Showing posts with label Hegarty's Cheese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hegarty's Cheese. Show all posts

Friday, November 8, 2019

Ireland’s Top Cheesemakers and Producers Announced at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards

Ireland’s Top Cheesemakers and Producers Announced at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards
Complete list of winners below
Supreme Champions - Marion Roeleveld (left) and Sinead Egan of Killeen Farmhouse Cheese

A huge selection of Ireland’s farmhouse cheesemakers and producers gathered this evening (Thursday 7th November) at Cork’s Metropole Hotel, eager to learn who had struck gold – and silver and bronze – during the 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards. The list of worthy winners incorporated the finest cheesemakers currently operating in Ireland with 30 industry movers and shakers from all across the country walking away with a coveted award.

Hosted by MC and presenter of RTÉ’s Ear to the Ground Helen Carroll, the prestigious biennial event featured speeches from key CÁIS figures including Chairman Louis Grubb, Chairman of Bord Bia Dan MacSweeney and members of the trade, as well as one of the expert judges John McKenna. Guests were treated to a sumptuous 5-course meal prepared by the Metropole’s Head Chef Stuart Dardis during which 22 award winners – including the Public Vote Award, CÁIS Appreciation Award, Supreme Champion and gold medal winners – were announced. Thursday’s ceremony saw members of CÁIS; key supporters such as Bord Bia, Pallas Foods, Ornua, Horgan’s and Traditional Cheese; judges; cheesemakers; members of the public and trade representatives congregate in celebration of the abundant, diverse and exquisite range of Irish farmhouse cheeses produced on home soil.

The Munster region saw an abundance of gold medal winners, while silver and bronze medalists covered ground from Co. Wicklow to the Aran Islands, with many stops in between. Some of Ireland’s most well-known cheesemakers, such as Coolea Farmhouse Cheese, Durrus Cheese, Bandon Vale and Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese were awarded across multiple categories, as were the Tipperary-based Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers, Waterford-based Knockanore, Galway-based Killeen and Dozio’s of Mayo from the West of Ireland.

Guests at the gala event were particularly eager to hear the results of three of the biggest awards of the night. The first of these to be revealed was the winner of the Public Vote; a category that was introduced for the first time in 2019 and received more than 1,000 votes from members of the public. Macroom-based producer Coolea Farmhouse Cheese was announced as the clear winner, with the Willelm family delighted to accept the award. The CÁIS Appreciation Award was next to be announced and was presented to 2019 judge Dr Kieran Jordan by Chairman of CÁIS Louis Grubb. The final and most anticipated award-winner of the night – Supreme Champion – was announced as Marion Roeleveld for her 5-month matured Killeen Goats Cheese for the Simply Better at Dunnes Stores range, who received rapturous applause from attendees as they made their way to the stage.    
Congrats all round for Supreme Champion (centre front)

Since the previous awards ceremony, which took place in 2017, a range of new cheeses and cheesemakers were also introduced and commended on the night. The winners of the ‘New Cheese (available in last 2 years)’ category hailed from all corners of the country, with Dozio’s of Mayo’s Barr Rua Alpine Style cheese (gold medalist), Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese’s Allenwood Smoked (silver medalist) and Kilnalahan produced by Galway’s Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese (bronze medalist) all scooping awards. Cheesemakers new to the market since 2016 were also rightly showcased and welcomed into the fold, with the brains behind Bó Rua Farm Original Farmhouse Cheddar (Bó Rua Farm) and Sheep's Milk Halloumi (Ballyhubbock Farm) winning silver and bronze medals respectively, while Michael Finegan of Boyne Valley Bán (Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheeses) walked away with gold.

This year’s selection of judges included a number of well-known personalities such as Catherine Fulvio, TV chef, award-winning food writer, author and proprietor of Ballyknocken House & Cookery School; Ross Lewis, Michelin Starred Head Chef at Chapter One Restaurant in Dublin; and food writers/bloggers Patrick Hanlon and Russell Alford, collectively known as The Gastrogays. The elite judging panel also includes Patrick Clement, Head of Culinary at Pallas Foods; Dr Matthew O’Callaghan OBE, member of UK Protected Food Names Association and Artisan Cheese Fair organiser; Catherine Mead OBE, Chairperson of Specialist Cheesemakers Association (UK) and cheesemaker/owner at Lynher Dairies; Aoife Carrigy, freelance food writer and editor; Dr John McKenna, food writer; Enda Howley, Cheese Grading Expert with Ornua; Monica Murphy, cheese  and wine expert; Rory Mellis, Wholesale Director of Mellis Cheese LTD; Dr Kieran Jordan of Teagasc; Diarmuid Murphy, Simply Better Brand Manager for Dunnes Stores; and John Leverrier, Quality Manager of Sheridans Cheesemongers.


Commenting ahead of the awards ceremony, Padraig O’Farrell of CÁIS said: “The Irish Cheese Awards provide those involved in the industry with a wonderful platform to showcase their work and to transform their brands into household names within Ireland and beyond. The event itself also offers an opportunity for producers, both on a large and small scale, to network and build community links.”

Also speaking ahead of the event, Dan MacSweeney, Bord Bia’s Chairman, said: “While these awards recognise individual excellence, all 68 farmhouse cheesemakers can take an equal share of the credit for the outstanding contribution that the sector, valued at €12 million, has made to the Irish dairy industry, our culinary culture and to local communities.”

For more information on CÁIS and the Irish Cheese Awards 2019 and to view the full list of winners online, visit www.irishcheese.ie. For social media updates, follow CAISIreland on Facebook and @caisireland on Twitter or follow the conversation using #IrishCheeseAwards.

Complete List of 2019 Irish Cheese Awards Gold Medal Winners:
  • Class 1: Creamery mild cheddar up to 6 months – Aldi Irish Mild White Cheddar produced by Glanbia
  • Class 2: Creamery mature cheddar over 6 months – SuperValu Signature Taste Vintage Red Cheddar (counter product) produced by Newmarket Creamery
  • Class 3: Retailer Class (soft, semisoft, flavour added) – SuperValu Signature Tastes Gortnamona produced by Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 4: Retailer Class (hard cheese) – Dunnes Stores Simply Better 5-Month Matured Killeen Goats Cheese produced by Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 5: Soft/Fresh Cheese (all milks) – Bluebell Falls Cream Cheese produced by Bluebell Falls
  • Class 6: Goats Cheese under 2 months – Gurteen Baun Button produced by Galway Goat Farm
  • Class 7: Goats Cheese over 2 months – Killeen Goat Mature produced by Killeen Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 8: Sheep's Cheese – Shepherd's Store produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
  • Class 9: Bloomy Rind Cheese – NO GOLD WINNER
  • Class 10: Washed Rind Cheese – Gubbeen produced by Gubbeen Farmhouse Products
  • Class 11: Blue Cheese – Crozier Blue produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
  • Class 12: Semi hard cheese aged under 6 months – Dunmanus produced by Durrus Cheese
  • Class 13: Semi hard to hard cheese aged over 6 months – Coolea Mature produced by Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 14: Soft Cheese - Flavour Added – Zing with Apricot & Almond produced by Dozio's of Mayo
  • Class 15 - Hard Cheese - Flavour added – Coolea Mature Cumin produced by Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 16: Smoked Cheese – Knockanore Oakwood Smoked Cheddar produced by Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 17: New Cheese (last 2 years) – Barr Rua Alpine Style produced by Dozios of Mayo
  • Class 18: Best Raw Milk Cheese – Templegall produced by Hegarty Cheese
  • Class 19: New Cheesemaker since 2016 - Boyne Valley Bán produced by Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 20: Public Vote Winner – Coolea Farmhouse Cheese
  • CAIS Appreaciation Award – Dr Kieran Jordan, Teagasc (retired)  
  • Surpreme Champion – Marion Roeleveld, Killeen Farmhouse Cheese

     

    Complete List of 2019 Irish Cheese Awards Silver and Bronze Medal Winners:
  • Class 1: Creamery mild cheddar up to 6 months
    • Silver: Dunnes Stores My Family Favourites Irish Mild White Cheddar 500g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
    • Bronze: Tesco Mild Red Cheddar produced by Wexford Glanbia
  • Class 2: Creamery mature cheddar over 6 months
    • Silver: Tesco Extra Mature Irish White Cheddar produced by Carbery Foods Ltd.
    • Bronze: Dunnes Stores Single Batch Selection Grader's Choice Cheddar 200g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
  • Class 3: Retailer Class (soft, semisoft, flavour added)
    • Silver: Simply Better Ripe Cooleeney produced by Cooleeney Farmhouse Cheese / Traditional Cheese Company
    • Bronze: Simply Better Ardsallagh Goats Cheese produced by Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese / Traditional Cheese Company
  • Class 4: Retailer Class (hard cheese)
    • Silver: Dunnes Stores Gubbeen Cheese produced by Gubbeen Farmhouse
    • Bronze: Dunnes Stores Single Batch Selection Grader's Choice Cheddar 200g produced by Bandon Vale for Dunnes Stores
  • Class 5: Soft/Fresh Cheese (all milks)
    • Silver: Ardsallagh Soft Goat's Cheese produced by Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese
    • Bronze: Galway Goat Farm Fresh Goats Cheese produced by Galway Goat Farm
  • Class 6: Goats Cheese under 2 months
    • Silver: Aran Island Soft Pearls produced by Aran Islands Goat's Cheese
    • Bronze: Boyne Valley Bán produced by Boyne Valley Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 7: Goats Cheese over 2 months
    • Silver: Clonmore Goat's Cheese produced by Clonmore Cheese
    • Bronze: Aran Island Hard Goat's Cheese produced by Aran Islands Goat's Cheese
  • Class 8: Sheep's Cheese
    • Silver: Cais Na Tire Gouda produced by Cais Na Tire Cheese
    • Bronze: Cais na Tire produced by Cais Na Tire Cheese
  • Class 9: Bloomy Rind Cheese
    • Silver: Wicklow Baun produced by Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
    • NO BRONZE WINNER
  • Class 10: Washed Rind Cheese
    • Silver: Milleens Dote produced by Milleens Cheese Ltd.
    • Bronze: Durrus produced by Durrus Cheese
  • Class 11: Blue Cheese
    • Silver: Cashel Blue produced by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers
    • Bronze: Kerry Blue produced by Knockatee Natural Dairy
  • Class 12: Semi hard cheese aged under 6 months
    • Silver: Carrig Bru matured by Sheridan’s Cheesemongers
    • Bronze: Ella – Irish Furmagella produced by Dozio's of Mayo
  • Class 13: Semi hard to hard cheese aged over 6 months
    • Silver: Mount Leinster Clothbound produced by Coolattin Cheddar
    • Bronze: Mossfield Organic Mature Cheese produced by Mossfield Organic Farm
  • Class 14: Soft Cheese - Flavour Added
    • Silver: Bally Goats Cheese- Garlic & Thyme produced by Bally Goats Cheese
    • Bronze: Ardsallagh Cranberry Roulade produced by Ardsallagh
  • Class 15 - Hard Cheese - Flavour added
    • Silver: Castlefarm Fenugreek produced by Carlow Farmhouse Cheese for Castlefarm
    • Bronze: Killeen Goat Fenugreek produced by Killeen
  • Class 16: Smoked Cheese
    • Silver: Wicklow Gold Beechwood Smoked produced by Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
    • Bronze: Durrus Smoked produced by Durrus Cheese
  • Class 17: New Cheese (last 2 years)
    • Silver: Allenwood Smoked produced by Knockanore Farmhouse Cheese
    • Bronze: Kilnalahan produced by Kylemore Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 18: Best Raw Milk Cheese
    • Silver: Kilmichael Soft Goat's Cheese produced by Sunview Goats
    • Bronze: St. Tola Ash Log produced by Inagh Farmhouse Cheese
  • Class 19: New Cheesemaker since 2016
    • Silver: Bó Rua Farm Original Farmhouse Cheddar produced by Bó Rua Farm
    • Bronze: Sheep's Milk Halloumi produced by Ballyhubbock Farm
press release on behalf of CAIS


Monday, February 11, 2019

Barnabrow and Chef Bowes Rise to the Occasion. Again!


Barnabrow and Chef Bowes Rise to the Occasion. Again!
Skeaghanore Duck

The Gourmet Evening at Barnabrow House is becoming quite an occasion in East Cork and once again Geraldine Kidd’s charming venue and the skills of Chef Stuart Bowes combined to give us an evening to remember. 

Donie O’Brien of ENO had a selection of wines to be proud of and very enjoyable they were. And the occasion was further enhanced by music from the violin duo of Áine O’Halloran and Teresa Foley (known as Violini).

We began with a Cava and Canapé reception. As the glasses sparkled and the music played, there was time for a chat before entering the dining room proper. Quite a few of you will know this room as it is here they hold their well-known wedding meals. With its pointed gothic windows and high vaulted ceiling, it has a church like interior though the seating is more comfortable!

Cahermore Pork
More organic Cava at the table as the amazing Bouillabaisse was served. We had to do a bit ourselves as the Hegarty’s cheese came in little shreds on a side plate. Just added those to the soup and the magic happened as they complemented one another superbly, not to mention that rouille and the chefs top notch sourdough.

The Ballotine was just superb, again that match with the fig and the cinnamon spiced bread so really spot on. And the young slightly oaked Rioja was an easy drinking accompaniment. That high standard continued through the remaining courses. And again it was often the “little things” that enhanced the dish, like the Golden Raisin and Wild Garlic cream with the superb Duck Breast, even the tasty base on which the petit fours were served. 

Stuart Bowes had flagged that duck in his wee speech to the guests, proud to use produce such as Caherbeg and Skeaghanore, insisting on the importance of “local” and “using what’s on your doorstep”. “We are excited to do this, this quiet time of the year.”

Geraldine Kidd, now in her 23rd year here, is obviously proud of Stuart’s contribution over the past seven years and has battled to hold on to him against quite a few “poachers”! She was thrilled that word of these occasional gourmet evenings has spread beyond the Cork borders as she welcomed guests from Dublin and Clare.

Donie O’Brien and his ENO wines are regulars here and he was very proud of the organic Cava by Pares Balta that we started with. He loves Baron de Ley too, the producer of the Rioja. “They don’t buy in grapes, use all their own, a guarantee of quality”.
Turbot

I must say that the Pouilly Fumé was gorgeous. Richly flavoured with tropical fruit and with a “concentrated minerality”. This was followed by another beauty, the Ribera del Duero, another organic wine. “It is 100% Tempranillo, 8 months in new oak, vanilla..aromatic, clean and fresh and will be great with the duck!” And so it was.

Violini stayed with us for the evening. They are classically trained and stylistically versatile. “We play movie soundtracks, pop and rock songs, big band jazz, latin, blues, and the best loved Classical music.”  If you want music for events in hotels, manors, castles, concert halls, or for special occasions big and small, contact them out at violinicork.ie@gmail.com, also at 087 779 5031.

Dessert

The Menu and Wines
Bouillabaisse with Hegarty’s Cheddar, Rouille, Country Sourdough.
Cava Pares Balta organic

Ballotine of Caherbeg Free Range Ham Hock and chicken, fig, watercress, Pain D’Epices
Baron de Ley Club Privado Rioja 2016

Irish Atlantic Turbot, Pearl Barley, Gremolata, Pickled Ballyhoura Mushrooms, Chicken Essence
Chatelain Pouilly Fumé Abbaye St Laurent 2016

Roast Skeaghanore Duck Breast, Polenta, Savoy Parcel with Confit leg, Golden Raisins & Wild Garlic Cream
Camino Romano Ribera del Duero Pares Balta Organic

Iced Nougat Parfait, Apricots, Rhubarb, Archers
Chateau Caillou Sauternes 2007.

Maher’s Coffee, Barry’s Tea, Petit Fours.

Head Chef: Stuart Bowes, Sous Chef: Adrian Kaszynski.
Wines: Donie O’Brien ENO.

If you missed out on the Gourmet Evening, you can still try Stuart’s cooking and the marvellous produce (both from his producers and the Barnabrow walled garden) during Sunday lunch at Barnabrow. See the menu here
Sweet dreams
Morning walk

Sunday, December 30, 2018

Meet Ireland’s Great Producers. Just a few of them!


Meet Ireland’s Great Producers
Just a few of them!
Cheesemaker Jean-Baptiste at Hegarty's

2018 Highlights now completed.
See below for brilliant National Stud visit;
A Taste of West Cork;
Life galore in the Irish Pub;
Michelin Stars, a trio this year;
Clonakilty's outstanding street festival;
Variations on the Irish Breakfast

Always manage to visit a few producers and 2018 was no exception; well, there were some exceptional visits, one to the innovative duo at the relatively new Killahora Orchards, the other to the well-established Hegarty Cheese in Whitechurch .

We were with a group of members of the Munster Wine & Dine who spent a very enjoyable May evening on a tour and tasting at Killahora Orchards near Glounthaune. Barry was our enthusiastic guide as we got both our whistles and our feet (aside from those who had brought wellies) wet in a most delightful way. 

Some of us had already marked Killahora products, including Johnny Fall Down cider, the Pom 'O Apple Port and their unique Rare Apple ice wine, among our favourite things. Those who hadn't come across them before were converted on this tour and tasting. More here

I met Jean-Baptise Enjelvin, cheesemaker at Hegarty’s, a few times during the year before heading out to see him at work in Whitechurch on an October morning.When I arrive at Hegarty’s farm on the outskirts of Whitechurch, less than twenty minutes north of Cork City, I’m greeted by Dan Hegarty, the frontman for their magnificent cheddar cheese that has been snapped up by restaurants and retail customers alike over the past 16 years or so. 
Killahora Orchards

For the past three years, Dan has had the considerable help of French cheese-maker Jean-Baptiste who had been on duty from earlier that morning.  He helps me get my kit on and I start to note how he makes their Templegall, a Comté style cheese, which has been getting sensational reviews over the past few months. 

I try my best to stay out of his way as the work progresses from the milk to the tank to the wheel on the stand. Amazing combination of skill, knowledge and muscle and then a lot of patience (a year or so of it) before the cheese is ready. It is a high quality product so do watch out for it! More here

* If you are food or drink producer and would like me to do a post in 2019, do drop me a line at cork.billy@gmail.com
* A producer for every week; see the list of Great Irish Tastes 2018

National Stud/Japanese Gardens
One of Ireland’s Stand-out Visits
2018 Highlights continued...
Guide Aoife has a back-pocket treat for Hardy Eustace.  And he knows it!

Last June, we “did” a loop around the Midlands, taking in Mikey Ryan’s in Cashel, Birr Castle, a tour of Tullamore DEW, and a stay at the impressive Heritage Hotel in Killenard but the undoubted highlight was our visit, on the one ticket, to the Japanese Gardens and the National Stud.

The Japanese Gardens are small but perfect. Now over a hundred years old, it is still very much worth visiting. Some 120,000 visitors soak up the peace ad beauty here every year. They were devised by Colonel Walker and were laid out by Japanese master horticulturist Tassa Eida and his son Minoru between 1906 and 1910. Walker named one of his classic winning horses after Minoru.

Before, or after, visiting the stud, you can refuel in the Japanese Garden Café. Here, Ballymaloe-trained Natalie Collins and her manager Ronan Mackey take pride in offering simple, wholesome food with the emphasis on freshness and flavour. Local ingredients are used wherever possible. The restaurant is open 7 days.

By the way, the grounds of the National Stud rival the gardens for beauty. But it is the characters here that I’m inclined to remember, especially Hardy Eustace! Described in his highly successful racing career as a hell of a horse and a tenacious battler, the now twenty year old is described as a big baby by Aoife, our fantastic guide, as she feeds him polo mints and those “missing” sugar cubes. 

Indeed, we all help out, keeping our fingers straight as we make our offerings to the famous gelding. Also keep it relatively quiet, just in case the jealous Hurricane Fly, who shares the field, might hear. 
Aoife was brilliant, our guide of the year, and later she took us to see the stallions, the guys that pay her wages! You may read an account of the visit here
John Coll's Famine Funeral at Coming Home

Other excellent “visits” this year included Nano Nagle Place (Cork City) , Youghal’s Historic Clock Gate Tower  and the amazing Ewe Experience  in Glengarriff.


Best art experience of the year was Coming Home: Art and the Great Hunger  in Skibbereen.

A Rib around Bantry Bay
Just one of 250 events at A Taste of West Cork
2018 Highlights continued...

Ten days, 41 towns and villages, 8 islands, over 250 events. I’m talking about Ireland’s biggest and probably best food festival: A Taste of West Cork.

Impressive numbers indeed. But statistics only hint at the September story unfolding across the bays, the mountains, the hills and dales of the region. We dabbled a bit this year, as we regularly do and one of the highlights was the Indian Night in Richy’s of Clonakilty, another restaurant in the top echelon of this Michelin starred food-scape.

But the most fun that we had came down in Bantry, on a rib run by Diarmuid Murphy of the Fish Kitchen. The rib run and a fish dinner that evening were one of the official events for the festival. We weren’t quite sure why to expect when we booked - even thinking at one point that we’d have to fish for our dinner!

And, then as the clouds rolled in and the wind increased, we still weren’t sure as Diarmuid introduced us to his rib on the new marina in the bay. We put the gear on and soon we were bouncing out there on the bay. Exhilarating stuff even if our experienced skipper (we took just the one splash) decided against taking on the waves at either end of Whiddy Island and a trip across to see the liner in Glengarriff had to be abandoned.

But all the while he was filling us in - we two were his only passengers - on the geography and the amazing history of the bay: Wolfe Tone, the American flying boats on WW1 duty, the Eagle Pointers, Bantry House, the blue cliff, the Whiddy disaster and so much more including, of course, the mussel farming in the huge bay. He is a superb guide to the area and no wonder he is thinking of running this as a tourist attraction in the summer of 2019. Keep an eye out for that! Once I have details, I’ll post them here on the blog.


About two hours later, we were back on dry land. Time then for a rest and a shower before heading to the Fish Kitchen in the heart of Bantry for a delicious meal, enjoyed with a communal table that, by pure chance, included Esther and Joe Barron from the famous bakery in Cappoquin. A great afternoon trip and a terrific evening.

Life Galore in the Irish Pub
2018 Highlights continued...
Hot in the city. Galway in July.

We visited Galway in the high heat of the amazing summer, met some lovely people and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly everywhere we went and that included a visit to Michelin starred Aniar, strolls in the narrow streets, a cooling (not really!) cruise on the Corrib and on the huge lake (biggest in the Republic) but the memory that stands out was our visit to a pub!

We’ve been in some  memorable pubs in recent times, Dick Mack’s (with its micro brewery) in Dingle,  Reidy’s with its uncountable corners and crannies in Killarney, the Swagman and its amazing host Dale in Sligo, and a few more but the King’s Head in Galway is out on its own.

Well worth a call. And there is a bistro here that serves excellent local food - enter through a small archway off the city’s Latin Quarter. Chef Brendan Keane is a keen local and seasonal operator and hopefully Sorcha will be on duty to fill you in on the menu and the specials.

Afterwards, find your way to the adjoining pub and get a seat, by the stage if you want to get close up to the music or maybe by the bar. Our second night was by the bar, excellent choice of drinks here including local craft beers. 
Cocktail time!

And they have an impressive cocktail list here and put on quite a show as they get them ready. In the meantime, you’ll find yourself chatting to customers from all over the place. It won’t be a quiet chat - the music will be loud and lively, just like the street outside. Life con brio.

Another memorable pub was found just a few miles north-east of Cork city. O’Mahony’s of Watergrasshill operates only at weekends but do get there for the food and the fun if you are anywhere close. 


Máire and Victor (you’ll know him from the House Café at the Opera House) have given this two hundred year old pub a new lease of life, the emphasis very much on local food and drink. Old cow sheds have been converted into use - there is a stage in one - as venues for concerts and weddings. New soul in the old stones and well worth a visit for its lovely food and lovely people.

Michelin Stars in a Row.
More to follow!
Daikon, bamboo shoot (Ichigo ichi

Michelin stars are like the No. 8 bus (sorry, it’s 208 now, ask Billy Murphy of the Young Offenders); you wait, and wait, and then three come together. Just three? There are a few more waiting in the wings.

The anointed threesome in Cork (Ichigo Ichie, The Mews, and Chestnut) are now well-known but I’ve been flirting with a few others. Reckon Pilgrims should be up there with a bib at least while Bastion should be up a notch from the bib. Missed out on Dillon's but on the list for 2019! Enjoyed myself in both of them in 2018 and the highlight was the meal in Ichigo Ichi - before it got the star.
Pollock, pine, at Aniar


Outside of Cork, Aniar (star) and Aldridge Lodge (bib) were also visited this year. By the way, if you’re lucky enough to dine and get one of the three rooms to overnight in Aldridge, consider yourself doubly lucky as breakfast here is also a star treat!


Festivals: Amazing Street Fest in Clon!
2018 Highlights

Food and food related festivals continue to pop up all over the country. Relatively new ones, such as FEAST in East Cork, are thriving, along with well established events such as A Taste of West Cork. The Old Butter Road Festival, mainly in North Cork, enjoyed a good year. Didn’t get to too many outside of Cork this year but had a quick and appetising day trip to Harvest Festival (to a Blaa event) in Waterford city.

There was quite an excellent Cheese festival too at the Cork Airport Hotel, a great cheese dinner on one night and some new cheeses on display in the many stalls on the following days. And the regular long-table was again a huge hit on Cork’s South Mall with over 400 diners.


For me though, the festival where food and fun totally and seamlessly combined was the Clonakilty Street Carnival. Long tables galore here on the main street, even one for the kids. Much more for the young folks too with games and music. Music too on various platforms for the attendees in general. And very impressive numbers with over 2,000 adults fed, by the town’s leading restaurants, for fifteen euro a head!


Variations on the Irish Breakfast
2018 Highlights
Plaice Plus at Aldridge Lodge

In the queue at Nash 19 the other day (coffee and scone for me), I was drooling at the elements of the Full Irish inside the counter. I already had had breakfast but those rashers and sausages etc certainly looked very good indeed. Another excellent one, that I fully enjoyed, was served in mid-summer at De Barra Lodge near Rosscarbery

Rarely go out for breakfast so it’s mostly in hotels and B&Bs that I sample the traditional Full Irish. Sometimes, I ask for the cut-down version: “one of everything”. 

And sometimes I ask for the fish, if there is one. 

Increasingly, there is a fish option. The very best (usually plaice, served simply) is to be found in the Garryvoe Hotel or its cousin across the bay, the Bayview. Superb stuff, especially if you’d had a hard night.

Last month, I had the good luck to dine and stay in Aldridge House on the beautiful Hook Peninsula in County Wexford. I will soon be publishing a full post on the dinner and the stay. I had an inkling that the breakfast would be good.

And when owner-chef Billy Whitty told me plaice was on the menu, I jumped at it. They have a Michelin bib here and Billy improved on the simple plaice, turning it into a marine version of the Full Irish.

Very hard to beat his magnificent plate of fresh and delicious plaice that came with a poached egg (choice of hen or duck), tomatoes and a Portobello mushroom. All that after a terrific starter of a yogurt pot with hazelnuts and raspberry. 

Pancakes are also very popular around the country at breakfast time and I’ve enjoyed a few in recent months, the best hotel offering probably that at the lovely Lyrath Estate in Kilkenny. 

The very best though came closer to home, in the spring, at the Crawford Gallery Café where they served up American style buttermilk pancakes, with delicious bacon, yogurt, blueberries and bananas and Maple syrup of course. Amazing flavours and textures. Simply irresistible! 
Pancakes at the Crawford Gallery Café
No bacon at another excellent Cork venue, the terrific Good Day Deli. But, early in the year, they had excellent Poached Pear Pancakes with coconut mascarpone and a drizzle of Irish honey. A morning winner from this sustainable foods champion. Another non-meat venue is the Candied Hazelnut in Waterford and here I enjoyed their Blueberry Pancake Stack with Maple Syrup.

Will the plaice or the pancakes displace the Full Irish? Maybe not on their own but there are other factors at play here and you can expect to see even more variety on the Irish breakfast plate.

* Have you a great breakfast offering? Email: cork.billy@gmail.com