and White. I’d like to think there’d have been a mutual bond between them had they met.
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| Look at that head of hair on the man from the bog. Pic taken on a previous visit. |
We had promised ourselves a return visit to the magnificent National Museum (archaeology) in Kildare Street, We have been there a few times and still the magnificent dome inside the door took my breath away. Entrance is free, do pop in and take in that dome at least. There are 9 areas of interest (over 2 floors, no lift) and we had two in mind: Ireland's gold and Kingship & Sacrifice (where we found the bog bodies).
There were three on display, from the National Museum of Ireland collections - Gallagh Man, Co. Galway and Baronstown West Man, Co. Kildare and Croghan Man.
The latter, an Offaly man, is dated to between 362 and 175 B.C. The Gallagh man is 470–120 BC while the Baronstown West guy is much more recent, dated to between AD 242 and 388. The Meathman, another of bodies recovered from Irish bogs, is dated between 700 and 400 BCE. And, yes, they found he had used hair gel.
Also on the trip:
Two French Restaurants in Dublin 2
EPIC - Irish Emigration Museum
Three Dublin Cafes worth noting.
Culchies on the Capital Culture Trail. Visual Poetry. The Photography Of John Minihan
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| Gold (this from Tipperary) forms part of the impressive collection at the National Museum |
Award Winner Disappoints
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| at MoLI |
The lovely Commons Room serves as a day time restaurant.
Wax Museum. For The Craic. And The Odd Screech!
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| Shadow of a gunman, Wax Museum |
We had a very enjoyable visit to the National Wax Museum with surprises around every corner. Certainly in the Hall of Mirrors, where you’ll struggle to find your way, bumping up against yourself, sometimes shoulder to shoulder, in an almost disquieting way, a way that soon becomes frustrating. But, stick with it, if I can do it, so can you.
There’s a series of horror surprises but also family-friendly exhibits, fantasy zones and Irish history and a “musical pub” with some of our best known performers. Group options including schools, parties and murder mystery experiences. It is a lot of fun, within yards of O’Connell Bridge.
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| Lightfinger at the Wax Museum |
Witness History
The GPO Witness History is located, in fairly cramped quarters, inside the historic building on O'Connell Street. So cramped that a guided tour will hold up the self-guiders.
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| Stamps issued in 2016 to commemorate the centenary of the Rising |
Quite a bit of memorabilia from that pivotal week in April 1916, photos of the freedom fighters and tales of the dead, both old and young (2-year old Sean Francis Foster was shot in his pram - see stamp above).
Highlight is perhaps the 17 minute immersive film that runs frequently during the day. The fighters shout, bullets fly; noises comes from all sides and the rapid screen changes combine to make this dizzily immersive.
Time then to head to the peaceful Green Garden Kitchen cafe upstairs.
You can just turn up at many of Dublin's main attractions but other places including Old Kilmainham Gaol, the Rock 'n' Roll Museum, and EPIC should be booked in advance.
