A Quart of Ale± #129. On the craft journey with Sullivan's, O'Brien Wines, Lineman, Blacks, Bradleys, Brewmaster, Aldi.

A Quart of Ale± #129

On the craft journey with Sullivan's, O'Brien Wines, Lineman, Blacks, Bradleys, Brewmaster, Aldi.

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Sullivan’s Maltings Irish Ale, 5%, 500ml bottle O’Brien Wines

Deauville, a long-time magnet for Europe’s rich and famous, was all abuzz for the horse racing in August 1918, even though the Great War was still being waged. 

One Irishman had set his sights on an aristocratic French fillé. He had opposition from a Venetian count. Sullivan, a gambler rather than a brewer, bet the family brewery on a horse to impress the Frenchwoman. He lost and, not fancying a duel with the count, had to settle his debts.

In Kilkenny, as a result of the wager, the Sullivan brewery (established 1702, eight years before Smithwick’s) was taken over by their rivals (“in a kind of a white knight rescue”) and the Sullivan name vanished from the enterprise. Another hundred years on and, in 2014, Diageo moved the production of Smithwick's to Dublin.

But the Sullivan story has been revived over the past few years or so with the emergence of a new Sullivan brewery, backed by the two intertwined families, the Sullivans and, yes, the Smithwicks, both keen to keep Kilkenny’s brewing tradition going. 

Colour of this award-winning red ale is quite a dark one, boasting an off-white head that has some staying power. The aroma hints of a balance between malt fruit and hop bitterness and that continues on the body before the excellent ale finishes dry. Quite a satisfactory bottle indeed and the drinker can see why this easy-drinking smooth ale is an award winner.

They say: Traditionally brewed with only Kilkenny-grown ale malt, including three special darker malts and three varieties of hop. Fermented and matured with cask ale yeast and coupled with our no-rush brewing produces a smooth balanced classic ale. .. the result is a classic ruby ale with deep malt combining rich biscuit and gentle caramel notes.

The beer we craft today is inspired by traditional Kilkenny recipes and brewed the way the family has always brewed – the way real Irish beer should be brewed – by local experts, by hand, in small batches, with enormous heart and the finest locally sourced ingredients.

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Lineman Group Therapy Session IPA, 4.6%, 440 ml can Bradleys

All southern hemisphere hopped session IPA with Galaxy, Motueka and Topaz. That’s the word from Lineman about this session IPA. Motueka comes from a small town on the South Island of New Zealand while the other two come from Australia.

Colour of the ale is a murky lemon with a head that doesn’t stay around too long.  The aromatics are on the meek side, just a hint of tropical notes peeping through. Quite a nice balance on the palate, light and zesty, tropical, citrus, a touch of pine all in the mix. Lineman regularly get it spot-on and this is another fine example from the brewery.

Lineman? “We’re often asked about our name; we’re called LINEMAN as a tribute to my late father who worked as a lineman for both the ESB and P&T in the 1940s and ‘50s. He stayed with the P&T (that eventually became Telecom Éireann and later Eircom) until he retired in 1996. There’s a nice lineage there as that same year Mark got his first job with Eircom until he left to start work on setting up LINEMAN in 2018.

The reason for the name LINEMAN runs a little deeper than that alone though. It’s also a tribute to the hard working heroes who worked in all kinds of conditions to bring about connection in the young Irish state, through electricity and telecommunications, taking Ireland out of the dark and into the modern state we know today." More here. 

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Blacks Pineapple & El Dorada IPA, 5.0% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

The perfect fruity mix-up combining fantastic El Dorado hops with fresh Pineapple flavours for the ultimate summer IPA.

That’s the intro to this IPA from Blacks of Kinsale. It has a colour close to a mid-amber with a thin white head that doesn’t hang about. 

It is described as a summer IPA so I’m a little late coming to the party. Also a little apprehensive as I’m not a great lover of overly fruity beers. But I’m relaxing as the first sip flows across, enjoying the pineapple and the hoppy balance provided by El Dorado. Dry finish as well, quite bitter.

May be slightly out of season but it is a thumbs up for this one, a west coast IPA where the hops and the pineapple (one of the listed ingredients) get it together in a deep layered pineapple flavour that reminds me somewhat of the the brilliant Polly that I tasted in Limerick’s Crew last year. Summer may be gone but you can always turn up the heating (but not for lon€).

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Brewmaster Sailor Sam’s Hazy IPA, 5.5%, 440ml can Aldi

Brewmaster (Dundalk Bay Brewery Co) are the producers of this IPA, exclusively for Aldi, and they recently rushed to announce that it won a bronze award in the Irish Food and Drinks Quality Awards for 2022.

Sam’s IPA is certainly hazy, under a slow-sinking soft white head over a Mango Lassi coloured body. Mango takes charge on the palate but methinks it needs a bit more to move into gold medal contention.

Good yarn on the label though, where they disclose that dry-hopping was used. Sam brewed at sea, experimenting as he sailed. It was a serious hobby! And he loved to add as many hops as possible to make the beer last..at sea.

Brewmaster is the exclusive beer brand of Dundalk Bay Brewery and Distillery (their spirits are sold under the Ravenrock brand). “All our Irish Premium Craft Beers are brewed in a sustainable way using naturally sourced ingredients. Each alcoholic and non-alcoholic beer has its distinct flavour ensuring there’s one to satisfy every palette!”

A Quart of Ale± #128. On the craft journey with Farringtons, Bradleys, DOT, ALDI, Roadworks and Outer Place

A Quart of Ale± #128

On the craft journey with Farringtons, Bradleys, DOT, ALDI, Roadworks and Outer Place

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A couple of good session beers here.

Farringtons Clever Plucker Session NEIPA, 4.5% ABV, 440ml can Bradleys

Trading for 200 years, Farringtons Mill has sold many varieties of beer over the counter and now they are very proud to be brewing on site. Based on their organic farm in Co.Kildare, the brewery sits alongside Farringtons Mill Pub & Restaurant.

This Clever Plucker New England IPA has a mid-orange colour with a soft white head. Both the aromas and flavours tend towards the tropical, passion-fruit and mango, along with citrus of course. Nothing too extreme in the flavours though and the bitterness is also mid-range (perhaps a little higher) so this could well be a popular beer. It is certainly very drinkable, ideal for a session.

The Farrington Beers, and it is a relatively new venture for them, “include some of the popular craft beer palate as well as appealing to the regular beer lover who wants something refreshing. Not everything needs to be high in alcohol and we are enjoying experimenting with beers that you can drink without worrying how you will feel the next day….Farringtons Brewery is all about fresh, crisp wholesome brew that can be shared amongst friends and family.”

DOT Brew Spin Off Series Session IPA, 3.2% ABV, 440ml can Aldi

Lovely soft head atop a gold hazy body. Exotic fruit prominent in the aromatics. Pretty tropical too on the palate, a delightful mixed bag of orange, passionfruit, peach, citrus, mango, apricot too and all present. Mouthfeel is soft and the bitterness levels are low making it pleasant and easy-drinking, just what many prefer for a session.

Geek Bits

Ingredients: malted barley / pale wheat / flaked & malted oats New England style yeast. 

Hops are Centennial (US) and Galaxy (Australia) round drinking. Exclusive to Aldi.

Roadworks Early Start Non-Alcoholic IPA, 0.5%,  500ml bottle Aldi

Amber to dark gold is the colour of this non-alcoholic beer from Roadworks called Early Start. Lots of bubbles make up the white head and no shortage of replacements as herds of them rush to the top. Aside from a touch of malt, the aromas are on the shy side. And it is the pleasant contribution from the malt that gives the palate its flavour.

This 0.5% non alcoholic option is the first in the Roadworks range and is best served chilled. Water, Malted 𝐁𝐚𝐫𝐥𝐞𝐲, Rolled 𝐎𝐚𝐭𝐬, Malted 𝐎𝐚𝐭𝐬, Hops and Yeast are the ingredients. It is brewed by the Pearse Lyons Brewery Dundalk, Co. Louth. Exclusively for Aldi who promote it as having a food-friendly finish.

An Examiner tasting (of quite a few non-alcoholic beers) concluded that it was great value and a good barbecue beer. Maybe so but, for me, the search for a really good Irish beer in the n/a segment continues.

Outer Place Perpetual Dawn IPA, 6% ABV, 440ml can Bradleys

Perpetual Dawn IPA is a new IPA from a relatively new brewery.

And it is not a clear dawn. It is quite hazy with a small-bubbled white top and a mid-orange colour. Aromas hint of mango, citrus and pine. The beer is smooth on the palate but it is here that the more exotic flavours, including mango, exert an undue influence, edging away from my preferences. 

No bother in acknowledging that it’s not the worst strip of Mango-land I’ve been in and that many drinkers will be be quite happy in this over-saturated space. Different strokes for different folks and thanks to the craft beer movement for giving us the choices.

Citra, Simcoe and Cascade are the hops here; ingredients also include oats, and it is juicy and moderately bitter.

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A Quart of Ale± #113. Going for a Paddle on a Rough Wave to The Other Side. Lough Gill at Aldi

 A Quart of Ale± #113

On the craft journey with Lough Gill at Aldi

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Going for a Paddle on a Rough Wave to The Other Side.

In the local Aldi recently and I picked up three beers: Going for a Paddle, Rough Wave and On The Other Side. The info on the can label is sparse to say the least but all three are by Lough Gill Brewery in Sligo.

On the same shelf, there were beers (in the Brown Bear and Roadworks series) by the Pearse Lyons Brewery and O’Shea’s by Carlow Brewing Company. Oddly enough, these Aldi beers aren’t even mentioned on the Lough Gill and Carlow websites.

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Lough Gill Rough Wave New England Session IPA 3.8%, 440ml can Aldi (Mayfield)

Started my session on the water (sorry beer!) with this session New England IPA. It pours an opaque lemon colour with a bubbly white head that sinks quickly enough. Hops come through on the citrusy aromas. Citrus too on the flavours, not really bitter, not overly assertive, just modest. Modest refreshment also. Pleasant enough to drink and should pass the session test, though maybe not the New England one. Well ahead of the mainstream though and probably a good starter for a craft newbie.

Lough Gill On The Other Side East Coast IPA 4.6%, 440ml can Aldi (Mayfield)

Colour of this IPA is closer to orange than lemon, still hazy (opaque again) with a pillowy white top that is slow enough to sink. Aromas more tropical than citrus. Flavours of orange and mango get through, slightly more bitter, dry rather than juicy. Fairly refreshing and easy-drinking. Nice one for a hour or two in the back garden if that feckin’ sun ever shows up again this summer.

Lough Gill Paddle Citra Single Hop IPA 4.7%, 440ml can Aldi (Mayfield)

Orange is the colour, a little cloudy, nowhere near as hazy as the others. Head goes quickly enough. Aromas are, as you would expect, citrusy, nothing overly assertive. Citrus too on the palate and the bitterness factor is higher. Doesn’t quite reach the heights but not bad at all. Would be fine with a decent sandwich or a bag (sorry carton, nowadays) of fish and chips, sitting on a low wall on a hot summer’s night. Could be easier though to get your your hands on the beer than the hot summer’s night.

The Citra characteristics - Citrus, Mango, Melon - are here. If you want a more advanced example or even a comparison, try the Citra Single Hop by Eight Degrees (5.7ABV). Seeing that Aldi’s prices are about half what you’d pay for regular craft beer, this Lough Gill trio, which all have relatively low ABVs, would all serve well as a stepping stone on the craft trail.

* The three labels list the same ingredients: Malted Barley, Oats, Hops, Yeast, Lough Gill Water.

Bubbles for your Valentine. Some sparkling suggestions!

Bubbles for your Valentine. 

Some sparkling suggestions!

The two best known sparkling wines are Champagne and Prosecco and they are, of course, included below. But so too are less well-known options such as Cava, Crémant, and Pet Nat.

Pet Nat-Bubbles without the hefty price tag

Pet Nat? Well, Pet Nat is an abbreviation for pétillant naturel, the French term that roughly means naturally sparkling.

Is it then a copy of champagne? Not so. It is the other way around if anything, as Pét-Nat has been around longer. Pét-Nat is bottled while still undergoing its first round of fermentation. The French call this process “methode ancestral” and you may see that on some labels.

You may see “bottle fermented,” or the Italian “col fondo,” (more or less a  pét-nat Prosecco). The crown cap and a little bit of harmless sediment are other clues!

The method, with variations, is pretty widespread across the wine world. Most are fun and good with food, especially lighter dishes. Simple, authentic and quite diverse, Pét-Nat puts the bubbles on your dinner table or even picnic spread. It sparkles without the hefty price tag.

Entre Vinyes Oníric Pét-Nat 2020, 11.5%

Catalonia’s Parc Natural Del Foix is the source of this pétillant from Mary Pawle wines..

Oníric in Catalan translates as dreamer and Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra), the aim being to rescue old forgotten vineyards and restore a balanced ecosystem. This 60-year vineyard, surrounded by a rich biodiversity, is in the Baix Penedes region (in Catalonia) close to the Med. The grapes for the pét-nat are Xarel-lo (mostly) and Muscat.

Colour is a cloudy yellow/lemon. On pouring, you create a large white “head” but it won’t hang about. This is easy drinking, approachable and refreshing, with good depth and length. And of course, it has that pleasant sparkly tingle. White fruit flavours and just enough acidity to balance make it harmonious all the way to the lip-smacking finish. A wine for sun and fun. Highly Recommended.

Champagne and Champagne Charlie

Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Blancs NV Champagne (AOC)

Pale gold is the colour of this Blanc de Blancs by Charles Heidsieck, imported by Liberty Wines. Unceasing fountains of pin-head bubbles race towards the top of the glass. Amazing concentration straight away, yet is is elegant on the palate, lovely balance and weight, engaging with a lively acidity also with mineral notes and a creamy mouthfeel. It is one hundred per cent Chardonnay and has notes of lemon, apple and pear plus orchard blossom and the typical Champagne toastiness. Very Highly Recommended.

Charles Heidsieck, one of the most admired Champagne houses, was founded in 1851, by the man who would become known as ‘Champagne Charlie’. Their size, and commitment to excellence, has been underpinned by a winemaking team that between them have been named 'Sparkling Winemaker of the Year' at the International Wine Challenge on over a dozen occasions.

Champagne Fleury B d N Brut Champagne NV, 12%, Mary Pawle Wines

This Blanc de Noirs is made from 100% Pinot Noir and is indeed a white wine from dark-skinned grapes. The Fleury family have been here in Champagne since 1895. They raise their vines, biodynamically since 1989, on the Côtes des Bar in the southern extreme of Champagne. Indeed, they are pioneers of organic in the area.

Back to the wine itself and bubbles proliferate here, racing to the top in non stop streams. It has a deep yellow colour, intense flavours and aromas, including the typical ‘biscuity” notes. The wine has terrific depth from initial sip to the lingering finalé. Dry and delicious. Unusually intense, impeccably crafted, this is Very Highly Recommended and well worth seeking out!

Beaumont des Crayères Vintage 2013 Fleur Blanche Blanc de Blancs Brut at O’Briens Wine.  

Intense, biscuity is the strong first impression as the liquid meets the palate. Intense and exciting from the engaging first sip, with fountains of micro-bubbles powering upwards, with biscuity aromas and flavours and floral notes too, this is one of the better ones for sure. It is made from 100% Chardonnay and obviously 2013 was a very good year. Very Highly Recommended

O’Briens, the importers, are also enthusiastic: This is one of the most exciting, elegant Champagnes that we have ever tasted. Made from Chardonnay grapes, the pinhead bubbles have an acrobatic exuberance in the glass. A perfect apéritif wine but the richness on the palate would also lend it well to food.”

English Sparkling and the other French bubbles

English sparkling wines are quite popular these days and some of the best are being made by Limerickman Dermot Sugrue (above). You will find them under Sugrue South Downs and Wiston Estate in the Le Caveau portfolio here.  

While online there, why not check out their range of Pet Nats.  

Crémant is the term used to classify French sparkling wines produced, using the Méthode Traditionelle, outside the boundaries of the Champagne region. The method, also known (within Champagne) as méthode champenoise, involves disgorgement and a second fermentation in the bottle and you can read more here. 

Exquisite Collection Cremant du Jura (AOP) Chardonnay, Aldi

Left it late? Pop into Aldi and get this excellent Brut (dry). 

I was very impressed with it. A sparkling Chardonnay, made using close to the same methods they use in making champagne, was perfect for my unexpected little celebration. It is not lacking in complexity, has light fruit flavours, a hint of biscuit (that you find in champagnes), and a fine finish. Good price too..

There are quite a few Crémants in France and many are excellent. Other Crémants come from Alsace, Burgundy, Limoux, Loire, Savoie, Bordeaux, Die (Rhone), and Limoux.

Saint Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux (AOP)  brut (Languedoc-Roussillon, France), 12.5% 

Did you now that champagne is not the oldest sparkling wine produced in France? That honour is claimed by Blanquette de Limoux which is also produced by the Methode Traditionnelle where it is naturally fermented in the bottle. It was first created by the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Saint Hilaire over 450 years ago. Written records survive from 1531. The abbey is 25 miles south of Carcassonne.

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CAVA

There’s some terrific Cava, the Spanish sparkling wine, out there also, so why not give the Iberian bubbles a try. Cava is a distinctive under-rated sparkling wine, made using the same method as Champagne.

Entre Vinyes Funàmbul Brut Nature Reserva 2017,  11.5%, 

€23.50 approx. Manning’s, Ballylickey; Mary Pawle

Fresh and dry, this elegant Cava is one for your shortlist; elegant yes, but full of energy and flavour (apricot and apple) and with amazing balance, all with a mineral note lingering on to the end. The mousse is creamy and smooth. This is pleasure to drink and Very Highly Recommended. Three grape varieties,  Xarel·lo, Macabeu and Parellada varieties, are in the blend. The wine has been aged for 24 months..

With an average age of 60 years, these vineyards are in the natural environment of Foix, surrounded by oak and pine forest, under a dry climate and on a porous soil (which swallows the water) and limestone, very poor and shallow, with hardly any organic matter. The great biodiversity present creates a unique ecosystem that naturally regulates the balance of the vineyard. Here, working in an artisanal way, they produce some terrific wines including this Cava.

 

If you haven’t tried Cava before why not head over to your local Supervalu and get a bottle of their Gran Troya. With its citrus flavours and a delightful finish, the pale gold Gran Troya is a terrific celebratory drink at an affordable price. Great for just sharing with himself or herself. If you haven’t tried Cava before, this is a good introduction. The grapes used are the traditional Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Try with olives, grilled almonds. Serve at 6-8 degrees.

Prosecco (and Franciacorta)

Prosecco in Colour!

Bubbles are usually associated with the all kinds of celebration  and the the fun is enhanced when the bottles come in colour as they do if they are by Bottega. Recently, I was lucky to have a couple of delicious bottles of Prosecco on hand, each by Bottega. The Gold Prosecco Brut impressed for sure but it was the Bottega Rose Gold that really caught my attention. It is a terrific Spumante Brut rose, made from Pinot Noir grapes grown throughout the Veneto.

The hand painted bottles are not only eye-catching but "reflect the quality and care put into producing this wine”. Bottega do not use chemical-based products for their "metallised" bottles; this means the solvent for the varnish is water-based, instead of being oil or alcohol-based like more traditional varnishes.

Aldi Exquisite Collection Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (DOCG) NV,

From the heart of the Prosecco area, from the steep hillsides of Valdobbiadene in the Veneto, comes this DOCG Prosecco. It is exquisitely light and refreshing with pleasing bubbles, attractive autumn fruit flavours and  floral touches. Have to say quite an amazing Prosecco for an amazing price.

I had popped into the local Aldi in search of a Crémant de Jura but that was out of stock. I happened to spot this, including the DOCG, and took a gamble.

There is another Italian sparkling wine, Franciacorta, and it is well worth searching out. Again, the Le Caveau site can help you, here 

This Bellavista from wineonline.ie

The 1701 Franciacorta Brut DOCG is a blend of Chardonnay (85%) and Pinot Noir (15%).  The summer heat of the vineyard is tempered by the breeze from the lake (Iseo, about 30 minutes west of Lake Garda) and the mountains to the north. “We choose to keep it on the lees for 30 months, well above the appellation minimum. It is made in the traditional manner, manually harvested, with the indigenous yeasts, and a secondary fermentation in the bottle but with zero dosage.

It is a gorgeous sparkling wine, the palate full and generous, clean, fresh and elegant, apple notes, citrus too and that typical brioche note, beautifully balanced and a dry finish.

 

Taste of the Week. West Cork Food Company Pizza Sauce.

Taste of the Week.

West Cork Food Company Pizza Sauce.

Did a bit of a supermarket blitz on a recent morning, on the hunt for semi-sundried tomatoes but not a packet nor a jar to be had in the local SuperValu or Aldi. But what I did spot (in Aldi) was this jar of West Cork Food Company Pizza Sauce and that turned out to be a winner later that evening. No bother in nominating this as Taste of the Week.

We used it on a pizza made on the Gozney, using the Gozney dough recipe, adding this sauce, some of Johnny Lynch's Macroom Mozzarella, olives (Kalamata from Olives West Cork via Neighbourfood), a few dabs of the Ballyhoura Mushrooms Garlic Scapes Pesto along with (instead of the sundried version) some tomatoes to which we had added oregano and a few drops of Balsamic vinegar. One of best yet and that sauce was key!

They say: At the West Cork Food Company we believe that what makes our food unique is the people and land the produce it. Our classic pizza sauce is made of tomatoes with a pinch of herbs and a hint of onion, that's it! Enjoy on your favourite pizza or add to pasta to create an authentic Italian Neapolitan dish.

Can't find any internet presence for West Cork Food Company, aside from one post (a blank map of West Cork on Instagram).

The address on the jar is:

Unit 15 Údarás Industrial Estate

Ballymakeera, Macroom, Co. Cork.