Friday, January 5, 2024

Tradition, craftsmanship and the magic of time give Ramōn Bilbao's Gran Reserva its heart and soul. One to savour for years to come.

Tradition, craft and the magic of time give Ramōn Bilbao's Gran Reserva its heart and soul. One to savour for years to come.

Ramōn Bilbao Gran Reserva Rioja (DOC) 2015, 14%


 

€24.00 in Dunnes Stores.


In the late 19th century, when phylloxera struck in France, Haro was one of the first towns that French merchants called to, looking for replacement wines. The little town prospered and was the second Spanish town to get electricity - the first was Jerez. As you can see, the Spanish appreciate their wines!


Some years back, I arrived in Haro and set the Sat-Nav for a well-known winery. But the Sat Nav failed on a few occasions perhaps because there were so many bodegas in the small town. It got close to the “target” and then lost its bearings completely. So, after a few attempts, I abandoned my search and went general. “Any bodega will do. I’m going to stop at the next one we see”, I declared. And I followed my own advice, stopped at Tondonio and, just across the road, also visited their neighbour Rioja Alta (the bodega, not the actual area). Bodegas Muga also has a bodega here.

Where to now? On the outskirts of Haro.

 

You can't go wrong in Haro. Just stop and a bodega will be waiting for you. Of course, Ramōn Bilbao (noted by the World Wine Atlas as a top Tempranillo producer) is also in town, imparting its own style to the famous wines of Rioja. And this Grand Rreserva is a superb example of the style and the quality.


“A wine which is only produced in excellent vintages and which in its soul holds the tradition, craftsmanship and magic of time,” is the confident assertion from the producers. The colour is a mid-ruby, somewhat lighter at the rim. Aromas are smooth and fruity (plums and blackberries to the fore). 


And that amazing smoothness is also prominent in the mouth as the time (30 months, the requirement is six)) in the oak has its impact with vanilla, balsamic and spicy now joining the aromatics. It feels silky with a refreshing acidity and an excellent volume as this big grown-up and rounded wine moves to a long and lingering finish. In addition to the time in oak, it spends another 36 months in bottle in their underground wine cellar in total stillness and darkness.


Very Highly Recommended.


It is the perfect match for red meat, mature cheeses, barbecues and game dishes. Serve at 17-18 degrees.


What of the future at Ramōn Bilbao? Here’s what chief winemaker Rodolfo Bastida says:  “For Ramón Bilbao sustainability is a priority; we are strengthening our action plan in a programme for the coming years as a response to climate change. A step forward on the path to becoming a conscious company and taking responsibility for the impact we leave on the planet”.


“‘Since 2017, we have belonged to the Wineries for Climate Protection programme, the first and only specific certification for the wine sector with regard to environmental sustainability backed by the FEV (Spanish Wine Federation). In addition, we were the first winery in Spain to also certify our vineyard.”



They are indeed doing quite a lot in sustainability and you may see more, much more, on their website https://bodegasramonbilbao.com/en/sustainability/



Rioja red wine stickers:


The green label (cosecha) indicates less than one year in oak, less than one in bottle.


The red label (crianza) indicates 1 year in oak, 1 in bottle.


The burgundy (reserva) indicates 1 year in oak, 2 in bottle.


The royal blue (gran reserva) indicates 2 years in oak, three years in bottle.

Irish Produce Shines in Christmas Food and Drink

 Irish Produce Shines in Christmas Food and Drink


James Whelan’s Outstanding Heritage Cure Ham

Conversation slowed around the Christmas table, a sure sign that the diners were enjoying themselves. The focus of our taste buds was the magnificent Heritage Cure Low and Slow Roasting Ham (from Clonmel butcher James Whelan), a 3-Star Great Taste winner whose judges praised its “wonderfully inviting, moist, pink slices”. In this house, we all agree.



Christmas Cake

Took the German option this year, as we did in 2022, and once again enjoyed the Stollen (above) that we bought from local baker Angela (Ryes and Shine). It got a unanimous thumbs up here, especially when paired with the Rizzardi Prosecco from O’Briens Wine.


Porter

Two of my favourite porters, Kinnegar’s Yannaroddy 4.8% ABV, and West Kerry’s Carrig Dhubh (6.00% ABV) featured in a mini-porter session, more of a delicious duet than a duel.



Festival Ales

A  pair of stalwart Cork breweries produced our ales. Kinsale KPA, by Blacks, has long been a favourite and, a few years ago, we added the ales of Elbow Lane to the shortlist. Happy to have them again this year! The Elbow Pale Ale has a traditional English character (with malt prominent), is smooth and refreshing and a great match with food.


Wine

Adega Cachi Cachín Peza do Rei Ríbera Sacra (DO) 2021 was my favourite of the festival. A vineyard that has profited from being admired by ex-US President Barrack Obama, the wine is balanced, soft easy-drinking with a long refreshing finish. Find it at Le Caveau stockists.



Christmas Cheese

Hegarty's Friesians

The Grubb family in Tipperary produce Cashel Blue, one of the great blues. Blue for sure but wrapped in that marvellous irresistible creaminess from the well-watered grass of the area. No wonder it is so popular in Ireland. Indeed, it is sold all over the world including in dozens of outlets in France (mainly in Paris). Information on stockists here.



Whitechurch village is just a few miles north of Cork City and it is here you’ll find Hegarty’s farm and Dan’s herd of Friesians. While Hegharty’s are not confined to cheddar, it is indeed this magnificent cheese that has been snapped up by restaurants and retail customers alike over the past 20 years or so. Our wedge for Christmas tells us that it is as delicious as ever!


Christmas Juice

Apple Farm Sparkling Apple Juice has long been regarded as a delightful drink in this quarter. With time running out before the big day, we ordered a case direct from the Apple Farm and made good use of it, even using the juice as a substitute for sparkling wine (especially for drivers!).



And there was a bonus. Con Traas of the Apple Farm threw in a pack or three of his Slow-dried Irish Elstar Apple Crisps, another delicious product from Tipperary. Actually, quite a few Tipp stars are in this year’s festival line-up




Turkish Delight and Christmas Chocolate

Hadji Bey, once produced in Cork’s MacCurtain Street, is still a favourite in the city. And beyond. Now made in Kildare, it is widely available and, thanks to Bradleys in North Main Street, we enjoyed the traditional original Rose gift box! Bradley’s was also the source for a selection box of delightful chocolates by Chez Emily, an Irish Belgian Chocolatier based in Dublin, another sweet highlight


Fish

Hederman Smoked Salmon, in two different ways. One evening, we enjoyed the Hot Smoked version and another the Beech Wood smoked, both top class as we’ve come to expect from the Belvelly maestro.



Speaking of Hederman, have you ever used their smoked chilli flakes? Quite a few are flummoxed when coming across these for the first time but they are versatile and can be used with eggs (scrambled or otherwise), in soups and stews and in pasta dishes. We used them with a melted Camembert - see the BBC Good Food recipe here


Daily Bread

The Mayfield Bloomer, by local baker Angela (Ryes and Shine), was our daily bread. By the way, did you know Angela also does a loaf version of the popular bloomer? It has a softer crust than the original (ideal for those of us whose teeth aren’t as good as they used to be!).

Stained glass window at Pearse Lyons Distillery Dublin.


Kinsale Gin - making a mark!

Season’s Spirits

  Pearse Lyons Single Malt Whiskey (5-Years) again stepped up to the mark for Christmas. Something amazingly clean about it -  the crispness of the fruit, the toast of the oak, a waft of pepper, and the clove notes, from the to lingering finish. Spice and citrus also feature in the aromas and the malt too of course.


  Kinsale Gin was another welcome spirit. This popular small-batch gin, is produced by the Kinsale Spirit Company. They hand-pick local botanicals “to produce complete perfection… Every one of our treasured 21 botanicals have been carefully chosen..”. And it shows in the aromas, floral, citrus and essential juniper and is perfectly balanced on the palate.

Thursday, January 4, 2024

Didier’s Dedication Pays Off With Quality Wines Like This Delicious Fleurie

Didier’s Dedication Pays Off With Quality Wines Like This Delicious Fleurie


Domaine Didier Desvignes Fleurie (AC) 2021, 13.5%.

RRP: €23.95. Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

Everything I do both in vinegrowing and winemaking, aims at allowing nature and terroir to express themselves to the full. I choose traditional methods, including tilling between the rows, to guarantee the flavours in this wine.” 

Desvignes believes that great wines are produced from healthy and mature grapes. The Gamay thrives on pink granite soils and that is exactly what you find in Desvignes' Fleurie vineyards

The wine itself has more or less the usual light ruby colour. Aromas, floral and fruity, are also pretty much as expected. On the palate, the purity of the ripe red berry flavours is striking and it continues silky and elegant through a long finish. It is perfect with leg of lamb, poultry and grilled meat. Serve at 13°C (55°F).

This light and enjoyable wine is Very Highly Recommended

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Check my  list of top wines for 2023

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Check out my Good Value Wine List here


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The Desvignes family has been dedicated to the vines for six generations. Manual harvest and selection allied with respect for the equilibrium of the vines and the soil by treatment with organic manures creates wines, which express a balance between the aromatic richness of the grape variety and natural sugars and acidity. Traditional vinification techniques reflect the quality and character of each parcel of grapes.

Vinegrower-winemaker to the core, today it is Didier Desvignes’ turn to manage the family estate that has been active for over a century. They produce a wide range of Beaujolais appellations: Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin-à-Vent, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Beaujolais-Villages, and white and rosé Beaujolais-Villages. 

The first five names are cru wines in Beaujolais; the other five crus are St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Régnié, and Côte de Brouilly. Even though all crus are produced from the Gamay grape (a black grape with white juice), each one has its own personality, its own attractions. If you enjoy this Fleurie, why not try one from another cru, then another….

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Tuesday, January 2, 2024

2023 My Very Highly Recommended Irish Beers

 2023 My Very Highly Recommended Irish Beers

December 2022 to November 2023

My two favourites of the year:

McGill's An Coireán Barrel Aged Imperial Stout and Whitefield Brewery's Morning Dew Saison style


IPA 

Lineman KHZ IPA; Lacada (with Brehon) Dunseverick West Coast IPA; Bullhouse Frank The Tank Hazy IPA; Third Barrel Vulture Culture Cold IPA; Ballykilcavan Long Meadow IPA; Kinnegar Black Bucket Black Rye IPA; Torc Kerry Natterjack; White Hag Atlantean NEIPA; White Hag Danann Juicy; Boundary Imbongo Tropical; Wicklow Wolf Tundra Tropical; Heaney New England IPA; Heaney West Coast IPA; 9 White Deer Stag IPA; Hope Limited Edition No. 28 Double Rye; Blacks Red Eye Redemption; 9 White Deer Black Lightning; Third Barrel Electric Eyes Idaho & El Dorado IPA


Lager

Kinnegar Leaf Kicker 2023 Marzen; Third Barrel Stop the Clocks Pilsner; Hope Munich Helles Limited Edition No 27; Wicklow Wolf Running With Wolves India Pale Lager; Kinnegar #30 Unfiltered Hoppy Lager; Mescan Seven Virtues Lager; Lineman Undertone Dark Lager; Cotton Ball Mayfield 5; Whitefield Ivy Hall, Dark Lager; Tom Crean St Brigid’s; Galway Hooker Organic Pilsner; Whitefield Jockey Hall Vienna Lager; 9 White Deer Stag Kolsch; Kinnegar Brewers at Play #27 Black Lager.


Stout/Porter

Ballykilcavan Blackwell Stout; Wicklow Wolf Apex Oatmeal Stout; McGills An Coireán (BA); Tom Crean Six Magpies; 9 White Deer Stag Stout; Whitefield Traditional Series Irish Stout; Kinnegar Yannaroddy;  West Kerry Carraig Dubh; 9 White Deer Stag BA Export Stout; Brehon Oak & Mirrors BA Imperial Porter; Cotton Ball Lynch’s Stout; Dungarvan Coffee & Oatmeal Stout; Lineman (with Craic Beer Community) Pulse Irish Extra Stout; Whiplash The Wake Export Stout.


Pale Ale

Blacks KPA Kinsale Pale Ale; Rye River Upstream; White Hag Ninth Wave New World Pale Ale; Hope Pass If You Can Pale Ale; Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale; Heaney Notifications Off DDH Nelson Sauvin Pale Ale; Wicklow Wolf Elevation; Sullivan’s Pale Ale; Lineman Fluid Dynamic Extra PA; Whiplash Body Riddle; West Kerry Béal Bán; Western Herd Spanish Point.


Other Ales

Whitefield Harvest Ale Sour; Kinnegar Devil’s Backbone Amber Ale; O’Hara’s Irish Red Ale; Wicklow Wolf (with Devil’s Peak & Fierce Beer) Tryfecta Hazy Pale Ale; Brehon Brewhouse Killanny Red; McGill’s Maude Delap Irish Red Ale; Lough Gill Macadamia Nut Brown Ale; 9 White Deer Stag Rua; Ballykilcavan Bambrick’s Brown Ale; Whiplash Quiet Crowd Robust Brown.

Ales with Wild Yeast: Black Donkey Underworld Rua Amber Ale; Black Donkey Underworld Allta Farmhouse Ale; Black Donkey Underworld Savage Farmhouse /Saison Ale.


Session Beers

Rascals Session IPA; Wicklow Wolf Eden Session IPA; Whiplash Rollover Session IPA; White Hag Little Fawn Session IPA; Wicklow Wolf Pocket Dial Juicy IPA; Blacks Brewery Citrus Chiller Gluten Free Hoppy Lager; DOT Brew Spin Off Series Session IPA; Brehon Seisún Pale Ale; Third Barrel Boom Session IPA; 



November 2023

Sour: Whitefield Harvest Ale;

IPA: Lineman KHZ IPA

Pale Ale: Blacks KPA Kinsale Pale Ale; Rye River Upstream; 

Saison: Whitefield Brewery Morning Dew;

Amber  & Red Ale: Kinnegar Devil’s Backbone Amber Ale;


October 2023

Pale Ale: White Hag Ninth Wave New World Pale Ale; Hope Pass If You Can Pale Ale;

IPA: Lacada (with Brehon) Dunseverick West Coast IPA; Bullhouse Frank The Tank Hazy IPA; Third Barrel Vulture Culture Cold IPA.

Session: Rascals Session IPA; 

Marzen: Kinnegar Leaf Kicker 2023 Marzen.

Red Ale: O’Hara’s Irish Red Ale

Collaboration: Wicklow Wolf (with Devil’s Peak & Fierce Beer) Tryfecta Hazy Pale Ale.


September 2023

Session: Wicklow Wolf Eden Session IPA; 

Pale Ale: Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale.

IPA: Ballykilcavan Long Meadow IPA; Kinnegar Black Bucket Black Rye IPA.

Stout: Ballykilcavan Blackwell Stout

Red Ale: Brehon Brewhouse Killanny

August 2023

Stronger Beers: Mescan Westport Extra; Mescan Special Reserve Dark Beer; Mescan Westport Red Tripel. Hope West Coast IPA 

Session: Whiplash Rollover Session IPA; White Hag Little Fawn Session IPA; Wicklow Wolf Pocket Dial Juicy IPA.

IPA: Torc Kerry Natterjack; White Hag Atlantean NEIPA. 

Red Ale: McGill’s Maude Delap Irish Red Ale.  

Pale Ale: Heaney Notifications Off DDH Nelson Sauvin Pale Ale.

Stout: Wicklow Wolf Apex Oatmeal Stout.


July 2023

IPA: White Hag Danann Juicy; Boundary Imbongo Tropical; Wicklow Wolf Tundra Tropical 

Pale Ale: Wicklow Wolf Elevation; Sullivan’s Pale Ale; Lineman Fluid Dynamic Extra PA; Whiplash Body Riddle.

Session: Blacks Brewery Citrus Chiller Gluten Free Hoppy Lager;

Lager: Third Barrel Stop the Clocks Pilsner; Hope Munich Helles Limited Edition No 27


June 2023

IPA: Heaney New England IPA; Heaney West Coast IPA.

Lager: Wicklow Wolf Running With Wolves India Pale Lager; Kinnegar #30 Unfiltered Hoppy Lager; Mescan Seven Virtues Lager; Lineman Undertone Dark Lager.

Session: DOT Brew Spin Off Series Session IPA

Baltic Porter: Mescan Seven Virtues

Saison: Mescan Westport Saison.

Honey Hefeweizen: Wicklow Wolf Honey Hefeweizen Locavore Spring 2023


May 2023

Barrel aged stout: McGills An Coirean

Pale Ale: West Kerry Béal Bán

Porter: Kinnegar Yannaroddy; West Kerry Carraig Dubh; 

Stout: Tom Crean Six Magpies.

Honey Beer: Galway Hooker Honey Beer

Brown Ale: Lough Gill Macadamia Nut Brown Ale


April 2023

IPA: 9 White Deer Stag IPA; Hope Limited Edition No. 28 Double Rye 

Lager: Cotton Ball Mayfield 5; Whitefield Ivy Hall, Dark Lager; Tom Crean St Brigid’s

Wheat: Rye River Backwaters American Wheat.


March 2023

Lager family: Galway Hooker Organic Pilsner; Whitefield Jockey Hall Vienna Lager; 9 White Deer Stag Kolsch.

Stout: 9 White Deer Stag Stout; Whitefield Traditional Series Irish Stout

Red Ale: 9 White Deer Stag Rua

Session: Brehon Seisún Pale Ale; Third Barrel Boom Session IPA; 


February 2023

IPA: Blacks Red Eye Redemption; 9 White Deer Black Lightning

Brown Ale: Ballykilcavan Bambrick’s Brown Ale; Whiplash Quiet Crowd Robust Brown.

APA: Western Herd Spanish Point 

Saison: Black Donkey Sergeant Jimmy Barrel Conditioned Saison; Mescan Westport Saison; Black Donkey Sheep Stealer Irish Farmhouse Ale,



January 2023

IPA: Cotton Ball Fury

Session: Whiplash Rollover.

BA Beers: 9 White Deer Stag BA Export Stout; Brehon Oak & Mirrors BA Imperial Porter.

Lager: Kinnegar Brewers at Play #27 Black Lager

Porter: West Kerry Carraig Dubh.

Strong Blond Ale: Mescan Westport Extra

 

December 2022

IPA: Third Barrel Electric Eyes Idaho & El Dorado IPA

Witbier: Whiplash Alma Witbier 

Stout: Cotton Ball Lynch’s Stout; Dungarvan Coffee & Oatmeal Stout; Lineman (with Craic Beer Community) Pulse Irish Extra Stout; Whiplash The Wake Export Stout; 

Ales with Wild Yeast: Black Donkey Underworld Rua Amber Ale; Black Donkey Underworld Allta Farmhouse Ale; Black Donkey Underworld Savage Farmhouse /Saison Ale.