Wednesday, January 6, 2016

Albarino. Wine of the Celtic Fringe and the Spanish King.

Albariño. Wine of the Celtic Fringe and the Spanish King.

Albariño, from the green lands of Galicia, has become a very popular wine in recent years. Across the River Mino, the Portuguese call it Alvarinho and use it as the major component (sometimes the only grape) in Vinho Verde.

The Rias Baixas wine region of Galicia, where the indented coastline is a major feature of this Celtic fringe of Spain, is the home of Albariño, and there are a number of sub zones. Condado do Tea is the warmest and this is where the Senorio de Rubios comes from, while the Segrel and the Codax are from the cooler and wetter Val do Salnes. O Rosal is another sub zone, to the south west. Here, you could do worse than look out for Terras Gauda.
Hamper!
I was lucky enough to win three of the wines below (the Codax is the exception) in a pre-Christmas online competition run by Food and Wine from Spain (Ireland) and they invited me to drink like a king! The King of Spain chose Albariño wines to celebrate his marriage.

With its aromas of honeysuckle, citrus, ripe melon, peach, pear, among other exotic fruits, it is the perfect drink to enjoy with friends during the summer. But not bad in the middle of winter either, as I found out these past few days.

It pairs well with a wide range of cuisines and Food and Wine from Spain tell me it “works fantastically with Indian, Asian and Mexican food”.

“The hand picked grapes that go into Albariño wines are carefully tended to by the winemakers in Rias Baixas. Over half these winemakers are women, representing the highest figure of female producers in any wine producing region.”

Finest Wines of Rioja (2011) debunked a popular misconception that these wines are meant to be drunk within one year of the vintage. “..a quality Albariño, bottled during the the first spring after harvest, with a balanced structure relying on fresh acidity and  a good mineral character, will be at its best after its second spring and will continue growing in bottle for some years.”
Tetella cheese (DO)

In Grapes and Wines (Oz Clarke & Margaret Rand), Albariño is hailed as the grape that “brings flavour in bucketfuls to the white wines of northwestern Iberia”. And they go on to tell us that Albariño is “by far Spain’s most fashionable white variety, particularly when grown in Rias Baixas..”

The coastal landscape is neatly summed up in the World Atlas of Wine: “..the landscape is exceptional for Spain: irregular Atlantic inlets called rías, which are effectively shallow fjords, lined with hills that are densely forested with local pine and rapacious eucalyptus imported in the 1950s.” The green Spain.


  • Did a fair bit of reading from authoritative sources for this post and most seem to agree that three of the top producers are: Fillaboa (imported by Wines Direct), Le Val and Pazo de Senorans (O’Brien’s).


Segrel Ambar Albariño 2014, 12.5%
Bright gold in colour, it has intense aromas (fruity, floral, and definity herbaceous). It is not shy on the palate either. The intense fruit is immediately obvious as is its viscosity. That fruit though is well balanced by the acidity and then it also has a superb elegant finish. A super Albariño and Very Highly Recommended. If you like a “bold” wine go for this one, if you prefer something more restrained then try the Mario Sanzo. You might need to try both to be sure!
Segrel is the name given to a travelling medieval poet and this wine, in its Burgundy bottle, is indeed harmonious, a most pleasant balance of flavour and acidity. May have the edge on the Senorio de Rubios.


Imported by Woods Wines Ltd.

Mario Sanzo Albariño 2014, 12.5%.

Bright in the glass with a pale gold colour. Similar to the Segrel Ambar even if not quite as intense, it has a very pleasant aroma combination of fruit, floral and herbaceous notes. Viscosity feels a bit above average. Full bodied, mineral and fruity, with a stronger acidity at play here, perhaps reflecting the proximity of the vineyard to the bracing Atlantic. Overall, it is very well balanced indeed, a very refreshing wine, restrained and refined and Very Highly Recommended.

Sanzo are hardly a typical Rias Baixas producer in that they produce wines all across Spain, even in Portugal.


SEÑORÍO DE RUBIÓS ALBARIÑO
Señorío De Rubiós Albariño 2013, 12.5%,
Got off to a poor start with this one!
My three bottles were accompanied by a Spanish cows milk cheese, called Tetella, and I paired the two, thinking that since both were from Galicia, they would match well. I thought I was on a winner but it didn't work. Not a win, win! Just the opposite. 

Yet, a quick separation later and I had two winners. The unusually shaped cheese is mild and pleasant to eat. It can be enclosed in the local roasted peppers (there was a jar in the hamper!) or used with a little bit of relish (such as the redcurrant and port wine by Lakeshore).

The wine, with its healthy looking light gold colour (tints of green there too), was superb on its own. It has attractive aromas with both floral and fruit elements. On the palate it is fresh, full of white fruit flavours, terrific structure and viscosity and a long dry minerally finish. Excellent and Highly Recommended.
Seen this at €16.99 online at the Black Pig Dublin

Martin Codax Albariño 2013, 12.5%, €16.70 Karwig Wines
A lovely light gold is the colour here. Aromas are intense, not quite as much as the Segrel though the same elements - floral, fruity, herbaceous - are all present. No shortage of citrus-y fruits on the palate, quite a bracing acidity here and then that long minerally finish. Ideal for those Atlantic shellfish and Highly Recommended.


Below, I have added the winery’s tasting notes. Do you like the names of their three steps?


"The Martin Codax winery, named after one of the most important medieval Galician troubadours, was founded in 1986 thanks to the idea of a group of winegrowers; as a winery made by people for the people. Set up by 270 members, the winery also relies on the collaboration of 300 families whose grapes are supplied to us. As a big family, we work together in order to ensure our wines have the highest possible quality."


TASTING NOTES

VISUAL STEP

Clean, bright lemon yellow with greenish reflections
OLFACTORY STEP
Medium intensity with ripe citrus notes file type and tangerine. Predominant note floral (hawthorn, jasmine and orange blossom) and a herbal background type hay.
GUSTATORY STEP
Envelope, fresh and good balance. The aftertaste reminds the note of ripe citrus.




S. Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition is live!




Phase One of the S. Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition is live. As of the 1st of January until the 31st of March all young chefs across the globe will have the opportunity to submit their applications together with their signature dish via www.finedininglovers.com. Fingers crossed we’ll have another successful year this year, as last year’s winner was our own, Mark Moriarty.


WORLDWIDE SEARCH BEGINS FOR S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF 2016
Following the resounding success of its first year, S.Pellegrino announces
its new search for the best Young Chef, the successor to the 2015 winner, Ireland’s Mark Moriarty


23rd November, 2015 – Following a majorly successful first year with more than 3,000 applications submitted, S.Pellegrino—an ambassador of Italian taste and fine dining around the globe—is proud to launch S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016, the global scouting project to find the best young chef in the world.

In 2015, Ireland’s Mark Moriarty made history as the inaugural winner of the competition, wowing the judges with his Celeriac Baked in Barley and Fermented Hay and Cured and Smoked Celeriac with Toasted Hay Tea.

The unique initiative, dividing the world into 20 areas and involving around 100 top chefs as jurors across the globe, 20 young chef finalists, 20 chef mentors and a stellar chefs jury, reflects S.Pellegrino’s commitment to supporting emerging talents. Applications will start on 1st Jan 2916 onwww.finedininglovers.com.

Irish chef Mark Moriarty, winner of the 2015 edition, commented on his positive experience: “I was delighted and honoured to be named S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015. The journey was an unforgettable and one-off experience that I will never forget. I met so many fantastic chefs along the way and the title has made an incredible difference to my career as a whole”.

S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 will feature a renewed panel of judges, the Seven Sages, which will be responsible for selecting the most talented young chef of the world. The jury will be composed of some of the world’s most renowned culinary masters, such as David Higgs, Carlo Cracco, Gaggan Anand, Elena Arzak, Mauro Colagreco, Wylie Dufresne and Roberta Sudbrack.

S.Pellegrino Young Chef is a global competition has several different different phases.

Phase One - Online Application
From the 1st of January 2016 until March 31st , all young chefs across the globe will have the opportunity to submit their application together with their signature dish in English viawww.finedininglovers.com, the online magazine for food enthusiasts proudly endorsed by S.Pellegrino and Acqua PannaApplying young chefs must be no older than 30 and are required to have at least one year of experience working in a restaurant as chefs, sous chefs or chefs de partie.

Phase Two – Selection of Regional Shortlist and Regional Winner…
All candidates will be divided into 20 regions* according to their geographic origin, and their submissions will be evaluated by ALMA, the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian Cuisine (www.alma.scuolacucina.it). Throughout the month of April, ALMA will select the first ten finalists for each region following five Golden Rules: ingredients, skills, genius, beauty, and message.

…and Regional Finals (Phase Three)
The selected ten finalists of the 20 geographical areas will then move on to the Local Finals, where live competitions will be held locally in each region from the May 1st to August 15th. During these events, the area finalists will have to cook their signature dishes for an exclusive regional jury composed of independent top chefs, who will taste the dishes and select the winner, following the five Golden Rules. 

The selected ten finalists for each market will move on to the Local Finals, where live competitions will be held locally in each region from 1st May until 15th August. During these events, the area finalists will have to cook their signature dishes for an exclusive regional jury composed of independent top chefs, who will taste the dishes and select the winner, following the five Golden Rules.  The 2016 UK & Ireland judging panel includes fantastic chefs, such as Claude Bosi, Ollie Dabbous, Ireland’s JP McMahon of Aniar in Galway and Ross Lewis of Chapter One in Dublin.

By the end of August 2016, the 20 Best Regional Young Chefs from each world region will be announced as the official finalists. Each finalist will be assigned a Mentor Chef: a member of the regional jury, who will provide the young chefs with suggestions to improve their signature dishes and to help them prepare for the global finals. The UK & Ireland mentor chef will be two Michelin starred chef and owner of Hibiscus, Claude Bosi.

Phase Four – Grand Finale Event
On October 13th 2016, all the Young Chef finalists will gather in Milan for the final phase, which will consist of a two-days intense cooking competition in front of the international panel of judges, the Seven Sages, that will award the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016.

The complete contest regulation and the application form will be available onwww.finedininglovers.com. The e-magazine will cover also each local and international phase of the project with exclusive contents, including the Live Grand Final in Milan.

Follow the competition via hashtag #SPYoungChef to never miss an update on the event. 









*THE 20 REGIONS
1.       Italy
2.       France
3.       Germany-Austria
4.       Switzerland
5.       Spain-Portugal
6.       UK-Ireland
7.       Russia/Baltics/CIS (ex Soviet Union)
8.       Scandinavia (Norway/Sweden/Finland/Denmark)
9.       East Europe
10.   BeNeLux
11.   Med Countries
12.   USA
13.   Canada
14.   Africa-Middle East
15.   Latin America - Caribbean
16.   Pacific (Australia/NZ/Pacific Islands)
17.   China
18.   Japan
19.  Northeast Asia (South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Philippines)
20.   Southeast Asia (India, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Cambodia and Maldive)


THE PHASES OF THE PROJECT

PHASE ONE: ONLINE APPLICATION – January - March 2016
Any young chef in the world can submit their application together with their signature dish atwww.finedininglovers.comThe chefs must be no older than 30 and are required to have experience of at least one year working in a restaurant as a chef, sous chef or chef de partie. The complete list of requirements will be available on the website.

PHASE TWO: GLOBAL SHORTLIST – April 2016
All candidates will be divided according to their geographic origin, representing 20 regions total*. ALMA, the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian Cuisine (www.alma.scuolacucina.it), will then select from the online applications the first 10 finalists for each region, according to five Golden Rules: ingredients, skills, genius, beauty, and message.

1.                   INGREDIENTS: Successfully selecting the best of what the market has to offer with regards to quality, freshness and uniqueness.
2.                   SKILLS: Successfully handling and transforming raw materials into a finished dish that respects its original essence.
3.                   GENIUS: Successfully exploring inedited, inspiring, unexpected prospects/outlooks, connected with fine dining culture with a personal and contemporary style, while maintaining a perfect balance of tastes and shapes.
4.                   BEAUTY: Dish presentation is part of the charm.
5.                   MESSAGE: Successfully communicating a clear message through work and personal vision.

PHASE THREE: LOCAL CHALLENGES – May 1 – August 15, 2016
The 10 finalists of each area will have to compete during a local event: each region will have a jury composed by at least independent famous chefs that will taste the signature dishes of the finalists and choose the best one, always according to the 5 Golden Rules.  By the end of August the 20best young chefs from all the regions of the initiative will be announced.

FINAL PHASE: S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF FINAL  – October 13 – 15, 2016  
In October in Milan, S.Pellegrino will host the final event to celebrate the best young chefs who have competed. An international jury of famous chefs will award the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016. 

press release

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Christine - The Pastry Queen. Let The Sweet Things Reign

Christine - The Pastry Queen
Where The Sweet Things Reign.
La Spoon, the new domain of Cork pastry queen Christine Girault, is in Cross Street, at the side of the Courthouse between Washington Street and Liberty Street. If you hurry, you may still get an example of her Galette des Rois.
Galette des Rois? I’ll let Raymond Blanc explain: This dessert is only served once a year and every child in France is waiting for 6 January (Epiphany). To honor the Kings who traveled thousands of miles to welcome our Saviour…maybe a white lie! It was probably organized by an opportunistic pâtissier who saw the opportunity of a huge market. It is a marvelous party dessert as it is the custom to hide two little figurines in the almond cream. The ones who find them will become the King and Queen for the day and of course have all of their wishes realised.  Two crowns would be perfectly befitting the winners. It is also a remarkably simple dessert as you can buy the puff pastry and the almond cream takes just a few minutes to make. - See more here
 Not too sure what figurines you'll find in Christine’s galette. But you will certainly find quality, the same quality that you’ll see and taste in all her pastries and cakes. Here, in Cross Street, you may linger over one (or two) with a cup of coffee, perhaps sharing or, if you’re on your own, reading a chapter or two from the cafe’s John Grisham library.
 Now that the Christmas rush is over - Christine was busy making Buche de Noel and Christmas Logs and then the Galettes - she'll be concentrating on the smaller treats: Pain aux raisins, macaroons, brownies, lemon cake slices, various apple tarts and cakes, caramel slices, and strawberry cake slices, madelines and lots of chocolate stuff (including pain aux chocolat) and more. And do watch out for the occasional surprises: Brioche and butter pudding, for example.
La Spoon
Cross Street
Cork
087 648 1452
Opening hours: 8.30 to 4.30, Monday to Friday.

Monday, January 4, 2016

Taste of the Week. Watermelon Rind Pickle

Taste of the Week

Watermelon Rind Pickle
Watermelon Rind Pickle on Cashel Blue
Hadn't heard of this Watermelon Rind Pickle until Michael Creedon recommended it to me in Bradley’s, North Main Street, before Christmas. I was chasing cheeses and he told me that this was a brilliant match with blue.

I have never had a bum tip from Michael and this proved to be another winner. I meant to try it with his Wicklow Blue but that was sold out. In the meantime, I won a Cheese hamper in a Sheridan's Competition and that included a large piece of Cashel Blue, one of my all time favourites. The match was brilliant, no doubt about it. And it also went well with 15 Fields, a mature cheddar that was also in the hamper. Lucky me!

The pickle is by made by Passion Preserved, based in Ballinderry (between Lisburn and Lough Neagh), the idea coming from the southern states of the USA. This Dixie Delicacy takes three days to make. Try it with pork chops! Also in cocktails, wrapped in bacon and baked, even with ice-cream. They make a whole range of preserves, including Rhubarb and Date, Kasundi (spicy Indian), Sunchoke Relish (another from the southern states) and more. Check them all out here or at Bradley’s.


Friday, January 1, 2016

Amuse Bouche

The bitter tang of quinine, that’s what I love about a cold gin and tonic. Tonic water should be by Schweppes and it should come out of a glass bottle, not a plastic one. These pre-mixed things aren’t right at all, but needs must. I know I shouldn’t be doing this, but I’ve been building up to it all day. It’s not just the anticipation of solitude though, it’s the excitement, the adrenaline. I’m buzzing, my skin is tingling. I’ve had a good day.

from The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins (2015)

Thursday, December 31, 2015

Amuse Bouche

Karine arrived over with a bag stuffed with goodies: two chicken salad rolls, four packets of Taytos, handfuls of chocolate bars, tobacco and Rizla, a two-litre bottle of Coke and, best of the lot, a bag of pick ‘n mix as big as a baby’s head.
Ryan said, ‘You absolute lasher, D’Arcy,’ and she rolled her eyes and said, ‘You’d better remember this when you’re rich and famous.

from The Glorious Heresies by Lisa McInerney (2105)

Twelve Great Food Days 2015

Twelve Great Food Days 2015
One Day’s Eating or Drinking or Both each Month!
Charcuterie by Krawczyk




Deep in Midleton distillery


April: From Power With Love. A Persian Dinner. Gorgeous. Generous
Highbank blossoms


June: All White on the Night. Al Fresco Dining in Cork City
Diamond in Dublin

August: Ballymaloe Garden Festival. 22-23 August 2015
Ballymaloe. Plants for sale.

September: My place of belonging is West Cork. Frank Krawczyk

October: Italian Night at Farmgate. Umbria & Valtellina Combine
Hoping for lunch at Longueville

December: Square Table Excellent2

Salmon at Bastion (Kinsale)