Celtic Ross team all geared up to look after you well in Rosscarbery

Celtic Ross team all geared up

 to look after you well in Rosscarbery 

Union Hall (on the left) and Glandore (tucked away on the right) are just a few minutes from the hotel

A cool and welcome drink

Rosscarbery’s Celtic Ross was the last hotel we stayed in before the Covid hit and the first visited after the lockdown was lifted. And you could see the team here had worked their socks off to make the current experience as safe and as comfortable as possible for all their guests. No shortage of personnel to help you as you arrived and in the dining room later on.

The only place you didn’t see any staff member was in your room. That room had been sterilised by fogging machines prior to check-in. The room was then sealed until our arrival and no staff member allowed enter until we left. They have taken a myriad of precautions and you may see the full list here. 

The new normal

You’ll notice too that your room has been pared back - no hotel guide (but you can check it online via a QR code). Same with your dining table - no extras. Pared back perhaps but, masks or shields, there’s no cutting back on the welcome. It’s as warm as ever and we also had a terrific dinner and breakfast here.

Earlier, we had been driving around West Cork and were feeling the heat. A cool glass of water helped immediately on arrival and our order for a couple of Blacks Brewery Session IPAs was soon delivered to our room and we enjoyed them! Revived, we took a short walk in the direction of The Warren and watched some of the many seabirds that visit here as they fed on the incoming tide.

Sri Lankan Style Curry

There were some excellent choices on the dinner menu, though we both felt like ignoring the mains and eating through the list of starters. They were all very tempting indeed. And there were a few specials as well. We continued with the beers here, that Session along with the Roaring Ruby Red Ale (on draught) our choices.

Rosscarbery Pork Belly

Speaking of choices, my starter was Korean fried Rosscarbery Pork Belly Popcorn, Culture Food Co kimchi, Gochujang Korean style chili sauce, toasted sesame seeds. Very happy with that one, high in quality and not lacking in quantity either. And that local kimchi impressed very much indeed, so much so that I purchased a jar of it the next day in the deli in the Customs House in Baltimore.

Dessert

Local suppliers are always well supported here and CL’s choice was the Sun View Goats Cheese Salad Rolled in pistachios, heirloom tomatoes, pickled fennel and pinto beans, salsa verde cocida. That cheese comes all the way from Macroom! And was well used here in a delicious salad.

CL continued with Shannonvale Chicken Supreme (GF), Crushed peas, herb and potato cake, crispy onions and red wine jus, another local supplier well highlighted here, another excellent plate. We did call for a side order of fries but, to tell the truth, there was little need for them.

Breakfast pancakes

I stayed on an Asian tack, ordering the Sri Lankan Style Cashew Curry Chickpeas, potato, roasted vegetables, spiced pilaf rice. And I took the option of adding chicken, another piece from Shannonvale. This was one of the best curries I’ve eaten out, full of flavour but nothing at all extreme and indeed it would have been quite sufficient even without the added chicken (lovely and all as it was).

They have always prided themselves on their shielded breakfast buffet but that too has changed. Now you get a menu and a pencil and you tick your choices, like doing an exam our server joked. Worked quite well though and, while I know the Full Irish would have been gorgeous, we both decided on the pancakes. And they were top notch - might have been improved a bit with a few local berries (thinking Bushby’s here!) but “doused” with Maple syrup we enjoyed them very much indeed. 

Soon, we were heading out, having been seen off in style. Even if the desk was shielded, we had a lovely chat and all the details were correct. 

We were heading for lunch at the Customs House where top Chef Dede now operates. There was no rush so we decided to detour to Glandore and Union Hall (another place that doesn’t come up on our Sat-Nav, by the way). On the way to Glandore, we were asked to detour as there was a funeral on the regular road. So we did as requested and got some lovely views of the two villages and the water between them.

Eventually we got away on a narrow side road (with grass in the middle), only to find that blocked by a truck delivering fuel who had the little road blocked! Will we ever make to Baltimore in time? But, fortunately, he was nearly finished and soon moved off. A few minutes later we were on our way to a sunny Baltimore and a delicious lunch. 

Also on this trip:
Mizen Head Visit
Lunch with Chef Ahmet Dede at Customs House in Baltimore

Dede brings a refined and exotic touch to amazing West Cork produce in his new Baltimore venue.

Dede brings a refined and exotic touch to amazing

 West Cork produce in his new Baltimore venue.

Beetroot, and peach

Often it is the simple things that make the meal. Local beetroot, his own bread, even the ice-cream, all stood out during a delicious lunch at Baltimore’s Customs House where top Chef Ahmet Dede may be found these days, just a few steps from The Mews where he helped win a Michelin star in 2018.

Baltimore sunshine

It is all much simpler here in the sunny courtyard with a scattering of rustic tables, a barbecue set up on one side, a young and friendly staff, the menu on a blackboard, the renowned chef himself in and out helping and with time for a chat as was partner Maria. The food for lunch is simple, and simply superb. The sky is blue, the sun high above. On a midday like today, the indoor rooms are redundant.

Chicken mains

Could this get any better? Believe or not, it did. In a gesture that underlines the admiration that Dede has for the people here and they for him, we (all the customers) were invited to taste one of the wines that the management had been trying out in the shade with Fionnuala of Wines Direct. 

Love that Pet' Nat!

Maria, Ahmet’s business partner, told me they do that here and that they want good wines that their customers can afford, particularly by the glass. Our sample was that bit different, a delicious, light and easy-drinking Pet’ Nat, not from France but from Greece! What a lovely bonus. A friendly touch in a friendly and cool place.

They are offering a set menu of three courses on a Thursday, Friday and a Saturday evening at a set price of €50 per person.  The ingredients are sourced locally from the finest, eco friendly and passionate growers, producers, farmers, cheesemongers, foragers, fishmongers and butchers. The menu will constantly change according to the seasons and availability of ingredients, and may change again when hopefully the Covid time-limit is lifted!

We read our simple lunch menu from the blackboard (brought to our table). We both thought it was a bit warm for the Spiced Lentil Soup with sourdough (6.00) so gave it a skip. 

Mega dessert!

There were three salad options on the mains and CL went for the Beetroot, Feta and Peach offering (4 to 6 euro depending on size). The beetroot is at its best right now and Ahmet enhanced that fresh flavour even further with a few slices of peach and also some thin apple slices that were disguised by the red juice but also played a part on the palate. Very enjoyable dish indeed was the verdict! My Blog Chef though would have a little more peach, a little more feta, and a little less beet.

I felt like something more substantial, so picked the quarter rotisserie chicken with bulgar wheat, salad, potatoes and sourdough bread (17.50). Ahmet himself delivered our mains and told me I was having rice instead of the bulgar. He also said they were getting on well here and were very busy overall. So I busied myself with this superb dish, fantastic flavours and textures, reminding me a bit of the (obviously) memorable Farmyard Chicken lunch I had at Café Lavinal in Pauillac a few years ago.

Having skipped the starter, we were up for the dessert: brown butter ice-cream with honey sauce. We weren’t quite prepared for the size of it though, about as big as a wheel of Gubbeen. A very generous round indeed and the sauce was delicious as well. It may have been big but it was finished!

From the deli

We paid up (40 euro including tip) and then took a look at his deli. That has loads of tempting produce, including his salads, his magnificent sourdough, lots of pastries too. Much of the produce is local, including Gloun Cross butter for instance. 

We got a few things here and a bit of advice from Maria. With a Smoked Fish Dip from Sally Barnes and their own Roasted Red Pepper and Garlic Dip in the bag, we were told all we needed for a super lunch with the dips was some sourdough. Going down to get that together as soon as I finish up here!

Baltimore was looking splendid when we arrived (and when we left). So we had a good look around, mainly at the boats coming and going from the islands. The little square above the harbour was quite busy too with customers dining in the sun.

But we couldn’t linger any longer and soon we were heading for Skibbereen, Drimoleague and Dunmanway on the way home via the R585. I’d normally prefer the R584 but, with so many interesting stops on that one, we’d have had to make an overnight somewhere, like Gougane. Next time.

Also on this trip:
Mizen Head Visit
Overnight and Dinner at Celtic Ross

Baltimore in the sun

Mizen Head's Spectacular In All Kinds Of Weather

Mizen Head's Spectacular In All Kinds Of Weather

Always worth a look!

Fair weather or foul, or even foggy (as it was last Wednesday), spectacular Mizen Head is a must visit if you’re in the West Cork area. 

As with everywhere else, there are Covid19 restrictions in operation and you must wear a mask to gain entry to the indoor areas including exhibition rooms, café (takeout only) and so on. Because of Covid, the seasonal Mizen opening had been delayed and indeed their first day had been the one before our visit. In any case, they had it well organised (sanitisers, distance markings etc) and everything onsite went very well indeed.

Masked on Mizen

Speaking of masks, some visitors, who had decided against the full visit, asked to use the toilet. Two of a group near us had just other one mask between them. So the young lady went first, came out and handed the mask to her partner who then took his turn!

When we arrived it was quite foggy and that had put some people off. But we paid the reasonable fee and enjoyed our visit. We were feeling a little hungry after the two and a half hour drive* from the city. So we took a look at the pretty extensive menu outside and settled on a couple of well made and decently priced toasties.

Dunlough Bay

That set us up nicely to take on the fenced paths (with helpful hand-rails). The one up to the viewing point over rocky Dunlough Bay is the most worthwhile. Another, the first one really, and a much shorter one, gives you a fine view from above over the footbridge.

Then, carry on to the lighthouse itself over the bridge that was opened in 1993. On the way back, be sure and take the short path down towards a viewing point just below the bridge level. Here we saw a couple of seals frolicking in the water below. The final path for us was the longest, down to the rocks, with a view of the arch in the rocks and also quite a view back to the rocky point where the lighthouse stands. Tough enough coming back up!

Toormore

The fog had thinned out quite a bit as we departed and indeed a few minutes later we were passing above the lovely Barleycove beach and here the sun was blazing down and the beach looked very impressive from our viewing point. Car parks were more or less full and there were quite a few people on the sand. It is a large beach though.

Next stop was at the bay of Toormore. We have often seen its famous Altar Wedge Tomb (signposted) but the bay itself is an attractive one with very pleasing views when the sun is out. A notice here says people may have been worshipping in this place some 4,000 years ago. Good spot for a picnic, not there’s any table! 

Go to the last on the left!

On then to Schull. We had intended making a short stop here but the noted holiday village was packed. I made a couple of attempts to find a parking place before deciding to motor on. We were heading for the Celtic Ross Hotel in Rosscarbery, our base for the night. Having checked in, we took a walk by the water, watching the many different seabirds feeding here, before going back for an “excellent” feed ourselves in the hotel’s restaurant. More on that in a later post.

Barleycove beach on the way back from Mizen

* Should have been shorter than the eventual 2.5 hours but a few things conspired against us. We’ve been here at Mizen a few times and never had a problem. But our current Sat-Nav didn’t recognise the name, the fog didn’t help, and crucially the final sign to go left was missing. We went straight on there and ended up in the car park for Three Castles Head (another excellent visit, by the way). On the way back, we found the Mizen Head sign, well rusted, in the briars, the pole itself, with Goleen on top, was standing and in good condition!

The sign for Mizen in the briars. Didn't see it in the fog earlier on

Also on this trip:
Celtic Ross Hotel's A Superb Base for West Cork
Lunch with Chef Ahmet Dede at Customs House in Baltimore

Amuse Bouche

Mr Sugrue, of Sussex and Kilfinane.

In Ockenden’s mahogany-lined bar… a wine list the thickness of a novel has two whole pages on Sussex, I order a glass of Sugrue’s Wiston Estate, which has a fine mousse and rapier-sharp acidity, its steely modernity a surprisingly good fit for these self-consciously retro surroundings: two sides of Englishness, and not an overcooked legume in sight. When we sit down for dinner, that acidity will cut beautifully through the oil of  home-smoked mackerel with beetroot and horseradish…

 from The Wandering Vine by Nina Caplan (2018). Very Highly Recommended.

Drinks Theatre Summer Series: Cider, Perry and Mór

Drinks Theatre Summer Series: Cider, Perry and Mór

Colm McCan has been in touch with details of the first event of the Summer Series pop up drinks talks & tastings at the rustic Drinks Theatre at Ballymaloe.

"We are delighted to welcome Barry Walsh of Killahora Orchards Glounthaune East Cork - Rubert Atkinson of Longueville Beverages, Mallow, North Cork - Eric Bordelet Normandy represented by Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau

Saturday 25th July, 5pm, Drinks Theatre at Ballymaloe €15 pre booking essential eventbrite. Fully seated, socially distanced, restricted numbers." Link is here

Take the Stop Food Waste Online Challenge with Catherine Fulvio

Take the Stop Food Waste Online Challenge 

with Catherine Fulvio 

Funded by: 

Take the Stop Food Waste Online Challenge at home with Catherine Fulvio 

This summer, you are invited to join Catherine Fulvio and take the Stop Food Waste Summer Challenge at home. Local Authorities in Laois, Meath, Westmeath and Wicklow are joining forces with Catherine Fulvio and Stop Food Waste to offer everyone throughout the country a chance to get involved in this online version of the popular Stop Food Waste Challenge. Participants are supported to find out how much food they are actually wasting and some delicious ways they can prevent it. The challenge will run online for four weeks, beginning with the first video from Catherine Sunday July 19th at 8:30pm.

Each video will be followed up by a live Q&A session with Catherine via the Stop Food Waste Facebook page (@StopFoodWaste) each Wednesday at 2pm. Tune in to ask questions about recipes and ways to minimise food waste at home. 

Globally, over one quarter of the food produced in the world for human consumption is wasted and every year people in Ireland throw out over one million tonnes of food. The average Irish household is binning between €700 worth of food each year. Reducing food waste has been identified as one of the most effective things we can do to prevent climate change. With so many people interested in taking action around climate, managing food waste effectively is something that can be done from at home. Any action taken, big or small, can have a positive impact on the bigger picture. 

Participants of this online training will be in with a chance to win fantastic prizes, including passes to Ballyknocken Cookery School and signed copies of Catherine Fulvio’s cookbook ‘A Taste of Home’. 

Suzanne Dempsey, Environmental Awareness Officer at Laois County Council: 

“Laois County Council are actively promoting climate action and food waste is one of the most effective ways that an individual can reduce their carbon footprint. It not only helps that environment but can save you money too. Food waste has a significant impact on the environment given all the energy and resources consumed in producing, transport, packaging of that food which are all wasted when that food is thrown out. We are really excited to have Catherine Fulvio as the spokesperson for this Stop Food Waste Challenge. As one of Ireland's most well known TV chefs she has a huge amount of knowledge that she can impart to followers on how to reduce their food waste at home.” 

Catherine Fulvio: “Awareness is key to reducing food waste and as a long-time advocate for the reduction of food waste I am delighted to be working with four County Councils, Laois, Westmeath, Meath and Wicklow, on the reduction of food waste, especially at this time when we are all cooking and eating more at home. Each week a new video will be posted with a recipe from me and lots of tips and tricks to help you to reduce food waste in your home.” 

About Stop Food Waste 

Stop Food Waste is an EPA programme funded under the EPA National Waste Prevention Programme (NWPP). The NWPP has identified food waste as a priority waste stream to be addressed in the coming decade in line with our national commitments to the Sustainable Development Goals. Stop Food Waste works with householders, helping them to make the most of their food. The programme provides information and supports on all aspects of preventing food waste, from good planning and shopping practices through to correct storage and reuse options. 

The four key steps people can take to Stop Food Waste are: 

1. Know your food waste: Make a list of what you throw out over the next week, this will give you a better understanding where your habits produce waste so you know what to target for improvement. 

2. Planning and Shopping: Smarter shopping ensures that you don’t waste hard-earned money on food that goes in the bin. Plan your meals (including lunches at work), check the cupboards and fridge before you go, and use a shopping list. 

3. Cooking and Storing: Store food properly to make the most of what you have bought to keep food fresher for longer. The Stop Food Waste ‘A-Z of food’ 

contains tips and advice on how to store and cook various food types. Using leftovers for lunch not only helps reduce food waste, it will also save you money. 

4. Bin it better: Use the brown bin (or try home-composting) for the unavoidable food waste you do generate. A recent national study showed that almost 50% of household organic waste is still being disposed of in the “wrong bins”, i.e. recycling or black bin. 

Website: www.stopfoodwaste.ie 

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stopfoodwaste.ie/ 

Twitter: https://twitter.com/Stop_Food_Waste 

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/StopFoodWaste/ 

About LAPN 

The Local Authority Prevention Network, LAPN, is a cooperative programme between the Environmental Protection Agency’s led National Waste Prevention Programme and local authorities in Ireland. LAPN aims to build capacity in local authorities for promoting waste prevention at a local and grassroots level for the benefit of their regions. https://localprevention.ie/ 

press release

Irish whiskey distilleries reopening with a host of new visitor offerings

Irish whiskey distilleries reopening with a host of new visitor offerings

Taste the difference at Roe & Co

• IrishWhiskey360° campaign urges domestic tourists to ‘get back into the spirit’ by visiting local distilleries -

Bespoke whiskey and food tastings, intimate cocktail-making classes and collaborations with local restaurants are just some of what’s on offer from Irish whiskey distilleries and visitor centres as they re-open in the wake of Covid-19 restrictions.

Commenting on their reopening, William Lavelle, head of Drinks Ireland|Irish Whiskey said many distilleries and brand homes have introduced new visitor offerings and more intimate tourist experiences in the wake of Covid-19.  Drinks Ireland|Irish Whiskey have today launched their IrishWhiskey360° “Get Back Into The Spirit” campaign to promote Irish whiskey tourism.

“Smaller tour sizes, private tastings, new cocktail and food pairings, and collaborations with local businesses are just some of the ways our members are adapting their offerings as they reopen,” he said. “Safety is obviously a key focus for all our visitor centres – they have reduced their tour sizes and introduced all the necessary requirements to ensure social distancing can be adhered to.

“Irish whiskey visitor centres are not just for whiskey fans – they offer a cultural and historical experience, where visitors can learn about how whiskey is made, the history of the local area, taste  whiskey and sample local cuisine. Whether you’re a couple looking for a fun date experience, or a group of friends looking to catch up after a difficult few months, I would urge people to get back into the spirit of discovery and friendship, and support local brands, by including an Irish whiskey visitor centre in your summer plans.”

Some of the distilleries and visitor centres that are reopening with new offerings include:

• Clonakilty Distillery, Co. Cork, which is offering smaller, later tours on Friday and Saturday evenings to allow visitors to follow their tour with a meal in neighbouring restaurant, the Whale’s Tail.
• Kilbeggan Distillery, Co. Westmeath, which is running smaller, more intimate tours, and have developed a new ‘Bottle Your Own’ experience, where visitors can bottle their own 10 year-old single malt cask exclusive to Kilbeggan Distillery.
• Roe & Co. Distillery in Dublin, where groups of up to six people can experience a cocktail-making workshop, and visitors will have the opportunity to discover the five pillars of flavours in whiskey.
• Tullamore Dew, Co. Offaly, which will be offering intimate-sized tours, and whiskey and food pairings.

Gin School at Clonakilty Distillery

Other distilleries that opened or due to open shortly include:

• Teeling Whiskey Distillery, Newmarket, Dublin.
• Powerscourt Distillery, Co. Wicklow.
• Jameson Distillery, Bow Street, Dublin.
• Jameson Distillery, Midleton. Co. Cork.

• Pearse Lyons Distillery, James’s Street, Dublin.
• Skellig Six18, Cahersiveen, Co. Kerry.

The Irish whiskey industry had a successful 2019 with 143 million bottles (nearly 12 million cases) of Irish whiskey sold globally, a doubling of sales since 2010, along with a record one million people visiting Irish whiskey distilleries and visitor centres.

Further information on the Irish whiskey distilleries and visitor centres that are now open is available at: www.irishwhiskey360.com

Two Highly Recommended Reds From The Dordogne And The Lot

Bergerac

 Two Highly Recommended Reds 

From The Dordogne And The Lot

Château du Cèdre Héritage Malbec, Cahors (AOC) 2016, 13.5%,  €16.35

64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Gorgeous fruity aromatics welcome you to this mid to dark ruby wine from the south of France.  It has been produced biodynamically by Pascal and Jean-Marc Verhaeghe of Château Du Cèdre  who, according to importers Le Caveau, ”form one of the most passionate, hard-working and skilled team of winegrowers we have ever come across”. 

And that accolade seems well deserved when you taste this superb wine, the concentrated fruit flavours delivered in a silky smooth vinous package that excites the taste buds as it pleasurably passes on its way to an equally delightful finalé. 

Very impressive indeed. There is nothing extreme here, all’s restrained, the tannins are close to smooth, and harmony reigns. They have a winning formula but rather than going on auto-pilot after years of doing it, they pay attention to the details of each vintage. Most of the wine is tank aged, with 20% barrel aged (2 year old barrels) for 16 to 18 months and that has been nicely judged in this case. It is 95% Malbec with 5% Merlot added. Very Highly Recommended.

Numerous passages are made in the vineyard to ensure the perfect health, quality and ripeness of the grapes, and all the work is carried by hand as, since 1992, no chemicals have been used. The search for quality is pushed so far that almost each vine receives a special attention.

It is ideal at the table and food recommendations include grilled vegetables, a creamy polenta with simmered meat, matured cheese or with a moist, rich, nut roast with baked vegetables and roast potatoes.

Tour Des Gendres Bergerac Rouge (AOP) Merlot - Malbec 2016, 14%

64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This bright ruby is a blend of Malbec and Merlot. Aromas are very inviting indeed, red and dark fruit in there. On the palate it is fresh and juicy with a lovely lively acidity, a touch of sweet spice, smooth tannins and a good long finish as well. Another well made harmonious wine from Luc de Conti and Highly Recommended.

Le Caveau tell is that M. de Conti is a wonderful character and one of the finest wine-makers of his generation, he feels passionately for his wines, his 54-ha vineyard and his Bergerac region. Viticulture is biodynamic, the soil is nourished with seaweed and silica treatments to encourage microbial activity.

Passion yes, but patience also seems to be one of Luc’s qualities: “the more we learn how to tolerate the threats of the nature, by adapting ourselves to it and not the opposite, the more the biodiversity will naturally balance things out, the more the soil will give us, meaning our wines will be more authentic.…”

Wine has been made in Bergerac for thousands of years yet its wines often play second fiddle to neighbouring Bordeaux which, during the Hundred Years War, hindered the export of its rival's wines. I’ve been in the Dordogne area a few times and have always been happy to have a Bergerac red or white in my hand and wouldn’t feel at all put out if offered a Monbazillac instead of a Sauternes (with perhaps one exception!)