Gentil. An engaging Alsace tradition since the 1920s

Gentil. An engaging Alsace tradition since the 1920s

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AC) 2021, 12.5% ABV 

RRP €20.95. Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

Gentil is an Alsace tradition, made from all the white grape varieties of the estate. It is not hit-and-miss. You are not allowed to throw just any old grape in.  It is done carefully, to a very high and controlled official standard. And it is also usually very well priced. Félix Meyer has built a solid reputation in Alsace and other Gentils worth looking out for (and available in Ireland) are Hugel and Trimbach.

The Felix-Mayer winery is very happy with this 2021 assemblage of Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. And so am I. This particular  Gentil is on my list every year, such is its high quality and consistency.

It is very aromatic, with honey hints, and draws you in. And so it continues in the mouth. Subtle notes of apricot and apple and again that slightly honeyed fruit sweetness engage your senses. A little spicy too, with a lingering finish.

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The winery promotes it as a dry and well-structured wine for enjoyment in all kinds of contexts, ranging from an aperitif to wine with a meal and friends. Amazingly versatile: “the most wonderful aperitif and can be paired with lots of Umami focused dishes, like Sushi or it lends itself to sweet and aromatic spices, from North African to Indian/Pakistani and South East Asian.”

A gem at the price and Very Highly Recommended.

The practice of producing Gentil goes back to the 1920s. This is regarded as his “entry-level wine”, leaving one very keen indeed to try the full range, right up to a highly rated Cremant, from this organic producer. Le Caveau carries quite a few, starting with this and including the Cremant D’Alsace and the top wine his Alsace Grand Cru Riesling.

See our post on his marvellous Riesling 2019 here.

A Riesling of “great purity, ethereal and dry, a gastronomic grand vin” from Meyer-Fonné

 A Riesling of “great purity, ethereal and dry, a gastronomic grand vin” from Meyer-Fonné

Meyer-Fonné Riesling Katzenthal Alsace (AC) 2019, 13% ABV 

€29.95 Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

From the granitic slopes surrounding the village of Katzenthal comes this very distinguished and racy wine. The immense potential of these granitic soils of Katzenthal is realised time and again by Meyer-Fonné.

The colour of this 2019 Riesling is a beautiful gold with tints of green. Minerality and lime feature in the flavours on the complex yet easily accessible palate while the aromatics throw citrus notes, a floral flicker and the more or less usual hint of diesel. It may be “usual” but the diesel here is not a disturbing sensation as some examples can be and soon fades into the background. Rich and ample for sure with peach joining the lime as the wine, with a balancing acidity, heads towards a long and rewarding finish.

Very Highly Recommended.

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Meyer-Fonné is fast becoming one of our favourite winemakers; in the past, we have also Very Highly Recommended his Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes (twice), his Meyer-Fonné Gentil thrice (going for four with another one in the queue), and his Crémant d’Alsace (AOC) Brut Extra.

The maestro is rather proud of this one: “Originating from the granitic slopes of Katzenthal, this very distinguished, concentrated long finish wine carries the emblem of its terroir magnificently. Its mineral and floral character, great purity, ethereal and dry, make it a gastronomic grand vin. Ideal with all kinds of fish.”

The man himself, Félix Meyer, has come in for high praise.

"Félix Meyer is one of the more ambitious and successful young vignerons of Alsace.” Wine Advocate.

“ ... Félix Meyer still has humility, still has a sense of wonder, and is still capable of self-criticism. He is a seeker and a perfectionist. He is a terroirist, and when he speaks of a granitic soil, the wine in your glass tastes of it.”
Kermit Lynch, US importer.

La Cuvée Du Chat Is A Super Beaujolais. "Top notch Beaujolais at its most gluggable"

 La Cuvée Du Chat

 Is A Super Beaujolais

JC Chanudet La Cuvée Du Chat, Vin Du France, 2020, 12%, 

€28.95 Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

"Top notch Beaujolais at its most gluggable"

There is a perceived wisdom that it is good idea to rub a furry animal a day, that owning a pet reduces your risk of heart disease. You may not be able to get your hands on a cat or a dog that quickly - you may not want to -  but this gorgeous wine with its smooth silky mouthfeel could well have an even better outcome for you!

Baudelaire’s cat, the one in the poem, may well have had  “un dangereux parfum” but, while nasally and orally tempting, Chanudet’s La Cuvée du Chat has nothing of menace about it at all. Jean-Claude and Marie Lapierre are highly regarded in organic and natural wine circles (if not necessarily in the wine administration circles) and this bottle shows exactly why.

One word you don’t see on the label is Beaujolais even though this 100% Gamay comes mainly from a cru area. Vin de France indeed! Some table wine for 29 euro, this super Beaujolais.

Colour is the typical light ruby. Pleasant, even modest, aromas of cherry and raspberry. But, like the cat of the poem, it does have something of a sexy backbone. Life in the old cat yet, the fruit harvested from vines of 80 years of age.

Superb soft and deep flavours, nice acidity too and a persistent finish. Eminently digestible, easy drinking, full of palatable pleasure and Very Highly Recommended. 

Sediment noted by the way, so might be worthwhile decanting as young wines often are. As it turned out, the sediment was practically negligible.

The label illustration by Maurice Sinet (died 2016, aged 87) always brings a smile. He was better known as Siné and was a columnist for Charlie Hebdo. 

The beautiful Gamay grapes from these venerable vines are handpicked in October, after which carbonic maceration with natural yeasts occurs in an enamel tank with some pumping over to stimulate activity. The wine is then moved to foudres to rest on lees before finally being bottled with minimal SO2.

Importers Le Caveau continue: After all of that effort we end up with a super supple and velvety wine on the palate with juicy fresh red berry, cherry and blackberry dancing on the tongue. Top-notch Beaujolais at it's most gluggable.

And why no Beaujolais on the label. Because the winemaker Chanudet, like his late father-in-law, has never bothered to obtain “biologique” certification, even though he operates his vineyard organically. He has said that it is not up to the organic winemakers to write “Organic wine” on their labels, but rather to the others to indicate “Chemically-produced wine.”

A Champion Morgon By Chamonard. Opening "always a precious moment"

Champion Morgon By Chamonard

Chamonard Morgon Le Clos de la Lys (AC) 2017, 13%, 

€27.95 Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork 

Domaine Chamonard is a small winery located in the heart of Beaujolais. It produces organic and natural wines from the vineyards it cultivates in Villié-Morgon. I first came across this one at the Le Caveau Portfolio tasting in early 2020. If I had to pick one from the lot that day,  this would have been it!

It comes in the expected pale colour. Aromas are both floral and fruity (raspberry, plum) and a little earthy. It ambushes you on the palate, so rich and intense, the flavours of one of the most fruity of wines and the characteristic acidity going toe to toe and a pleasing balance emerges and the velvety wine heads to a refreshing and lasting finish.

Enjoyed it three years ago and happy to have it now. No dinner this evening (had a big lunch earlier) but the Chamonard is going down well with a simple (lazy!) supper of cheddar and sourdough (from Vinilo of Lismore).

Wine Folly says Gamay is often compared with Pinot Noir (they are related!). “Gamay wines are loved for their delicate floral aromas, subtle earthy notes, and surprising ability to pair with food (even fish!). The best part is, you can find high quality Gamay at a much better price than Pinot Noir.” In the book, they underline its versatility at the table with suggested pairings from “sweet and sour salmon to beef stroganoff or even sesame tempeh”.

Very Highly Recommended.

The Gamay grape, outlawed by Royal decree in 1395  for being “a very bad and disloyal plant”, is now one of the most respected, at least when grown in the Beaujolais region. Morgan is one of ten cru areas here and one of the better known ones. The full list is Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Régnié, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Juliénas, Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent.

Importers Le Caveau are big fans of Chamonard: “Opening a bottle of Morgon from Domaine Chamonard is always a precious moment…. From 4 hectares of vines averaging 60 years old, mainly from the best parcels ……..the grapes are hand-harvested in late - October to maximize ripeness and in order to make an intensive selection of only the best fruit. The results of all of this effort is in the bottle, you just need to pull the cork to see for yourself.”

Dolcetto. The little dark one that’s not so sweet after all! But this Piedmont example is very enjoyable nonetheless.

Dolcetto. The little dark one that’s not so sweet after all!

But this Piedmont example is very enjoyable nonetheless

Valli Unite Diogene da uve Dolcetto Costa Vescovato Colli Tortonesi (DOC) 2013, 14%

€19.95 Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

The co-operative, Società Coop Agricola Valli Unite to give it its full title, was established over thirty years ago, at a time when most young people left the land to seek work in the large cities of northern Italy. Farmers in general in Italy were regarded quite lowly as winemaker Elena Pantaleoni of La Stoppa (in Piedmont as it happens) told me a few years ago over a lovely lunch in Skibbereen’s Good Things Cafe; she was speaking of a family member who had to depart to make his living in France. 

The coop was started by three young men from local farming families who were deeply attached to their land and traditional practices, who had a belief in organic farming and biodiversity as the way of the future and were committed to a way of life and farming that would be sustainable over the long term. This all happened in the locality of Costa Vescovato in Piedmont.

The coop that they started now numbers four families and 25 people, each bringing their own strengths and talents: from vine-growing and wine-making; to cheesemaking; to animal husbandry and butchery; to a hospitality and a restaurant and a shop selling their own produce.

Pic via Le Caveau

Dark ruby is the colour of this Dolcetto (a very dark grape indeed). Cherry, blueberry and floral notes mix it up in the aromatics. And it is pretty punchy on the palate, fresh, fruity, spicy and above all balanced. And this pleasant and vibrant wine, with an insistent grip, finishes well with a pleasurable bittersweet twist.

An uninhibited juicy wine that will have your lips smacking and Very Highly Recommended.

Versatile at the table especially with the commune’s products (they have their own animals, make their own cheese here), excellent with various mixed appetisers and with Primi Piatti based on homemade pasta. Wine Folly lauds it as one of Italy’s classic food wines “that’s best with richer darker meats”. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees.

The Italian word dolcetto means "little sweet one", but it is not certain that the name originally carried any reference to the grape’s sugar levels which are not notably high. In any case, the wines produced are nearly always dry. Even Oz Clark in Grapes and Wines admits he hasn’t found a Dolcetto wine that deserves the “little sweet one” tag.

Two Highly Recommended Wines for you, a Barbera from Italy and a Vermentino from Languedoc-Roussillon.

Two Highly Recommended Wines for you, a Barbera from Italy and a Vermentino from Languedoc-Roussillon.

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Valle Unite Montale Barbera Colli Tortonesi (DO) 2013, 14% 

RRP & stockists: €23.95, Le Caveau Kilkenny, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

While Nebbiolo may be the star (think Barolo!),  Barbera  is the popular everyday red wine grape in Piedmont; those wines from Asti and Alba are probably the best-known of the varietal. With high acidity and alcohol, low tannin and sweetness, Barbera is approachable and affordable. This particular Barbera has the advantage of being organic. 

Colour is a mid ruby, somewhat lighter around the edge. This may be of the 2013 vintage but the nose is fresh and complex, its ripe cherries hinting at youth rather than age. And that complexity is striking on the palate as is the typical acidity. Smooth and well balanced right to the end, some grip still there though as it lingers long. Dry in the end and very satisfactory indeed.

Pasta, veal, pork, and game are the regularly suggested pairings. Wine Folly say roasted and vegetable-driven dishes while Wine-Searcher goes for Seared rabbit livers, Thai duck noodle soup, and Roasted, herb-crusted lamb rack. I think the lamb would be my first port of call!

They also produce an excellent white. Recent review here.

Highly Recommended.

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Domaine Bassac Le Vermentino du Grand Mur Nos Parcelles Côtes de Thongue 2021, 14% ABV 

A wine new to Mary Pawle list, expect to pay €20 to 21. Contact: Mary Pawle Wines 

Vermentino is mostly a grape of the Mediterranean coast, grown mostly in Italy (all over the country but most notably in Sardinia and Tuscany) and France (widely in the Languedoc-Roussillon and also in Provence). Expect citrus (lemon, lime), apples and a lively acidity. Best drunk when young.

Our wine here, part of which has been barrel fermented, comes from Languedoc-Roussillon, from the Côtes de Thongue. The vineyard is situated at Puisalicon, a small medieval village in the heart of the Languedoc not too far from Beziers, a town that rugby fans will be familiar with. Domaine Bassac is a family estate of several generations standing and much of its wine is exported. Pioneers in organic farming, current operators François Delhon (family member) and Jean-Philippe Léca have been doing it organically since 1987.

The colour is quite a light straw, shimmering bright in the glass. Light fruity and herbal notes in the aromatics. Good firm fruit flavours follow, citrus mostly with hints of tropical, and also the expected (but certainly not over the top) acidity that ensures balance.

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This dry and fruity wine should pair well with pasta, vegetarian dishes, poultry, lean fish, and also as an aperitif. 

Highly Recommended

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The Valle Unite Co-Op in Piedmont produces this delicious white wine.

The Valle Unite Co-Op in Piedmont produces 

this delicious white wine.  

(Le Caveau Spring Portfolio tastings, details below)

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Ottavio Rube Vino Blanco 2020, 12% ABV.

RRP €16.95, Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenmail Wines, Bradleys Cork

Costa Vescovata is a town in Piedmont and the Valle Unite is the winery. Our white is named after Ottavio Rubé, one of the founders of the co-op. It is excellent entry level natural white wine, vegan, vegetarian, and organic.

Ottavio Rubé Bianco, unfiltered and unfined, is a blend of Cortese (the grape of Gavi) and Timorasso (an indigenous white grape). The Cortese is listed in the varieties for the area in Wine Folly but not the Timorasso. That is not surprising as Italy has some 500 plus native varieties of which about 175 feature in regular everyday wines.

Aromatics in the Ottavio Rube white are an inviting mix of light fruit with floral and herbal notes. It has quite a vibrancy on the palate. Dry and medium bodied, it is a delicious wine; hard to beat the summing up by Le Caveau: a thirst-quenching mix of summer flowers, yellow plums and wild herbs held together by racy minerals.

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The co-operative was born over thirty years ago, at a time when most young people left the land to seek work in the large cities of northern Italy. It was started by three young men from local farming families who were deeply attached to their land and traditional practices, who had a belief in organic farming and biodiversity as the way of the future and were committed to a way of life and farming that would be sustainable over the long term. 

The coop that they started now includes four families and 25 people, each bringing their own strengths and talents: from vine-growing and wine-making; to cheesemaking; to animal husbandry and butchery; to a hospitality and a restaurant and shop selling their own produce.

Food pairings (for this white) suggested are poultry, cheese, rich seafood dishes, raw shellfish.

Highly Recommended.

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Le Caveau Spring Portfolio tastings

(Trade and press only)

Dublin, Tuesday March 7th 10.30am to 5.30pm

Smock Alley Theatre, 6-7 Exchange Street Lower, Temple Bar, Dublin 8, D08 EH67

Cork, Thursday March 9th 10.30am to 5.30pm

Centre for Executive Education, (Cork Savings Bank Building), 1 Lapps Quay, Cork T12VF82

This Cinsault, a red star of the Eastern Pyrenees, will put a grin on your face!

This Cinsault, a red star of the Eastern Pyrenees, will put a grin on your face!

Foulards Rouges, Le Fond de l'Air est Rouge* - Vin de France 2021, 12% ABV

€23,50. Stockists: 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Cinsault is one of my favourite grapes even though many critics are inclined to run it down saying it is “a minor blending grape” and “lacks the prestige of..such as Syrah or Mourvèdre”. 

I have been impressed by some excellent examples of the variety from the Itata valley of Chile, one involving the famous Pedro Parra, the  Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” (blend, mostly Cinsault), and another by Aurelio Montes, the Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault. 

Itata shows prominently in Wine-Searcher’s search stats for the variety but the most sought after are those from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Yes, while most of the worlds’s Cinsault plantings are in France, the grape has found a welcome and suitable home in countries such as Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia.

This wine has a mid-ruby colour. Bright, red berry fruits head the aromas and also lead on the palate. It is soft and deep, notes of raspberry and cherry, sweet spice also. Quite complex too all the way through to the refreshing finish. Highly Recommended.

In the south of France, the traditional and somewhat famous food pairing for a fine and light Cinsault wine such as this is with Escargot, garlic butter and a French baguette. Importers Le Caveau say it's a perfect summer red to serve quite cool with grilled foods, charcuterie and mild cheeses. Wine-Searcher suggest pork and chicken, char-grilled vegetables and even Thai or Vietnamese cuisines while Wine Folly say well spiced vegetarian Indian fare.

The terroir is Les Albères in the Pyrenées-Orientales, 10km from the picturesque seaside village of Collioure (that those who have holidayed in the area will know) where the maritime influence brings the freshness that enables the wines to reach phenolic maturity without excessive alcohol. ..They say they “work.. according to the goodwill of the moon. The harvest is carried out in joy and good humour with small boxes of 13 kg to preserve the intact bunches. ..vinification is natural, i.e. without input if possible (indigenous yeast, no sulfur, filtration or fining)… Bottling is done manually and by gravity (no pump)…Purity is the watchword here; the first thing you notice is the freshness of the wines, and, dare one say, some pretty juicy fruit.”

Local beach Argeles-sur-Mer

When Jean-François Nicq and a childhood friend Bijan Mohamadi (math teacher at the Faculty of Montpellier), bought the estate in the Eastern Pyrenees, they baptised it "domain of red scarves", a memory of their militant past.. All peaceful here now, though the bottle comes with a notice: “Attention danger and there will not (enough) be for everyone! Arm yourself!”

* The wine name, Le Fond de l'Air est Rouge, translates as The Bottom of the Air is Red. Puzzling! But then I read that in 1977 a French political film had the same title, the red hinting perhaps that there was socialism in the air. The English title for the same film was A Grin Without A Cat! Did that cat have a red scarf?