Exploring Waterford’s Viking Triangle.
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| Wedding of Strongbow and Aoife |
A little industry has sprung up around Waterford’s Viking Triangle. It didn’t happen by accident; a lot of hard work and planning have made this attraction a must-visit. Luckily enough, much of the history can be easily found in a small area, and perhaps the best way to do so is to invest in the Freedom of Waterford pass from umbrella group Waterford Treasures.
For just 18 euro, the flexible and discounted Freedom of Waterford ticket allows the visitor to enjoy an ‘Epic’ walking tour of the Viking Triangle with an expert guide, taking in 1,000 years of history in 1,000 paces. Plus, complete access to the Medieval Museum, Bishop’s Palace, The Irish Museum of Time, The Irish Silver Museum, and Christ Church Cathedral.
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| Meagher's swords. The one on the right was made by Tiffany's, New York |
We did it all in one day, but you can spread it over a few days if it suits you. And it may well suit quite a few, as there is a good deal of walking and standing involved.
We met Anna, our tour guide, just outside the Bishop’s Palace, which is under repair and under a wrap. She set the background to the area, though frustrated that the palace and the Theatre Royal (our next stop) were both hidden behind scaffolding.
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| Name of the long boat by Reginald's Tower. |
Another stop was to show the remains of the medieval wall and its infamous murder hole. Anna was informative and lively, acting it up a little and enhancing the dry history.
Even Thomas Francis Meagher, the Irish patriot, American soldier and governor, came in for a little ribbing. Meagher, born 1823, was convicted of sedition and, like many an Irishman, was transported to Tasmania. He eventually escaped to the US, where he fought on the Union side in the Civil War, later, briefly, becoming governor of Montana before drowning in the Mississippi while on a steamboat trip in 1867.
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| Christchurch Cathedral |
He is remembered for being the first man to unfurl the Irish tricolour, which took place on the Mall (where we walked). The tricolour was hung from one of its splendid Georgian houses, and an impressive statue of Meagher on horseback and in his American army uniform stands there.
Soon we were at Reginald’s Tower, alongside which stands a recently constructed long boat. These were used by the Vikings and this one has the name “VADRARFJORDR” on it. I think you’ll guess what that represents!
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| Two sturdy grandfathers and an eye-catching Australian made pocket watch in the Museum of Time |
Then we passed Greyfairs (the monks here wore "cheap" grey outfits, and while not too far away, a better class of monks wore black and were known as the black friars).
Soon, we were at the Christchurch Cathedral, and Anna was talking about its famous architect, Honest John Roberts. He was a very busy architect but still found time to ensure that a worker’s pay came on time and often arranged for it to end up in the hands of his wife rather than in those of the publican!
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| Amazing display of 15th-century cloth-of-gold church vestments in the Medieval Museum |
After lunch at the café in the nearby House of Waterford, we visited the four centres covered by our pass. Perhaps the Bishop's Palace and the Medieval Museum are the most interesting, but there is also lots to see in the Museum of Time and the Irish Silver Museum.
Other attractions that may be visited, all in the triangle but not covered by the pass, are Reginald’s Tower , King of the Vikings , and the Irish Wake Museum. We’ll have to return to the city.
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| Fuller's Bistro. Lunch venue in Lismore. |
We entered the county itself via Lismore and, after lunch, headed up the Vee, just as the spoilsport rain arrived to spoil the mountain view.
We took the Cappoquin road on the way down from the hills and headed for the Dromana Arch, a Hindu Gothic gate dating from around 1830, a few minutes south of Cappoquin.
It was originally built from wood and papier mache to greet the owner of the Dromana Estate, Henry Villiers-Stuart, and his wife, Theresa Pauline Ott of Vienna, on returning from their honeymoon in 1826. The couple was so enchanted with the gate that it was reconstructed in stone in later years. Nowadays, it is looked after by the Waterford County Council.
By the way, if you come from the south, you will drive through Villierstown, the birthplace of the famous world and Olympic runner John Treacy. At the end of the village, the road reaches a pair of impressive pillars. No need to detour, carry on through, this is a public road, and soon you'll be at the arch.
Also on this trip:
The Granville Hotel
Bodéga Waterford
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