Beautiful Barnabrow. An East Cork Hideaway

Beautiful Barnabrow

An East Cork Hideaway

We came in off the narrow twisting road and drove up an even narrower lane, where trees meet overhead, donkeys and ducks in the small fields. The sun was shining brightly as we approached the inviting restaurant, set in trees with parasols and tables outside. We could well have been on the continent but were in one of East Cork’s delightful venues.

Barnabrow, twenty years in business under Geraldine Kitt, is renowned as a wedding venue. But we were here for Sunday lunch and, as always, chef Stuart Bowes delivered, much of the produce coming from the nearby walled garden.

Starters

The restaurant is also rather special inside. It is here in in this spacious lovingly decorated room that the wedding feasts take place. With its pointed arch windows there is a semi-religious look to it. And your servers come and go into and from what looks like a confessional.

We nibbled on fresh and delicious sourdough (with Glenilen butter) as we studied the menu, two courses for 23.50, three for 27.00. Children may have half adult portions (though various goujons are available too) for 13.50.

Kilmore Quay Hake, soft potato puree, Fennel, Olive & Citrus salsa, Port reduction.
This was our other main dish. Superb. Empty plate went back!

Creamed celeriac, truffle and toasted almonds were the ingredients of the soup but, with the day being so warm, we decided on something else. CL went for the Clonakilty Black Pudding Salad, Crispy Potatoes Alsace, Feta, Apple and Tomato dressing. Quite a substantial starter but full of great flavor and texture.

I had been looking at the Ardsallagh Goats Cheese with confit red onion and hazelnut dressing but picked the Salmon Rillette, Cream Cheese, garden beetroot, and poppy seed dorito. With contrast provided by the dorito, this was a smooth and rich delight.

Lamp, stuffed pepper on right.

There was beef (with Ragu of Ballyhoura mushrooms) and lamb on the mains. I had enjoyed the beef on  a previous occasion so this time choose the Roast Leg of Kildare Lamb, Stuffed Piquillo pepper, Apple and Garden Mint Relish. A superb combination, every bit playing a part, and, for sharing, the sides (especially the full-of-flavour carrots) were just brilliant, looked well, tasted even better.

We were thinking of sharing a dessert but, under some gentle persuasion, went for broke! The deciding factor here was Mum's shortbread, Stuart’s Mum that is! And that shortbread came with the gorgeous Lemon Posset with crushed raspberries, a major step-up on the little jars you often get. And, yes, Mum’s shortbread was class.

Vegetable side dish

The other dessert enjoyed was the Iced Parfait of sea salt and caramel with marshmallows and strawberry sauce. I had a idea this was going to be excellent and it was. Just the job before we headed off into the East Cork sunlight for a stroll around the grounds which boasts a view out towards Ballycotton Bay and the lighthouse.

With all the different buildings, the various sheltered outdoor nooks and corners, one with a good area of decking with seating, the trees and flowers, the animals, the walled garden, it is a great location for a wedding and this is the heart of the business. There is even an adjoining accommodation “village”.

Dessert

In addition, the house (with is many different sized rooms) and grounds accommodates quite a few corporate functions, some serious, some fun. And do watch out too for special events, such as a Valentine’s weekend getaway.

Well done to Geraldine and her team on the twenty years and here’s to another twenty!

I confess, I ate well

Barnabrow House

Cloyne, Midleton

County Cork

Tel: +353 21 4652534

Email: info@barnabrowhouse.ie

Web: http://www.barnabrowhouse.ie

Twitter: @barnabrowhouse

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BarnabrowHouse/?fref=ts

Foodie Destinations 2016

Foodie Destinations 2016
- Applications open 14th July -

The Restaurants Association of Ireland is on the search for Ireland’s top Foodie Destination for 2016. Formerly known as Foodie Towns, the initiative was formed as part of the Irish Restaurant Awards 2014 but proved to be so popular it became its own entity in 2015. Our aim is to celebrate Ireland’s unique and wonderful food offerings and to encourage local food tourism initiatives across the country.
The process: 
-         Applications will be accepted from Thursday 14th of July until Thursday 11th August
-         Applications will be reviewed by a panel of experts and ten finalists will be announced
-         Each of these ten finalists will receive a two hour visit from two of Ireland’s top food critics
-         Online voting will commence and the public vote will count for 50% of the total score
-         The overall winner will be announced on the 29th of September at an event in last year's winning destination - The Burren
How to Apply:
-         A link to the online application form will be released on the 14th of July and it will also be on our website www.foodiedestinations.ie
-         There is a fee of €150 per application. Once your application is submitted, we will contact you for payment details. This fee goes towards administration of the project
-         A minimum of three organisations/businesses/restaurants/groups are required to submit one application on behalf of a town/destination
-         We will announce the ten finalists in due course and each finalist will receive a pre-arranged visit from our judges
For further information please contact the RAI Team on 01 677 9901 or email media@rai.ie. You can also visit our website www.foodiedestinations.ie 

Press release

Three Rouge Pour Vous!

Three Rouge Pour Vous!

Today we feature three lovely reds, including a bargain Pinot Noir from the Ardeche of all places. Not too far away from the Ardeche, comes the “poetic” La Cantilene from the little La Liviniere appellation in Minervois. And then a dash across Provence and into Italy for Mary Pawle’s soft and gorgeous Valpolicella import.

La Boussole Pinot Noir Les Grandes Cotes (Pays D’Oc, IGP) 2014, 12.5%, €13.45 Le Caveau

Colour is a bright ruby and the aromas feature strawberries. It is medium bodied, smooth and juicy. Light fruit flavours much in evidence as is a lively acidity, a little spice and an excellent fruity finish. Very Highly Recommended and great value too.

Winemaker Claude Serra employs, among other things, low yields and “a ruthless approach to quality control” to ensure a wine that reflects the variety and its terroir. And that terroir is in the Ardeche region of western Provence. The fact that it’s a cool-ish area helps the Pinot Noir.

By the way, if you ever have the good luck to be in the area, try the clafoutis! And try everything else as well. All with a glass or two of this Pinot, a very good food wine. Bon Appetit!

Chateau Sainte-Eulalie “La Cantilene” Minervois La Liviniere (AOC) 2013, 14%, €22.50 Karwig Wines

“Eulalie was a good girl

She had a beautiful body, a soul more beautiful still.

The enemies of God wanted to overcome her,

They wanted to make her serve the devil.”

From the heart of the Minervois, from an area called La Liviniere, Karwig Wines in Carrigaline bring you this superb red, a blend of Syrah (55%), Grenache (20) and Carignan (25). La Cantilene (881 AD) is the first romanesque poetic work, stanza above.

Close to Canal du Midi, north east of Carcassonne, north west of Beziers, Laurent and Isabelle Coustal run “an outstanding estate” and are one of the leading producers, respecting nature including the environment. For instance, their 2006 warehouse has its temperature controlled by a geothermal system rather than an energy hungry air conditioner.

La Cantilene has dark fruit aromas, notes of toast. Warm fruit flavours, vanilla notes, some spice too, fine tannins and a decent finish too from this full and rich wine. Recommended for game, grilled red meat and cheese. And the wine itself is Highly Recommended.

The wine area La Liviniere has a reputation for producing some of the finest red wines of the region. Read more here.

Fasoli Gino La Corte del Pozzo, Valpolicella (DOC) 2014, 14%, €20.20 Mary Pawle Wines

Corvina and Rondinella, often seen in the Amarone blend, are the grapes in this vibrant red. And indeed, a portion of these grapes is dried for 15-20 days ‘to increase the proportion of sugar and aromatic contents”. Ten to twelve months later, the two portions are blended. Harvesting is by hand and it is Vino Biologico  (organic). Highly Recommended.

It is a bright ruby. It has red fruit aromas plus some vanilla. All follow through to the smooth and balanced, rich and soft, palate experience. Suggestions for pairing include: pasta, rice; also good with grilled red meats and medium mature cheeses.

Taste of the Week. Shine’s Wild Irish Tuna

Taste of the Week

Shines Wild Irish Tuna

Shines Wild Irish Tuna comes packed tightly in a jar, packed full of flavour too, and is our Taste of the Week.

Use it with a simple salad, as we did, and you’ll get all that delicious flavour of the amazing Albacore Tuna, moist, succulent and meaty. Or you can move up to Tuna-Garbanzo Salad! What’s that? You may well ask. Well, it’s just one of the recipes that Shines provide on their website. Great to see Irish producers give this recipe service.

Shine’s, with 30 years experience behind them, have brought us “this new taste experience”, “Once tasted, always loved.”

Albacore Tuna is a migratory species.  Always on the move, they come within reach of our fishing fleet for only a short period every year.  At the end of August, this fish is caught in very large numbers. Fresh tuna can be enjoyed for just a few weeks each year. But now, thanks to the Shine’s jar, you can prolong the experience. Enjoy.

Shine’s Seafood

Conlin Road

Killybegs

County Donegal

Email: shinesseafood@gmail.com

Phone

Marianne: +353 863873950

John: +353 86 8164106

Ciara: +353 87 2188021

Home: +353 74 9731758

Twitter: @shinesseafood  

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ShinesSeafood1

The Café At Stephen Pearce Pottery.

The Café At Stephen Pearce Pottery
At The End Of The Lane

I was sitting in the Cafe at Stephen Pearce Pottery when I heard them. I looked up at the sloping ceiling, up beyond the many paintings of fruits and vegetables, expecting to see a swallow or two. But, no. The bird sounds were coming from the room next door, from a couple of lovebirds.

There were other happy sounds from that quarter too, from children playing with a lump of clay on a worktop with a wall in front decorated with the prints of lots of little hands. So here the kids are engaged while mum and dad enjoy the food and drink next door.

And if the weather is fine, you will hear the birds and other little creatures as you sit and dine in one of the two quite attractive outdoor areas, each surrounded by wind-stopping trees and bushes.

But all these desirable extras aside, it is the food you come from. Chef Christine Crowley won't let you down, whether you've come for brunch or lunch or just a cup of the Golden Bean coffee and one of her delicious cakes. Actually, if you're going to confine yourself to just one cake, make it the absolutely delicious Carrot and Walnut. Then again…..

We were there for lunch recently, arriving just as they changed the boards. That gave us a chance to see the Brunch Menu and that too is very tempting. Lots of drinks here too, teas and coffees, waters and juices. And a short wine list that includes Cremant d’Alsace to add a little sparkle to your visit.

I had heard good mention of the Steak Sandwich (€10.00) so I picked that. It was one of the best of its type I’ve come across. The ingredients are simply stated: sourdough, steak, caramelised onions, garlic mayonnaise and dressed leaves. Simply delicious, as someone famous down Shanagarry way would say!

Virtually everything on your plate is local. The sourdough is by Pana, the steak from Frank Murphy Butchers. Other names on the list include fish smoker Bill Casey (a next door neighbour), The Village Green Grocer in Castlemartyr, Rosscarbery Recipes, Jack McCarthy Kanturk, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, East Ferry Farm, Darren’s Eggs Ballymaloe, Wilkie’s Organic Hot Chocolate and Golden Bean Coffee.

CL’s pick was the Bruschetta with roasted red peppers, hummus, grilled gourgette, served with dressed leaves. This eye-catching palate-pleasing plateful cost just €8.50. Excellent eating, excellent value.

Then it was time for coffee and that Carrot and Walnut cake! If a whole flock of swallows had flown in at that moment, I wouldn’t have heard them, such was my concentration on that superb wedge of moist sweetness in the lovely café at the end of a Shanagarry boreen.

The Café at Stephen Pearce Pottery

Shanagarry

County Cork

Tel: 086 199 6934

Email: thecafeatspp@gmail.com

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/thecafeatstephenpearcepottery/timeline

Twitter: Twitter @TheCafe_SPP

Twisted Kinsale. You Send Me!

Twisted Kinsale. You Send Me!

Halibut and Lobster Risotto. Mains

When Sam Cooke released Twistin’ the night away back in the 60s day, the B side was You Send Me. The titles might well sum up Twisted in Kinsale. Cooke’s Twist was new and, in Kinsale, Spanish Head Chef Guillermo Carrión Garcia has put a new twist on the menu and, well, it sends me!

Don’t know what It sends me means? This is what the Urban Dictionary says: It describes a feeling of love so deep, it takes you to another world.

Twisted is a Tapas Bar and Restaurant in Kinsale, opened by Maushmi Arun and Christophe Moreau over 12 months ago. Started as Tapas and Wine but evolved into a full scale restaurant and the tapas are large, doubling as starters. I think one would be called ración in Spain.

Octopus starter

So let's start on the new summer menu in this long, narrow place, with its casual decor of sides of wine boxes on some wall surfaces and also its big black wall with the Specials chalked up and also the names of the international team.  

They have a tempting cocktail list. And a really classy wine list, much of it organic and available by the glass. If you're looking for white, Bodegas Menade Verdejo or Cuvee de Conti Semillon and Muscadelle from Bergerac are excellent. On the red side, I was delighted with the Massaya Classic Red (Lebanon) and the Volubilia rogue, a Moroccan blend from Domaine Zouina. But you’ve lots to pick from and hard to go wrong. The staff will help you choose.

Peppers stuffed with lamb; mains

You may stick with the Tapas here for the evening; there are usually three or four specials to vary the mix. You may also enjoy various boards to share, including meat and cheese. I might well go that route next time as they have top notch Iberico Belloto ham, and cheeses, such as Ossau Irraty (got lost up there once - blame it on the Sat-Nav!) from the Pyrenees and Gubbeen from West Cork. Indeed, you can have a board of cheese and meat.

Didn't get to all the starters but did try five! The Rabbit Leg in a Mediterranean sauce is gorgeous, the sauce especially so, and do try also the Prawn and Sea Spaghetti Spring Rolls that come with a chilli mayonnaise.

Turbot and purple potato

Fresh Calamari and Aioli Sauce with Organic Lettuce is simply delightful. The Baby Octopus with Gallego sauce on a bed of potato is both spectacular and delicious. And the Beef Cheek croquettes with Port sauce and sweet onion is amazing and very popular too.

On to the mains then. There was the Skeaghanore Duck Leg Confit that comes with Sarlat style wild garlic potatoes. Add in a fig sauce, a white peach froth, and an amazing apple and walnut salad and you have quite a treat on your plate!

Rabbit starter

 Just as well, everything can be shared here - they leave a few extra plates for that very purpose. Otherwise there’d be a fight when the Lobster and Halibut Miloja appears. The fish is in a puff pastry pocket and served with a squid ink risotto, pak choi, local samphire and roasted cherry tomatoes.

And the sharing goes on. The Wild Turbot comes with purple potato, bilbaina of chanterelles and more, quite a presentation! And our next joint venture involved the Piquillo Peppers (sweet taste, no heat). Here, they are stuffed with creamy minced Irish lamb, with a Vizcaina sauce, and served with couscous, zucchini pearls, cream of celery, sweet potato squares, baby carrots, baby leeks. Superb. No wonder it’s an in-house favourite!

Duck

 Boozy, decadent, velvety are words used to describe the desserts, mostly all together and all true! Love my sweet wine, so when I saw a glass of Jurancon with those Bordeaux treats, Canelé (bite-sized custard filled cakes), I just had to say oui. And my treat was matched on the other side of the table by Chocolate Truffles with Pietri Geraud Banyuls Rimage Mademoiselle O. Just had to be nice to Mademoiselle to get a taste of that sweet red!

And, after experience, there is yet one more dessert to recommend. Considering where the chef hails from, there was no way we could leave and not try the Santiago Almond Tart, mascarpone ice-cream and fresh mango. Magic!

Cheeks

And the Twisted service? Very friendly, very informative and helpful. You get a warm welcome and soon the water and menus are on your table and a mini-copy of the specials board as well. And they don't leave it at that. They’ll explain the specials and answer any other questions, help you with the wine as well. 

All in all, something new and refreshing in this gourmet corner of Ireland. Something very welcome and Very Highly Recommended.

Santiago Tart

Twisted
5 Main Street, Kinsale, County Cork
Tel: 086 810 0157
Hours: Daily - 6.00pm to 10.00pm
Email: twistedkinsale@gmail.com
Facebook:  https://www.facebook.com/twistedkinsale5mainstreet/?fref=nf
Twitter: @TwistedKinsale

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View from Bunnyconnellan

Amuse Bouche

..there, just outside the door, he preserved traditional delicacies - brisket, liver sausage and whale blubber, supplied by a local shopkeeper - in a small bucket of sour whey. Erlendur topped up the bucket on a regular basis. He often got into arguments about eating habits with Gardar, who was a big fan of American fast food. To Erlendur, all Gardar’s impassioned talk of pizzas and hamburgers was gibberish.

from Reykjavik Nights by Arnaldur Indridason