Thursday, April 7, 2011

CLASSY FRUIT OF AN INDIAN SUMMER

Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, Chardonnay 2009, 13.5%, €16.99, stockists   
During a recent French holiday, the question of what information should appear on the label came up. Our host was quite adamant that it should be the wine-maker’s name and had no time at all for those who want the grape variety there. “We use up to nine different grapes in one wine here. How do you fit all of them on the label?”
So we start now with some info on Kevin O’Brien the maker of this top drawer Chardonnay. The James Halliday Wine Companion 2010 has honoured Kangarilla Road as a 5 Star Winery.
Praise too from
Robert Parker: “Kevin O’Brien is a winemaker with a knack for turning out high quality efforts. These are all classic McLaren Vale cuvees with a sense of balance and restraint suggestive of European influence however there is no compromise of the wines flavours or ripeness levels.” 
Colour is a pale honey while the nose is pleasantly floral over the citrus aromas. The zesty citrus flavours make their presence felt on the palate. Elegant with a lingering flavoursome finish, this is one of the most complete Chardonnays you are likely to come across.
Recently I wrote that “if I had to select one area for Chardonnay that I would be quite happy with Burgundy”. But, of course, I don’t have to select one area. Must say that I am very pleasantly surprised with this effort by the O’Brien of the Kangarilla Road Winery.
Their own notes are worth looking at here as they go a long way towards explaining the quality of this Chardonnay.
“Our long, dry growing season can often become an ‘Indian Summer’ allowing us to create Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay rich in fruity aromas and flavours and balanced nicely in the reds with soft approachable tannins.
Our Chardonnay is a fresh citrus driven style complemented by the light use of oak with 30% of the wine fermented in new French oak Barriques. This wine was matured for around 100 days in oak with daily barrel stirring. The oak component is unobtrusive yet critical to the overall aroma and flavour texture.”

I described the Kangarilla Road Shiraz 2008 (14.5%, €15.99) as  a serious player and, after a second “meeting” last night, see no reason to change the first opinion

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