New Kids on the Block. #51 Cornmarket Street. We took a knock. We go again.

New Kids on the Block. #51 Cornmarket Street.

We took a knock. We go again.

David Devereaux and Anne Zagar, the young couple behind #51, are delighted to be back up and running at their new restaurant in Cornmarket Street. The enthusiastic pair and equally enthusiastic small staff had something of a false dawn back in March when Covid19 forced a sudden closure just a couple of weeks into their opening run.

Still, that youthful enthusiasm, backed by the solid experience they have acquired in various kitchens as they learned the ropes, is undimmed after their “second coming” as I found when we visited for lunch last week. We enjoyed it and said so. “Do come by again when we’ve expanded a bit,” I was told as I left! Can’t beat the youth!

While both are chefs, David has the Head Chef title here and “is the brain force behind our kitchen and the driving passion behind our ethos”. From the nearby north side, he began his studies in Cork which led to a scholarship in Johnston & Wales (RI, USA), an apprenticeship under Michael Fleming and a further stage in London’s Mayfair. David has been cooking around Cork for several successful years while always searching for somewhere to call his own and has found it in the Coal Quay, in what was previously The Parlour. 

Fish fingers like never before!

Now at #51, he has a clear vision, using many local suppliers to create a dining experience that is “funky, fresh and professionally thought out. His cooking style is modern Irish with a special focus on seafood while also being a dab hand at a Lemon Tart every once in a while.” 

Those local producers include O’Mahony Butchers, Ballycotton Seafood, Pana Bread, Kilbrack Farm, Annabella Farm, English Market, McCarthy’s Kanturk, O’Brien’s Free Range Eggs. And even more local is the nearby rooftop farm, now with the addition of their own hens!

They do everything in-house including curing their own fish. We got a sample of their rainbow trout as we left and it is superb. Do look out for that House Cured Rainbow Trout (more sustainable than salmon). You’ll see it in their Eggs Royale with Eggs and Hollandaise.

Herbs at hand

Anne herself has quite a distinguished CV as well. She trained at Ballymaloe Cookery School and studied French Patisserie at Le Cordon Bleu London. She was head chef at The Pavilion Garden Centre, owner-operator at Something Sweet, head chef and kitchen manager at Rachel's, and manager/coordinator at Hotel Isaacs Cork. 

She’s well able to take a turn in the kitchen but last week she was out front, keeping an eye on and serving their customers both inside their little terrace and also at the tables now allowed on the wide pavement of the Coal Quay itself. 

And she’s even got the mayoral nod of approval for her baking, particularly her scones which come in quite a few flavours: Blueberry and lime, white chocolate and cranberry, Cinnamon, pecan and toasted oats, and the traditional sultana.

You’ll get a terrific breakfast here but we were in for a spot of lunch, which they start serving about the 12.30pm mark when the menu goes up on the window. No menus handed out at present due to you know what!

Scones galore

The list may be short but is tempting, even includes a few of the egg dishes from the breakfast. We seriously considered the organic Farm Salad (tomato, local feta, potato, mint , cucumber and leaves). Another attraction was the Brisket, Pickled Onion and Celeriac Remoulade and also the Pork Belly with apple and red cabbage.

CL hit the jackpot when she picked the Beetroot, local goat cheese, pesto, pickled onion and organic leaf in a Ciabatta bun. Neatly presented, this is a superb dish, packed with local goodness and that bread is soft and tasty, the dish well priced too. Highly Recommended.

Eggs Royale, with that trout!

And I very much enjoyed another dish that comes into the Highly Recommended category: the crispy trio of fish fingers, superb cod as it turns out, comes with a delicious citrus salsa, and a well-judged amount of sweet curry in a beautiful soft bap. I had sticky fingers and a happy belly by the time I finished this easy-eating beauty, just the job for lunch in the summer-time.

David

Hopefully, David and Anne will be serving many similar platefuls before the summer departs. You’ll enjoy the happy youthful approach at this city centre venue and you know where your food comes from. It’s just a few yards from Patrick Street, so do look out for #51!

51 Cornmarket Street

Cork

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/51cornmarket/

Tel: 083 010 2321

Open Wed to Sun inclusive.

Cool Cider Guys Live as Thundershower Rattles Ballymaloe's Big Shed. Amazing Samples as Drinks Theatre Reopens

Three Talk Cider as Thundershower Rattles The Ballymaloe Big Shed.

Amazing Tasting as Drinks Theatre Reopens with Live Event!

The humble apple was the star of the show as live events returned to the Drinks Theatre in the famous Big Shed at Ballymaloe. On Saturday evening, Barry Walsh (Killahora Orchards), Pascal Rossignol (of Le Caveau, representing Eric Bordelet of Normandy) and Rubert Atkinson (Longueville Beverages), came laden with good things and proudly and passionately spoke on how the drinks were produced.

“Seamus McGrath had been talking about events post lockdown, and we came up with this mad idea,” said Colm McCan as he introduced our trio. Colm promised the series would continue every Saturday through August and the next event features all drinks sparkling.

Cider with (l to r): strawberry, elderflower, ginger.

Expect a surprise or two. The organisers themselves were “ambushed” on Saturday last when the session had to be extended a little as both Barry and Rubert produced surprises, neither has seen a shop shelf yet and each is delicious. 

Rubert came with his ABC: apple, brandy and cream. That cream comes from Ballymaloe’s Jersey cows. ”Enjoy like a Baileys. It is lovely and light and weighs in at 17% abv.” Barry spoke about their exciting champagne style cider, no name yet but due for release later in the year. ‘Based on 40% wild apples, it is quite a robust and interesting drink with the acidity coming from the hedgerow apples. It is clear and naturally carbonated and has been rested on its lees, is fermented in bottle and, like champagne, has been disgorged.” Another beauty to look forward to from Killahora.

Perry Poiré

All three producers frown on ice with their quality ciders, all backing Barry on that as he introduced his Johnny Fall Down Early Apple Cider, a slightly lighter version than the Late Apple. He said you could think of the two as a white wine and a red wine. 

The Early Apple (picked earlier) is “100% juice — wild ferment — a year or more maturation —very dry — tannin a strong feature — bitter sharp, bitter sweet — pairs well with food especially seafood and bbq.” The Late Apple, both were vintage 2017 by the way, is driven by 30% Dabinett and lots of French varieties, some inedible as a fruit. And again this is designed “for food”.

Rubert also had ciders on his stand. The regular, Longueville House Cider, has an abv of 5.9%. “No chemicals and no pesticides” and he told how the estate benefits from the River Blackwater flowing through. They grow two varieties of apple here, the Dabinett and the Michelin. The sugar is natural and they use no extra sulphites. Longueville’s Mór gets is higher abv (8,00%) from fermenting in their apple brandy casks. “It is the same juice as the regular cider but is more robust, has more character, more flavour, well rounded, well balanced, really lovely.” I can agree with all of that! 

When Eric Bordelet was starting off, some 30 years ago, he was advised to make “poiré as winemakers make wine”. Pascal has known Eric, a biodynamic grower, for decades and says while he has the 30 years behind him, he is still learning, even now with the challenges of climate change. “Back in 1992, he noted a gap at the top of the market but also realised he needed granitic soil”.

Cider colours: Killahora, Normandy, Longueville

With all that sorted - I didn’t quite get the details here as a thunderstorm rattled the old shed - Eric has become one of the most renowned cider and perry makers in the Normandy region. We had his Sidre Brut, a classic dry cider, tender or mellow in the mouth, yet also lively with plenty of acidity and extremely refreshing in front of us now. “It is made from 20 varieties and fermentation goes on for much longer than his other products, bottling in May or June, the exact time decided by tasting.”  Eric’s training as a sommelier helps him pick the correct moment.

And that experience and training also come into play with his Poiré Authentique. This juice spends just  2 to 3 months in barrel as Eric seeks “the main balance he wants” between sugar, acidity and tannin. “It is all about subtlety.” And we could appreciate that as we sipped this refreshing perry. It is made from about 15 varieties of pears. By the way, Pascal confirmed that some of Eric’s pear trees are over 300 years old!

Barry (l), Pascal and Rubert (r).

When it comes to pears, Killahora has no less than 40 varieties on their south-facing slopes in Glounthaune. They have a lovely 2017 Poiré (Perry) as well. Barry: "A slight floral nose - a Pet’ Nat style - not too many bubbles - lemonade, gooseberry, slight smokiness - - we use only wild fermentation - no temperature control, only the small barn - everything is vintage based.”

At half-time, our trio didn’t produce the oranges but we did have some refreshing fruit ciders. Three big colourful jugs appears and ice was now allowed! One had elderflower mixed in, another had ginger, while the third was made up with strawberry. All absolutely delicious and refreshing and Rubert encouraged us all to make them ourselves. “Use a good base cider like the ones in front of us and experiment to find what your favourite taste is. You don’t have to rush off to the supermarket to buy this type of drink. Support local and see how versatile cider really is.”

Killahora's Late Apple, their sparkling cider, and Longueville's Mór

The ABV went up a bit as we approached the final round, beginning with Killahora’s Pom’O. Barry: “The last pick of the apples, bitter-sweet with apple brandy and hedgerow added. It is aged in fairly neutral Irish whisky barrels and this 2018 has a great balance between the freshness of the apple and the alcohol. It’s perfect with dessert, particularly with blue cheese, and, not too sweet, not too strong, is also perfect for cocktails.”

Then he produced their Apple Ice Wine. “We’re very happy with its reception. This is 11% abv, depends on the vintage. We freeze the juice, then slowly thaw it to increase the concentration of flavour and tannin and so. Sweet yes but the must have acidity is there. Great with goats cheese, with cheese in general. It is 100% natural, just juice.” An amazing drink and no wonder it is getting so much attention.

Longueville House Apple Brandy is well-known at this stage and has picked up many an award. “Very smooth, no burning, and with a lovely aftertaste,” said Rubert. “It is a quality spirit and as such does not need a mixer or ice. Enjoy!” 

We did enjoy that final sample as we had enjoyed the event from the first flight (Perry) to the smooth farewell from the brandy. A superb opening to the series which continues here next Saturday with all kinds of bubbles on show.

Amuse Bouche

“Let’s eat,’ I say. ‘Come on.’

I have prepared what I know Fonny likes: ribs and cornbread and rice, with gravy, and green peas. Fonny puts on the record player, low: Marvin Gaye’s What’s Going On.

‘Maybe Tish can’t gain no weight,’ says Daniel, after a moment, ‘but you sure will. You folks mind if I drop by more often - say, around this time?’

from If Beale Street Could Talk by James Baldwin (1974). Very Highly Recommended.

Stylish Staycation. Calling to a Station near you!

Stylish Staycation. 

Calling to a Station near you! 

All Aboard The Emerald Pullman!

CORK ATTRACTIONS INCLUDED IN NEW ‘EMERALD PULLMAN’ STAYCATION ITINERARY

Cork, Cobh and the village of Blarney are to be visited by holidaymakers travelling on a new deluxe train, coach and accommodation tour soon to be operated by Dublin-based Railtours Ireland in association with Iarnród Éireann.

Marketed under the title of ‘The Emerald Pullman’, the tour will visit almost every tourist sight and destination accessible by road and rail, departing Dublin on Sundays from August 9th until August 23rd inclusive, travelling throughout on a fast, comfortable private intercity train exclusively allocated by Iarnród Éireann to the Emerald Pullman service.

A departure from their normal rail tours offering, the 7-night, 8-day rail tour was devised as a response to the absence of overseas visitors at whom their programmes are normally aimed.

A feature of the package is that guests living outside Dublin can model their plan according to their preference – joining the tour in Waterford, Cork, Limerick, Galway and Belfast – while guests boarding in Dublin can, for example, do segments of the tour.

Commenting, Railtours CEO, Jim Deegan said: “Working in association with Iarnród Éireann – with all of the comfort and reassurance that provides for customers – the Emerald Pullman package offers holidaymakers the chance to sit back, relax and absorb all of the scenic attractions that has made Ireland the top-ranking tourist destination it is”. 

Further details of their Emerald Pullman offering can be had at www.railtoursireland.com

media release

Taste of the Week Ballyhoura’s Freeze Dried Berry Mix

Taste of the Week

Ballyhoura Mushrooms Freeze Dried Berry Mix

No wonder chefs love Lucy and Mark of Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms. The pair are always coming with up something new and it is invariably delicious. Just like our Taste of the Week!

Oops, think I overdid it! They are delicious.

I’ve just tried out this new product: a large jar of Freeze Dried Berry Mix, including red currants, blackcurrants, strawberry pieces, raspberries and blueberries. This mix of delicious berries has been freeze dried for maximum flavour and nutrient retention. And they’re not kidding. Just bite into one of those little blackcurrants and be prepared to be hit by a very pleasurable fruit bomb! Amazing stuff.

Uses recommended are: granola, yogurt, porridge, desserts, to decorate cakes or incorporate in baking, and snacking. I’ve used them with granola and with ice-cream. Over to you chefs and cooks! Oh, by the way, if you don’t fancy the mix, you may also buy single-fruit jars. All available via Neighbourfood where I came across them.

Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms Ltd

V35 Y096

Ireland

ballyhouramushrooms@gmail.com 

A Quart of Ale± #3. An impressive trio from Thornbridge and one from Berkshire's Siren

Bliss

A Quart of Ale± #3

An impressive trio from Thornbridge
and one from Berkshire's Siren

Thornbridge are best known (to me anyhow) for their superb Jaipur, a classic Indian Pale Ale. They started life in a local stately home and are now based in Bakewell, a small market town in Derbyshire, and you’ll find them on the banks of the Wye.  Having associated the brewery with Jaipur, I thought they were long established and was surprised to see they started up as recently as 2005. Following an array of awards and national recognition, Jaipur (launched in mid-2005) catapulted Thornbridge into the spotlight and eventually into a brand new brewery.

Thornbridge “Shelby” India Pale Ale, 5.0%, 330ml bottle, Bradley's of Cork

Shelby, the official beer of Peaky Blinders the TV series, pours a golden amber, the white head vanishing as quickly as an opportunist thief. Surprisingly fruity nose and that continues onto the arresting palate. Here too the maltiness makes a discreet and pleasant appearance and there’s a citrus enhanced bitterness. Excellent mouthfeel too. This is full of flavour and character, and so much better than many celebrity drinks. 

Looks as if you were a beer drinker of 1919, the year in which the TV series is set, you did very well for yourself indeed. Once you weren’t doing porridge, of course.

Hops used are Fuggles and Bramling Cross while the malts are Low Colour Maris Otter, Crystal, Munich.

Thornbridge “Bliss Point” Hazy American Pale Ale, 5.0%, 330ml can, Bradley's of Cork

It is yellow and, just to confirm, a hazy one, more than slightly so.  Aromas see the hops float up with fruit coming through as well. Just a small little can but one with big juicy flavours from the backbone of a quartet of US hops, namely Cascade, Simcoe, Azacca, Citra. Malts, you may like to know are Low Colour Maris Otter, Wheat. Quite a combination. Lots of hazy stuff around nowadays but, clearly, this is one of the better ones. 

I see craftcentral.ie describe this as “extremely crisp” but I can’t agree with that assessment. This is as smooth as they come, packed with those expected tropical fruits, with the American hops performing prominently in both the aromatics and flavours. Relax and enjoy. This is what craft beer, good beer, is all about. Cheers!

By the way, having finished a wine session and feeling lazy, I drank this from a Lumin Arc balloon type wine glass and found it worked out very well indeed, the 330ml can fitting in precisely with room for a fine if short-lived white foamy head.

Thornbridge “Tupelo” Hazy Pale Ale, 5.5%, 440ml can

(in collaboration with Salt Beer) Bradley's of Cork

You can smell the hops almost at “social distancing” here as this hazy ale fills your glass with a pale yellow, a big white head too but, unlike the hops, that soon clears down to a sparse cover. Tropical fruits aromas come from the Sabro (“fantastic”) / Citra / Ekuanot / Galaxy / Chinook / and Centennial hops. Malts by the way are Maris Otter / Wheat / Oats.

The hops also make their presence felt later on but there is no jarring domination. The beer is harmonious, pleasant and easy drinking, quite an exotic fruity juice bomb in the mouth and refreshing for sure with a dry finish.

The Salt Beer Factory, the other party in this collaboration, are based in a disused power station in the Yorkshire village of Saltaire, about 90 minutes north of Thornbridge (which is in the Peak District). And Tupelo? Must be the city in northern Mississippi, most famous as the birthplace of Elvis Presley.

Siren White Tips Session IPA, 4.5%, 440ml can, Bradley’s

Pale yellow (hazy) is the colour of this session beer that lists wheat as one of the ingredients. The white foamy head beats a hasty retreat. Quite a lot of citrus, including sharp lemon, in the aromas. And, with the addition of a hint of clove, the story is much the same on the palate. Not surprising really, considering the brewers have added zest of orange, grapefruit and lime. Quite a distinctive beer to be fair and one sure to suit quite a few drinkers.  Yet there’s good harmony here and a lip smacking finish.

Siren brew this every spring and they say: “White Tips is our expression of a wit beer combined with IPA levels of hops. A traditional wit yeast works in harmony with the citrus peel and a healthy hop dosing to create a balanced IPA that is sure to pull you in wave after wave.”

Malts: Lager, Wheat, Malted Oats

Hops: Hallertau Blanc, Centennial, Cascade, Simcoe

Adjuncts: Orange zest, Grapefruit zest, Lime zest 

Best of Bread and Pastries as Arbutus return to Killavullen Farmers Market

Best of Bread and Pastries as Arbutus return to Killavullen Farmers Market

You can now get your fix of some of the best breads and pastries in Ireland at Killavullen market this Saturday, 25th July and every fortnight after from 10.30am to 1pm. There is a wide range of sourdoughs, yeast breads, bagels and pastries to suit all tastes! Made in Cork by Declan Ryan's bakery, Arbutus is known as one of the finest in the country.

Killavullen is one of the oldest farmers markets in Ireland and is located in the grounds of the Nano Nagle Centre, on the main road between Castletownroche and Mallow with plenty of parking. The market is continually evolving and continues to surprise each week! 

Covid Measures

There is one entrance and one exit with hand sanitizer available to be used on the way in and out. We make use of the large outdoor spaces we have for the time being. All stallholders will be taking their own precautions and will be spread out around the grassy area. Food producers will have their produce in packaging where possible as per guidelines. 

For our friends visiting the market, we ask you to follow public health guidance and of course if you are feeling unwell or have been in close contact with anyone who has symptoms recently, please stay away! When purchasing please try to have correct change and if someone else is buying at a stall please queue at least 2m from them and other people. There is plenty of parking around Nano Nagle. You may have to queue for a few minutes to get in but if you arrive early you will avoid the busier time.

Somethings don't! 

 All regular stallholders will be there as usual, along with a number of seasonal producers. You will find plenty of the finest seasonal veg, fruit and flowers, as well as the staples that you have been missing. There is also a wide selection of unique gifts, all from local producers.

Regular stallholders have a range of products from locally grown vegetables all in season, handcrafted baked goods, breads, jams, chutneys and cordials. There is a fine selection of smoked salmon, fresh raw milk and yogurts.

Media release

Spanish Wine Week Coming Up in October, plus more on wine, spirits and beer in Cheers #13

Cheers #13

SPANISH WINE WEEK will be BACK in October from the 12th to the 18th

Tons of events & promotions around Ireland

Save the date & stay tuned

#SWW2020 can't wait

Tuscany Bistro re-launch Italian Supperclub - The Dingle Gin Edition

Tuscany Bistro, Castletroy are delighted to announce the re-launch of our first Italian Supperclub: The Dingle Gin Edition. This event will be filled with a cooking demo of a starter, main course, and dessert all infused with Dingle Gin, each course paired with a Dingle Gin cocktail. There will be arrival Canapes & Cocktails at 6.30pm (10th August). Tickets via Eventmaster here .

Wines Direct Offer A Taste of Portugal

In honour of Quinta do Crasto making it to #8 on the TOP 50 World's Best Vineyards, a selection of the best wine destinations in the world, we present to you the Taste of Portugal Case. The ever so perfect Portugal case features three wines from Quinta do Crasto and three wines showcasing our top Portuguese picks from Pousio and Pessoa. Details here.

UK Government Sleepwalking to Fine Wine Disaster

A stark picture of a post-Brexit UK wine trade fills David Allen MW with horror.

The WSTA is the UK wine trade's political lobby group, so when I joined their recent Post-Brexit Trading for Fine Wine Merchants webinar, I was expecting they might paint a picture of the UK government failing to understand the implications of Brexit for the UK's fine wine sector.

The picture painted, however, of a government sleepwalking towards a disaster for the wine industry was far more horrifying than I had imagined. More here