Bottoms Up with Belgian and Irish Beers. #3

Bottoms Up with Belgian and Irish Beers.

#3

Porterhouse Hersbruker Hops Pilsner, 5.0%, 500ml bottle

Gold in colour, nice white head (doesn’t last long), plenty of bubbles. Fruity, floral and spicy aromas. A very pleasant step-up on the normal lager, good clean taste, excellent backbone of hops, a refreshing balanced Pilsner, and very satisfying overall.

They say: a classic Mittel Europa style of Pilsner and a seriously good night.This is a classic, stylish Pilsner. Think Rolling Stones, not Justin Bieber. We brew for taste and in the brewing we look carefully at how we do it. We don’t add any “extras” – no additives, no enhancing chemicals. Just simple, pure ingredients.

By the way, how many think of Justin Bieber while having a pint?

Closed with cap, with pull-off tab. Label tells us it’s an Honest Independent Beer. No guidance on bottle as to serving temperature, but around the 8 degree marks seems fine.

Malts: Lager Malt, Cara Malt, Vienna Male, Munich Malt

Hops: Galena, Nugget, Hallertau Hersbrucker, Hallertau Perle.

Wicklow Wolf “Apex Oatmeal Stout”, 6.5%, 440ml can

Pours black with a short-lived coffee head. Chocolate and coffee mingle on the smooth and slightly sweet palate. Creamy and full flavoured from start to finish. Nothing wrong with cream, as we know very well in Cork, but personally I’d prefer a little more bite, just a little, from the black wolf.

They say: A member of the Alpha Pack, their core range, Apex champions a heavy malt bill, brewed with only the best flaked Irish Oats, specialty chocolate and coffee malts. Expect an intense burst of fresh roast coffee, milk chocolate & a delicious creamy smoothness. A full flavoured stout that will leave you wanting more.

Hops used is Apollo and the advice is to serve this stout at 8 degrees.

Did you know, they have their own hop farm in Roundwood?  They are committed to sustainability - that’s why they’ve moved from bottles to cans - and you can also read about that on the site.

Westmalle Trappist Dubbel, 7%, 33cl bottle

As you pour, note the raised Trappist collar around the neck, a material reminder that this revered beer comes from the Westmalle abbey, about 40 minutes drive east of Antwerp.

Colour is a reddish brown with a big off white head. The mildly intense aromas of ripe banana, caramel and hops are unusual, at least to me.  And you’ll find that mildness also as you savour the complex taste (remember this beer has had a re-fermentation in the bottle), malt and fruit in harmony, right through to the fresh and hoppy dry finalé. An elegant grown up beer to be served at 6-14 degrees. 

The brewer makes three beers. Westmalle Tripel and Dubbel are sold by stores and served in cafés and restaurants in Belgium and the Netherlands. You will also find them in selected outlets around the world.

Westmalle Extra is only brewed twice a year and is produced for the monks’ own use. The monks and their guests consume it with their midday meal.

What to pair with your Dubbel? Check some very interesting suggestions here.

Westmalle Abbey forms part of the Order of Cistercians of the Strict Observance. All communities in the Order maintain ties of mutual solidarity. Each community is a training school in the art of loving thy neighbour. This love and solidarity is extended to all people of good will, as can be clearly seen in the way visitors are received at the abbey.  

Straffe Hendrik Brugs Tripel, 9%, 33cl bottle

This comes from Bruges in a golden robe with a big white head. Mildly citrusy in the aromas. Citrus again on the palate, banana too. Early sweetness turns to bitterness, caramel to citrus, as we reach the finish where the hops come into their own. Well made, well balanced. So far though, the best Belgian has been the Duvel Tripel Hop Citra.

They say: The name means strong Henri. Straffe Hendrik Tripel is a golden triple with a sturdy white collar. The aroma is spicy with hints of black pepper, coriander and ginger, and is even insinuating the presence of oranges.

The beer is brewed with a selection of Saaz and Styrian hops of a very high quality. The subtle blend of six special varieties of malt gives the beer a well-balanced and powerful taste. Refermentation in the bottle generates a long natural shelf life. Serving temperature: 6 degrees.

Food pairing advice: The combination with zesty fish plates is a real treat, but Straffe Hendrik can also be paired with cheeses such as Camembert or Bruges Blomme. Straffe Hendrik is known to be a real delicacy when combined with desserts based on pineapple or mango.

*****
The round, by the way, it not like a boxing round. Not really looking for a winner here. If we have four winners, then so much the better, for me!

Also in this series:

An Irish and Belgian Beer Quartet play a pretty tune on a Friday evening.
Best of Beers. Another Belgian v Irish Round #2

All the beers above were bought in Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork.

Their Belgian Selection box (12 bottles) costs €45.00.

Their Irish Selection box (14 bottles/cans) costs €65.00. 

More details here.

The Mescan Brewery Wheel Makes Food-Pairing Easy!

Mescan Food-Pairing Wheel – the matchmaker for beer and food

Each beer has its own wheel. Check them out here

The innovative Mescan Food-Pairing Wheel is designed to take the angst out of matching beer and food. It’s an easy way to pair each Mescan craft beer with the foods that complement it. It’s available on the website and is easily printable from a pdf format. It’s a useful resource for all the home chefs who are exploring new options in their kitchens during the lockdown.

The Mescan Food-Pairing Wheel was developed by Inge Roels, a Belgian expert in food-pairing who has worked with the brewery since its early days. She has produced a guide for nine Mescan beers so far – Mescan Blond, Westporter Stout, Mescan White, Mescan Red Tripel, Mescan Extra, Mescan Saison, Mescan Special Reserve, Seven Virtues Lager and Seven Virtues Lambik.

“Mescan craft beers are exceptionally suited to enjoying with food”, said Cillian Ó Móráin of Mescan Brewery, “We were inundated with queries as to the best pairings from consumers and from restaurants and bars. We wanted to create something simple yet effective that would help people enjoy our beers with the optimum foods – hence the Mescan Food-Pairing Wheel was born”.

According to the Food-Pairing Wheel, Mescan Blond is a safe bet for many dishes including steaks and sausages on the BBQ, full-bodied Red Tripel finds a match in rich stews or a weighty cheeseboard, Saison suits a curry while Westporter Stout is the tipple of choice for anything chocolatey.

All Mescan beers are brewed in the Belgian style, using very traditional methods, resulting in a broad range of rich and flavourful beers eminently suited to pairing with food. They are vegan friendly and 100% natural.

Mescan Beers are currently available in off licences in Connacht, Dublin, Cork and increasingly around the country. They are also available directly through the website www.mescanbrewery.com. 

press release

Fota House and Gardens, Now Open. Waiting for you (with hours for cocooners). Photos to brighten your day.

Fota House and Gardens, waiting for you!

Now open (with hours for cocooners).

Photos to brighten your day.

"We are delighted to again welcome visitors to enjoy the magnificent grounds from 9.00 AM to 6.00 PM daily following Covid-19 closure. Our grounds access plan is for safe, respectful visits to the Arboretum & Gardens with visitors asked to observe HSE guidelines at all times. The House is due to reopen on July 20th." 

More info, including opening hours here and on their Facebook Page.

Cliff House Hotel appoints new Executive Chef, Ian Doyle, and new House Restaurant Head Chef, Adam Kavanagh

Cliff House Hotel appoints new Executive Chef, Ian Doyle, and new House Restaurant Head Chef, Adam Kavanagh

On the beach: Ian Doyle

An exciting new phase in the continuing story of Cliff House Hotel has just begun, with the appointment of a new and dynamic young kitchen team at the helm of this elegant coastal retreat.

Newly appointed Executive Chef, Ian Doyle, and the new House Restaurant Head Chef, Adam Kavanagh, have been working away for the past few weeks, developing menus and exploring the local ingredients and producers of this beautiful food-rich part of the world.

Ian Doyle is already very familiar with Ardmore and the surrounding area, having studied professional cookery at Waterford Institute of Technology, and worked in neighbouring Dungarvan’s Tannery during his studies. He comes to Cliff House Hotel from a period of time working in prestigious, innovative and respected kitchens abroad, most recently four years as Head Chef at two-Michelin star Oaxen Krog in Stockholm. Prior to that he spent two years at world-renowned Noma (also two Michelin stars) as Chef de Partie, including travelling as part of the team for Noma Japan, the six-week Noma pop-up in Tokyo in 2015. Before leaving Ireland, Ian’s experience at home included at Mint in Ranelagh, in Gregan’s Castle, and as senior Sous Chef at Fade Street Social, running the tapas gastrobar.

Ian and new House Restaurant Head Chef, Adam Kavanagh, met when Dublin-born Adam completed a stage in Oaxen Krog in Stockholm, where Ian was Head Chef. Adam worked in Helsinki for three years with chef Sasu Laukkonen as Sous Chef at Chef & Sommelier. Adam’s other experience includes seasonal cooking worldwide and in Galway, including two as restaurant Head Chef in Il Vicolo.

Under Executive Chef Ian Doyle, work has commenced on transforming the dining experience at Cliff House Hotel. Ian Doyle describes their new menus as “very local, seasonal and simple, with no more than three or four ingredients on the plate — a celebration of Irish producers.”Ian and Adam will be looking to Ireland’s land, history and culture for inspiration.  At a later stage, there will be a phased refurbishment of the Michelin-starred House Restaurant at Cliff House Hotel to reflect the menus, using natural materials and contemporary styling to create a strong sense of place and connection with where it is set — directly overlooking the sea, in a spectacularly picturesque location.

Both chefs have a shared focus on sustainability and keeping everything as local as possible, supporting local producers, and capitalising on ingredients to be found wild through fermentation and preserving, elements that will carry through to the menus in House Restaurant.

A seasonal restaurant with a distinct focus on seafood, House Restaurant at Cliff House Hotel will be focusing on sustainability, showcasing exclusively Irish produce as much as possible, developing their coffee programme with a focus on local roasteries, making full use of their greenhouses and sourcing lobsters from the hotel’s seafront.

Adam Kavanagh

Ian is also redeveloping the food menu in Bar Restaurant at Cliff House Hotel with Bar’s Head Chef Iulian Todirica bringing a classic simplicity to the style of food served — think roast chicken with hand cut chips or whole roast turbot for sharing, dreamy Irish pub food, perfect for this part of the coast.

“We are so much looking forward to exciting times in dining at Cliff House Hotel,” says the hotel’s General Manager, Patrick Shields. “Ian and Adam bring an interesting dynamic and perspective to both the food and the service style, and we hope both our regular guests and new patrons will enjoy the fresh new look and feel of both House and Bar Restaurants soon.”

“Having spent many years abroad learning from some of the world’s best chefs,” says Ian Doyle, “I am happy to be home, and particularly at this fantastic property. There is an incredibly positive movement happening in food in Ireland, with incredibly talented Chefs throughout the country, and myself, Adam and the team at Cliff House Hotel are looking forward to being a part of it.”

www.cliffhousehotel.ie

Delightful. Insightful. Masterclass by Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi in Chianti Classico.

Masterclass by Giovanni Manetti at Fontodi in Chianti Classico. Delightful. Insightful. 

“A joy. A piece of my heart”.

Giovanni Manetti, who runs the family vineyard Fontodi (1968) in the heart of Chianti Classico, was answering the final question in Tuesday’s Liberty Wines online Masterclass. And, at this point, he wasn’t talking about his fabulous wines!

Someone, who had obviously visited the winery, had asked about the cows and Giovanni was delighted to talk about them: “Everyday it is my first stop… we had a new calf yesterday.”

How did a herd of cows end up at the bottom of one of the most famous vineyards in Chianti? “It was part of our tradition in the area. But, in the 70s, they disappeared, very quickly. But they remained in my mind and I brought them back in 2000.” He started with four and now has 65 “and growing!”.

Chianti Classico "hierarchy"

Fontodi is an organic vineyard and the cows were welcome. “We feed them with our hay and barley and they give fertility to the soil. The beautiful meat goes to the village butcher and to my large family. The cows give mountains of manure and we mix it with waste from the vineyard and winery to make compost, amazing compost.”

“They improve our land fertility and the biodiversity, millions of micro-organisms, all good for the complexity and flavours of our wines. Bio-diversity doesn’t leave room for enemies. All part of the bio-dynamics, playing a part in the system.”

Fontodi's Super Tuscan

Just before, he had answered a query on climate change in the area.

“Temperatures are getting higher every year. It rains less often but it is much heavier, dangerously so. Now everybody is growing grass between the rows as it can help avoid erosion and retain the water to help the wines. We also manage the canopy but different from the past when leaves were stripped off. Now we keep leaves to counter the extra heat. We are at work on climate change with two universities (Pisa and Florence) in the area.”

He was also asked about ageing in amphorae as against wood. The mention of amphorae was perhaps a surprise but not so much when you know that the family have been here since the 17th century when they set up a terracotta factory. Later, they made amphorae for wine and olives.

“It was in my background so we we started again producing the vessels in the factory. I’m very protective of it, just a few bottles in the cellar (not for sale) to taste and try all the time. Now using it for many different wines, Sauvignon Blanc and Trebbiano, and I like it very much, gives extra freshness. We have 50 and working on it.” And he told us there is a great demand for them from all over the world.

Chianti set up an association in 1924, the oldest in Italy. But during the Mussolini years the larger area was created, “a big mistake”, and the confusion between the Chianti Classico and Chianti in general continues. “They’re two different areas,” Giovanni emphasised, different soil, micro-climate, and so. “I'm always trying to clear this up. Only Classico bottles are allowed the Black Rooster on the neck.”

There is a commitment to quality among the 515 estates who produce about 36,000,000 bottles per annum. Of these, 354 are bottlers and that number “is growing every year, very encouraging. Producers are trying their best to improve quality and low yields are one sign. It is a good unique wine with a sense of place, an identity that cannot be replicated.”

There is also a commitment to sustainability and already some 40% are organic or biodynamic and that percentage is growing every year. “If you respect Mother Nature, less interference is needed, I’m very excited about this!” 

He is also proud that the main red grape here is Sangiovese, that it has seen off the challenge of the international grapes. “By rule, Chianti Classico must contain 80% Sangiovese but the trend is towards increasing that percentage, a very positive trend as it gives more sense of place. It is a very delicate grape but suits the terroir and it expresses it well.”

“Sangiovese has always been the biggest player but other indigenous grapes could be a good companion, better than the international varieties.”

He indicated that the others indigenous grapes (see chart) might “add extra freshness, a bit of complexity”. “It is necessary to do research into them as well as new clones of Sangiovese to face the problem of global warming. We are at work to face this problem.”

Always problems to be worked on it seems. So why not take time out to see how the cows are doing of a morning, “My beloved cows, at the bottom of the vineyard.”

* Giovanni Manetti has run the Fontodi property since 1980. The estate’s 90 hectares of vineyard are situated in the prime 'conca d'oro' (golden shell) of Panzano, a south-facing natural amphitheatre which allows the grapes to ripen fully. The altitude ensures cool nights, which in turn results in the retention of good acidity and lovely aromatics.  

Giovanni was elected president of the Consorzio Chianti Classico in 2018, a prestigious role that recognises his contribution to the winemaking of Chianti Classico. As president of the Consorzio he is working on identifying, recognising and highlighting the different expression of the various “comuni” that make up the Chianti Classico denomination.

Previous masterclasses in this current series:

Jane Eyre. Winemaker in Burgundy and Australia.

Nino Pieropan fondly remembered in son Andrea’s Masterclass

In the Swartland with Charles and Charl. The Spice Route and Fairview.

Chilean Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi
Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

Taste of the Week. Mini Quiche from On The Pigs Back

Taste of the Week
Mini Quiche from On The Pigs Back

Must say, our current Taste of the Week is a beauty: Chorizo, Sweet Potato, Tomato & Emmental Mini Quiche. Made by the folks at On the Pigs Back and delivered via the marvellous NeighbourFood system.The quiches, you get two for six euro, are absolutely exquisite. Make sure you get some. Use for lunch or as the base for dinner. Either way you're on a winner. Just because there's a crisis doesn't mean you miss out on the good things, not with the likes of On the Pigs Back and NeighbourFood on your team.

On the Pigs Back Mini Quiche
Douglas
Cork

Cheers. Latest Episode #3 . Keeping You Up To Date With Wine, Beers, and Spirits

Cheers. Latest Episode #3 . Keeping You Up To Date With Wine, Beers, and Spirits

One Place. One Farm. One Spirit. Latest from Waterford Distillery. 

Using 100% Irish barley, widely considered to be the world's finest, our new Single Farm Origin series is an uber-provenance range of limited edition natural whiskies that explore Irish terroir one farm, once place, at a time. They are expressions of precision and rarity, showcasing barley flavours derived from individual Irish farms and harvests.Read more

Can't go to the continent? Nothing to stop you going continental with food and wine. - says Lynne Coyle MW
Get ready for the bank holiday by ordering your wines now, why not rekindle fond European holiday memories of delicious food and wine with these wine suggestions from France, Spain and Italy.
Even with thoughts of a “staycation” looming large for most of us this summer, I am suggesting that we can still enjoy the fruits of our favourite wine regions at home with some of these delicious sun kissed options. Read more, recipes included!

Wine and food pairing: is it an overrated practice?

asks Spanish Wine Lover

Last Sunday I took part in a round table at the Wine & Culinary conference, an event organized by Bodegas Torres. According to President Miguel A. Torres, the aim of this conference is to support Catalan and Spanish cuisine, promote moderate wine consumption –preferably alongside food– and, incidentally, prove that despite being a large volume producer, their wines are not only intended for supermarkets but are also meant to be enjoyed in restaurants. More here

So-called wine experts are always confident of their opinions, no matter how divorced from reality they might be.

Nobody drinks buttery Chardonnay anymore. Wine pairing matters. The 100-point-scale rating is dead.

These are a few of the myths spread by the "wine intelligentsia" – the sommeliers, bloggers and writers who dominate our wine conversations.
None of these myths are true, but it's easy to believe something when everyone you talk to echoes it. Read more from this Wine-Searcher article here.

SuperValu Italian Wine Sale has returned - in store and online from 21^st of May until 10^th of June.

From the largest wine producing country in the world, come some of SuperValu’s best quality and value wines. The Italian wine sale beginning on Thursday May 21^st brings you some of the best wines from regions all across the much loved Mediterranean country.

Italy has always been a favourite holiday destination for Irish holidaymakers  with it’s unique culture,  rich cuisine and superb range and variety of wines.  Home to some of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world, Italy consistently cultivates our staple favourites, to be enjoyed with the fabulous range of Italian cuisine we know and love.

With prices of premium bottles not to be beaten on value, this year’s Italian Wine Sale is sure to bring the memories of Capri or taste of Tuscany to your lips. Italians believe you should enjoy a glass before eating, so perhaps this weekend take a moments break from the cooking to close your eyes and imagine the sun beating down on rolling scenic hills, and enjoy a glass of your favourite wine or venture towards an Italian wine you may not have tried before!

In sourcing the wines for this year’s Italian Wine Sale SuperValu wine buyer Kevin O’Callaghan is delighted to welcome back some favourites such as Ricossa Barolo and Costa Mediana Amarone. This year’s sale will comfort those familiar with Italian offerings and enchant those who are new to experience a taste of the world’s finest flavours.

 For the full list of wines available please visit www.supervalu.ie

Two French Pinot Noirs to Enjoy!

Two French Pinot Noirs to Enjoy!

Very Highly Recommended

Pinot Noir, the great red grape of Burgundy, has put down roots in many parts of the world. The World Atlas of Wine says “its perfect place on earth is Burgundy’s Côte D’Or”. Good examples too from New Zealand and Oregon and, closer to home in Germany (3rd largest grower of the grape in the world) and Alsace (now helped a bit by global warming). Our first example here is, surprisingly enough, from the Languedoc but from a high cool vineyard there.

While you mostly see Pinot Noir on its own in the bottle, it is a key part of Champagne where it blends so well with Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. And even here, it goes solo with Blancs de Noir, such as Krug's Clos d'Ambonnay and Bollinger's Vieilles Vignes Francaises.

No bubbles below through, just a couple of excellent still wines, much less expensive than the champagnes mentioned above. Enjoy!

La Boussole Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018, 12.5%, €14.45 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

La Boussole (compass)

Mid ruby is the colour of this Pinot from the south of France. Fresh aromas (wild strawberries). Light and lively, with a superb backbone of pure red fruit flavours, smooth and gentle, just the merest grip from the sleek tannins on the way to a fine finish. Highly Recommended and excellent value also.

Matches suggested by importers Le Caveau are mushroom risotto, lamb shank or even scallops in a mushroom and cream sauce. 

They also say the grapes for La Boussole Pinot Noir are grown on chalky marl soils in the Aude region near Limoux and are manually harvested. These cool vineyards in the Languedoc hills mean that you don’t get the highly ripened grapes and the subsequent high abv and big flavours you might expect. Enjoy. Not quite Burgundy but not a bad sub either, especially when you consider the price.

Like many of the light reds, it may be served slightly chilled, especially during the summer.

J-C Regnaudot Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) '17 13%, 

€23.00, 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Colour is a bright mid ruby. Pleasing red fruit aromas don’t really prepare you for the vibrant presence in the mouth, intense flavours of black cherries and red berries, juicy acidity also, deep, silky and elegant, well-balanced and a terrific example of why Didier Regnaudot was elected Hachette Guide Winemaker of the Year for 2018. This classic, made from old vines in the traditional way and using organic principles, is Very Highly Recommended.

Le Caveau: Ideal with white meats, chicken and charcuterie. I think it has enough character for steak and light game dishes.