A Couple of Grand Wines from Bordeaux. Pomerol and Lussac-Saint-Emilion.

A Couple of Grand Wines from Bordeaux.

Pomerol and Lussac-Saint-Emilion
plus news from Supervalu and Tindal

I got some excellent views over the Saint-Emilion vineyards from the top of the
 Bell Tower of the Monolithic Church 

Château Franc Maillet Pomerol (AOC) 2015, 14.5%, €48.00, O’Briens Wine

This beautiful Château Franc-Maillet Pomerol red wine is a blend of Merlot (80%) and Cabernet Franc (20%) and 2015 is regarded as a very good year in the area. Try with game stew, a rib of beef, mushroom dishes or middle-aged cheese.

It is a deep ruby, a little lighter at the rim, legs slow to clear.  Aromas are opulent, and complex, cherries and blueberries, vanilla too. Smooth and with a great depth of fruit, some spice too and the tannins have quite a grip, a strong character overall, fresh and forthright all the way through to the sumptuous and lingering finish. Would be nice to try this again in four or five years time!

This family-owned estate are noted for consistently producing a classic expression of the Pomerol terroir and this is no exception. Very Highly Recommended.

The Pomerol vineyard, with Saint-Emilion to the east, is barely ten minutes away from Lussac but those nine kilometres mean that the price is more than doubled! Why? The World Atlas of Wine: “What grows here is the gentlest, richest, and most instantly appealing of red Bordeaux.” Much of this has to do with the terroir and the producers and the Pomerol wines are always expensive. 

Don’t despair though. Lalande-de-Pomerol is just to the north and produces excellent wines. Just read there that the Wine Buff (with shops in Ireland and one in Saint-Emilion in Rue de Marché) sells La Faurie Maison Neuve at just over 30 euro. Note to myself: should be worth a try!

* Watch out also for offers. I got my Pomerol for €42.00 in O'Briens Wine Fine Wine Sale in December.

Château des Landes Lussac “Vieilles Vignes” Lussac-Saint-Emilion (AOC) 2014, 13%, €19.35

 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This “Vieilles Vignes” is a blend of old vines Merlot (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%),  and Cabernet Franc planted on limestone and clay soils in Lussac. Lussac (where Merlot is the dominant variety by far) is the most northerly of the St Emilion satellites. 

The other three satellites of St Emilion are Montagne, Puisseguin and St Georges. 

“At their best, the wines from these areas are every bit as good as a Saint-Emilion grand cru,”  wrote Clive Coates in 2004.The four satellites are allowed append the coveted Saint-Emilion to the village name.

Colour of the 2014 is a deep dark ruby. Dark (plummy) aromas, quite intense, drift of spice. Rich and harmonious on the palate, mid to full bodied, flavours of lighter (red) fruit, vanilla, fresh acidity, rounded tannin, and a lingering finish. It may well be from one of the satellites (not always highly regarded), but this is well-made, well-balanced, and well worth seeking out. Very Highly Recommended.

Château des Landes is family owned with three generations of experience, located right in the heart of the appellation, 50 km northeast of Bordeaux. “Only a small quantity is produced, vinified and then aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. The resulting precious wine is consistently rated highly at all competitions. Serve at 18°C as a meditation wine, or pair with roast game, vegetable dishes with creamy sauces or aged cheese and nuts.”  

A very small of amount of sediment noted. So you may wish to decant. While removing sediment is the usual reason for decanting (old wines in particular), you’d do well to decant young wines, even those under screw cap. Indeed, the current edition of the World Atlas of Wine declares “.. experience shows that it is usually young wines that benefit most”.  

When decanting young ones, give them plenty of air (by using a container that maximises aeration). That will really wake them up and you’ll have a better experience. Even a few minutes of aeration makes a huge difference in the aroma and flavour of a wine. When your decanter, fancy or plain, is not in use, be sure to cover the opening with a cover (eg muslin) to keep the dust out. And don’t ever use soap to wash it out.

For the current Supervalu offers (including a tempting Gigondas wine of the month) and a Barolo opportunity from Tindal, please click here.

Taste of the Week. Kanturk Pudding from McCarthy Butchers

Taste of the Week

Kanturk Pudding from McCarthy Butchers

The McCarthy family of Kanturk have been making blackpudding for generations. For the past decade or so, they’ve been picking up awards for it, including gold from the La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Goûte Boudin in 2010 and 2013.

It’s a regular here and so I knew I was on a good thing when I picked up a pack in Bradley’s (North Main Street, Cork) just before Christmas. One of those “just in case” purchases I made at the time - just in case we got fed up of the turkey.

The turkey, truth to tell, went down well but still the pudding was a welcome alternative when it made its appearance. Full of flavour as always and our Taste of the Week. 

Ingredients for this rich and smooth pudding include Bacon trim, spices, seasoning, rusk, blood, oatmeal, water, onion and pearl barley. We used it with a couple of fried eggs as a snack but you’ll see lots of variation in the restaurants. 

If you’d like something more adventurous at home, then check out this recipe on McCarthy’s website for BLACK PUDDING WITH PEARS FLAMBÉ AND ROSEMARY CINNAMON CARROTS

McCarthys of Kanturk
Main Street
Kanturk
Co. Cork

Two French Whites To Consider

Château du Coing de Saint Fiacre L’Ancestrale Cru Communal Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2010, 12%, €16.65 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Colour is more intense than your usual Muscadet,  brighter also. Aromas are fruity and complex. Had been a little worried about the age here but no need. This is quite superb, rich and yet crisp and, as Le Caveau hints, could go head to head with a great Chablis or a Grand Cru Riesling. A delicious discovery for me with a superb finish, a touch of minerality on the lips.

The ageing, which includes 42 months on lees, has no doubt had the desired result in this gorgeous apricot and melon flavoured perfectly balanced wine. One to be sipped and enjoyed and Very Highly Recommended.

There are a number of extra hurdles to be jumped before this wine is granted the final label, including one 60 days before bottling. The bottles received a certification number and each bottle is numbered.  As far as I can see from the label, my numbers are 13 and 13408. 

Because of its planned maturity, this is now much more than the companion of just seafood and shellfish. The makers suggest it pairs perfectly "with a gastronomic food as sea or river fish but also white meats as chicken and some cheeses. A tasting appetizer is also very nice, the wine is served chilled to 12 °C.”

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Beaujolais Blanc (AOC) Chardonnay 2017, 13.5%, €23.00 Mary Pawle  

Spanking clean light gold colour. Aromas are somewhat complex with citrus prominent. It is pleasingly smooth on the palate, rounded fruit and dry to the finish. Perfect, they say, with seafood or a cream chicken.

The fruit is from young vines from the Pizay area, grown on soils composed mainly of clays. Drink now; or consider keeping as it has the potential of keeping for 3 to 5 years.

Given the Beaujolais bias toward Gamay, it is not surprising that Beaujolais Blanc is little-known. Just two per cent of the crop is Chardonnay and indeed, much of the Chardonnay grown here in northern Beaujolais, where the Macon overlaps Burgundy, are sold under the better-known Macon appellation.

If you like Maconnais, as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald did (A Moveable Feast), then you’ll have no problem with this. Highly Recommended.

Trident Hospitality Hard to Beat. Surrender's Sweet.

Trident Hospitality Hard to Beat. 

Surrender's Soft and Sweet.

Always a warm welcome at the Trident Hotel in Kinsale. It is the stop for us when we visit the harbour town and not just because the hotel has one of the most spectacular locations in the country. That welcome, from manager Hal McElroy and his team, is so friendly, so helpful. Makes one inclined to come again. A really lovely place to stay, good rooms, good food, and just about four minutes from the very heart of the town.

And of course I’m not downplaying the scenic location. Always love the view when I walk into a room here. The hotel consists of two wings at right angles to the main block and has been designed so that each room has a view of the water, some towards the town and port, some straight out across the bay and some over the fishing harbour and James Fort. Besides, the hotel is just a few minutes walk from the lively town centre with its restaurants (including the Michelin starred Bastion), boutiques, bars, and bookshops. It is the gateway to West Cork and also the first (or last) stop on the Wild Atlantic Way.

Relax

Lots to visit here, most notably Charlesfort. But don’t forget the wine museum in the smaller Desmond Castle. One of the new attractions is the Old Head Signal Tower and Lusitania Museum, a community effort alongside the famous Old Head. Good stories here and also splendid views over the ocean and the land, especially over the Old Head itself.

Usually, Hal and company arrange a bit of sun, but this time the December evening was uncompromising though at least it stayed dry on our short walk to and from the fabulous Finns Table for dinner. On check-in we were happy to hear we had been upgraded. Needless to say we enjoyed our stay in the Ringrone Suite with its extra space and facilities (including your own Nespresso machine). No problem catching up on the internet with a faultless Wi-Fi connection.

The Trident's Foredeck Bar for fair-weather sailors and sippers

Supporting local

The smallest rooms (and they are not really small at all) are the Superior. These have just a shower but no bath. But  they share much the same outstanding decor as the others, the colours of the fabrics and the walls, all calm and soothing. While walking along the corridors, I am always struck by the restful colour combination, mainly white and grey on the walls, blue and grey in the carpet, and a little extra colour in the curtains. All very peaceful throughout.

In all there are 75 refurbished bedrooms including an executive wing comprising 30 rooms and a penthouse floor of 9 luxury suites, all with breathtaking views. The hotel has a private marina, onsite parking and a wide range of state of the art facilities for conferences and is an unforgettable venue for family occasions.

How about a pre-dinner drink? Just stroll down to the Wharf Bar and take your pick. It is here that most of the daily dining, including dinner, takes place. There is excellent service here too by the way. The bar has a nautical feel – designed by local yacht designer, Rob Jacob, to resemble elements of an old sailing ship; it is complete with portholes, decking, vaulted panel & beam ceiling and rope-wound galleon masts. It is a friendly informal place and as well as eating and drinking, you’ll have the chance to watch golf or football in one or two corners.

Nearby Sandycove

Evening view from the restaurant

We have enjoyed a few dinners in the main restaurant, Pier 1, where you’ll see boats and even a ship or two just outside. Don’t forget to study the collection of Knuttle on the walls. It is also where’ll you’ll take breakfast. They lay on quite a spread here, with real cheese (Gubbeen, Carrigaline for example) and ham included. Loads of fruit too, plus breads and cereals. And a choice of hot dishes of course, including the full Irish (and any variation you wish) and a fish option. I choose the pancakes on this occasion and certainly enjoyed them while CL tucked into her Eggs Benedict (eggs and bacon from local producers).

And if the manager has missed you when checking in, you’ll almost certainly see him at Pier One for breakfast. Here he moves around and chats to everyone and anyone, wondering how they got on the day before, their plans for the day ahead, and if he can help! You don’t see that level of service in too many places!

Amuse Bouche

‘The kitchen is just about the worst place a woman can be - whether or not she happens to be an artist. I think the same applies to any woman with half a cup of pride. Spend time in the kitchen and you’ll be kept there. I see it all the time, women who slave after their husbands - husbands who have little or no time for them, I might add. You step into the kitchen and you stay there. A kitchen slave for the rest of your life.’

from The Narrow Land by Christine Dwyer Hickey (2019). Highly Recommended.

Finns' Table. Real Food. Real People.

Finns' Table. Real Food. Real People.

Pork Belly starter

This pair of phrases indicate how I feel about Finns’ Table in Kinsale. I want to go. I don’t want to leave.

Julie (front of house) and husband John (chef) score on so many levels. Aside from the excellent food and quality drink here, it is those broad welcoming smiles. And all genuine. Nothing fake here, either on your plate or on their faces.

And we got that marvellous warm welcome when we visited just before Christmas. A chat ensued about the year that had flown by since we’d had eaten here and about their 2-week break in the USA from which they’d just returned.

Breads

Then as we studied the menu, including the long wine list, Julie warmed us up with a Mulled Wine Bellini, reinforcing the feel-good feeling. Oh and there was also a very tasty amuse bouche of ham croquette and garlic mayo. They had a pair of lovely breads (mini-loaves) too, one based on treacle, the other on potato, with hummus and butter on the side.

The food here is locally sourced. They are on a winner with the beef and lamb as that’s supplied by John’s parents, butchers in Mitchelstown. Fish and seafood comes from local West Cork trawlers, mussels and oysters from Jamie of Haven Shellfish just down the road in Oysterhaven. Free range eggs are from Beechwood Farm while Clona Dairies supply the milk and cream.

John Dory

Quite a choice of starters here, including those oysters in varying presentations. There was a slight hiccup with one of our requested starters as Chef John wasn’t happy that the Treacle and West Cork Whiskey marinade had yet completed its transformation of the smoked salmon. It would be fine in another day or two but not just yet! Just goes to show the level of detail and professionalism here in this kitchen, nothing is left to chance. And the rest of the meal confirmed it.

My Slow Cooked Pork Belly and Pudding Bonbons (€12), with cider and port and corn Salsa was absolutely superb, one of the very best examples I’ve come across, just full of flavour and a pleasure to eat. And there were similar words from the other side as CL enjoyed the Spiced Beef Carpaccio (12), crispy quail eggs, pickled mushroom and horseradish crême fraiche.

There was a little humming and hawing about the wine; because of our main dishes, one of us was tending towards white, the other towards red. A compromise was reached by choosing one of the house reds, the Vina Casablanca Cefiro Pinot Noir (28.00). It proved very versatile indeed, dangerously drinkable too and at a good price. And that sufficed until we switched to a glass of Sauternes for the dessert.

Before that though, there were the main courses. Always on the lookout for seasonal, so my choice here was the Pan Roast Venison Loin (30), with roast celeriac and spiced lentils. A stunning plateful that needed little adornment.

CL was tempted by what looked like a terrific Turbot offering but in the end went for the Pan Roast Fillet of John Dory (33.00), creamed leeks, Crab bisque sauce and beetroot salsa.  That crab and beetroot worked a treat and indeed the plateful was another delicious delight on the night. Main courses are served with oven roast root vegetables and potatoes.

Baked Alaska (left) with Mango and Orange cake (10.00) at the heart of it was our dessert, a lovely foil for the glass of Sauternes. The rich wine was slowly sipped as the enjoyable meal in this warm elegant appealing place  came to an end. And soon we stepped from the warmth inside to the dark cold of the narrow street outside, quickly increasing the pace to reach the Trident, another welcoming Kinsale hospitality establishment and our base for the night. 

If you are in Finns' Table between 6.00 and 6.30pm any evening, you may avail of the Early Bird offering: three for €37.50.

Finns Table  

6 Main Street

Kinsale

Co. Cork

021 4709636

info@finnstable.com

The Franciscan Well hosts the First Beer Festival of 2020

press release

Kate Clancy of Franciscan Well has just been in touch to say the North Mall brewpub will be running 5 key Irish beer/spirit festivals. "These will include, The Cask & Strange Brew Festival, The Easter Beer Festival, The Fem-Ale Festival, The October Beer Festival and The Espresso Martini Festival brought by MONK our cocktail bar. Of course first up is our Cask & Strange Brew Festival which celebrates cask conditioned ales from a variety of Irish brewers and is the only one of it's kind in Ireland."

The Franciscan Well hosts the First Beer Festival of 2020

The Cask Ales and Strange Brew Festival

30th of January to the 1st of February

Now in its 8^th year, the Franciscan Well’s Cask Ales and Strange Brew Festival is the first beer gathering of 2020, running from Thursday the 30^th of January to Saturday the 1st of February.

The festival celebrates cask conditioned ales from a variety of Irish brewers and also show cases their growing experimentation & their ability to challenge the norms of brewing by hosting a range of special brews using curious and interesting ingredients.

‘Cask beer has become increasingly more popular, the beer is much lower in carbonation and is served at room temperature which allows the beers full flavour to shine through’ says Kate Clancy, Marketing Manager of the brewpub.

Lough Gill, Dot Brew, West Cork Brewery & 9 White Deer are just some of the breweries at the festival with over 20 cask engines rotating a range of brews. All breweries attending will also compete in the Beoir Cask Competition which will be judged by the national beer enthusiasts club on the Saturday 1^st.

Because of the successful collaboration between Franciscan Well & Jameson in creating Caskmates there will be special whiskey & beer pairing session on Saturday 1^st at 4pm. ‘ We will conduct the tasting in the very room where Caskmates was born, including a boiler maker with  two whiskeys and two beers’ . This session is free but arrive early to avoid disappointment’ Says Kate.

As always festival goers will be able to enjoy freshly made wood fired pizzas from Pompeii, sip on the Well’s new cocktails from the MONK cocktail bar and kick back to some live entertainment.  

The Franciscan Well, based on North Mall will play host to many key beer festivals though out the year, such as their annual Easter Beer Festival, October festival and their newly added Fem-Ale Festival which celebrates women in drinks industry.

Admission is free and doors open at 5pm on Thursday 30^th and 1pm on 31^st & 1^st.

                                                             

Obama's Wine. And Semplicemente Amazing!

A President's Wine From A King's Field. 

And An Italian Master Keeps It Simple.

via Pixabay

Adega Cachin Peza do Rei Ríbera Sacra (DO) 2017, 13.5%, €18.95

64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Barack Obama, no less, gave this very wine, a major boost a few years back when, thanks to his Galician wine guru, the Cachin Peza do Rei was chosen for the toast at a gala in Washington, D.C., to honour the legacy of the Hispanic community in the United States, according to the Daily Beast article. 

The demand for Peza do Rei bottles has skyrocketed ever since. “Obama’s wine” has been selling out. The grape is the relatively unknown Mencia, a red grape native to the north-west Spain. It thrives in this warm but wet corner of the country and is often compared to Pinot Noir.

Mid to dark ruby is the colour of this 2017. Relatively intense aromatics, mainly red fruit, herbal notes also. Light-bodied, it is smooth and juicy on the palate, flavours of redcurrant and cranberry, refreshing acidity too, a lovely minerality also, and goes on to finish well. This light dry red is Very Highly Recommended.

Le Caveau tell us this Peza do Rei is fermented and aged in stainless steel and sees no oak at all. “Try with local chorizo stew, cured meats, even the local pulpo a la galena (octopus with paprika and olive oil) is a great match.” Another source recommends it with “tomatoey meat stews”.

As well as the assumed presidential nod of approval, there is something of an earlier (much earlier) royal link. Peza do Rei is a medieval walled vineyard and woodlands estate taking its name from the Kings of León, for whom it served as an income source and private hunting retreat.

Bellotti Semplicemente Vino Rosso 2016, 14%, €21.95

64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

A couple of  months back, in the Gallery Wine Bar in Westport,  I was enjoying this red from the late Stefano Bellotti’s winery in Piemonte. My rosso was down to its last drops  as owner Tom passed and, before I knew it, he had topped me up generously with the last bit in the bottle. That’s the kind of place this Gallery is. Generous, friendly. Just like the wine.

This red blend is mid to dark ruby in colour. Ripe red fruits in the aromas, herbal notes as well, even a hint of undergrowth (someone here mentioned dirty boots!). Vibrant and friendly on the palate, tarty fruit flavours prominent. Fresh and juicy too with a spicy dry (very dry!) finish. A simple country wine to enjoy with charcuterie and or cheese, or just as an aperitif. Very enjoyable indeed and Highly Recommended.

Bellotti Semplicemente Vino Rosso is a natural red wine that is a blend of Barbera (80%) and Dolcetto, produced by Cascina delgli Ulivi. The white Semplicemente  is terrific too. Check it out here. 

Cascina delgli Ulivi, according to the website, is a family winery established on a farm. Stefano Bellotti was the person who ran it until he died of cancer in 2018. He is considered one of the fathers of biodynamics in Italy: He started making natural wines in 1977 and cultivated his vineyards following biodynamic principles since 1984. Currently, it is his daughter Ilaria who has taken over the reins from her father and seeks to preserve and transmit his legacy. They suggest pairing the red with, Rice with meat, Roasts nd as Aperitif; serve at 16 degrees.

Taste of the Week. Skeaghanore Confit Duck Legs

Taste of the Week

Skeaghanore Confit Duck Legs

I’m sure most of you had lots of good food over the Christmas and New Year. And so did we. But one dish stood out and the basis for it was a pair of succulent Skeaghanore Irish Confit Duck Legs, bought in Bradley’s, North Main Street, Cork, as a “just in case” filler, just in case we didn’t have enough already!

These multi-award winning Skeaghanore Confit duck legs have taken the hassle out of cooking duck. The Hickey family have slow cooked the generously meaty legs for 5 hours and all you need to do is reheat! See Skeaghanore.ie for stockists.

We kept it simple, roasted it for 15 minutes and served with “Sweetheart” cabbage, roasted potatoes (cut at angles and coated with duck fat), and the jus from the duck itself. A magnificent Taste of the Week and one that will soon be repeated here.

Hickey's breed the Pekin duck "... because we live so close to Roaring Water bay, the salt air effects adds to the texture of the duck giving a salt marsh flavour. Our duck is succulent, tender and has a high meat yield."

Skeaghanore Duck

Skeaghanore East,

Ballydehob, West Cork,

Ireland

 Phone: (028) 37428

 Mobile: (087) 2333184

 Email: info@skeaghnore.ie

Not the usual suspects: Vermentino and Verdejo

Not the usual suspects: Vermentino and Verdejo

When most of us think of white wine, the Vermentino and Verdejo grapes, don't immediately spring to mind. But they are, now, favourites of mine and the two below are excellent examples. Vermentino is from Italy, one of its most distinctive grapes and thrives in coastal areas such as Sardinia's rocky Gallura region. By the way, there is a very rare red Vermentino.

Verdejo is best known through the delicious wines that come from Rueda in Spain though our example below is from neighbouring Castilla (a region where Wine-Searcher.com suggests it is indigenous). "Wherever the variety's origins, Rueda is its undisputed home now; the variety is extremely successful there, and is grown almost nowhere else in Europe."

Cantina Mesa, `Giunco` Vermentino di Sardegna (DOC) 2018, 13.5%, €24.99.

Baggot Street Wines

Cinnamon Cottage

Wineoline.ie

Light gold is the colour, light and bright. Quite intense aromas of exotic fruit, scents of blossom too. A terrific and immediately noticeable balance of fruit and acidity on the palate, crisp and delicious right through to a lip-smacking finish. Very Highly Recommended.

This is 100% Vermentino. A beautifully balanced white with good body, and scents of tropical fruit backed by floral impressions. Delicious with fish and creamy cheeses. Enjoy in summer 8-10 degrees, winter 12 degrees.

Extended heavy rains in Sardinia in 2018 but,  fortunately, despite this and other challenges, the technical staff at Cantina Mesa were able to grow healthy fruit. After clarification and stabilisation, the wine matured for four months in stainless steel tanks on its lees and for a minimum of one month in bottle before release.

.

Dominio de Punctum "Finca Fabiana" Verdejo 2018 Castilla (VDT), 12%, €12.20
Mary Pawle Wines

Very light straw colour. Pleasant Fruity aromas, light intensity. On the palate it’s a bit more tingly than its Rueda counterpart, fresh and easy-drinking with green fruit (mainly pear/apple) flavours, floral notes too and a lively acidity. Pretty good finish too. Very pleasing as an aperitif and should be fine too with salads and fish.  A simple dry quaffer that should be well received around the table. Very Highly Recommended.

Domino de Punctum wines are organic, biodynamic and vegan-friendly, “following our commitment to the environment and wine lovers around the world.” “We take part of a farming philosophy that is aiming towards the future: we understand how to manage nature to deliver top quality grapes and wines while taking care of the environment, by improving it instead of spoiling it. We aim to achieve this through organic and biodynamic agriculture, making wine that stands out not only for the beauty of its aroma or delicacy on the palate, but for being natural and authentic and free of any chemicals.”