Turkish Delight In Baltimore Last Saturday. Chef Ahmet conducts a symphony for the senses in Baba’De

Turkish Delight In Baltimore Last Saturday

Chef Ahmet conducts a symphony for the senses in Baba’De

Squid Eriste

At Baltimore's Baba’De last Saturday, presentation was mesmerising, particularly with our opening dishes, the spring rolls and the Squid Eriste and the following plates didn't disappoint either. Of course, while the presentation can dazzle and puzzle, it is what behind it that counts and here every single note was precise, all coming together in a virtuoso performance by the chef and his team.  

Spring Rolls

For us a serendipitous discovery. But this symphony of looks, textures and flavours owes nothing to accident, rather it's the results of years of learning by Chef Ahmet, his insistence from day one on finding the best local produce along with his judicious use of sauces and spices (used more to enhance the flavours than add heat) from his native Turkey. I suppose the serendipity comes in the fact that he did end up here in Baltimore.

West Cork beef köfte 

So what is Baba’De? It is the second restaurant in Baltimore with Chef Dede at the helm, with Maria Archer leading out-front. Dede at The Custom House is just a few steps up the street and already displays two Michelin stars. Baba is still in its infancy but the prodigy has already been recognised with a Michelin bib.

Baba'de-style fried chicken 

And indeed the menu follows Michelin lines, even the shortened one at lunchtime that we enjoyed. There are no starters as such, though you may enjoy Soup (Turkish red lentil - - garlic buffalo yogurt, sourdough, almond & garlic - on our visit) and/or Ali’s Hummus (fresh chickpeas & tomato casserole, paprika & cumin, sourdough).

Baba'de-style fried chicken 

Here you  are invited to pick what you like to begin and then order again and again. There’s quite a wine list here, local drinks too including craft beers, and cocktails of course. As we were driving back to the city immediately afterwards we picked a couple of non alcoholic favourites, the Stonewell Cider and the Fierce Mild beer; neither disappointed.

We started with a couple of dishes from the Sea section including those spectacular Langoustine spring rolls, with basil, sesame seeds, and chilli. A delight for the eye and the taste buds. Next up was the Squid Eriste (pasta served with oregano & red pepper velouté almond), another eye-catching and very satisfying dish. Eriste, by the way, is a type of Turkish pasta. Both dishes were shared, and that was the plan, until dessert!

Another look at the menu for round two and we ordered a couple of dishes from the Pasture section. First up was the Baba'de-style fried chicken (fried buttermilk chicken thigh, spice mix & brown butter dip). Might sound a bit prosaic but once again it was poetry on a plate from the kitchen. And that same standard continued with the amazing West Cork beef köfte with aromatic rice, barbecue beef, pickles, tomato and yoghurt sauce.

Time for dessert

And then to dessert where the sharing arrangement broke down, We were in agreement though that, of the two on offer, it just had to be Annemin sütlaçi (dede's mother's warm rice pudding, brown butter ice cream, hazelnut). We each had one and it turned out to be a great decision. I enjoyed every little grain though I had to promise that I would try and compare it with CL’s version featuring Blackcurrant jam (plenty of it) and a shake of nutmeg - looking forward to that!

We had had our stroll out to the Beacon earlier and, having been well fed and thoughtfully served by the excellent staff at Baba’de, we walked down to the pier and carpark, said au revoir to Baltimore, and were soon on our way home, reminiscing every now and then on that gorgeous meal.

Ferries for Sherkin and Cape Clear

The Beacon, about 30 minutes walk from village.
Five by car.

What we ate: 

Langoustine spring rolls €18

Squid Eriste €15

West Cork beef köfte €16

Baba'de-style fried chicken €13

Annemin sütlaçi €13

More on Baba'De here

Monk's Lane focuses on the best of local in Timoleague

 Monk's Lane focuses on the best of local in Timoleague

Cashel Blue Salad

Like the reverend brothers of Timoleague’s ancient abbey, the focus in the Monk’s Lane kitchen in the village is on local produce. Everything from Union Hall fish to locally grown Alouette potatoes. 

You see that confirmed throughout the menu. Kinsale Gin (blacks Bliss) and Clonakilty Whiskey (The Godfather) are noted in the short list of Deoch Failte (local lingo for a welcome drink). O’Neill’s Blackpudding, Union Hall, Cashel Blue and Macroom Mozzarella are all mentioned in the starters, while you’ll note Caherbeg and Rosscarbery in the mains. Local breweries are also supported.

Hake, and those Alouette potatoes!

And it seems that the locals appreciate it and, in turn, support the venue. Local of course, won’t cut it on its own. The expertise in the kitchen and the service out front also come into the equation, and the Monk’s team is well up to speed in these sectors.

On a previous visit, I noted that owners and founders Michelle O’Mahony and Gavin Moore have created a dining experience that goes beyond just food. It's a celebration of community, warmth, and the simple joy of good company and good food. And that also appeals to visitors, so much so that you are strongly advised to make a reservation here, whether your party is small or large, whether early or late.

After a warm welcome last Friday, we sat back at our flower-bedecked table and studied the menu. From that earlier visit, I remembered the O'Neill's black pudding pie, sherry-soaked raisins, cabbage slaw, aioli and was again tempted, especially by those amazing sherry-soaked raisins. 

But this time I was swayed by the promise in the Cashel blue cheese, spiced nectarine and candied pecan salad, a promise that was delightfully delivered, one of the very best salads, not just the cheese and the fruit but also the superb leaves, and the dressing and that spice of course. Very Highly Recommended.

Drinks had been sorted earlier. Monk’s Lane has quite a list, but I was concentrating on the non-alcoholic offering this time and was glad to see the Fierce Mild ales on the list. I first came across these at the May Food and Drink Festival in Ballymaloe. It is an alcohol-free extra pale ale that’s intense in flavour (the fierce side) yet mellow enough for any occasion (the mild side). 

Many Irish non alcoholic beers are not great, but this continues to impress, even though my category favourite here is Wicklow Wolf. I tried a Carlsberg 0.0 over the weekend. I’m saying nothing, the polite thing to do when you have nothing good to say.

The produce here may be local, but the kitchen regularly mixes in foreign techniques and spices. On a previous visit, I was more than well pleased by their slow-cooked Spanish-style lamb. It was a revelation, a rich stew packed with tender lamb.

I was thinking that the current offering of slow-cooked African-style lamb, with crispy potatoes, mint, and flaked almonds, would be pretty close, even if I didn’t know which African style applied, as lamb is popular all across the continent and not just in the Mediterranean countries. 

The tender lamb, already diced into bite-sized cubes, was, of course, the star of the dish, basically a stew, and I was glad that they provided a spoon to ensure that neither a drop nor a morsel went to waste! Packed with flavour and aromatic spices, it is another Very Highly Recommended dish.

And a big thumbs up from across the candlelit table where CL was tucking into the Hake in a parmesan herb crust, dill cream sauce, and local Alouette potatoes. The Parmesan and herb crust added a crispy layer to the perfectly cooked fish, mounted on a generous serving of those tasty potatoes. That thumbs up would have been even more emphatic had there been a helping of veg! 

Alouette potatoes? You may well ask. I asked Google and saw that variety is very popular with Irish growers and professional users. It is regarded as a second early variety. It has an eye-catching red skin and creamy yellow flesh. It is easy to cultivate. Rapid early foliage growth helps keep weeds down, and it is blight-resistant. 

The farmer or the gardener ends up with high-quality produce for less hassle. The variety is also much loved in the kitchen where it can be roasted, baked, steamed, boiled or chipped.