De Mey Magic at Blairscove House. Dinner of Delights

De Mey Magic at Blairscove House

Dinner of Delights

At dinner in Blairscove House in Durrus, you are very likely to meet owners the De Mey family: parents Philippe and Sabine De Mey along with daughter Ann and husband Chris Woodward. Head Chef Ronald Klotzer is Sabine’s brother.

The friendly family do most of the serving themselves, starting in the well stocked bar. This has beers on draught along with craft beer in bottle and virtually every spirit you can think of. There is a long and very interesting wine list and they also take pride in their cocktails.

Our apartment was overhead, so this was probably the shortest walk I ever made to a restaurant, though there was a pause on the stairs to take in the stunning sunset views over Dunmanus Bay.

Hadn't tried the Mountain Man’s Sneaky Owl beer previously so I was quite happy to take up the suggestion and happier again as I sipped the dark liquid. CL got quite a surprise when her Woodward Rose cocktail arrived in a teapot. During the days of prohibition in the US, people took all kinds of measure to disguise their alcohol, hence the teapot.

Quite a few of the wines are available by the glass and also some by the half bottle. We went half and half as our main courses were so different. I must say I was very happy with the El Coto Rioja Crianza (2010) but that was as nothing compared to CL's enthusiasm for the Rochebin Macon Lugny Chardonnay (2012).

I had to check that out and indeed, through a series of hard-won sips, found it was an gem from the home of the grape, an organic one at that. Nose is intense, it is balanced and fine on the palate, refreshing at all stages, especially in the finish.

The restaurant is located in a former barn. It is high, like a church, and the tall windows overlooking Dunmanus Bay were recesses through which the hay was pushed down to the animals from the loft above. Now, the loft is removed and they feed the hungry humans there in five star comfort. And they don’t throw it in through the windows!

Some starter options

There is a staggering array of starter options, decoratively displayed on a table, and you get all the help and information you need to make your choices. Basically, aside from the unusual smoked egg (one of the breads was smoked sourdough), I went fishy: a few oysters, cooked salmon and some salmon gravadlax. You could be tempted to overdo it here but restrain yourself, there is so much more to come. CL’s choices included curried quinoa with raisins and pomegranate seeds and the same salmon dishes as mine.

My main course, and there is an excellent choice (with a couple of specials thrown in), was the Grilled Rack of West Cork Lamb with Aubergine cheesecake and wilted spinach, served with the lamb jus and garlic cream.The presentation was deceptively simple, understating the pleasure ahead. The soft fat quivered like jelly. The blushing meat (no less tender) opened easily to the probing of the knife. Add in the accompaniments and I had paradise on the palate.

More starter options

What a splendid line-up CL had on her plate: Poached Breast of Guinea Fowl, tea soaked prunes and Savoy cabbage, Jerusalem artichoke purée and smoked bacon emulsion. Again the presentation was simple but it was flawlessly cooked and bite after bite of exquisite delight. Just to mention, the potato and vegetable sides were also spot-on.

Desserts (and cheese, including the local Durrus) are displayed on the Grand Piano. You are given a good sized plate before you are guided through the stunning selection of cakes and pots and other enticing options. I’m sure they are all gorgeous but I enjoyed my selection, especially the Tiramisu while CL, who likes her citrus, thoroughly enjoyed her Orange Cake and Lemon Tart.

So then we sipped our coffee from an elegant pot before making our way back up the steps outside to our apartment. Convenient or what?

See also: Walking on the Sheep's Head Peninsula
Taste of the Week. Cocktail in a Tea Pot
Castlefreke and Rathbarry, The Castles And The Wood

Staying at Blairscove House. A Perfect Place

Amuse Bouche

At the next roadside stand, Kotler asked the driver to pull over.

Several folding tables were arrayed on the gravel…. On the tables dozens of clear glass jars glowed with different shades of honey, from palest yellow to deepest amber. On the ground, in wicker baskets, sprawled mounds of apricots and melons. And from metal racks flanking the tables, long strips of purple Yalta onions hung like curtains. Shaded under a large blue beach umbrella, a Russian woman and Tartar boy in his teens sat on folding chairs.

from The Betrayers by David Bezmozgis

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week
Fig Cake with Almonds

Taste of the Week comes from Spain, via the shop at the Ballymaloe Cookery School. Just two ingredients make up this beauty: dried figs (90%) and Valencia almonds (10%). Simple but simply delicious!

At Home in Gleeson’s Townhouse! Roscommon Lamb Festival.

At Home in Gleeson’s Townhouse!

Roscommon Lamb Festival.

When you stay in Gleeson's Townhouse in the middle of Roscommon, you get to meet the Gleesons. They, Mary and Eamonn, give you a big friendly welcome; you see them at breakfast, you see them in the bar, they'll help you out with news of what’s on and how to get there. And this kind of personal interaction, from their staff as well, was a delightful part of our mini-break in the town.

We had travelled up from Cork via Thurles, Roscrea, Birr and Athlone, a three hour trip if you don't make stops. But, of course, we did. First one was in Roscrea for lunch. In the Cosy Kitchen, at the back of SuperValu in the town, we had a smashing curry, very well presented and with a very friendly service. We paid fifty cent for an hour’s parking on the street but there is a large car park behind the supermarket.

The Join Our Boys Parade

On then towards Birr where we headed off the main road and over to Clonmacnoise. Had been meaning to visit here for  a long time and the account is here. Cut up then to Athlone and it was well into the afternoon by the time we reached Gleeson’s. Time enough though for a walkabout, that included a visit to the ruined Castle in the park. This is a big one and must have been very impressive in its heyday.

Preparations were going on in the park for the Lamb Festival. And much of Friday was dedicated to Join Our Boys, a locally founded charity to help families afflicted by Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Indeed, the Maltese Supper that we so enjoyed that evening in Gleeson’s was a major fundraiser for the boys and it was great to be there. We were slightly out of place though as most of the locals were wearing orange as a sign of support!

Super curry in Roscrea's Cozy Kitchen

One of the encouraging signs on the trip was the availability of Irish Craft Beer and Gleeson’s, who also run a food and wine shop next door, had a good selection in bottle and at least one of the bars in the town has quite a few on draught. We enjoyed a few from Roscommon's Black Donkey, a Poacher’s Pale Ale from Carrig Brewing (in nearby Drumshanbo, brewed where they once made Bo Peep jam, itself recently revived!) and of course we couldn't resist the familiar Kinsale Pale Ale.

Saturday was a bad day so we headed underground, and very much enjoyed our tour of the Arigna Mining Experience. Read all about it here. In the afternoon, we renewed acquaintance with Kevin Finnerty, the man behind the Percy French Festival in July and who has spent the last 19 years or so restoring Castlecoote House where we enjoyed a guided tour LINK

Lamb shanks, Maltese style

The rain did not relent as the night arrived and we had to get a taxi to the Brazilian Barbeque held in a large marquee in the grounds of Hannon’s Hotel. We arrived just as the first of the food was being served up from the grills (chefs undercover!) and it was a tasty plate of local lamb with salads and breads and more besides. The rain continued but the punters kept coming and the band played on.

More lamb related festivities, including sheepdog trials, on Sunday, mainly in the park but we were on our way home by then. Before we left though we had a great chat with Mary. We'll have to go back for another one and this time we'll just have to taste her famous Irish Lamb Stew.

See also: The Arigna Mining Experience
Castlecoote House
Clonmacnoise
The Maltese Supper.

Two Portuguese Reds. One Rhone Ranger

Two Portuguese Reds.

One Rhone Ranger.

If it’s a red weekend (and the weather forecast indicates that it is), Karwig Wines have got you covered with this trio: two serious contenders from Portugal (and there are more on the way) and a consistently good performer from the banks (both of them!) of the Rhone. Check them out in the store or online.

Quinta do Penedo Dao 2009 (DOC), 13%, €17.25, Karwig Wines

It seems that many wine-drinkers now realise that Portuguese wines are by no means short of personality and class. Quite often, in the reds, that class is supplied by the native grape Touriga Nacional. It makes up 70 per cent of this blend while another indigenous grape, Alfrocheiro, accounts for the balance.

They sure seem to work well together in this dark red with its beautiful intense and warm aromas of juicy dark fruit. That intensity is also evident on the palate, some spice too; it is complex and elegant, with soft tannins and an impressive finish. This friendly juicy wine is Very Highly Recommended.

Herdade do Esporao Monte Velho (Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal) 2013, 13.5%, €14.35, Karwig Wines.

Touriga Nacional pops up again in this blend along with Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Syrah and a pretty good blend it is too. Colour is a light ruby with aromas of ripe red fruit. On the palate, it is fresh, fruity, light and elegant, with a fairly serious structure, well balanced and boasting a decent finish as well. Highly Recommended. The estate was founded in 1267, so they should know what they are doing.

Domaine André Brunel Est-Ouest 2011, Cotes du Rhone (AOC), 13.5%, €13.95 Karwig Wines

More often than not, Cotes du Rhone, whether from a tanker at a crossroads in Provence or at a top class northern city restaurant, delivers. This one sure does and is highly recommended.

The family estate is located on both sides of the Rhone. In the east, there is the stony soil of the Vaucluse and, in the west, the sandy slopes of Gard. Garnache (75%) is the lead grape in the blend, supported by Cinsault (15) and Syrah (10).

The red colour is medium, tending to light, and it has aromas of fruit (blackcurrant prominent). It is fruity upfront, spicy too, well balanced for sure, and the fruit element is maintained through the pretty long finish as well.

The Maltese Supper. More than a Meal.

The Maltese Supper

More than a Meal.

Gleeson’s & Roscommon Support Join Our Boys

Butter beans, with garlic & parsley.

Malta met Roscommon last week as part of the Roscommon Lamb Festival.  In Dingli village, Malta, amongst the gnarled olive trees and low-hanging carob branches, there is a family run farm set in an idyllic valley on the sun-kissed island, producing some of Mediterranean’s finest and most iconic food, including olive oil and wine. The family are the Mifsuds, their project is called Diar il-Bniet and their restaurant on the farm uses only the produce of the farm.

Gleeson's Town House, members of Good Food Ireland, are recommended in all the guides and rightly so. The Gleesons met the Mifsuds in Malta and invited them over. Gleeson’s are an integral part of the town and it is no surprise that they are fully behind the Join Our Boys , a charity founded here last year. The supper was a fundraiser and so instead of paying for a ticket, you made a donation. By Sunday morning, over a thousand euro had been raised.

Calm before the supper.

The ultimate aim of Join Our Boys is to ensure a treatment or cure is found for this catastrophic disease in time to save the lives of Archie, George, Isaac and all the children in this generation diagnosed with Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. To be told that one of your children has a fatal disease, that currently has no treatment or cure, is devastating. To be told your three children (including your twins) have a fatal disease that currently has no treatment or cure is beyond comprehension; it is beyond words.

Virtually everyone in the town was dressed in orange for the fund-raising on Friday and we got to take part in a parade through Roscommon and out to the castle before we came back to Gleeson's for the supper.

Here we met some of the visiting Maltese, including Dorianne, Darren, Can and chef David. Dorianne and Can took us through the “starter” buffet and we enjoyed samples of their farm food.

Archie (at rear) with twins George and Isaac
pictured on the twins' 5th birthday cake in Gleeson's last Friday.

There was a delicious Baby Broad Bean Paste  which you took with a crispy biscuit (gallette). They had a peppered sheeps cheese and a plain one, both hard. Their own olives, marinated with Maltese garlic and parsley, were gorgeous and we also sampled the Goat Cheese Pie with Broad Beans. Perhaps my favourite was the Butter Beans with Garlic and Parsley. And there was no shortage of a superb Tomato Paste (known in Malta as Kunserva).

In between, there was entertainment and young Archie belted out a number on the drums and followed up with a some fast paced rap.

And no shortage of wine either with Willie Tindal on hand with a couple of excellent samples from the vast range of Tindal Wines, a Chenin Blanc/Viognier from South Africa and a Cabernet/Merlot from Australia.

Broadbean paste and olives

Mary dishing out the main course.

We didn't have to travel too far for the beer as local craft brewers Richard and Michaela from the Black Donkey brewery were there with their two beers - they hope to have another two before the end of the year. I sampled both. First up was the Sheep Stealer (5.5% ABV) a Belgian-style saison, ideal with food. The other was their amber ale, their own style: “not a hop bomb, this one’s a malt bomb”.

Main course was Braised Spicy Lamb Shanks, Maltese style of course, with salad, big green beans, tasty roast potatoes (with seeds). Overall, this was delicious and cooked to perfection. And their desserts didn't disappoint either, especially the Maltese almond biscuits. There was a whole table full of desserts, chocolate very much in evidence! We also had the chance to taste some of their lovely breads.

We're pictured here with Dorianne (left)

The Mifsuds contributed hugely over the weekend and their food was sampled again on the Sunday at the aptly named Global Village in the park, just one of many events (including of course, sheepdog trials) staged as part of the Lamb Festival, now a well established annual get-together.

With all the international cuisine available - we had a Brazilian Barbecue on the Saturday night - we never got to taste Mary Gleeson’s famous lamb stew. Next time Mary!

• Just a note to those of you down south, Roscommon is just three hours from Cork. Take motorway to Thurles exit, then go through Thurles, Roscrea, Birr and Athlone.
  
  See also: The Arigna Coalmining Experience
  Clonmacnoise. An Important Site For Centuries.

Best Chef in Cork. Best Sweet Wine in the World. Greene’s Supper Club Delivers.

Best Chef in Cork.

Best Sweet Wine in the World.

Greene’s Supper Club Delivers.

It ain't heavy! It’s very clear, fresh, with a lovely acidity. For six years in a row, this was voted the best sweet wine in the world

Hugh Murray of Classic Drinks was finishing off a very enjoyable and informative edition of Greene's Supper Club at the McCurtain Street restaurant. The object of the April night was to help people decide on an appropriate wine choice for their meals. Manager Arthur Little could not have a chosen a better speaker to lead us through the evening.

And the sweet ending that Hugh had lined up for us was Seifried Estate Sweet Agnes Riesling. Produced by a couple, of Austrian and Irish origin, this Riesling is an ice wine. Launched ten years ago, it is late harvested and the grapes are frozen, then crushed, leaving the sugar. “Irish people are afraid of sweet wines,” Hugh remarked. But this could change all of that as it is not at all sticky. “Take a sip, allow it three seconds on the palate. Then let it slide!”. Superb.

Dessert, by the way, was superb as well, both of them. We had choice of two and the wine matched each. I enjoyed the Coconut Espuma with Peanut Ice Cream and Ivorian Chocolate Ganache Truffle. The other was also gorgeous: Rhubarb Meringue, Malted Milk Crumble, Vanilla Sorbet and Rhubarb Ginger Sorbet.

Arthur Little introduced the evening and promised more interesting food and drink events in the months ahead. “We are delighted that our chef Bryan McCarthy was named best chef in Cork at the recent Restaurant of Ireland awards in Munster and we wish him all the best in the national finals. Tell your friends that they can find him here.” Bryan, and his team, were in tip top form again and we had a terrific meal.

Ummera Smoked Salmon

Arthur then introduced Hugh who said he hoped “to open some doors during the meal to help people choose their wines. But wine is above all a personal choice. By all means trust your own opinion but, before making up your mind, listen!”

We had enjoyed Classic’s Colle del Principe Prosecco at the reception with the Goats Cheese Canapes and the Lychee, Lime and Green Tea Espuma. Then we were on to a choice of two starters and two wines to go with them.

I, along with quite a few more, picked the Trio of Organic Ummera Smoked Salmon, Cured Salmon Rillettes, with Blood Orange, Fennel, Seaweed, Squid Ink Ailol and Wasabi Mayo. Abadia San Campo Albarino was the match. “Good Albarino doesn't come cheap,” said Hugh. “Buy it young and drink it fresh.”

The other wine was South African, the Leopard's Leap Classic Chenin Blanc. “This is made with passion, is stylish, with a backbone of acidity and excellent value”. And a great match with the Celeriac, Ballyhoura Mushrooms and Artichoke.

Hake

The main event, with three different dishes, might have stretched a lesser man but no bother to Hugh and he got the thumbs up for all three pairings. Those who picked the Wild Mushroom Risotto were lucky enough to get the “incredible, outstanding” Opi Sadler Malbec from Argentina. “This combines power and tenderness.”

My wine, the Hunky Dory Sauvignon Blanc, is made by a husband and wife team in Marlborough. “Not typical of New Zealand,” according to Hugh. “There is a touch of the Loire in it and it punches above its weight”. I love the Loire and the wine was superb with the Seared Hake Fillet and Crispy Prawn Wontons.

Some of the group choose the Glazed Pork Belly Pecan and Apricot Crumb and the wine for this was the Parducci Small Lot Blend Pinot Noir. This variety is difficult to grow and here when they say small lot, they can point to the field. “It is produced in an environmentally friendly way and again made with passion.”   I got to taste some of this later on and, juicy and rich, it is a beauty, perhaps my favourite of the evening.

Well maybe! Can’t forget the clean taste of that ice wine!

Drinks. Talks and Tastings at Ballymaloe Lit Fest.

Drinks Talks and Tastings at Ballymaloe Lit Fest

Just to help mark your card, Colm McCan has been in touch with up to date info.

Craft Beers will feature.

Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine at Ballymaloe, 15^th – 17th May 2015.

There will also be over 20 wine & drinks talks and  tastings on wine, craft beer, craft cider, gin, whiskey, cocktails, rum, cooperage display, wine theatre and lots more, with participating wine & drinks experts from Ireland and overseas, including:

Jancis Robinson MW, one of the 'most respected wine writers in the world'

Alice Feiring, the New York based award winning natural wine writer 

Garrett Oliver, brewmaster and beer author, editor-in-chief of the Oxford Companion to Beer, and brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery

Caroline Hennessy, co-author of Slainte, the book on Irish Craft Beer and Cider

Desmond Payne, the world’s most experienced Master Gin Distiller 

Irish Craft Beer with some of Ireland's top craft brewers on stage with Caroline Hennessy

Irish Craft Cider with some of Ireland's top craft cider producers on stage with Leslie Williams

Brian Nation, Master Distiller Midleton Distillery

Dave Broom, prolific drinks writer, author of over 10 books on Whiskey including 'The World Atlas of Whisky'

Nick Strangeway, a cocktail legend on the international bar scene

John Wilson, wine & drinks writer, The Irish Times

Raymond Blake, wine editor, Food and Wine Magazine

Mary Dowey, wine editor, The Gloss Magazine 

Leslie Williams, wine & drinks writer, The Irish Examiner

Tomas Clancy, wine & drinks writer, The Sunday Business Post

Tom Doorley, wine & drinks writer, The Irish Daily Mail

Oisin Davis, one of Irelands top names in cocktails

Ger Buckley, 5th Generation Master Cooper, Midleton Distillery

Susan Boyle with her critically acclaimed 'A Wine Goose Chase' combining wine tasting and theatre

And much much more throughout the Litfest weekend 

Please see link here for full programme of events www.litfest.ie

Please contact Colm@ballymaloe.ie for any further information on the wine and drinks events at Litfest.

Amuse Bouche

In this solitude he sipped his wine, liking the solidity of the house, the smell of books and carpets, the whiff of wood smoke from the fire, the aromas from the kitchen, always lamb or fish stews and chowders, and bags of fresh salads sent up every morning from a restaurant in Vineyard Haven…

The pale yellow Chablis in his glass was so rich that when he tipped his glass to sip, and righted it, he saw that it was viscous, showing its legs on the side of the glass. He tasted the sunshine on his tongue, in his throat, and its warmth relaxed him.

from Blinding Light by Paul Theroux (2005)

Superb Gin From Blackwater Distillery. Watch Out For The Cappoquin Heron

Superb Gin From Blackwater Distillery.

Watch Out For The Cappoquin Heron!

The making of a London Dry Gin is a process subject to certain regulations as regards to inputs, almost like a wine appellation. This was our introduction to Blackwater No. 5*, the LDC from Cappoquin with the heron in the logo that is already making a name for itself.

Peter Mulryan was our informative guide on a visit to the fledgling Blackwater Distillery. Peter, the distiller and one of four directors, told us about the botanicals, 12 if I remember rightly, used in the process, including Coriander which goes “citrus-y” in the mix. Considering that citrus (dried skins) and bitter orange (also dried skins) are also used you could see why he advised against using a lemon in your gin. Lime would be a better choice.

The orange skins, by the way, come from Spain, the pulp having been extracted to make marmalade. Some spices, including Cinnamon and Cardamom, are also used.

Juniper is perhaps the best known element, having been traditionally used to make gin, and indeed provides the dominant flavour. Got my hands on a juniper berry and when I crushed it between the fingers it began to feel oily. It is this oil that is extracted and used.

In the still.

Three roots help complete the mix, including liquorice and angelica which “tastes kind of gin-ny”.

And if you thought that this was the first time that these exotic botanicals have reached the beautiful banks of the Blackwater, you'd be mistaken. Peter related the remarkable story of the White family from Waterford who, in the 18th and 19th centuries, imported spices, some from faraway places, and distributed them widely, even sending their own boats up the Blackwater with spice consignments for the many big houses on its banks.

The stills are small here, so small they even have names. Distillation though happens quickly and you can make a decent size batch of gin in a day. By the way, there is a reason why most stills are made of copper. Peter: “Copper softens the mouthfeel. The alcohol won’t ‘burn’ you”, he told us. Aside from the stills, they also have a bottling machine on-site.

Already, the new distillery has cooperated with local brewers, including Dungarvan Brewing Company, as it seeks to position itself away from the really big distillers with which it cannot compete on price.

Still and, right, cooling tower.

 And Blackwater can certainly be different as I found out with the next few tastings. First up was the Curious Still vodka distilled from a double IPA by Black’s of Kinsale. “That is taking the bland out of vodka,” said one obviously impressed taster in our small group.

Now we were on to Poteen, called the Spirit of West Waterford, made from local ingredients, and recently subject to government regulations. This was based on a hop-free oatmeal stout, brewed by Dungarvan Brewing Company. It also contains local barley, Flahavan’s oats and "a smidgen of molasses". This “very soft” drink, with an ABV of 43%, was such a hit at the recent West Waterford Festival of Food that the plan is “to move it into commercial production” in the months ahead.

And there is even better news to come. Peter proudly showed us a few small casks made in Finland from juniper wood (the wood itself imported from Serbia). It is hard to get enough of the timber as juniper is a bush, not a tree. An initial batch filled one of the casks and has been a success, “a great gin”, and production of this will also be scaled up. One way of being different.

Small cask, made from juniper.

 And whiskey, Well, no whisky yet. Remember you have to wait three years and one day to have your whiskey approved as Irish Whiskey or as Irish Whisky as Peter would spell it. Plans are well advanced but you won't find their whisky on the shelves anytime soon. At present, you may pre-buy one of a limited number of  50 litre casks.

“We offer people a choice of seven whisky styles in a choice of wood finishes,” says Peter. These won't be any old whiskey. You’ll be offered anything from Single Malt to a peated Pot Still Irish. Check out their website http://blackwaterdistillery.ie for details.

Innovation is the name of the game here. Peter, a native of nearby Conna, learned the trade in Scotland and that knowledge and his enthusiasm are now being let loose on the final big bend of the Blackwater. Watch out for the heron silhouetted on their bottles, coming to a shelf near you.

*  Blackwater No. 5 is distributed by Classic Drinks.

Peter (left) and Yours Truly