Wednesday, February 5, 2020

Barnabrow where Bowes sprinkles his Kitchen Magic


Barnabrow where Bowes sprinkles his Kitchen Magic
Lamb

Barnabrow means "Top of the Fairy Fort" and here, in the medieval-style banqueting hall, the Trinity Rooms, Head Chef Stuart Bowes continues to delight and surprise.

It is an ace place for weddings and family celebrations but did you know you may also enjoy a delicious Sunday lunch here? It was one of our first calls this year and just as enjoyable as always, thanks to the superb local produce, the very friendly front of house and the confident skills of the kitchen.

Stuart is quite a versatile chef and has been sharpening his baking skills in recent years. And we were reminded of that when we sat down as his sourdough, with Glenilen butter, arrived with the menus. We had to restrain ourselves with the bread as we knew there were three courses ahead! Even a fourth as the coffee (or tea) and petit fours are also included for a fairly priced twenty nine euro. And, by the way, there is also an excellent Children’s Menu (which can include half-portions of the adult for half the price).
Halibut

O’Connell’s Irish Beef is a regular here, a very attractive dish indeed, but this time my pick was the Roast Leg of Midleton Lamb, with baked beans, chorizo, crispy kale, thyme and lamb jus. The top notch meat was very much enhanced by the beans and the chorizo and a terrific jus.

Salmon


There were four mains offered in all including a vegetarian option featuring Sautéed Wild Mushrooms. CL likes her fish and her choice was the Baked Fillet of Atlantic Halibut with pea purée, crispy kale, and Parmesan cream. Another superb combination, faultlessly cooked and presented, and that cream was a key part of it.

While quality is more or less a given here, you won’t lack for quantity either! And our main were accompanied by a large dish of seasonal veg (including broccoli and cauliflower) and roast potatoes.
Blackpudding

Oak Smoked Salmon with Roast Garden Beetroot, caper dressing and vegetable crisps was CL’s starter. That, including those tasty crisps, got a big thumbs up. And it was a similar reaction from me for my Warm Clonakilty Black Pudding salad with Feta, crispy potato, apple, and tomato dressing, perfectly put together. Two very clean plates went back to the kitchen.

Also in the starter menu were a Whipped Ardsallagh Goats Cheese with pickled red onion and hazelnut dressing and a Spiced Parsnip Soup.
Crème Brulée

Would we have dessert? Of course. Just could not resist the Archer’s Crème Brulée with shortbread, a few raspberries adding colour to the temptation. And the Iced Parfait of Atlantic Sea Salt and Caramel, marshmallows and strawberry sauce, was another winner. Also on offer was a Chocolate and hazelnut brownie with Chantilly Cream and raspberry and A Selection of ice-cream and sorbet.

Parfait
We finished off in style with excellent coffee and a few petit fours, a meltingly gorgeous fudge and a sea salt and caramel chocolate. Oh, by the way, you may also buy these treats if you want to take a few home.

The word Barnabrow means "Top of the Fairy Fort" and is a magical, romantic wedding setting. The country house is situated on 35 acres perched high on a hillside overlooking the rolling countryside of East Cork with tantalising glimpses of Ballycotton Bay. 

Great for big events and smaller ones too, such as private parties and meetings. It has quaint and quirky accommodations in a mysterious labyrinth of buildings offering the perfect secret getaway and also has quite a few holiday cottages in the grounds. It has its own organic walled-garden, a big help to the kitchen with its seasonal supplies.

* After their seasonal break, Barnabrow will be serving Sunday lunch from next Sunday (Feb 9th).

Cloyne
Co. Cork
Tel: (021) 465 2534

Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Focus on Winter Reds plus some Valentine's tips, all part of O’Briens Wine February Promotion


Focus on Winter Reds just a small part of O’Briens Wine February Promotion.
And then there's Valentines!

Taking a look here at two of the winter reds, a small part of the O’Briens Wine February promotion. February is also the Valentine’s month and with that in mind, the sparkling wines are also in the frame and we have a few tips for you.

Tandem “Bolído” Valle de Yerri Navarra (DO) 2016, 13.5%, €12.71 (16.95) O’Briens Wine Promotion (3rd Feb to 8th Mar).

Dark ruby robe. Rich mix of aromas, red and black fruits. And so it continues through the rich and silky palate, fruit and spice in harmonious tandem. A lively acidity also and that should help it on the table. Excellent finish as well. Easy-drinking and Highly Recommended.

Tandem are based in northern Spain's Navarra region and produce some of O’Brien's most popular reds. This is an unoaked blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. The wine is aged on its lees in concrete vats for 24 months to give a richness to the body weight. The cool climate of the Yerri Valley helps maintain freshness and acidity in the wine.

The vineyard itself is at the foot of the Camino de Santiago in the Yerri Valley. Cool microclimate, sustainable farming and minimal intervention philosophy are all harnessed to good effect. The winery is built north-facing and partially underground to enable the use of a gravity system.

Ortas Côte Du Rhone (AOC) Réserve 2018, 14%, €11.21 (14.95) O’Briens Wine Promotion (3rd Feb to 8th Mar).

Bought some good stuff here in Rasteau, in this particular local coop, a few years back and, since then, have had a soft spot for wines from the Rhone village. This Côte du Rhone, a blend of Grenache (70%), Cinsault (20) and Carignan (10), is mid to dark ruby. Spicy red fruit and blackcurrant, a touch of pepper and smoke. Juicy and spicy also on the palate, some wild fruit in there too. Tannins close to smooth and a lovely warm finish. Highly Recommended. Try this young wine with roast chicken, lamb dishes and goats cheese and more.

Rasteau, about 40 minutes east of the Rhone, sits on a hill in the Vaucluse, one of the five departments of Provence and the climate is typically Mediterranean (meaning a high level of grape maturity). It is to the north of better known villages such as Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise. The village also has the distinction of making fortified wines (vin doux naturel) including a deep coloured red.

Love Bubbles
If you want to produce a bottle of bubbles on Valentine's night, you'll have a huge choice at O'Brien's. Some 16 wines have their prices cut, everything from Mito Frizzante (now at 8.95) to Bollinger Rosé (now at 68.00, that's with 15 euro off).

Rizzardi are one of the big names in Italian wine and their Frizzante Prosecco is available at 12.50 (two for 25). Step up to their Spumante (more bubbles) for 17.95. Lots of you though will probably plump for the romantically named Romeo & Juliet Spumante Rosé at a very reasonable 14.95.

One of my favourites is the Granzamy Brut NV Champagne.The only grape used in this stunning champagne is the black Pinot Meunier, leaving both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the other regular champagne grapes) out of this particular equation.


It has an inviting eye-catching light gold colour - the bubbles look even better! Aromas are light and fruity (strawberry). Light fruit on the palate also, refreshing and well-rounded, well balanced with a lip-smacking long finish with typical brioche aftertaste. Reduced by a fiver to 29.95.

And another sure to please is the Petaluma Croser Rosé NV, Adelaide HillsThis lovely bottle of bubbles is from Australia. 
Produced from Pinot Noir grapes, it comes in a gorgeous pastel salmon hue in which fountains of micro-bubbles constantly rise. There are delicate scents of strawberry and pomegranate. The palate is more intense than the nose, strawberry again and now cherry as well, and a pleasing refined finish. Now at 24.95 instead of 27.95. Enjoy the bubbles and the love!




Monday, February 3, 2020

Jacques. Perfect. Since 1980.


Jacques. Perfect. Since 1980.
Cod Fritters

Jacques, started by two sisters in 1980, quickly hit the culinary high notes and has remained top of the Cork charts. Also in the 80s, Fairground Attraction had a big hit with It’s got to be perfect. It could have been a tribute to the Barry sisters, Eithne and Jacque.

Too many people take second best
Well, I won't take anything less

We certainly knew we were on to a good thing when we headed to the venue recently. Not too sure which door we’d take though. Jacques are a bit unusual. In 1980, you entered through the door at 9 Phoenix Street. In recent years, they extended to Oliver Plunkett Street and the main door is at No. 23. Take either. Behind each is a warm welcome and excellent food. And drink.
Smoked Duck Salad

There’s a full bar here, with pints of Murphy’s and Heineken. You’ll also find craft beers, including those from the Cotton Ball, a local brewery, and local ciders Stonewell and Longueville are also supported. Irish spirits of course, including Bertha’s Revenge and Kalak. As are a variety of local food producers such as Skeaghanore, Toons Bridge, Ardsallagh, Ballinrostig Cheese, Goatsbridge, and Knockalara. Kilbrack Farm.

Cheers! Negroni
One thing I noted about the dishes at Jacques is that you get plenty of greens and veg on your plate. Unlike some places where you’d be lucky to get a see through sliver of carrot or a mini-cube of beetroot, too tiny for the tines. Kilbrack Farm are among their greens and vegetable suppliers and the produce is terrific. And just because they are generous with the veg, doesn’t mean they skimp with the meat or fish.

My mains is a perfect case in point: Fresh wild tranche of Turbot, hollandaise, green beans, olives and crispy potatoes. That tranche was really big, beautifully cooked, fresh and full of flavour. And the experience was enhanced no end by the sauce, potatoes, the olives, and the greens (which included more than the beans).  
Turbot

CL, disappointed that pheasant was off the menu at another restaurant recently, finally got her bird here: Roast pheasant wrapped in pancetta, potato and cranberry cake and red cabbage. Seasonal, savoury and a perfect (that word again) fit for a coolish January night.

One of my favourite cocktails is Negroni. I don’t always have the three ingredients handy at home so when I saw the mix of Campari, Vermouth and Gin, offered at the head of the menu, I ordered it and I was off to the perfect start. There’s a multi-page wine list here with a page of “pouring wines”, each by the glass. CL picked the Poggio Alla Luna Chianti (DOCG), aromatic, fruity, good acidity, and an excellent match with the game.
Pheasant

We were in early enough for the Early Bird but stuck with the main menu. Some great choices here, both of mains and starters. And we began with two beauties. CL’s was the Smoked Skeaghanore Duck Salad, Toons Bridge Mozzarella, plum dressing and spicy granola. Can’t recall seeing Mozzarella with duck before but it was a treat. 

I think mine was even better though! The Cod and Celeriac Fritters, with a Lime and Chili Dipping Sauce, is new to the menu but it is such a perfect combination of textures (there are some leaves there too) and flavour (that sauce is perhaps the catalyst) that I reckon it will be on offer for a long time to come.

We had been in quite early- the restaurant was getting busy but the level of service had never dropped. They don’t hang over your shoulder or anything like that but every now and then, there is a gentle query to see if everything is going well. “Perfect,” I replied each time!

Tel : +353 (0)21 4277387        Email : info@jacquesrestaurant.ie      
 Address : 23 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork


A Valentine’s Ale brewed in the heart of Ireland. 'Sexy Like A' Chocolate Strawberry.

A Valentine’s Ale brewed in the heart of Ireland

Head Brewer, Roger Rotheroe
Athlone brewer Roger Rotheroe has come up with a sweet potion for your Valentine.

Brand new for St. Valentine’s Day 2020 is a chocolate strawberry cream ale from Dead Centre Brewing in Athlone. Revelling in the name ‘Sexy Like A’, the quirky new brew is a one-off, keg-only limited edition from the innovative brewery.

The unusual name 'Sexy Like A', is a reference to a line from a film called 'Role Models' where Sean William Scott uses the phrase 'sexy like a chocolate strawberry'. Taking it a step further, this beer is 'Sexy Like A' Chocolate Strawberry Cream Ale.

“The Valentine’s Ale is the brain-child of our Head Brewer, Roger Rotheroe”, explains Liam Tutty who founded Dead Centre Brewing just a year ago, “It's a traditional American style beer called a cream ale which doesn't actually contain any cream - instead it's a mild, pale, light-bodied ale which is perfect for showcasing other flavours. In this instance we wanted to create a classic chocolate strawberry character.”
Love potion #???


The 4.8% ale was brewed on the Dead Centre pilot kit (which they use for testing and small batch brewing) in a very small batch of 75 litres. They added white chocolate and milk sugars to the boil to give a subtle undertone of chocolate as well as deliver a creamy mouthfeel to the beer. It contains hops such as Citra and Mosaic which were specially selected to pair with the 11kg of fresh strawberries that were also added to the beer.

‘Sexy Like A’ will be served in in the taproom at Dead Centre Brewing, Custume Quay, Athlone for Valentine’s night and will be served with white chocolate dipped strawberries. If you can’t make that, there is one single keg being distributed. That keg is headed to CarryOut Tyrrelstown in Dublin to be used on their Growler System (a takeaway beer filling system).

Sunday, February 2, 2020

Being Alive on The Night of Ideas. Raw, Naked and Living.


Being Alive on The Night of Ideas. 
Raw, Naked and Living. 
The panel (l to r): Nicolas, Pascal, Oliver, Anna and Colm

Here we are in Cork city centre, in the vaults of a 19th century wine warehouse, watching a French film about a bunch of “neo” winemakers at the foot of the eastern Pyrenees, close to the Spanish border. The showing is part of the ongoing worldwide initiative, Night of Ideas, spearheaded by Institut Français, that celebrates the constant stream of ideas between countries, cultures and generations, and the current theme is ‘Being Alive’.

The documentary is titled Wine Calling, though the Google translation, Wine Rising, of the French Le vin se lève, may be quite accurate as the 90 minutes are a lively celebration of the rise of the organic, biodynamic and natural wine movement. In a preview of the night, here,  I quoted wine importer Mary Pawle who was at last week’s Millesime Bio ( the annual organic wine showcase) in Montpelier. She first attended 20 years ago when there were just 40 stands; this year, there were close to 1,400, another indicator of the rise.

Director Bruno Sauvard followed this revolution in the South of France for over a year, from the harvest to the bottling, revealing a rising global movement for taste and sustainability. During a post-screening discussion in the Cellar Theatre, the film’s producer Nicolas Manuel, when asked about the terms used to describe these wines as a group, said he was somewhat jealous of the English terms RAW and Naked. The term “Living” was used in the film and I rather like that myself.
Steep in Banyuls. Not a place for lazy winemakers! 

Nicolas said he had “a good feeling” about the possibility of a film emerging at the initial meeting with the group in January 2016 but it did take the best part of a year to earn their trust. He reported that no money was made on this film but “it is something you want to share”. A bit like the wines then!

And it’s no joke being out here in the weather. Even though some people joke (a few turn it into a jibe) that natural winemakers are lazy. Early shots in the film, showing workers struggling on the steep slopes of a vineyard near Banyuls, quickly dispelled that notion. Here you have to be on top of it all the time, well for nine months anyhow, in the vineyard and later in the winery. “It’s like giving birth,” one  said.

Besides, you are living on the edge. No matter how good a winemaker you are. “Mastery isn’t a word we use around here…We adapt and improve each year… It’s a trial and error process.” They acknowledge that nature is the boss. And then there’s human error, illustrated when one of the group (they each have their own vineyard, by the way) poured the wrong grape juice into a blend. No way could he reverse that error. He’ll just have to wait and see how it turns out.
Ready to roll at the cellar

And, in the face of nature, for instance the constant battle between yeasts and bacteria, Jean-Francois Nicq, summed it up: “Doubt is crucial. Certainty a disaster.” Doubt keeps you on your toes!

Joe McNamee was the moderator of the discussion and he asked Dr Oliver Moore (UCC Centre for Cooperative Studies and ACR2020) for a general view on the environment now. Oliver admitted he was not “super-optimistic” but was encouraged by some positives including “the teenage revolution”. “A lot of hope but barriers are huge”.

He also said the reaction to the EU’s ACR2020, for smaller farmers and running “parallel to CAP, is interesting. “It’s a push for something different”. “The current system is wasteful, especially the fertiliser element”. Monoculture in wine “is not a positive - we need more biodiversity”. We had seen horses working in the vineyards in the film and Oliver remarked: “Horses can produce horses; tractors can’t produce tractors.” 
Horses working in North Cork in 2014

Kilkenny’s Le Caveau was founded by Pascal Rossignol and family in 1999 (time for a 21st celebration then!) to sell artisan wines (including organic). The man from Burgundy recalled his first taste of natural wines. “No going back. You really get hooked.” Though he admitted that the first trade tasting produced mixed reactions.

Colm McCan, who works with Pascal in Le Caveau, reminded us that as far back as the 80s, Myrtle Allen ran a restaurant in Paris, a restaurant that sold natural wines! He agreed with Oliver that changes can already be seen, eg the rising temperatures in Bordeaux and elsewhere. He also sympathised with the winemakers in the film who because of their methods find themselves outside of the appellation system and agreed with them that your name is more important than the appellation stamp. And you’ll see that Le Caveau stock quite a such few wines.

Anna Kopecká, the new Director of Programming at the Cork International Film Festival, the local organisers of the very enjoyable and informative evening, was also on the discussion panel. She was able to sympathise with the winemakers who only get one chance a year to get it right, “like the film festival”. She enjoyed the film: “Soundtrack was very special, not what you’d expect, and the film is a great way of understanding what’s going on in the world.”
Prades,  where the great Spanish cellist Pablo Casals lived in exile. See the "cello" at far side of roundabout.

The Film Festival, now in its 65th year, will be held in November. But this out-of-season screening may be followed by others before then as Anna told Joe there’s the possibility of a film club to screen "films like this" (not necessarily about wine). If I remember rightly, the festival did survive as a film club probably in the 70s, when the venue was the Cameo up by Collins Barracks. I attended quite a few there.

And that wasn’t the end of the evening. No shortage of volunteers to clear the chairs off to the side and we all queued up for a tasing or two of the wines made by M. Nicq. His Foulards Rouges (Red Scarves) Rouge and Blanc were the wines and the cheese was supplied by On the pig’s back. The red, a blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah, is a fresh and fruity delight, easy drinking. The cloudy white is just as pleasant, hard to pick between the two, and we didn't have to in any case!. 

These wines and similar are available at Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork. Indeed, you should also look out for Octobre, another light red from Foulards Rouges. I enjoyed it recently, details here.

By the way, I know quite a few Irish make their way down to that Catalan corner of France, just above the Spanish border. You may know Collioure or the holiday village of Argeles-sur-Mer. Well, leave the coast behind and about twenty minutes later you’ll arrive at Montesquieu-des-Albères where Jean-Francois makes these delicious wines.

Friday, January 31, 2020

Amuse Bouche


‘Tea!’ Mrs Howard pushed the door open with a rattling tray. I went to help her, shoving the folder at Derwent so he could hide it. Her eyes were red, up close, and her face was swollen but she smiled at me…
We let her fuss over us, choosing biscuits from the plate she offered, making conversations about… the house and her art. Eventually, reluctantly, Derwent put his mug on the table.
‘Mrs Howard, I need to ask about the letters. Did they come from the prison?’

from Cruel Acts by Jane Casey (2019). Very Highly Recommended.

Thursday, January 30, 2020

Time to go fishing folks! Head to Goldie

Time to go fishing folks! Head to Goldie
Monkfish

The much loved salmon, popularly known as Goldie, swims forever on top of the tower of St Anne’s in Shandon, in one of the most elevated positions in Cork City. The fish and ale restaurant named Goldie, in the flat of the city, is already in an elevated position when its comes to matters fish on the plate. Our first meal there a few months back was impressive, this latest even more so.They appear to be getting into their stride. Who knows what heights this creative kitchen will hit in the seasons ahead.
Aishling

Lots of hard work here too. After all, they get the whole fish in here every morning. But Head Chef Aishling Moore is relishing it, the head to tail ethos, the challenge that each delivery poses, plus the freedom to create that it also makes possible. “I’m living the dream,” she said on our latest call.

Cork's Goldie Fish (Shandon) and Goldie Angel (Saint Fin Barre's)

The Goldie Menu has three main sections: Snacks, Small Plates, and Mains. You also have sides and desserts of course. And then there’s the beers, all from their own brewery across the road in Elbow Lane, ales formulated by brewer Russell to “specifically suit the foods that we offer”, three on draught, two in bottle. They do have a matching wine list of course and, on the night, had some interesting special offers on.
Snacks

You can expect to see quite a range of fish on the menu. On our visit last week, squid, prawn, ling, oyster, mussel, salt fish brandade, plaice, ray, and monkfish were all in the mix to some degree or other. No meat here but vegetarians are catered for at all stages including a mains of Piccalilli Panisse, Coolea Cheese sauce, and kale.

We started with beers (Elbow Lager and Jawbone Ale - all their beers are named after Cork lanes) and a couple of snacks. The Chickpea Wafer, fennel and Coolea Cheese, was a delicious wee bite but my favourite was the Salted Ling fish finger, with gherkin ketchup.
Oysters

CL continued on the vegetarian path with a small plate of Beetroot, gherkin ketchup, yogurt and horseradish. Absolutely superb, so good I persuaded her to share. She did well too though as she was full of praise for my Tempura of Oysterhaven Oysters, with ponzu sauce. 

That sauce was magic and indeed I thought the combination well capable of converting oyster haters and when I mentioned that to our server, she said she’d seen it happen here. So if you are a bit doubtful about oysters and you find yourself in Goldie, do go for it. Other small plates on the night included Steamed mussels, creamed watercress and cider and also Salt Fish Brandade, seaweed cracker, pickles.
Beetroot

Now, for the main event. We were both tempted by the Whole Roast Plaice, bok choi, café de Paris but that will have to wait for another night! Instead we went for the Ray and Monkfish dishes and a delicious side (shared) of Sea Salt shoestring chips.

Sauces and relishes here are key - like the ponzu earlier. Now it was turn of a well-judged red wine sauce to work its magic with the Pan Fried Ray and the parsnip. And superlatives too for the oyster velouté  and fennel that enhanced the Pan Fried Monkfish. Umami on the double.
Ray

And those thin little chips were also top notch. Other tempting sides available included Chinese cabbage squid, peanut and tahini dressing and also Roast cauliflower and hazelnut brown butter.

Just a short dessert list. We had tried, and enjoyed, the Killahora Orchard apple port Panna cotta on the previous visit and this time picked the equally enjoyable Blood orange posset, brown butter Madeleine, white chocolate and tarragon ganache. Quite a delightful plateful that we shared.

Then time to say goodbye to the very friendly and efficient crew here. But we did have a peek at the upstairs room that has just been opened for service. Downstairs, it is very bright and modern. Upstairs, there is more by way of decor, lots of foliage. Will definitely take the pressure off downstairs at weekends and would also be a lovely room for a midweek party (up to 15 people or thereabouts). 

Party or no party, go fishing folks! Head to Goldie.

128 Oliver Plunkett Street (opposite Market Lane)
Cork
Open 5pm, Tue - Sat.
+353 21 239 8720

Wednesday, January 29, 2020

Two Outstanding Reds from Yecla and Valpolicella


Two Outstanding Reds despite contrasting growing seasons in Yecla and Valpolicella
Drought was a regular feature in Spain’s Yecla in 2016, resulting in very low yields, but that in turn led to increased concentration in the Monastrell grapes. No complaints about the season in Valpolicella in north east Italy and the results were excellent. Here, the wine-maker availed of a version of the Ripasso method to enhance concentration. And so we have two excellent reds for you to enjoy.

Bodegas Castano “Hécula” Monastrell Yecla (DO) 2016, 14%, €17.99

Baggot Street Wines; McHugh’s Off Licence; Red Island Wine Co Ltd; World Wide Wines; Martins Off Licence; JJ O’Driscoll; The Wine Centre; Drink Store; Clontarf Wines; Fresh The Good Food Market; wineonline.ie

Just a few info bits and pieces for you…
“Hécula” is the name of the wine and it is produced by the Castano family from the Monastrell grape in Yecla ( a small wine DO in the north of Murcia, about an hour inland from Alicante). The grape is known as Mourvedre in France and the fruit used here is from 40-year old vines.

Dark intense ruby, legs slow to clear. Inviting aromas of blueberry and raspberry. Not at all shy on the palate, soft and elegant with fresh juicy raspberry flavours, a hint of the oak too, quite concentrated. A long and substantial finish. This wonderfully harmonious wine is Very Highly Recommended.

Drought was a regular feature in Yecla in 2016, resulting in very low yields and that probably accounts for the extra concentration of flavour. After fermentation, the wine was aged for six months in oak barrels of which 50% were new. The oak used was 80% French and 20% American. It is untreated and unfiltered so you expect to see some sediment. It may be best to decant. I didn’t take my own advice but, as it happened, there was no sediment.




Pic via Allegrini Facebook
Allegrini Palazzo Della Torre Rosso Veronese (IGT) 2016,  13.5%, €27.99

Clontarf Wines; 64 Wine; Blackrock Cellar; McHugh’s Off Licence - Malahide Road; Mitchell & Son Wine Merchants; Thomas`s of Foxrock; Jus de Vine; Whelehans Wines; Drink Store; Seamus Foley T/A Cashel Wine Cellar; Red Nose Wine Ltd; La Touche Wines 4U; Martins Off LicenceWineonline.ie



Mid to dark ruby is the colour of this blend of 70% Corvina/Corvinone, 25% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese. Quite aromatic with cherry prominent and some scents too of chocolate/coffee. Juicy and darkly flavoursome, velvety smooth with refreshing acidity. Harmonious all the way with silky tannins in a long and richly satisfying finish. 

Back in 2002 when Vino Italiano was first published, its authors described  Allegrini as one of the biggest names in Valpolicella. They added: “the value-priced Palazzo della Torre (which includes 30% dried grapes) is a fruity and fun Valpolicella with more meat than most.” Still holds true today and this 2016 is Very Highly Recommended.

The Modern History of Italian Wine praises the “fruit philosophy” of the Allegrinis, first espoused by Giovanni, “a true innovator of the 1960s”, a philosophy based on preserving the fruit from the vine to the bottle.  They are based in Fumane, with Lake Garda about 20 minutes to the west and Verona less than 30 to the southeast.

Nowadays Franco Allegrini (of the new generation) uses the modern version of the traditional 'ripasso' technique for Palazzo della Torre, drying a proportion of the grapes in the 'Terre di Fumane' drying centre, to intensify “the character of this vineyard”. And, the 2016 season and the result here “was one of the best ever, outstanding for its great balance and elegance”.

Palazzo della Torre pairs effortlessly with various Italian dishes, above all risottos, especially those flavoured with saffron, porcini mushrooms and pork; classic dishes such as pasta with Amatriciana and Carbonara sauces, baked lasagna, gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese and walnuts; grilled meats and roasts. It also excels when matched with Parma ham and fine-cured Zibello pork loin, as well as medium-matured cheeses, especially Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan), Pecorino and Monte Veronese. Anything Italian by the looks of it!