Ballycotton blessed to have Sea Church, where a top-notch crew transforms quality local produce into dishes to remember.

Ballycotton blessed to have Sea Church, where a top-notch crew transforms quality local produce into dishes to remember.

Fred's Chowder

Fish is prominent in the exciting new menu at Sea Church. And rightly so, as the spacious venue (formerly a school and located next door to a former church) is just a stroll away from Ballycotton harbour. When it comes to preparing fish, Executive Head Chef Fred Desomereux is the perfect man to get the best from it.

And it is not just fish that Fred and Head Chef Marcus O’Meara excel at; they also create outstanding meat dishes. We discovered this during a recent visit, just two weeks after the new team took over. Additional changes include the appointment of Sandra Biret-Crowley as restaurant manager. Many of you know that Sandra has spent several years as sommelier at the Hayfield Manor and, more recently, at the Castlemartyr Resort.

Sea Bass on the bone

Fred, who first worked in Ballycotton some 25 years ago, has since been cooking up a storm in places such as Greenes and Quinlans (both in Cork City). He has always had a particular talent for preparing fish dishes.

Monkfish starter

Naturally, I started with Fred’s Mediterranean Seafood Chowder (Creamy Tomato-Based with Smoky Bacon, Safron, White wine, Potatoes, Mixed Fish, Prawns, and Mussels) served with Stout Brown Bread. It was a superb mix, packed to the gills with textures and flavours (including that smoky bacon). Perhaps the best chowder I’ve ever tasted. 

CL, sitting on the opposite side of the table, had become quiet, pausing their conversation as they enjoyed the delightful Breaded Monkfish Scampi Starter served on a bed of Ballycotton Smoked Salmon Potato Salad, topped with Basil and Lime. The salad was exceptional, and this dish is also available as a main course.

Speaking of mains, the menu featured two specials that exemplified what can be expected here. One was a Fish and Seafood Platter, which included Seared Yellowfin Tuna, Cold Giant Shrimp, Smoked Mackerel, Anchovies, Ballycotton Smoked Salmon, Brown Soda Bread, and Smoked Salmon Potato Salad. From the land, there was the Caherbeg Farm 10oz Ribeye Steak, accompanied by Garlic Flat Mushrooms, Wild Baby Potatoes, and your choice of Brandy Pepper Sauce or Garlic Butter.

One of our main dishes was Baked Whole Sea Bass on the Bone, which featured olives, capers, sun-blushed tomatoes, anchovies, garlic butter, and white wine, served with buttery parsley baby potatoes. The cooking time for this dish is 25 minutes, but the wait is well worth it for a delicious experience. The flesh of the fish was firm, flaky, and white, with delicate flavours enhanced by the cooking method. Even the olives and capers played an outstanding supporting role in the dish.

Beef Cheeks Bourguignon

I chose the 5-Hour Slow Braised Beef Cheeks Bourguignon, which came with creamy buttery mash, sautéed wild mushrooms, and wilted spinach in a Bourguignon sauce. The stew, from a freshly cooked batch, featured tender, falling-off-the-bone beef and flavourful vegetables, including carrots, onions, and superb mushrooms, all enveloped in a velvety sauce. The rich, colourful red wine sauce was simply irresistible, and I even grabbed a spoon to savour the last drop! Like the fish dish, the Bourguignon was top-notch—a definite winner.

Sea Church 
 and school. Church 
building is now a music
venue, while the school
(right) is where you dine!

The desserts were all freshly made and absolutely delicious. I particularly enjoyed the Raspberry & Lemon Crème Brûlée, where the juicy fruit added a flavour and tartness not typically associated with this dish. It was superbly executed, with creamy and smooth custard beneath a crunchy, caramelised topping.

The service, including that from the bar (Teeling's Single Malt and Horgelus Sauvignon Blanc/Colombard), was friendly, informative, and very efficient. When we arrived early in the evening, the weather was dry, but by the time we said goodbye, it had started to rain. Fortunately, our drive was waiting in the large car park just across the road.