A Special Lunch in the Superb Isaac's Restaurant, Cork

 A Special Lunch in the superb Isaac's Restaurant, Cork

Storm Austen and Storm Boelo failed to stop a gathering of family members last week at 48 MacCurtain Street, to celebrate a birthday and what has become an annual reunion. 

Since 1992, Isaacs have operated here, in a restored 18th-century warehouse located (opposite Dan Lowry’s pub). The restaurant was popular from early on. The Ryan family, who had earned Cork’s first Michelin Star at the Arbutus Lodge, and chef Canice Sharkey were behind the venture, still thriving at a high level as we rediscovered last week.

So, well over 30 years here for Isaac's. But that figure is dwarfed by the previous occupants, the removals specialist Nat Ross*. They were founded in 1881 and 48 MacCurtain Street was a key warehouse. Many of us would be familiar with the company’s yellow vans and trucks. But, just look at the archways, either side of Isaacs, and you see no room for trucks but you easily imagine horses and furniture-loaded wagons making their noisy way in and out.

Back to the food now at Isaacs and each and every one -we had ten in all - enjoyed the meal, start to finish. Service was, as always, superb. Food and drinks were delivered with a chat and a smile, even when the server was requested to take a group photo! As you can gather, it is one of my Very Highly Recommended restaurants.

One of the mains specials, the Monkfish Scampi with skinny fries, mixed leaf salad & tartare sauce. The Monkfish immediately caught the eye in the menu and it turned out to quite a dish and kept five of us happy. Another popular fish dish was the Grilled fillets of Plaice with autumn greens & lemon beurre blanc.

Traditional Roast Chicken with a Herb stuffing buttered leeks, herb stuffing,
cabbage & chive cream sauce. A top dish.
Another treat was the Isaac’s Fish & potato cakes with mixed leaves & tartare sauce. 

Another well appreciated special was the Skeaghanore Duck confit with champ,
caramelised onions & herb butter. This went down very well indeed with our visitors from the UK.

Most of us started with their traditional creamy Seafood Chowder with Garlic Croutons. Soup of the day (potato, onion and thyme with Parsley Pesto) was also enjoyed as was the Crab crumble with Horizon Farm mix leaves and chive mayo. 

The core of the daily menu here doesn’t change that much over a season but, once the long list of daily specials is added, you’ll have quite a selection to choose from. Southern fried chicken wings with Sriracha mayo and tossed salad along with

Pan fried wild forest mushrooms on toasted sourdough with parmesan shavings were among last week's specials as starters.

 

On a previous visit this summer, their boozy Chocolate Saint Emilion dessert (above) was a highlight for me. It is synonymous with Isaac's and was also served in the Arbutus.  Following two fine courses, I didn't think I'd manage it on this occasion, so I opted for one of the specials instead. That was the Panna Cotta with Poached Plum, just the job, lighter and very delicious (especially the plum!).  Other sweets much appreciated within the group were Apple & Blackberry crumble with cream and also the Bread & Butter pudding with crème anglaise.

And, of course we had a drink (or two) from their long list of wines (some non alcoholic), draught beers (Murphy's and Heineken), craft beer by Eight Degrees and non alcoholic by Fierce Mild, and cider from Stonewell including their zero zero. Quite a few of the wines (including house wines) are available by the glass, carafe and bottle.

The pair of us shared a carafe (500ml) of the Wine of the Month special: Campogrande

Orvieto DOC Classico 2025 from Tuscany. Italy has 100s, probably 1000s, of grape varieties and this Orvieto blend is composed of 60% Grechetto and Procanico—the local name for Trebbiano Toscano. In any case it was quite a match for the monkfish and the chicken.  

* Now part of a broader property and services grouping, Nat Ross maintains its independent operational identity and you’ll find them in the Southside Industrial Estate in Pouladuff Road. They are still heavily involved in removals, domestic and business, and also specialise in Fine Art removal, and storage in general. More here.