Wednesday, February 20, 2013

The Strawberry Field


The Strawberry Field
Sneem

On the road from Sneem (Co. Kerry) to Moll’s Gap, there is a place called A Strawberry Field  where you will find Pancake Cottage, which is open all year round. The views from the garden are splendid but not so last Saturday as the rain was coming and going.
Warm inside Pancake Cottage

We had earlier called to Sneem for a quick walk around, having a look at only some the many sculptures in the little town and also at the river as it rushed under the bridge. Then we took that rising road and enjoyed some decent views, despite the cloud kissing the mountain tops.
The Garden

The Strawberry Field is nearer Moll’s Gap than Sneem and is on the left hand side. We just had time for a cup of coffee (Illy) and never got to the pancakes. And that may be just as well as we’d have definitely missed our appointment in Killarney.
Pancake Cottage

The selection of toppings just goes on and on, sweet and savoury and also a kids menu. Our friend in Killarney told us she stopped there once for one and ended up eating a series, her ultimate destination never reached. It is that kind of place.
The Lakes

There is some home-baking here also, including scones and a traditional Dutch apple pie, good teas and coffees and soft drinks, including water from their own well, soup also. In addition, there is a side room that contains a little craft shop, with photos, paintings and craft products for sale.

But we resisted, promising ourselves we’d call again, and headed on to Moll’s Gap and eventually to our meeting in Killarney and a lovely lunch in Treyvaud’s. Not a bad half-day’s work!

Warm Welcome in Mulcahy’s

Warm Welcome in Mulcahy’s

Walked in off the cold of Henry Street to the warmth of Mulcahy’s Restaurant one evening last week. For a second or two, thought there was no one home but that was just the dim lighting in the Kenmare restaurant.

The cold outside was soon forgotten and, after a warm welcome, we were shown to our comfortable seats and, now accustomed to the lighting (it wasn't that dim!), began to study the menu, with the helpful staff reminding us of the specials board and also advising us of one or two minor changes.


Sampled a couple of tasty breads as we began to make our minds up and indeed there was also a lovely Amuse Bouche, goats cheese and beetroot, delivered to the table.

There were seven or eight starters to choose from, including the soup at €5.50. I picked the Hen Egg, twice cooked, Asparagus, Iberico Ham and Garlic Hollandaise (€7.50). Quite a combination of tastes and textures but really well balanced. The other starter also went down very well indeed. It was that bit different: Cannelloni, Prawn, Salmon and Lobster, Bisque, and Parmesan (11.00). 


They use a great deal of local produce here and fish is obviously going to feature strongly. Again there were seven of eight choices for mains and three were fish: Halibut, Scallop and Lemon Sole. We weren’t complaining. On the contrary!

Halibut doesn’t feature that much on local menus so this was my pick: Roast Halibut, Mussel, Bacon and Clam Cream (26.00). Excellent, as was the side dish of vegetables and potato, included in the price.


The same veg was included in CL’s choice: Lemon Sole with Tomato Brown Butter (22.00).  This is cooked on the bone and served whole. Takes a bit more “work” with the knife and fork but well worth it!

Each of the desserts on the short list costs seven euro, though you’ll pay two more for the cheese plate. Some interesting choices here and I gave it a bit of thought before picking the Rhubarb Mille Feuille. The photo will give you an idea with the rhubarb, in a form of ice cream, between the pastry layers. Very enjoyable, a kind of low key sweet and sharp! CL went for the equally delicious Passion fruit Soufflé with Honeycomb ice cream.



Finished off with a cup of tea. They were out of my favourite Rooibos so I switched to Earl Grey and that was no hardship! There is a big enough wine list here, with some expensive ones, but I settled for a glass of a crisp De Martino Sauvignon Blanc (Chile) that went well with the fish.

Head Chef Bruce Mulcahy is back and Mulcahy’s are once again known as Mulcahy’s with the short-lived Wild Garlic title now redundant. So there you have it. To find them, go to Henry Street, Kenmare, though you may have to park some distance away as the town is short on parking spaces.


36 Henry Street, Kenmare
Hours Thu - Sun: 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm
Phone (064) 664 2383

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Enjoyable Eating at BT Dublin


Eating at BT Dublin
Parmesan crusted chicken
Shop ‘til you drop they say but there really is no need to go that far, especially if you are in the Brown Thomas Store in Dublin. Here they have a superb in-house restaurant on the third level, run by the sisters Peaches and Domini Kemp. It is a stylish bright area with stylish bright food but the style is always accompanied by a genuine substance, much of the food locally sourced. Service is really excellent and the seating is comfortable, toilets nearby.

Had a lovely lunch there recently. Had a great mix on the plate: Parmesan crusted free-range Irish chicken, sautéed potatoes, shallot and tomato dressing, and rocket. At €17.50 it was the most expensive dish on the menu but well worth it.


Goat cheese salad

Warm Fivemiletown Goat Cheese salad with Puy Lentils, roast beetroot, baby spinach, micro herbs and roast hazelnuts was another lovely plateful, priced at €15.90, and thoroughly enjoyed by CL. They have a great choice of mains, including Pasta of the Day, Asian spiced crab cakes and Soy and Ginger glazed salmon.

CL went for the healthy dessert option, quite a colourful and tasty one: Raw energy fruit salad – pineapple, mango, grapes, melon and mixed berries (6.90). I didn’t have the energy for that so settled for large cookie and a great cup of coffee. Back to the shopping after that enjoyable interlude!

By the way, the Kemp sisters also run the restaurant in the Brown Thomas store in Cork. Must check it out!

On the way west? Fill up at Manning's!

If you're heading for the Healy Pass, call to Manning's in Ballylickey to fuel up.
Full story and more pics here

Monday, February 18, 2013

Top Irish Beers at Bradley’s

Top Irish Beers at Bradley’s
Blackrock stout
at the Cliff Town House

While in Bradley’s recently (always recently!), I had an enjoyable chat with Michael Creedon about the amount of Irish beers now on the market and we began to discuss our favourites and also the top selling beers from the dozens and dozens available in the North Main Street store.

So we went to work on a few lists but decided to leave out seasonal beers, which we both enjoy. In the past couple of months, I was delighted whenever I had a glass of A Winter’s Ale (8 Degree Brewing) or one of the Dungarvan Coffee and Oatmeal Stout in my hand. Draught beers – the Tom Crean lager and the Franciscan Well’s Friar Weisser are among my current favourites – were also left out of these lists.
When it comes to bottled Irish, I have a grá for the black stuff. The boys out in Blair’s introduced me to the Blackrock Stout by the Dungarvan Brewing Company the best part of a year back and it has been a firm favourite since.

And it was in Blair’s also that I met the folks from the West Kerry Brewing Company. I had already made the acquaintance of their Carraig Dubh porter and that too is building up into a long term relationship.
When it comes to ales, I have a preference for the wheat beers. Not too many bottled in Ireland but one that is and one that I really like is Curim by the Carlow Brewing Company.

Don’t think I’ve really made up my mind about a favourite among the regular ales. The current top choice is the Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale but I’m open to offers!



 In any case, I mustn’t be drinking enough of them as none of mine have made the best sellers list in Bradley’s where the current top four selling Irish craft beers are:

O’Hara’s Irish Pale Ale (abv 5.2%)
This pale ale has a light malt base with just the right mouth feel to allow the hop character to predominate. Grapefruit like bitterness is full and lasting and is balanced by a zesty citrus burst of aroma from the late addition of cascade hops. The Citrus flavours give way at the end to the floral, spicy bitterness of Amarillo hops.

Eight Degrees Howling Gale Ale (abv 5%)
It pours a pale golden colour and the malty sweetness is well balanced by the American Chinook, Amarillo and Centennial hops. Howling Gale has a pleasant grapefruit and citrus aroma and goes well with fish, chicken or anything off the barbeque.

Porterhouse Brewing Hop Head (abv 4.8%)
A fulsome, winsome strong ale. A deep copper tinged brew for the true aficionado, longer fermentation and thrice hopping bring about a complex soft bitterness allied to a malt induced sweetness with the characteristic oily Fuggles hop perfume.

Dark Arts Porter, 500ml (abv 4.4%)
 A dark, almost black porter, named for the part of the brewing process not quite covered by science.
Dark Arts is brewed using a healthy dose of Black malt and Chocolate malt, to add to the flavour as well as to give the beer its dark colour. This unfiltered porter has a clear roasty flavour, but with hints of caramel and chocolate, while maintaining enough bitter hop presence to preserve its balance.


 I wasn't letting Michael Creedon off the hook and asked him to pick the “house” favourites: “Our favourite Irish craft beers and the ones we like to recommend change with the seasons and even with our mood! Ones we’re really enjoying at the moment include -

White Gypsy Belgian Dubell (abv 8%)
A dry slightly spicy beer with a fruity finish. An excellent choice for grilled oily fish like tuna and salmon.

Dungarvan Brewing Helvick Gold Blonde Ale (abv 4.9%)
 A great introduction to the world of craftbeer, this blonde ale is not a bland ale. There is a complexity at play here with a fruity aroma balanced by a hoppiness that makes it a slightly challenging but still quite easy to drink beer.

O’Hara’s Leann Folláin (abv 6%)
O’Hara’s Leann Folláin Stout is laden with complex chocolate and coffee flavours balanced by a robust bitterness and delicate spicy aroma imparted from the generous portions of Northdown and Fuggle Hops.

Eight Degrees Brewing Knockmealdown Porter (abv 5%)
 A robust malt-driven ale balances dark malts with some old world bitter hops. It won’t weigh you down like a stout and offers a rich chocolaty aroma with a burst of espresso.

Now, what are your top four?

Sheen Shines on Valentine’s

Sheen Shines on Valentine’s
Campari in the bar
Sheen Falls Lodge was the classy venue for this year’s Valentine’s Night outing and it turned out to be a cracking meal, though there was not, thankfully, a special menu for the night. A new season just started, new owners and some new staff, saw us get off to a rather slow start but, soothed by an excellent meal and the live piano music, we were very happy at the end.

Enjoyed a drink in the bar, in the Sun Lounge to be precise, before heading to La Cascade Restaurant, nicely lit and furnished and very well staffed and a decent crowd in. First surprise was a very tasty Amuse Bouche: herb baked oyster in shell accompanied by a lively Bloody Marie shot. The taste buds were up and running.



Now for the starters. From a choice of six, I picked the Home Smoked Salmon and Citrus Marinated Sea Trout, served on a crispy coriander sesame flat bread with fresh horse-radish. Very colourful and tasty with the razor flat bread adding a contrasting texture.

The other starter was also well received and that was Confit Pork Belly and Black Pudding with Pear Vanilla Compote and jus, with a liquorish yoghurt. The first three provided a perfect combination while the yoghurt didn’t add much. 

We both started off the wines with a rosé from Provence: Noas, Château Ferry Lacombe 2010 (€9.00 a glass). Not too many people drink rosé during the Irish winter but this was well up to the task. For the mains, I switched to an unremarkable, though quite drinkable, Navara Principe de Viana Crianza Tempranillo 2008 (€7.50 a glass) while CL was very pleased with the Alain Geoffroy 2011 Petit Chablis (€10.00 a glass).

My mains was just perfect: Fillet of Beef with Sautéed artichoke, pommes dauphine and red wine jus. CL was more than pleased with the Pan-fried Cod Fillet, beetroot tarragon sauce, bacon lardons, sweet potato rosti and winter vegetables.


Grand Marnier Marinated Strawberries with Iced Champagne.


The break between mains and dessert was sweetly filled by the sorbet, a really top class one, a little glass containing Champagne ice, Grand Marnier and Strawberries. More like a mini-dessert than your normal sorbet!

Took our time making a pick from the six or so desserts on offer. CL went for the Irish Whiskey and Golden Raisin crème Brûlée with Guinness Ice Cream while my choice was the much more sober Fig Beignets with Fromage Blanc Mousse and Berry Compote, both excellent, especially when matched with superb dessert wines. 

For me it was the Muscat de Rivesaltes Domaine des Schistes 2009  (Languedoc-Roussillon) while for her it was Domaine Chiroulet, Soleil d’Automne 2007 (Gascoigne), each at €9.00 per glass.

It was a long evening but all too soon it was time to settle up, get the coats on (they do that for you here) and head for the taxi.





The basic 3 course meal in this restaurant will cost you €65.00.



Sunday, February 17, 2013

Island Bakery to open in Delgany


Island Bakery bringing it's “Bread Revolution” 
to the mainland 

Recession, what  recession? This may be an exception, but on Heir Island off the Coast of West Cork, business is going from strength to strength for The Firehouse Bakery & Bread School.

It is not yet 9 months since The Firehouse Bakery opened its doors and in that time Patrick Ryan and Laura Moore (left) have seen people from all walks of life turning up at Cunnamore Pier to take the short ferry journey to beautiful Heir Island for a days bread making. Some have come out of interest, others out of intrigue but everyone has left with a renewed passion for real bread and as much baked goods as they can carry.

Laura says “ We have been overwhelmed by the support and interest which we have received since  our doors opened on June 30th. Even through the depths of winter people have been coming, something we never expected”

But this appears to be only the beginning for the West Cork duo as plans are under way to bring their 'Bread Revolution' to the mainland. In early April Patrick will be expanding his Firehouse bakery to Delgany in Co. Wicklow with the opening of a new bakery, coffee house and patisserie.

With an open plan bakery everything that goes into your loaf will be on show for all to see. “Real bread is bread that has nothing to hide” says Patrick. “Pick yourself up a loaf, grab a cheeky pastry or simply sit back and watch the world go by, we intend to bring a bit of island life with us”

Based on the site of the old Delgany Inn The Firehouse bakery is teaming up with Emma Stone of The Romany stone and Jackie Spillane to create a go to destination. Spread over two floors 'The Delgany will offer a bakery, café, coffee house, grocery and restaurant. The concept is based on quality, local, seasonal produce but most importantly reasonably priced. What we intend to offer says Patrick “Is comfort food with a touch of class”

Firehouse bakery will continue to offer regular one day hands on baking courses from their home on Heir Island  as they intend to extend their offering to include 1 on 1 baking days as well as family baking; where adults and kids bake together.

Looking ahead to 2013 Patrick says “ It looks like the plan to hide out on a beach in Thailand till summer may have to wait”

The Firehouse Bakery's  'Bread revolution' is currently seeking recruits. Real bread bakers, pastry chefs, baristas and passionate foodies get in touch at Info@thefirehouse.ie

Amuse Bouche



Pomus could not get over how some of Spector’s nuttiest habits were so commonplace to the young man.

“One thing he did was, he carried this briefcase around with him all the time. And . That was it. He’d break off a piece of bread and sit there eating and he was the happiest guy in the world. We used put him on, ‘cause he was so funny. But he was very smart and politically oriented too. You couldn’t figure him out, whether he was putting you on.”

From: He’s a Rebel (Phil Spector) by Mark Ribowsky.

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Food and Drink Spotting


Food and Drink Spotting

With all the love in the February air, this Taste of the Week just had to be a sweet one. Had earlier opened a bottle of Vin Doux Naturel Rasteau to pair it with that beautiful new St Tola Goat Cheese in the Lorge Chocolate case and still had a lot of it left. What now to match it with?
 I had the answer all along. When I bought the bottle, the lady in the Rasteau shop said chocolate and indeed if I remember rightly I sampled some there in that lovely part of the lower Rhone. Off then last Saturday to the English Market and called to Niall Daly at The Chocolate Shop.
What a selection! Had a little chat with the man himself and soon I was on the way home with a pack of Valrhona Grands Crus, a dark bitter-sweet chocolate with 70% cacao.
With the dinner finished, I tried out the match, the dark chocolate and sweet fortified red wine. And I was very happy with it. That lady in Rasteau knew her stuff. The chocolate, already quite a lovely mouthful, had its best qualities enhanced by the wine. Taste of the Week, without a doubt!


Coal Quay Convenience

You don’t have to go to your big supermarket for convenience shopping. Last Saturday found me at the far end of the Coal Quay Farmer’s Market, down towards the north channel of the river.

Didn’t have too much time to spare and most of that was spent in the line for O’Driscoll’s fish. Didn’t resent a bit of it as the fish is so fresh, the value outstanding. Got enough West Cork hake for three for six euro.

The stand across the way was Caroline’s, a very popular fruit and vegetable stall, and here I helped myself to a bunch of leeks. A few yards away was a well known face though new to the Coal Quay. Mark of Ballyhoura Mushrooms, well known at the main farmers markets, now has a stall here every Saturday.

While packing some of those colourful Oysters mushrooms, rose in this case, he told how he thoroughly enjoyed the Foodie Forum held earlier that week in Galway and was very impressed with North Cork chefs Bryan McCarthy and the up and coming Jack O’Keeffe.

So there you are, a few pleasant minutes passed and dinner in the bag. Convenient or what!


Shorts

O'Donovans Off Licence
The Irish Examiner recently reviewed Club Brasserie very favourably…we’ve chosen it for our Cork Supper Club event, an association of fine food and wine presented by Jane Ferrari. Tickets are €50 per person including all of the wine selected to go with each course. Call Rose or Deirdre to book on 0214296060, places are limited so book soon!


Breaking News from the Bringing The Wine Geese Home Front.........New Website is now up and running with a diary of upcoming events, so you won't miss out on any of the action!
Check it out on: http://bringingthewinegeesehome.wordpress.com/

Roz Crowley ‏@RozCrowley1
You did well with the mince pies, but how are your choccy cake skills? http://youtu.be/RkyQ8qad-CY   Gauntlet thrown! #cakeoff

Porterhouse Food Menu available from Monday 11th February!

To celebrate we will be offering 2 for 1 on all main courses at the Mardyke from Monday the 11th to Sunday 17th February.
(Pre - Book offer only)
Ph:             021 4273000      .

Valentine’s Tiramisu from Hong Kong 

Baby Pancakes Brunch, anyone? Follow the link to learn this mouth-watering recipe! http://thekarmickitchen.blogspot.com/2011/02/southern-saturday-with-virginia.html

Flemings Restaurant - Valentine's 6 course menu.... Cappuccino of Wild Mushrooms with truffle .....and that is just the 1st course......tempted? Only a few tables left for Friday and Saturday!

Cookwithavonmore.ie has teamed up with Clontarf Castle to offer one lucky visitor a chance to win a romantic break with dinner for two at the luxurious Clontarf Castle in Dublin ...

Caroline@Bibliocook ‏@Bibliocook One for the diary: off to @BallymaloeCS next Tues 19 Feb for @8degreesbrewing talk, tasting and food matching... http://fb.me/u53x3G5A




Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Quality and Value at Toscana

Quality and Value at Toscana

Warm colours outside and a warm welcome inside. That was the experience at Toscana in Dublin’s Dame Street last week. And it didn’t flatter to deceive as I enjoyed a really good lunch at this city centre Italian restaurant, established over a decade ago.

Had a good look at their lunch offer of two courses for ten euro. You could pick from four starters and seven main courses. But since we were on a break and had time to spare we picked from the A La Carte which went way beyond the normal pasta and pizza lists.


Pollo
 I settled on their Pollo alla Toscana: Chicken Supreme with Spinach, Three Cheeses, wrapped in Parma Ham and served with a white wine and mustard cream (€16.95). I was given a choice of sides and went for their salad. Must say I thoroughly enjoyed this light and tasty dish and that salad.

Most of their fresh produce (vegetables and salads) comes from their own farm (in Wicklow) and not too many restaurants can say that. CL ordered the Duck Salad (€16.75) which consisted of warm fresh duck, rocket and mixed leaves, sun ripened cherry tomatoes, sweet balsamic and parmesan shavings. Another substantial plateful and a really satisfying one.

They have many menus here so it is well worth checking out the website before you go. And there is no shortage of choice on the wine front either, the vast majority of it from Italy. If you are going by the glass, you have four choices in red and four in white, but, if you are going by the bottle, you could be a while making up your mind as the wines come from all parts, from the north to the south and not forgetting the islands!

Duck Salad

The place is neat and tidy and the wall decor consists of large black and white photos of Italian characters going about their daily lives, not the film stars you sometimes see in Italian restaurants. The place can cater for couples or larger groups and I would like to go back there by night as I reckon you’d have a great atmosphere, especially on Sunday when a singer entertains.

Service is friendly and efficient and the prices are reasonable for the excellent quality delivered to your table. Definably worth a try.

Dame Street - Opposite Dublin Castle, Dublin 2.
Hours
Mon - Thu: 12:00 pm - 11:00 pm
Fri - Sat: 12:00 pm - 12:00 am
Sun: 12:00 pm - 11:00 pm
Phone (01) 670 9785
Email damestreet@toscanarestaurant.ie

Wine Geese Land at L’Atitude


Wine Geese Land at L’Atitude

Some distinguished wine landed at L’Atitude 51 last evening with Jane Boyce MW in charge of the seven strong group, aided and abetted by Conor O’Brien of James Nicholson Wines .

Jane, a superb commentator all through, kept the best ‘til last: Chateau Langoa Barton 2008 (St Julian, Bordeaux) and Chateau Phelan Segur 2005 (St Estephe, Bordeaux).

Maybe because it has three years on its younger rival and maybe because 2005 was “a fantastic year” most of the audience preferred the Phelan Segur to its “less developed” left bank rival, not that I’d have turned either of these Medoc wines.

You may see the fantastic Phelan story here. The Barton site is under repair, methinks, but there is a terrific account of the Irish family here.

We got off to a great start with a glass of one of the oldest sparkling wines in the world, this from a vineyard started “by a Dutchman and a West Cork lady”: Rives-Blanques Blanquette Limoux 2009 (Limoux, France). Top class, lots of tiny bubbles that kept coming, and half the price of champagne.

Now for an even lighter pink, this time the still rosée from Chateau Vignelaure La Source 2011 (Provence), from a vineyard restored from the ruins about 20 years back by Kathleen and David O’Brien (of the famous horse training family). The current Dutch owners value the Irish connection.

Australia’s Clare Valley is named after the Irish county and provided us with the next wine: Pikes Riesling 2012. Jane explained that, with Riesling, the moment of harvesting is critical, the wine being made more in the vineyard than in the winery. They sure got it right with this one.
There was a County Tyrone connection with the final white, the Domaine Sainte Rose Barrel fermented Roussanne 2009 (Languedoc, France), but there was quite a split in the audience here as quite a few didn’t like the oak. It certainly had the toast and honey but was really well balanced with the “backlash of a spicy hot finish”. Jane recommended matching it with char-grilled food and also smoked salmon and so on.

Alan Brady, a newspaper man from the foothills of the Mourne Mountains is credited with starting Pinot Noir cultivation in New Zealand. He was told he was mad as “this is a very difficult variety to grow”. Last night’s audience, who enjoyed some delicious canapés all through, were glad that Alan stuck with and I think everyone enjoyed the Mount Edward Pinot Noir 2008 from Central Otago in New Zealand.

And then it was on to the splendid conclusion. But as that evening ended the Bringing the Wine Geese committee stayed behind to plan ahead. Some great evenings have already been lined up and many more are in the planning stage, all under the umbrella of The Gathering.

If you have any ideas, big or small, on the Irish wine connection, then why not get in touch. Just to get an idea of what is in the pipeline, please check out the list here.

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Hugel 2011: My kind of Riesling


Hugel 2011: My kind of Riesling






Hugel Riesling 2011, Alsace (France), 12.5%, €19.99 at Bradley’s Off Licence

Nothing is left to chance by the Hugel family, whose winegrowing tradition in the very centre of Alsace goes back to 1639. The Michelin Wine Regions of France gives the demanding details: “Meticulous harvesting and wine-making methods include the absence of fertilisers, hand-picked grapes, ruthless selection of stock and voluntary restricted yields.”

Sounds pretty severe but one of the result is this Riesling gem.

This is a bright wine, with a mainly straw colour with hints of green. The nose is fresh and fruity and on the palate it is beautiful and fresh and absolutely dry. A lovely, lively example of the variety with a citrus tinged finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Friendly Folks at the Cliff Town House

Cliff Town House (Dublin)
Chicken parfait
 I was back in Dublin last week for the friendly international against Poland and my base was the Cliff Town House  in St Stephen’s Green. And a fine base it was.

It is in a terrific location, for the Aviva (a brisk twenty minute walk away but also a line of taxis just outside the hotel door), and more so for some of the main city attractions including St Stephen’s Green itself. The Little Museum of Dublin is almost next door. Leinster House and the National Gallery are nearby with Trinity College and the Book of Kells a little further. Dublin Castle, now (Jan-Jun) busy with EU 2013, is also within walking distance and I haven’t even mentioned the shops!

Breakfast
 We were welcomed warmly as we arrived on Wednesday afternoon and the same friendliness continued throughout the stay. The room was fine and comfortable and well equipped. With the game on that evening, we didn’t really have time for the big dinner but we were glad to see a pre-theatre menu on offer between 5.30 and 6.30pm.

We took the two course option for twenty euro and were very happy with it. CL enjoyed her Chicken Liver Parfait, Madeira Jelly, Vanilla Puree, with toasted Brioche while the Donegal Fish Soup (with Saffron and Garlic Mayonnaise) was unexpectedly spicy and exactly what was required to put the taste buds on full alert in the cold weather.

Donegal Soup
 And no shortage of heat either in the main dish: Cod, Puy Lentils, Bacon and (a spicy) Salsa Verde. Really enjoyed this, the soft freshness of the fish and the contrasting crunch of the lentils and the bacon. Off to the Aviva then. On our return, the bar was very quiet but I did enjoy a bottle of Blackrock Stout from Dungarvan (Town House is closely related to Ardmore’s Cliff House Hotel).
There was a good choice for breakfast but I passed on the traditional Dubliner offering (a.k.a. the full Irish) and followed a bowl of fruit and a glass of juice with a delicious plateful of smoked salmon and scrambled egg. Ready then for another day on the town!

Monday, February 11, 2013

Intense Ehrhard Riesling and Fresh Verdelho

Intense Ehrhard Riesling
 and Fresh Verdelho
Lucky to have hit the jackpot with two recent whites, a superb Riesling from German master Carl Ehrhard and also a fresh and fruity Verdelho from Portugal.



Carl Ehrhard Riesling, Rheingau 2008, 12.5% abv, €16.47 Karwig Wines 

No shy nose here as an intense mix of floral and fruit aromas come to meet your proboscis. Colour is somewhere between lemon and gold and you’ll see micro bubbles clinging to the glass.

The palate experience is quite intense, the fruit fills the mouth and stays all the way to the lengthy and eventually dry finish. It is well balanced, delicious and digestible and Very Highly Recommended.

With great acidity and a strong streak of lime it should be a perfect match with Asian cuisine.

I recently purchased “The Finest Wines of Germany” by Stephan Reinhardt. Amazingly, the book, which profiles dozens of German producers, cannot find space for Carl Ehrhard himself but there is high praise for the area: “We might say that the Rudesheimer Berg is the crowning glory of the central Rheingau”.

Rudesheimer is the village of this wine and the vineyard, formidably steep, is Berg Rottland. The author says he has omitted many of the area’s producers, accusing them of “a rather blind pride”. Would really like to see a discussion between Herr Reinhardt and Herr Ehrhard.

But, just to cover myself, I’ll also be seeking out some of wines from the producers that did make the book, one of series that make excellent reading for anyone interested in good wine.

A few German wine words:
Spätlese – late harvested.
Trocken – dry.
Bereich – a wine district. There are 13 German wine regions, divided into 41 bereiche.
Riesling – Germany’s number one variety for quality and quantity.

Adego de Pegoes, Verdelho 2011, Portugal.
Unusually, the winemaker, Jaimie Quendera, is mentioned on the back label. Adega de Pegoes has produced and bottled quality wines since its establishment in 1958.

The Verdelho grape is not very familiar to me but some of you may know as one of the grapes associated with Madeira. This mainland use by Quendera is quite a treat, quite a treat for me also as I was given it as a present.

It is light gold with green tints and the nose is mildly aromatic. The palate is full of fresh fruit flavours that, with some traces of sweetness, reverberate around the mouth before a lingering dry finish. They say this particular wine has been fermented at 150, the better “to preserve all the freshness”. Recommended with fish, seafood and salads.
Highly recommended.




Green Saffron Videos


Green Saffron Spices

I am always been impressed by the way Midleton’s Green Saffron  treat their customers at the local farmers markets. There might well be a queue building up but if you are at the front and have a query, Arun will give you his full attention and all the info you want to make the best use of his sensational spices, freshly imported. And not just Arun, as the same standard of service is also provided by all at Green Saffron.

And if you are still in doubt, they will have an explanatory leaflet for you to take away to help you make your Korma Sauce or Murgh Tandoori or any of dozens of spicy meals. Armed with the info and the ingredients, you'll find it so simple to cook up a fresh and authentic Indian storm.

And now, it has got even easier. If you’d like a little extra help with your spicy cooking, check out the new videos of Arun rustling up some great meals with his spices and sauces here. Arun is delighted with the way they have turned out: “A big thank you to Robin Murray of Nomos Productions for creating them. Let us know what you think.”

Don’t delay. Check them out today. Already a dozen videos have been posted and more are promised. And while on the site, why not check out the dozens and dozens of recipes already there. Spice up your life!

And not with just any old spices. The difference in Green Saffron is that the spices are brought in whole from farms in their native lands and the fresh spices are mixed into beautiful blends so that you can make a delicious Indian meal in your home kitchen. Variety is the spice of life and Green Saffron has both the variety and spice and you may also buy online. Well worth checking out.





Friday, February 8, 2013

Yalumba's Jane Ferarri Comes to Town!

Yalumba's Jane Ferarri Comes to Town!
Really looking forward to this one. Yalumba's Jane Ferarri is a terrific speaker on wine, very knowledgeable but down to earth and full of good humour. She likes her sport too and, indeed, I reckon it is no coincidence that she is here right smack in the middle of the Six Nations Championship. Not alone does she like her sport, she also likes her sportsmen. Last time she was here, she told me (and the whole room) that her (then) current favourite was Ronan O'Gara!
Gary O'Donovan has lined up a fantastic speaker and Club Brasserie have a very tempting menu indeed for you on the 19th. 


Click on menu to enlarge



Food and Drink Spotting

Butterflied Chicken at Lee Valley lunch.
Food and Drink Spotting

Deals in Meals

Came across some good deals in meals this week, starting with a lunchtime visit to the Lee Valley Golf Club . They have a two for one offer on a list of main courses that includes a couple of chicken dishes and some Asian dishes (including Thai curries). Most come in about a tenner. The two for one offer is on for the rest of this month but only on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

There is an Italian Restaurant in Dublin, on Dame Street, opposite Castle Hill, called Toscana  and here you may enjoy a two course lunch for just a tenner. Quite a nice place and the deal includes still or sparkling water or a soft drink. You have five starters and eight mains to choose from.

If you are in Dublin and indeed an early evening meal then head for the Cliff Town House  on St Stephen’s Green (north). Here, between 5.30 and 6.30pm, you can enjoy a gorgeous top notch two course meal for twenty euro (3 for €25.00). Plenty of choice here also and I certainly enjoyed it on my way to see Ireland beat Poland.

Bord Bia - Irish Food Board

Would you be interested in becoming a future leader in the Irish food, drink & horticulture industry? We are seeking applications to fill 25 positions in an exciting unique year-long career enhancing scholarship programme which offers the opportunity to work on behalf of Irish food companies in overseas markets while completing an MSc International Marketing Practice. Check out this opportunity on www.smurfitschool.ie/bordbia




O'Callaghan's Delicatessen & Café

Don't forget we're open next Saturday Night, February 16 with 'O'Callaghan's at Nite'. We have a seasonal tasting menu prepared. It’s suitable for Valentines to take your loved one out but it is most certainly not confined to Valentines! There is no theme!!! Call 025-24657 to book your place. We have gotten so much positive feedback to all our other Tasting Nites so why not come and see what the fuss is about?! You won't be disappointed, I promise!

O’Donovan’s Off Licence

Gary O' Donovan is getting all romantic for Valentine's Day..Here is what he's recommending for the big day.."Champagne Jacquart Rose N/V half price at €29.99, The Red berry aromas give way to notes of plum on the nose. Tastes fresh and full and has a fine finish with notes of peach and apricot, I also recommend Yellow Tail Bubbles N/V €12.99.Here is a wine that offers awesome flavour, fizzy texture and a hint of sweetness to make drinking effortless. Pop the cork, away you go! Simple. Aromas of vibrant tropical fruits, a dash of lime juice and a hint of fresh cut flowers. Flavours of soft, creamy fizz with a little tropical fruit sweetness for good measure" You heard it here first...now you can impress your other half with your vast knowledge! We won't tell!

Shorts

Douglas Tea Room. 

Have you tried our three course €20 meal? We open late every Fri & Sat, getting lovely feedback so far!

Ballymaloe House
The annual RNLI fundraising dinner in aid of the Ballycotton lifeboat will take place at the Grainstore, Ballymaloe on Friday the 15th of February. Live music after dinner with Finnegan's Wake. Tickets are still available and cost €70. For more information or to purchase tickets, contact Blaitnaid on 0874151475/ Details here https://www.facebook.com/ballymaloe

Cafe Paradiso

Chefs and student chefs who would like to do a stage in the Paradiso kitchen will be interested to hear that we've put a bit of organised structure to the process. Even more so to hear that we now have accommodation overhead for out of town stagieres...http://www.cafeparadiso.ie/jobs

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Lovely Meal at Raymond’s

Lovely Meal at Raymond’s
 Enjoyed a smashing meal at Raymond’s Restaurant in Midleton last week. The restaurant is easily found as it is on the way in to the Jameson Experience. It is a day and night bistro where you may enjoy lunch (including Sundays) and evening meals (including an Early Bird option).

 Highlight for me was my main course: Roast Half Free Range Duck with Walnut Stuffing, Apricot and Apple Compote and Jus. The duck was cooked to perfection and the Apricot and Apple was a brilliant foil. Besides, the side plate of seasonal vegetables were also spot-on.
 The same side plate also accompanied the other main dish on the table: Roast Cod with Green Beans and a Citrus Butter Sauce. The fish was fresh, after all it came from neighbouring Ballycotton, and again the sauce was spot-on.

Don’t usually go for breaded mussels but was glad that I did so on this occasion as we both thoroughly enjoyed the Baked Mussels Stuffed with a Garlic, Almond and Herb Crust. The excellent salad and also a small helping of tomato salsa helped no end towards the enjoyment.

 Raymond’s has quite an extensive wine list but I settled for a glass of the wine of the month, a lively citrusy blend of Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc from the Languedoc called Le Petit Balthazar (€6.00)

That was well polished off  by the time the desserts came. I had my eye on the Date and Butterscotch Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream from the start and it certainly didn’t let me down. A gorgeous sweet swallow! The other dessert, Mixed Berry Roulade with Fruit Coulis and Ice Cream, was really well made and also very nice indeed.


I finished off with a cup of coffee but if you like green tea or decaffeinated coffee, just ask. They don’t appear on the menu but they do serve them. The atmosphere in the nicely lit and spacious restaurant was excellent, a good buzz as they say, and the service was friendly and efficient. Certainly worth a call either for lunch or dinner.

Raymond’s Restaurant
Distillery Walk, Midleton
 +353 (0)21 4635235      
info@raymonds.ie
Check out the menus here http://www.raymonds.ie

Amuse Bouche

I crave red apples and corn soup, and have flashbacks of my primary-school friend Rongrong selling hot rabbit heads outside the Red Flag Cinema in Qingdao. I see the heads steaming in her saucepan. You could buy four heads for a mao. – From Red Dust by Ma Jian.

Monday, February 4, 2013

The Italian at the Mardyke

The Italian at the Mardyke

Rico’s  is Riccardo Vallebella’s latest Italian venture in Cork and I called in last week to sample his “familiar mix of fresh fast real food at good prices.”

After a warm welcome at the reception desk, we studied the menu and picked our starters: Bresaola (Beef Carpaccio and rocket salad) and Caprese (Mozzarella and Tomato salad), each at €6.50. Both were very well presented and really enjoyable.






Moved on then to the main courses where you are more or less confined to either pasta or pizza, though with  a good choice of each, all around the €12.50 mark, give or take a euro or so.
 Here I choose the Rustica Pizza with tomato, mozzarella, rolled Italian Bacon and blue cheese. Very impressive on the plate and quite tasty with the blue cheese providing quite a kick in spots and the bacon giving a different texture here and there. Finished it off with pleasure.

The other mains came from the pasta list and was the Parmigiana (oven baked aubergine with mozzarella, tomato sauce, parmesan and basil). Again this was well presented and really tasty, something like a lasagne with aubergine instead of meat. 


Both the mains were washed down with a decent house wine, €11.50 for a 50cl carafe of Barbera which had inviting aromas and was pleasant and easy drinking. They have Moretti beer in bottle, Perroni on tap and also a “guest” Italian artisan beer.



Sambuca
Now time for dessert, all around a fiver. There is a rather short list, augmented by two specials. One of the specials was Tiramisu and it was rather special, sweet stuff indeed. I went for one of the regulars: Affogato (Gelato ice cream drained into coffee and sambuca). Enjoyed this even if it had more of a coffee kick, less Sambuca.

Made up for that though by finishing off with a Sambuca Black (5.00). Had been thinking of a Grappa but I like the aniseed taste here and it came with Cantuccio biscuits.

If you enjoy pizza and pasta, then this is the place for you.





Sheares Street, Cork
(021) 427 3000
info@mardyke.com
Open from 5.00pm Tuesday to Sunday.

Friday, February 1, 2013

Wine Geese Heading Home


Wine Geese Heading Home
Mezzo soprano Amanda Neary at L'Atitude and,
in B& W, Beverley Matthews, Maurice O'Mahony,
and, at bottom, Tom Lynch (left) and Colm McCann

The Wine Geese are coming home. Watch out for them anywhere between latitude 51 and 52 over the next 12 months.

Indeed, one was present at the gathering in Cork’s wine cafe L’Atitude 51 last night when details of the exciting programme for Bringing the Wine Geese Home were announced by the dedicated troika of Beverly Matthews (L’Atitude 51), Colm McCan (Ballymaloe) and Maurice O’Mahony (Wine Alliance).

Local wine historian Ted Murphy, who assisted in setting up the Wine Museum in Kinsale, is also helping out and indeed his award winning book on the Wine Geese, a Kingdom of Wine, is a big help to the committee and no surprise to see Colm McCann reading from it last evening

Mendoza is the base for the El Commandante Wines and they were well represented by Tom Lynch who treated us to his two lovely easy drinking wines, a Chardonnay and a Malbec.

Tom also told us about another Lynch family (Benegas Lynch) making wine, not too far from Mendoza; these Lynches are related to Che Guevara (the South American El Commandante) and also to the Lynch-Bages of Bordeaux.

By coincidence, the French Chateau Lynch-Bages are one of the early highlights on the Wild Geese programme and their Jean Charles Cazes will be in Ballymaloe March 10th for a tasting and dinner. In October 10th, Ballymaloe will be the venue when Marc Boissonnet hosts a tasting and presentation of Hennessy Cognac.

Another big highlight comes on May 18th with the “Return of the Wild Geese Winefair” organised by Gary O’Donovan. This will bring together wines and winery owners with Irish heritage from around the globe in the Rochestown Park Hotel and will be followed that night by a black-tie dinner in the fabulous Fleming’s Restaurant.

The next event is coming up pretty soon, on February 13th. Jane Boyce (Master of Wine) will present a tasting, including Chateau Phelan-Segur, in association with James Nicholson Wines in L’Atitude.

You may check out the list of events here

Great to meet up with so many of the local wine and restaurant trade last evening. Geraldine was there from Cafe Paradiso and they’ll be hosting Emma Cullen of Cullen Wines (Margaret River) on May 28th while Sandra, sommelier at the Hayfield Manor Hotel, is looking forward to September 12th when their visitor is John McDonnell (Wine Australia), the event entitled “It’s a long way from Clare to here” featuring the wines of the Clare Valley.

Some of our well known Irish wine writers will host events. Thomas Clancy, John Wilson and Leslie Williams have all been lined up. Wine merchants have not been found wanting. Joe Karwig will have at least one event as will Mackenways, Wine Alliance, Curious Wines and O’Donovan’s.

And this cooperation was very evident last evening as the drinks were sponsored, starting with Blanquette de Limoux (thanks to Conor O’Brien of James Nicholson) and followed by Tom’s El Commandante wines. Then Peter Corr of Febvre & Co. treated us to Chateau McCarthy and we finished off on a sweet note thanks to Susie O’Connor of Classic Drinks and their gorgeous Seifried Ice Wine.

Not quite the final note though as that was supplied via the thrilling voice of the gifted Amanda Neary, Ireland’s leading mezzo-soprano, who sang ’O sole mio.

The night was still young and downstairs L’Atitude have a massive board with some fifty wines displayed. Just had to stop and sample and the one I picked and enjoyed was the Sepp Grüner Veltliner from Austria. No Irish connection there as far as I know but good nonetheless.

L’Atitude has gained many loyal customers in its short existence and the upstairs room is ideal for gatherings such as last evening. There will be other smashing venues on the schedule before the year is out.

The committee are negotiating for one special one (no details disclosed!) and other places that will hold Wine Geese Events include Longueville House in Mallow, the Triskel Arts Centre and Isaacs Restaurant (both in the city).

And way out west, there is one that I am looking forward to and that is the summer Food and Wine Extravaganza at Manning’s Emporium in Ballylickey on June 22nd. Val promised that this will have a strong Wine Geese theme. Lovely place, lovely people.

Bringing the Wine Geese Home is incorporated into the Gathering events for 2013 and you may see more details here; details that will be updated regularly.

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting
Taste of the Week: Arbutus Olivc & Rye Bread
at Bradley's, North Main Street
L’Atitude 51 
L’Atitude 51 (No 1 Union Quay) have a Whisky Tasting session on Thursday 7th of February at 7.30pm in their Wine Workshop upstairs. A 90-minute fun and interactive tutored tasting of 7 different whiskies from the world’s major whisky-production regions where you’ll learn to taste like a pro and explore the subtle and stark differences between whiskies.
Price: €30pp – includes 7 drams of different whiskies and their signature canapés. Booking required as spaces are limited. You can phone on 021 239 0219.

Liberty Grill
“Feeling a bit nostalgic for the old DINE IN CORK promotion, so for a limited time, we would like to offer you any appetizer, any one of the seasonal specials plus any dessert with a tea or coffee to finish for €25.” Check their menu here

Fermoy Indoor Market & Baby Fair
Fermoy Indoor Market & Baby Fair is fully booked for Sunday next 3rd February. A mega jam packed market hall comprising of the following - Milly’s Attic, Monagown Preserves, The Gift Basket, Avon Killeagh, Artwork by Maria Dowling, Ellen's Sewing Basket, Marys Baby Cardigans, Geeya's Cakes, Margaret's Dolls Houses, Costume Jewellery, personalised baby items, Cork Usbourne Books, Laura's Kids Chairs, Cupcakes by Siobhain, Silverhaven Jewellery, Bnbump Creations, Fantasy Face Painting, Beauty care products, Deisuin Candles, tea & coffee n toastie shop and so much more...

New to the Fermoy Indoor Market is a relaxing kiddie Area with soft mats, a selection of toys for the younger ones, kiddie table & chairs to draw or colour. Our new Face painter is Jenifer who will be there to develop their creativity.

Spinning Wheel Restaurant
On Friday, Feb 1st, it is Fiver Friday in the Spinning Wheel Restaurant at Griffin’s Garden Centre. A Gourmet Main Course for €5. Definitely one of the best Lunch Deals in Cork. Lunch served from 12:30 and while stocks last. Also Margaret will be giving a demonstration on the Tradition of the St Brigid's Cross at 12 noon. Also, from Monday 4th of Feb, the Spinning Wheel Restaurant will be serving Afternoon Tea Daily from 3:00- 5:30.

Shorts
Pork and Shitake Mushroom SiuMai at Le Dragon in Madrid, Madrid 

Folláin Preserves ‏@FollainJams
A simple and delicious recipe for Honey and Wholegrain Mustard chicken. http://goo.gl/sjtWz
  #EatWell4Life pic.twitter.com/AdVayg6b