Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary 

Day 1

Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber at Nua Vista 

Beautiful ware by Ross Kenmare

We had three days or so to check out the eating and drinking scene in the Kingdom. Well, more like in Killarney and Kenmare. It would take much more than three days to sample the full county!

Headed off from Cork for Kenmare on a good enough day. The "new" driver made excellent progress, aided no end by the completed Macroom by-pass. Soon, we turned onto the Kilgravan road and arrived in Kenmare.

Killarney Brewing and Distillery in Fossa.

First stop was the Nua Vista restaurant at the Ring of Kerry Golf Club near Templenoe. The restaurant, owned and managed by the Sheen Falls Hotel, enjoys a fine view over Kenmare Bay as does the golf club. But there were very few around. A shame because the food was excellent. 

The highlight was the Thornhill Confit Duck leg with Sweetcorn, Leeks, and Oyster Mushroom, perfectly cooked and presented. The Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber also fell into that category while the Calamari Rings with Garlic Aioli can also be recommended.

The Ring of Kerry Golf Club is on an elevated site overlooking Kenmare Bay.
Nua Vista is on the first floor - you can spot the outdoor dining area on the balcony.

My favourite salt!

Back in the few miles to Kenmare and heading for Killarney. Had almost passed Molls Gap when I realised that the Avoca shop there is one of the very few stockists of West of Dingle Sea Salt, one of the very best, in the Killarney area. Stocked up with that and our bag of other goodies also included Lady’s Kisses by the West Cork Biscuit Company, plus chocolate from Skelligs and a couple of jars by Janet (Wicklow), one with a Red Pepper Relish, the other with a Ploughman’s Relish.

Time for pause at a busy Torc Waterfall which didn’t disappoint before going out towards Fossa and a call to the impressive Killarney Brewing and Distilling Facility. Disappointment here though! I had been hoping to get a few bottles of their superb Casey Brothers Stout. But they don’t bottle it at all! I had the consolation of getting my hands on a large bottle (75cl) of their Export  Stout and a similar-sized bottle of the well-named Spailpín Fánach Saison along with regular bottles of most of their beers.

We made a quick visit to the Gap of Dunloe before heading back the road to our Aghadoe base, the Killeen House Hotel and Rozzers Restaurant. We settled in there for the evening and had an excellent dinner (including a couple of bottles of the Killarney Blond). More on that visit here.

Gap of Dunloe

Three Days in the Kingdom.  Food Diary

Day 2

Two Albarinos at the Stables.

Our second day started well with a splendid breakfast in Killeens House, highlights being their delightful Spiced Pears to start with and the “mains” of Hake with juicy cherry tomatoes.

Later that morning, we were off on that twisty road to Kenmare again, this time heading for the Sheen Falls Hotel and their new Stables Brasserie. A very impressive brasserie indeed and the food was excellent also. The lunch menu, not surprisingly, was fairly similar to that at Nua Vista. The Thornhill Confit Duck Leg was here also, this time with Savoy Cabbage, Lentils, and Smoked Bacon. Very enjoyable! 

The Stables Brasserie. Classy dining room and, below, the exterior

Quite a wine list included a non-alcoholic Albarino (7.00) by Spain’s Hollow Leg, which was enjoyed by the driver, not bad at all. The alcoholic Porto da Ria Albarino (9.50), with its crisp acidity, citrus fruits with hints of tropical fruits was lively and well-balanced and a long way ahead of its cousin.

After the short spin to see the actual Sheen Falls, we enjoyed a wee walk around the town. Shame to see the likes of Packie’s (latterly Anois) lying idle and also the Purple Heather, another once lively and well-loved venue, up for sale.

Urban Farm

Later on that evening, we enjoyed a very interesting tour of the Killarney Urban Farm, an initiative of the O’Donoghue Ring group, and then moved over to their Killarney Plaza to enjoy the produce from the farm and from their local producers. More on that enjoyable event, including the dinner in the Tan Yard here.  

   

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Day 3

An Síbín

The day started with a lovely late-ish breakfast at Killeen House and a very short trip up the road to the viewing facility for the spectacular lakes and mountains. It has its own car-park, alongside the Aghadoe Heights Hotel. It didn’t disappoint!

The Reeks, including Carrauntohill from the heights of Aghadoe.

Our next halt was at the National Park, the Muckross House area. Didn’t have that much time but we strolled over to the gardens to see an amazing display of tulips, the best I’ve seen this spring (sorry Blarney).

Tulips in gardens at Muckross House.

Lemon Meringue Pie
at An Síbín

Into Kenmare then and a shortish drive to Lauragh for a lunch stop at An Síbín, situated on the Beara Penisula at the foot of Healy Pass and about halfway between Kenmare and Castletownbere. They serve food all day in a very comfortable room (and outdoors when the sun shines) and also have a few rooms if you want to stay in the area.

It looks like a country pub, a well-maintained one, but there is no beer licence, just one for wine, though you can get a non-alcoholic beer. We fueled up for the return home with a hearty open Castletownbere Crab Sandwich and a large St Tola Goats Cheese Salad. Not to mention a large dessert as well! 

Next, and last, on our trip here was a drive to the top of the magnificent Healy Pass, between Lauragh and Adrigole. We were lucky that the weather was bright and settled and were able to fully enjoy the views.

The nearly two-hour journey back to Cork, via Glengarriffe, Keakil and Crookstown (mostly on the R585) went smoothly as did the whole experience in Kerry. We’ll be back.

Almost home!

Dingle Drive. Slea Head, Clogher Head, Ceann Sibeál. Sunny. Windy.

Heading for the great outdoors? Why not take this Dingle drive? 

Including Slea Head, Clogher Head, and Ceann Sibeál.

By all means, visit and linger at Slea Head. You may even take time out to climb the hill alongside and that will open out even more splendid views. Don't worry too much about the weather. It was very windy when we visited. Do wrap up well and don't do anything silly near the water.

After Slea, head for Clogher and climb to the top for a magnificent 360 degree view. It is not the easiest of walks but not that tough either. But good footwear is essential, as there are quite a lot of muddy patches and standing water around and you'll need all the support you can carry, including a walking stick.

Slea Head.

On Clogher, looking inland

Slea Head, from the roadway.

Sybil, from Clogher

The Three Sisters From Clogher.

Sybil, from Clogher

Heading towards the top of Clogher

Slea Head

Taken from Clogher

Looking inland from Clogher

The dead man or the sleeping giant. Inis Tuaisceart taken from Clogher. 

While shooting the waves at Slea Head last week, I happened to get this shot. The bird was walking quickly up and down the rocks near the wall of the road down to the sand. Not very well up on seabirds but, thanks to @RichardTMills, I now know it is a Ruddy Turnstone. The Turnstone is a highly migratory bird, travels the world, flying thousands of miles.

From Dingle to Kenmare in the Kingdom. Highlights galore on Kerry coastal drive.

From Dingle to Kenmare in the Kingdom.

Highlights galore on Kerry coastal drive.

The strand from high up on Clogher.

We got in of our favourite walks, Bray Head on Valentia Island. A brewery tour and terrific food at the Tom Crean Base Camp was another highlight. Lucky too in that we stayed at three lovely places, all helpful, especially Hannah at Muxnaw Lodge who drove us back into town for dinner when we asked for a taxi. The weather in Kenmare was wet but we had a magical night strolling around Dingle’s harbour after a massive feed at the Fish Box. And much more on a recent 3-night 4-day trip in Kerry.

Dingle boats

The drive down from Cork took us first to Tralee and a look at the impressive Tralee Bay Wetlands Eco & Activity Park. Lots of activity here for families, including pedal boats on the lake and a massive climbing wall for the adventurous. Had hoped to enjoy a lunch here but it wasn’t to be; all the café had to offer were over-sweetened waffles. Perhaps the menu will expand as the season goes on and as more visitors come. Our server did indicate that they hope to have sandwiches and salads (these already appear on the online menu).

Soon we were on the road to Dingle via the Conor Pass of course. Great views of Dingle from the parking area at the top and they get a little better if you climb up the hill alongside. A few minutes later we were in Dingle itself and heading for the coast. Both Ventry and Slea Head were packed so our first real stop was Clogher. Time for another walk to the top here and great 360 views that include the Blaskets and Sybil Head.

Fish Box on Green Street, Dingle

Craft Ale by Dick Mack

Enjoyed that interlude and we headed back to Dingle and to Bambury’s Guest-house, our base for the night. Enjoyed the welcome here and took it easy for a short spell before heading out looking for food. The Fish Box was our destination. It was first come first served. We didn't have to wait long for our table in one of their outside booths. Here they have some sixty covers. 

The owners, the Flannery family, have their own boat and the menu is mainly about fish. Quality is good but quantity is massive.  Ours,  The Fish Box and the Spice Box, came not on  plates but on trays. Quite a choice here but if you are going for one of the boxes you’d be advised to skip the starter. We didn’t! 

We saw pints coming in. The Fish Box is more or less next door to Dick Macks and you can enjoy the ale and the stout from the micro-brewery. And there’s also cider from Stonewell and a short wine list. After that, we strolled down to the water where the views and sounds of the sea and the many boats were enthralling. Great buzz there too with people hanging out, some going  canoeing and others returning from their boat trips.

Bray Head Walk

Glenbeigh mussels in the hotel

Next morning after a lovely breakfast from Bernie and her Bambury team, we were on the road again, this time heading for the Iveragh peninsula. First stop was the car park for Bray Head Walk at the southern end (Portmagee) of the island. There is a parking charge of two euro. We’ve had better days on this marvellous walk but even on a dull day it is enjoyable with views out towards the Skelligs, the cliffs and back towards Portmagee  and the bridge (on which my father worked) that links it to the island. I didn’t time it but I think the walk to the tower at the top and return takes something under 90 minutes, probably less if you’re under 70 and not taking so many photos!

Glenbeigh Hotel breakfast

Our base for the night was the old Glenbeigh Hotel with its own parking and large gardens. Though most of the meals are served in the old bar, a large one, they also have a beautifully decorated Garden Room where we enjoyed a really good breakfast. No surprise to us at that stage as the evening meal was quite splendid and featured some excellent fish dishes including their Seafood Mariniere for example, packed with fish (fresh salmon and white fish) and shellfish (mussels and prawns). There’s a very friendly and efficient team in place. The only downside was the hit and miss (mostly miss) WiFi.

We could see over the gardens to Rossbeigh beach from our window and we headed there after breakfast for a long walk. Back on the road then, heading for a stop at Waterville. Busy enough here with Micko Dwyer and Charlie Chaplin in their usual positions.

We had some early afternoon appointments in Kenmare so didn’t have as much time as usual to dally. The rain arrived in Kenmare at the same time as ourselves and kept getting worse until about seven in the evening by which time we had packed in a lot, including our visit to Tom Crean’s.

That started with a tour of the micro-brewery given by co-founder and brewer Bill Sheppard. Like his wife, Aileen Crean O’Brien (grand-daughter of the famous Antarctic explorer Tom), Bill is a get and go person. They now have a range of about eight beers and you can read all about them and the tour here. Bill's tour includes details on the beer and his method of brewing of course but he also details Tom Crean’s adventures there along with the tale of the trip that the family made to the region in 2016.

Breads in the morning at Muxnaw

 Aileen is the cook here, quite an accomplished one indeed. Watch out for her fish dishes. I reckon her Star Seafood Fish Pie is as good as you’ll get anywhere! And, of courses we had a few beers, including their lovely 6 Magpies Stout to go with the food.

After the tour, we had headed to nearby Muxnaw Lodge (WiFi didn’t function here either) in its lofty location overlooking the bridge. Here, we asked owner Hannah to phone a taxi for us to return for the meal. She wasn’t having any of it and drove us over herself! We really appreciated that very much indeed and the lovely breakfast the following morning.

Also on this trip: Tom Crean Base Camp Kenmare where you'll find a B&B, a micro-brewery and a restaurant. Eat, Drink and Sleep!

A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom

A Right Royal Progress Through The Kingdom

The view from Bray Head walk

With the best of lodgings booked, her majesty and myself headed off to the Kingdom of Kerry one sunny morning in July. The natives were friendly and we were well watered and fed in the triangle between Killarney, Valentia and Dingle.

After a superb lunch at the well-appointed and newly established Kingdom 1795 in Killorglin , we drove on south-west to the Island of Valentia. The plan was to take the spectacular walk on Bray Head. So we paid our two euro (no royal exceptions, apparently) in the car park and headed up.

On Valentia

Old Barracks, Cahersiveen

And up, and up. All the time, the views (including the Skelligs) kept improving as we, and quite a few others, took the path towards the top. We came back the same way we went up, didn't do the full loop. On the way down, just managed to stop a doctor (the fly) from biting my arm. Haven't see one of those in years.

Back on the road and next stop was the nearby town of Cahersiveen. Had a little walk around here, taking in the massive church of Daniel O’Connell (The Liberator), the impressively restored Old Barracks (must do a detailed visit next time) and the monks in a boat sculpture on the way out of town. No plaque on that sculpture and I’m not certain if it is to do with monks rowing out to the Skelligs or St Brendan and company heading to America. Anyone enlighten me?

Glenbeigh Hotel

By the time we reached Glenbeigh we were rather thirsty so called into the small Glenbeigh Hotel for a reviving drink in the dark and old-fashioned but popular bar.

Time was running out so we headed to base for the night. And what a base the Hotel Europe proved to be. Amazing space and comfort here. But we were soon on the road again, heading for a 7.00pm dinner in Malarkey’s the new stomping ground in Killarney of expert chef Seamus O'Connell (ex Ivory Tower).

Back to base, well back to the Europe’s exceptionally comfortable bar, its friendly staff and its drinks list as long as your arm. Thought I’d treat myself to a cocktail and the Brandy Alexander fitted the bill after the multi-course meal in Malarkey’s.

The hotel is huge, 180 rooms, and we saw many of the guests at breakfast in the amazing Panorama restaurant the following morning, panorama because it boasts great views of the beautiful lakes. Must be hard to cater for that many people. The Europe uses the buffet method to good effect. Good but, unlike the rest of the operation, hardly five-star.

Chocs in Crinkle Store, Dingle

Still, we were fed, and fit enough for the second leg of the progress. Off we went to Slea Head, a popular spot for us and for many many more. July may not be the best time to drive that narrow road, especially if you have Italy’s slowest driver in front of you! Thought they were all super fast. So much for stereotypes!

After that trip it was back to Dingle for lunch at the packed Boatyard on the waterfront. Not bad at all but I thought my crab claws were excessively expensive, almost 17 euro for six with a little salad, chorizo and garlic butter. A fairly basic dish by comparison with what I got in the excellent Pier 26 in Ballycotton a week before: at least 10 claws, superbly prepared and presented, for just €12.00. 

Slea Head

High Notes. Dingle

After a look at the weekly market - it was closing up at that stage - and  a little shopping around town, we headed back. We could see Inch Strand ahead, lots of activity there, so we stopped and enjoyed a good stroll, taking in all the activity on the water, on the sand, and even in the air (kite-flying). Amazing the amount of cars and vans and campers that were parked on the beach. But where else could they park?

No big rush to turn around quickly at the Europe this time. They have an fantastic display of flowering shrubs here, all the way on through the drive and then all around the various sections of the car park. Top class.

Inch Beach

Brandy cocktail Europe

Our dinner that evening was in Nick’s in Killorglin… I’m saying “nothing at all”. Back in the marvellous hotel, we had a wander through the fantastic lounge areas, areas (including the library) that are well used, before ending up with our friends in the bar. Drinks this time included a Negroni (I do rather like that cocktail), some local beers from Killarney Brewing Company and that non alcoholic cider by Cronin’s (another Kerry company).

All good things come to an end and the following morning we had to settle up but thanks to the children’s generous present (for our recent 50th) we didn’t have to dig too deep at all!

How about this? On the way back, we were in traffic on the bridge in Macroom - not as bad as it can be - when we saw a heron standing on the parapet, calmly watching the cars go by!

Also on this trip: Malarkey in Killarney
Kingdom 1795 Killorglin

Tasting Malarkey's at Rebel O'Connell's New Kingdom Base

Tasting Malarkey's at Rebel O'Connell's New Kingdom Base. 

Amazingly substantial 6th course of Tasting menu; amazingly delicious too!

It’s hot in the kitchen at Malarkey, the Killarney restaurant just opened by chef-patron Seamus O’Connell, best known for his years of good food, fun and frustration in Cork’s Ivory Tower. 

Pilsner from 9 White Deer

Service is in full swing. Probably just as well the restaurant, with its eye-catching decor both upstairs and downstairs, is not packed. The staff are extra busy though because they are also showing their new beer garden to the trade in Killarney and serving boxty and bubbles to their many guests.

After a superb meal, I take up an invite from one of the staff to have a look out back and am surprised at the overall size of the premises that Seamus has taken on and at how much work has already been done here.

Before I go, I get a chance to saw hello and have a brief word with the man himself. And he tells me that his biggest problem in these early months is the lack of staff, especially chefs. Seamus himself just has to work harder but there is no sign of the kitchen pressure on the plates. We have just enjoyed a superb 7-course Tasting Menu.

Choices are amazing here. Our Tasting Menu (Tasting Malarkey) is €50.00 each and he has a different Tasting Menu (Fusion De Luxe) priced at €70.00. There is a set menu (with lots of choice) for what seems good value at €30.00. And if you really want choice, just take a look at the A La Carte where you’ll have to allow extra time to make decisions; there are no less than 19 starters listed, including four of boxty.

Wild Salmon cured with Alder smoked salt in herbs

Wood pigeon, with beetroot

The finalé at Killarney's Malarkey. Toffee Apple crumble with smoked treacle ice-cream.

Nettle and Knotweed Soup (duck and orange centrepiece)

Crubeens with smoky onion poitín

Halibut with lobster sauce. And it is, but there’s some delicious bits of bacon and cabbage as well.