Champagne Dinner at Greene’s

Champagne Dinner at Greene’s

Bruno Paillard comes to town

A dinner with a difference at Greene’s of McCurtain Street this week. Not alone was champagne served with each course but it was also used as an ingredient in each.

This marriage of the wine-making skills at Bruno Paillard and the cooking skills of Green’s French chef Frederic Desormeaux meant we enjoyed a super evening.

Scallop

François Colas of Bruno Paillard, who kept us informed on the wines, was loud in his praise of Fred afterwards: “He was able to read the wines, especially with the dessert.”

Fred was much too modest to take all the praise for himself and introduced us to his sous chef Veronica and also to Nicky, the man responsible for the excellent dessert.

Turbo

The evening got off to a terrific  start with a warm greeting from Sylvia and Collette of Greene’s and a glass of bubbly poured by Searson’s Damien Archer-Good (the man who covers Waterford, Cork and Kerry for the company). Not just any bubbly, mind you. This was the Brut Premier Cuvée, full bodied, well flavoured and balanced, all elegance in the glass and on the palate.

The starter was Pan-Fried King’s Scallops on Julienne of Leeks and Carrots, “Blanc de Blancs” Beurre Nantais. Under “directions” from Francois, we had a sip of the second wine, before we took a bite and the Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée did seem a little on the austere side.

But all that changed when we had a bite of the scallop and another sip. Now it had a different personality and we could endorse the opinion of a certain Robert Parker: “A fresh, bright sparkler, it will be found particularly successful if paired with food.”

Choucroute de la Mer

Two fish courses followed and gave us the opportunity to sample the first two wines again and, more importantly, to appreciate the different qualities of each. The Blanc de Blanc is 100% Chardonnay while the Brut is 22% Pinot Meunier, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Noir.

The first fish course was Grilled Turbot served with baby carrots, baby fennel, baby courgette, baby leeks gratinated with “Rosé Premiere Cuvée” Hollandaise. Superb.

The second, which provided a stiffer challenge for the champagne, was Choucroute de la Mer: Monkfish, Natural Smoked Haddock, Mussels, Langoustine, Sauerkraut cabbage, Baby Turned potatoes, finished with Cream “Blanc de Blancs”. Some strong flavours there, especially from the haddock and the lovely sauerkraut, but the champagne was well up to it.

Dessert

Fred and Veronica

 And then for that desert: Winter Berries and “Rose Premiere Cuvee” Jelly, topped with raspberries Sorbet, Tuile. An absolute gorgeous desert and it went so well with the Rosé Premiere Cuvée, “a very hard wine to get consistent” according to Francois.

It is produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay “in secret proportions” and a rather difficult technical process gives its “unique fruity flavour and gorgeous copper-gold hue”. It has inviting red fruit aromas; even if blindfolded, you’ll know you have a rosé in your hand! And the palate is fruity and fresh. It is dry of course and hence the need to avoid serving it with sweet desserts. Fred and Nicky read that info correctly to come up with the perfect match!

Bruno Gaillard, who sold his car (a big one) to start making champagne in 1989, is a “baby” in the history of the famous wine but a baby who has made a major impact. Read more of the fascinating story here 

Classy Burger at Greene’s

Classy Burger at Greene’s

Not a regular burger man but all that could change after polishing off a tremendous one at Greene’s Restaurant in McCurtain Street. Called in there one wet lunch-hour last week and got a gorgeous surprise when welcomed by Sylvia. We were there to try the bar food, which they serve from noon ‘til five. Knowing the work of Fred, the chef here, we expected it to be good. Sylvia confirmed that and then of course the meal itself was proof positive.

Our waitress soon brought us the menu which has a soup, the Burger, a Pasta dish and a number of baguette sandwich choices, not to mention one or two desserts. Enough to be going on with. We each picked the Soup of the Day (Potato and Leek) and the Burger.

Started with the soup and then came the Burger, my second of the week. The first was a mini version at the launch of Fresco Bistro. And what they had in common was top quality meat. The Greene’s one was served with a Jalapeno relish, smoked cheddar cheese and duck fat fries.

The melted cheese added to the experience as did the excellent relish, neither as red nor as sharp as some others, and the fries. Quite a lot of eating here and great value at a tenner. Oh, forgot to mention the bap. I usually leave at least half but this was so tasty in its own right that barely a crumb survived.

Quite possibly the best burger I’ve tasted and glad to have had a glass of the quality house wine, a Cabernet Sauvignon, to accompany it. Excellent service too and comfortable seats in the bar area all helped.

GREENE’S BY THE WATERFALL

GREENE’S: THE GEM BY THE WATERFALL

Loved a classic Coq au Vin @Greenescork last night! And a glass of Jumilla Monastrell. French dish, Spanish wine, local ingredients, 5 stars.

That’s the way I summed up Wednesday’s meal in Greene’s Restaurant in McCurtain Street. But Twitter’s 140 characters may have been better used had I included their Paris born chef Frederic Desormeaux.

I had noticed his expertise and innovation during a stop at the restaurant during the Cork Gourmet Trail and had promised myself a return visit. I wasn't at all disappointed.

I am amazed that queues don't form outside Greene’s on a  regular basis such is the quality of the food, the ambiance of the place with it big glass window by the waterfall, it’s comfortable restful decor and its friendly, informative and efficient service team.

It wasn't the best of nights weatherwise yet still that waterfall added a certain je ne sais quoi to the occasion as we sat at our window table. There are two menus here, an Early Bird that has four courses (with choices) for €27.00 and the A La Carte.

We picked the latter on this occasion and made our order. Our wait was shortened by the appearance of an amuse bouche: a little round fishcake on a beautiful sauce. We also had a bowl of tasty breads.

Wines were ordered: a glass of Rioja Tempranillo and one of Jumilla Monastrell, each around the six euro mark. They have a wide ranging wine list and quite a few are available by the glass, some by the half bottle.

CL chose the Gratinated Mussels with Garlic & Lemon Butter, Parsley Crust (€9.00) as her starter. Excellent and very tasty, a great change from the more usual Moules Marinieres in one version or the other.

Mine was perhaps a bit more substantial but also very very tasty, quite a mix of flavours (the tomatoes were absolutely top class) and all in all a terrific starter: Grilled Buffalo Mozzarella wrapped in Serrano Ham on Grilled Asparagus, with caramelised Cherry Tomatoes on Mini Pizza Pastry, Rocket Pesto (€10.50).

We’ve had a quite few Coq au Vin over the years, most notably in the Dordogne the summer before last, and I can honestly say that the Greene’s version is the best yet. In France, you tend to get the tougher bits of older chicken. But in Greene’s they use local free range chicken in the most fantastic sauce. Had a few doubts about the mashed potato but it proved a perfect partner, helping take up the sauce. We had a spoon as well – you didn't want to leave any of it behind!

The menu description: Classic Coq au Vin - Free Range Breast of Irish Chicken Cooked in Red Wine, Smoked Lardons, Baby Onions, Girolle Mushrooms served with Creamy Scallion Mash (€21.00).

GREENE'S (by the waterfall)

GREENE’S   

What did we ever do before butternut squash?

That question was popped in Greene’s Restaurant (by the waterfall) last evening as Dine in Cork Week continued with yet another smashing meal for €25.00.

The butternut squash came in one of the starters where it was combined with Ardsallagh Goats Cheese in a Spring roll, quite a large one, served with mixed baby leaves and a beetroot dressing. We both enjoyed one.

Then on to the main courses. The West Cork confit of duck leg was on  parmesan mash, braised red cabbage and a rosemary jus. An excellent deep plateful though the strongish aroma of the Rosemary jus permeated everything.

We also had the 8 oz ribeye steak, with a brandy pepper sauce. It was cooked to perfection and the presentation was impressive as the dauphnoise potato stack had a neat layer of onion added before being crowned with a Portobello mushroom. Enjoyed that one!

I went for the Irish Liqueur Crème Caramel. It was a lovely dessert but I must say the Crème Brule across the table was really one of the best we’ve ever come across and to top it off it was served with a few delicious homemade shortbread biscuits and ice-cream, a real five star treat.

Very happy too with our bottle of the house red (c €23.00),  a Sicilian Ca'di Ponti Nero D'Avola 2008. It was a juicy, easy-drinking treat with “ripe black cherry and plum fruit” and a hint of spice. Coffee was also included in the price and needless to say we got a friendly welcome and excellent service. Highly recommended. Got out and try that Dine in Cork menu. Most restaurants, including Greene’s have four choices per course and you won't go wrong!

www.greenesrestaurant.com/

Tel +353 21 4552279

Greenes Restaurant McCurtain Street Cork

GREENES

Had coffee and scones in Greenes by the waterfall this Saturday morning. Great coffee, great scone (not to mention jam and cream) – all well presented by a friendly waitress. Sat back in the comfortable chairs and enjoyed it very much indeed. Cost for two: €10.40.

It was one of the three best coffee and scone combinations that I've enjoyed recently around town. Nash 19 and the Hawthorn Bar on the Lough were the others.

Check out my review of Greenes Restaurant Hotle Isaacs - I am cork - on Qype

WONDERFALL

EARLY BIRD SCORES AGAIN

(but sting in the tail...)

Greene’s, the restaurant by the waterfall in McCurtain Street, is a little bit pricier. But it is also a little bit better. I sampled their early bird (€28.00) recently and felt I had struck a culinary jackpot.

Starter was the Prawns Scampi (see menu illustration). They and the wedges looked scarce enough on the plate but were quite sufficient as a starter. Not just sufficient. They were excellent.

Main course was the Salmon. Oh, so tasty. And the vegetable accompaniment was also brilliant. The Advisor opted for the Toulouse Sausage. She doesn’t go far wrong. Indeed, she wasn't wrong at all. It was absolutely splendid and the Red Wind jus was one of the best sauces of its kind that we’ve ever come across.

After all that, we said we’d settle for a simple dessert and the Crème Caramel seemed to fit the bill. Again there was surprise. The citron just made this plate. Again so tasty. Demolishable!!! But at a leisurely pace.

Service was the usual league of nations that we’ve come to expect in Ireland. But that is only half the story. The young people smiled. They were friendly and above all they were efficient.

By the way, my wine was yet another Pinot Grigio. Again this one (€22.5) was from the Venice region but was tarty and bright and came quite close to matching the bottle from the Trentino region that I found so appealing in Switzerland (see Swissroll07.blogspot.com).

Oh Oh! After that so positive review, sad to report that during that night and into the following day, each of us suffered from an upset stomach! Arret