Tuesday, September 6, 2016

Taste of the Week. Carrigaline Original Cheese

Taste of the Week
Carrigaline Original Cheese
Despite so many new Irish food products appearing on a regular basis, sometimes it's best to go back to the originals. I did just that recently when I picked up a wedge of the Original version of the Carrigaline Farmhouse Cheese. This is a semi-hard cheese and is very bit as creamy and mild as ever, a local classic with delicious flavours and our Taste of the Week.

After the original, they developed other versions, including Smoked and a very popular Dillisk Seaweed. You may read all about the range here

“I love the smoked cheese”, declared Padraig O’Farrell during my last visit to Carrigaline Farmhouse Cheese. “It is indigenous to Carrigaline. The milk is local, and the wood, old beech, is local. And we smoke it out the back.” And it is not only Padraig that likes it as the Smoked is an award winner.

The Carrigaline story began close to thirty years ago when Ann and Pat, Padraig’s parents, first produced their semi-hard cow’s milk cheese from their own herd, after Pat had undertaken a six month cheese course at UCC.

Carrigaline Cheese is widely available in small shops and big. See the full list of stockists here

Carrigaline Farmhouse Cheese
The Rock.
Carrigaline
County Cork
Tel: +353 21 437 2856

Monday, September 5, 2016

A Premium Sherry. Follow My Apostoles

A Premium Sherry
Follow My Apostoles
Apostoles Palo Cortado V.O.R.S., 20% abv, González Byass (Jerez), c €23.95 (37.5cl) in Bradley’s, Cork.

This is an amazing sherry, a serious one, yet a wine to have fun with. Try it with your favourite paté. In the English Market I picked up some delicious Chicken Liver Paté, the brandy and garlic version, from On the Pig’s Back. This proved to be a superb pairing.

I was a little worried about complicating it further but couldn't resist adding a taste of Harty’s Cumberland & Port Jelly to the pair. Now, I had a triple to relish. Not quite a ménage à trois, but sexy! Cheese and red meats are also recommended as partners for the sherry.

The dark amber liquid is complex, full of aromas and flavours of concentrated fruit, soft on the palate and so concentrated that a sip goes a long way. Savour it for a while, the hints of sweetness, explore the tangy notes, the salty notes and then enjoy that very long smooth finish. Smooth from start to finish in fact.

This Very Highly Recommended wine has been a long time in the making, thirty years no less. I’ll let the winemakers tell the story of this blend of Palomino (87%) and Pedro Ximenez (13%): As soon as the Palomino grapes reach the winery they are gently pressed using pneumatic presses without crushing the stems, seeds or skins. This must from the first light pressing is called ‘yema’ and is the most elegant and delicate must. The Pedro Ximenez grapes are lightly pressed separately. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks and classification, the Palomino wine is fortified to 18%, the PX to 15.5%.

The wines then enter their own separate Soleras of American oak barrels to begin their aging in contact with the air. After an average of twelve years, the wines are blended and enter the Apostoles Solera where they will remain for a further 18 years following the traditional Solera system.

To find out more about sherry, about Palo Cortado and this bottle in particular, please visit the González Byass website.

Sunday, September 4, 2016

On Whiskey Trail in Mayo. Visit to the Connacht Distillery

On Whiskey Trail in Mayo
Visit to the new Connacht Distillery
Connacht Distillery
Last weekend, after a drive from Donegal, we made it just  in time to take the 12.30pm tour of the new Connacht Distillery in Ballina, County Mayo. What else would you be doing on a Sunday morning!

Aside from a spanking new distillery, you need water, barley and yeast to make whiskey. Connacht get their water, clean water, from Lough Conn and Lough Cullen. Lots of iron and calcium in the water so it has to be demineralised before being used in the distilling process.

The malted barley, having come through the milling stage, meets up with the warmed water in the boiler tank. This liquid-y mix is called the mash and is put into the mash tun, another tank.  The sugar, from the barley, dissolves and is drawn off through the bottom of the mash tun. The resulting liquid is called 'wort'. Lautering is the next process, in the third tank (the Lauter tun), and here the mash is separated into the clear liquid wort and the residual grain.
Now we are on to the three wash vats, all stainless steel. Here, the yeast is added and begins to act on the sugar in the wort, turning it into alcohol over a period of two to four days. This wash is low in alcohol, much the same as that of wine.

Our guide now enthusiastically points to their three gleaming stills, which were made in Victoria, Canada. They have different necks which influence character and texture etc. The first tank is called Wash; the alcohol evaporates up the neck and leaves this tank at about 20% abv.

On then to the Feint tank where the process is repeated and the alcohol increases, this time to about 35%. The final, the third, tank is called the Spirit. Irish whiskeys are traditionally triple distilled. When the Spirit has done its work, the liquid, still clear (no colour) has an abv of about 70%!
Ballina last Sunday (28.08.16)
You’ve heard of flying winemakers. Well Connacht’s distiller Rob runs two distilleries in Pennsylvania and flies over regularly to Ballina. He also sources the oak casks which are charred and impart flavour and colour and in which the Connacht whiskey will be matured. The casks are made in Kentucky and are ex-Bourbon. All bottling is done here, all by hand.

Like many new distilleries, Connacht makes some white spirits to get the cash flow going while waiting the mandatory three years (and a day) for the whiskey. They are planning their gin and there will be some interesting botanicals included! The Poitin was due to be bottled the day after our visit but we did get a taste of their smooth Straw Boys Vodka. This wheat based drink is good and smooth, with a hint of  pepper in the aftertaste. The Straw Boys are a Mayo tradition, a sign of luck if they turn up at your wedding. “They are all about fun and getting the party going!”.

You will have to wait until 2019 to taste their own whiskey but in the meantime, they have been putting their own finish to a bought-in whiskey. It is called Spade and Bushel (after the tools of the trade) and is light amber in colour, smooth and sweet, hints of caramel and a “great after dinner drink”. No bother agreeing with that. Be careful with it though. One thing that sets this apart is that it is a cask strength whisky with an abv of 57.5%! It comes in a 37.5cl bottle.
The Straw Boys love a party
 When their own whiskey comes on the market, it will feature a rather special logo, a Celtic Dragon with a bunch of corn stalks in his claw.


There is another distillery starting up in Mayo, the Nephin, named after the county’s famous mountain. This is different. They are creating peated single malts made in a small Mayo village using locally grown barley, locally cut turf and triple distilled in traditional copper pot stills, then matured in unique casks handcrafted in their own cooperage. Must call there the next time!

My base for the night was the Grand National Hotel Ballina. They have a rather large bar and I was disappointed, considering the amount of breweries around the county, that they had no craft beer. Luckily, I spotted a Jameson Whiskey menu on the counter and spent an enjoyable hour or two sampling.


The new Connacht distillery. A new Greenway, from Ballina to Killala, starts alongside it.
The favourite was the Powers John's Lane Release at €9.00 a glass. The drop of water, the only other thing needed, was free! There is an abundance of aromas - don't stick your nose into the glass - just hover above it; it is full bodied, spicy and sweet and has a lingering finish. Think this is my new number one!

And if I can't get it, I’ll go for the Yellow Spot 12 Years Old, another single pot still whiskey, another smooth sweet customer at €9.50 a glass. It is complete from start to long finish with a distinctive sweetness at all stages. Sophisticated and complex they say. And it sure is. Reckon the Mayo distillery, indeed all new distilleries, have a fight on their hands. Perhaps, the best way to go about it is to avoid the direct collision and find your own niche.

Great for us customers though to have the choice!
Beers from the local Reel Deal
Aside from pulling a blank in the Ballina Hotel, craft beers, especially in bottle, were easy enough to find during this quick trip to Donegal Town and Ballina. Kinnegar Brewing and Donegal Brewing were available in The Harbour Restaurant in Quay Street in Donegal. And beers from the same two breweries were enjoyed over in the Village Tavern in Mountcharles. Last call in Donegal was the Olde Castle where the restaurant were offering their own beer called, appropriately, Red Hugh, and brewed in the county.

Ballina had started well enough with a couple of decent beers, the Irish Blonde amber ale and the General Humber French fusion ale, both by Mayo’s Reel Deel and both available in bottle in the upstairs restaurant of the lively Bar Square in Garden Street. And then came the blank in the hotel. The joys of researching. Still the whiskeys were a considerable consolation!
Killala, known to M. Humbert

Saturday, September 3, 2016

Amuse Bouche

I was just doing my job, the same as the male soigneurs.
The fact was, I was terrified of missing handing an exhausted rider his feed bag. Those lads have suffered enough already. Often I'd have fight my way through crowds of fans too. Belgian fans were especially bad, running like hell from one point of a race to another, not leaving room for staff. In winter races I'd time my arrival at the zone to the last minute, so that the heavily syruped tea we’d made would still be warm enough to heat frozen hands.

From The Race To Truth by Emma O’Reilly (2014). Highly Recommended

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Supporting Local. The Pantry, Kinsale

Supporting Local.
The Pantry, Kinsale
 The August sun is shining as we arrive in Kinsale, looking for lunch. The outside tables are full at the bistro across the road from St Multose Church. Doesn’t look good for a place inside. But there are a few and soon we are seated in the busy Pantry and studying the menu at the table and checking the specials on the board over the open kitchen where the crew are working hard.

Hadn't been here before but had heard good things about it from one of the natives. And she was right. We enjoyed a superb lunch here, terrific food and a lively efficient staff. Besides, they use a lot of local produce. Here are a few examples: eggs from the happy free range hens of Beechwood Farm; fresh fish from Jimbo O’Keeffe; Lordan’s of Ballinspittle supply the meat; while the coffee comes from the Badger & Dodo Roastery.


Lots of salads, sandwiches and a tempting quiche special available but we go for the substantial stuff. Quite how substantial, I was about to find out when my Boeuf Bourguignon arrived. “I could be a while,” I said to my server who promised that every piece was delicious. She too was right.

I should perhaps have read the description more closely and then wouldn't have been that surprised by the big piece that appeared in my bowl. I was expecting it in a bowl but not this much, not this good. Full description: 12 hour slow-roasted short rib of beef in a smoked bacon & red wine jus, served with creamed mashed potato, glazed carrots & asparagus. Very enjoyable. All that was left was the bone!
 CL’s pick was also a winner. Her Moroccan style salmon, consisting of Harissa seared Atlantic Salmon, served with a warm couscous salad of baby spinach, roasted red pepper, basil, baby peas, mozzarella cheese & finished with a chive crème fraiche, was absolutely gorgeous.

So two very happy customers after the mains. What about dessert? Well, a time to share a large caramel square, quite a class one too, and sip our coffees, mine a well crafted Flat white, hers a concentrated espresso.


We had started here with a couple of cups of soup, her's a Butternut Squash (with Chilli Coconut), mine a  chowder, both excellent. You have a choice of a cup or a slightly more expensive bowl. Be warned, it is a big cup! So we paid up and bought a nice loaf of their brown bread (we had enjoyed a slice with the soup) on the way out to see that late August sun still shining down on the seaside town.

It was getting on now for two o’clock but The Pantry was still buzzing, departing customers being replaced immediately.

The Pantry
Guardwell, Kinsale, Co.Cork
Tel: +353 21 477 4453
email : thepantrykinsale@gmail.com
Hours: Tue-Sat: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm

Sun: 9:00 am - 2:00 pm

Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Saturday is Cabernet Day. Two to enjoy!


Saturday is Cabernet Day
Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for nearly 65% of the vines planted in the Margaux appellation. “It gives wine structure, bouquet, and a potential to age.”

The related Cabernets, Franc and Sauvignon, celebrate their day this coming Saturday (September 3rd).

Cabernet Sauvignon is the most famous red wine grape. It is highly adaptable, will grow in different climates and soils. So expect good quality examples from many countries, especially from France (mainly Bordeaux), USA (California), Australia (below) and Chile (Cono Sur’s Silencio is a prime example, if an expensive one). Good Cabernet Sauvignon can pop in from anywhere, including from Craggy Range in New Zealand and Ernie Els in South Africa.

It is also a very well-known variety so its name on a bottle means that the customer has a familiarity with it and that gives the marketing people an immediate edge. No wonder it  sells well in so many countries.

But you still have to be careful. It is a high-yielding vine and that means producers can go for quantity over quality! So the words Cabernet Sauvignon on the label are not a guarantee of a good bottle. The two below though are good!

Cabernet Sauvignon originated in Bordeaux and is grown all around the region, invariably blended (though there is no universal formula for the mix). Regular blend partners are Merlot and Cabernet Franc and sometimes a little Petit Verdot is added.

DNA profiling (should we all get it done? Maybe not!) has confirmed Cabernet Franc is the daddy of Cabernet Sauvignon and that Sauvignon Blanc is the mammy.


Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Victoria (AUS), 13.5%, €18.25 Wines Direct

For decades now, Australian has been associated with top class Cabernet Sauvignon. Margaret River in the west has outstanding examples. Our excellent example comes from the east, from the Nagambie Lakes region of central Victoria, one of the nation’s premier viticultural areas. Since 2012, Tahbilk Winery has been certified Carbon Neutral.

Nothing neutral about this violet beauty though. Blackcurrants, and some spice, feature in the pleasant aromas. Some serious flavours on a well rounded palate, tannins are fine and the finish is good. A excellent example indeed and Very Highly Recommended.

Lalaurie T’Wines Cabernet Sauvignon - Syrah, Pays d’Oc (IGT), 2015, 13.5%, €11.75 Wines Direct

Once upon a time, according to Grapes and Wine (2015), the classic Bordeaux blend included Syrah. This blend is very popular nowadays in Australia but the one we’ve got comes from much nearer home, from the Languedoc.

Bit wary of these funny wine names, this one coming because the two leading women in the winery are twins (and one is a marketing expert!). But I needn’t have worried. This is a very engaging wine and good value to boot.

It has a bright ruby colour and the aromas are mainly of blackcurrant. It is very approachable, medium bodied, well balanced between fruit and acidity, minimum tannin presence. Not the longest but a decent finish nonetheless. Easy drinking and easy to Recommend!


EAT Waterford at Harvest Festival 2016

The EAT Waterford Taste Experience was a highlight of the Harvest Festival last year and is back. 



EAT Waterford at Harvest Festival 2016
A fusion of taste offered by eight Waterford restaurants
Following on from the success of last year’s debut at Waterford Harvest Festival, the EAT Waterford Taste Experience is back for 2016. 

As part of the three day, jam packed food festival (September 9th to 11th), the EAT Waterford Taste experience, a collaboration between eight local restaurants, will create a five course taste extravaganza, served in one of Waterford’s finest cultural hubs, Greyfriars Church, in the Viking Triangle.

The restaurants behind the initiative, Bellissimo, Momo, The Olive Tree, Sabai, The Bistro at the Tower Hotel, Loko, Zak’s at Athenauem House Hotel and l’Atmosphere, are ardent supporters of local produce and will create the dishes using fresh, seasonal and locally sourced ingredients.

Stan Leslie, Proprietor of Loko is looking forward to the event.  “We had a fantastic experience last year.  All our sittings were sold out and I think the public really enjoyed the different elements brought to the courses by the different chefs.  Despite each chef having a unique style and personality, the overall result was that it gelled well and, most importantly, presented a very vibrant food scene in our great City.”

“This year, we have added some new restaurants to the mix and we’re excited about the new dynamic.  Waterford has a broad range of award winning restaurants, all punching above their weight.  By coming together for this taste experience, not only can we showcase the breadth of great produce on our doorstep, but also the talent, commitment and enthusiasm that thrives in restaurants and their kitchens throughout the city.”

The EAT Waterford Taste Experience takes place at 8pm on Friday, September 9th and Saturday 10th and at 2pm on Sunday, September 11th.  

Catherine Heffernan of Sabai is also happy to be involved in the Eat Waterford showcase event. “This year we have also added a casual lunch to the schedule.  The Flavour Experience will be served on Saturday, September 10th at 2pm.  This lunch will give diners the opportunity to enjoy even more food styles that our diverse local food scene has to offer whilst soaking up the atmosphere of the festival.”

“Added to the mix is the fantastic setting of Greyfriars Church.  It’s bright, spacious, atmospheric and brimming with charm and we really do believe that it is going to bring an extra dimension to the whole dining experience.”

Tickets for both EAT Waterford events, the five course taste experience and the Flavour Experience (casual lunch) are €39 and €19 respectively and are available from the Theatre Royal Box Office on 051 874402 or online at www.theatreroyal.ie

The 8th Waterford Harvest Festival takes place from Friday, September 9th to Sunday, September 11th and promises an exciting, eclectic three - day food and fun filled festival with over 100 events for all the family to enjoy.

To find out more the Waterford Harvest Festival full programme of events is available on www.waterfordharvestfestival.ie. Be sure to keep up to date on all things Harvest Fest by checking it out on Facebook and Twitter #Harvestfest16

Some more highlights
New ingredients added to festival favourites!
www.waterfordharvestfestival.ie

Now in its eight year, Waterford Harvest Festival makes a colourful, tasty and aromatic return to the streets of Waterford from September 9th to September 11th.

As a city and county that takes huge pride in its food producers, this year’s festival will shine the spotlight on its “food heroes”, the people who grow, cultivate, harvest, produce, prepare, promote and serve some of the country’s best food.

Waterford, Ireland’s oldest city, boasts 1100 years of food heritage and will pay homage to that proud tradition with festival markets, harvest kitchens, a health and wellness showcase, pop-up restaurants, baking competitions, enterprising food start-ups, a celebration of Irish whiskeys, a GIY oasis, an opportunity to meet the makers and so much more!

New to this year’s festival are the Harvest Fit Food and Wellness area, the Harvest Blaa Eating World Championships, Sunset Seaweed Foraging, Tapas River tours, Iyer’s Pop-up restaurant and the Flahavan’s Harvest brunch, along with the firm festival favourites that never fail to thrill!

Ballybricken, affectionately known as the ‘top of the town’, was traditionally the hub of Waterford’s livestock and bacon curing industries. The area will enjoy a broader portfolio of events this year and be shrouded in the tantalising sights, smells and sounds of the Ballybricken Fair, Junior HQ and Farm to Fork.

There are over 100 fun, family and food- fueled events taking place, with 80 of those free for the young and young at heart to enjoy.  Some of the highlights this year include:

Harvest Festival Market:
The Festival Market is all about local, quality produce and their dedicated producers and Waterford’s Viking Triangle is transformed into a feaster’s fantasy with a weekend of taste bud tempting events! The Mall will be stuffed with producers showcasing mouth-watering food and beverages. It’s a veritable bounty of Waterford’s best Harvest.

EnterpRISING Food Village:
From the traditional and famous Blaa to exotic seaweed based breads, the return of hand roasting coffee in the region to locally famous ice cream makers, these and more local food producers will be pitching their tents in Cathedral Square, Waterford City and creating the EnterpRISING Food Village!

EAT Waterford Taste experience:
An exciting collaboration between eight local restaurants, which will create a five course taste extravaganza, served in one of Waterford’s finest cultural hubs, Greyfriars Church, in the Viking Triangle.
The Flavour experience, a more casual affair…a semi-formal lunch will give diners the opportunity to enjoy a more tapas taste experience, whilst still enjoying the best of local produce from an eight- strong restaurant team.

Blaa Eating World Championship:
The story of the Blaa goes back to the 1690’s, when the French Huguenots arrived in Ireland introducing white flour and their baking skills. Over 300 years later, it remains a firm staple, not just of the Waterford diet, but of thousands of Irish diaspora scattered throughout the world.  A proud Waterford foodstuff and a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) product.

Put your competitive hat on and come and sample a range of competitions at Blaa Fest! Teams and individuals welcome to compete for some great prizes including a cash prize.  Or just pop down and watch those who are brave enough to participate. 

Flahavan’s Harvest Brunch:
A celebration of Waterford food producers, with a buffet style brunch in the company of John McKenna of John and Sally McKennas’ Guides. There will be a veritable feast of local produce on hand and the producers will also be there to tell their stories and pass on their passion for their food. Hosted by The Granary, recent award winners of Munster’s Best Cafe, at the Irish Restaurant Awards, there’ll also be live jazz accompaniment.

Harvest Fit Food and Wellness Area at the Millennium Plaza:
An area dedicated to health, well - being and mindfulness. Featured will be the Community Garden Competition where Three Waterford community groups have designed and planted their own micro garden! Ballybeg Greens will show you how to grow your own, with a particular focus on late crops, as we approach Autumn.

You won’t want to miss the great line up of two days of talk shops about Kangoo jumping, Living and foraging from the sea, baking “good” bread, raw food, community gardens competition, the power of juice, yoga, sports nutrition, healing herbs, Zumba, meditation, meditation drumming and fermented drinks.

Tapas River Tour:
A pop up restaurant from Waterford’s popular tapas venue and wine bar, The Olive Tree, on board the Brian Boru, a traditional gaff rigged wooden sailing ketch, on the River Suir. Enjoy Waterford’s best tapas and amazing wine, while taking a 90-minute tour downriver.

The SuperValu Food Academy Village:
Located adjacent to Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre on the Mall, the SuperValu Food Academy Village features the very best of Irish artisan food producers who have taken part in the SuperValu Food Academy.
 

Viking Rocks Craft Beer Fest:
This hugely popular event returns to Baileys New Street once again and promises to be one of the top attractions at this year’s Harvest Festival. Hosted by The Reg and The Munster Bar, sample a choice of Irish Craft Beers from Metalman Brewery (Home of the Blaager) and Cork’s Franciscan Well Brewery.
Cider Wasps headline on Saturday night with Papa Zitas wrapping Harvest up in style on Sunday evening.
GIY at Palace Square:
GIY brings their enthusiasm and love of food to the Harvest Festival every year. This year will be no different with the GIY patch promising to be an oasis in the city. Wander among the fragrant herbs, chat to the growers and stock up on all your food growing necessities. Relax on the pallet benches and learn how to create your own edible nirvana at home in any space.

Iyer’s Pop Up restaurant at La Boheme:
The award winning chef-proprietor of Iyer’s Restaurant in Cork, Gautham Iyer, will bring his Brahmin culinary philosophy to Waterford’s La Boheme Restaurant on Sunday, September 11th as part of the Waterford Harvest Festival menu.

Whiskey tasting at Revolution:
Enjoy a celebration of Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey with Gerard Garland, Irish Whiskey Ambassador for Midleton Distillery. On the night taste four of Ireland’s quintessential and finest Whiskey’s. The Whiskeys are Greenspot Leoville-Barton, Powers Johns Lane 12 Year Old, Redbreast 21 Year Old and Midleton Dair Ghaelach.

100% of the Barley (Malted and Unmalted) used in the production of these four Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey’s is grown by Irish farmers in the south east of Ireland.
In association with Irish Distillers Pernod-Ricard and World Wide Wines.

Just some of the highlights of the 8th Waterford Harvest Festival from Friday, September 9th to Sunday, September 11th.  

To find out more the Waterford Harvest Festival full programme of events is available on www.waterfordharvestfestival.ie. Be sure to keep up to date on all things Harvest Fest by checking it out on Facebook and Twitter #Harvestfest16