Tuesday, September 11, 2012

My Introduction to the Wines of Irouleguy


My Introduction to the Wines of Irouleguy

Irouleguy, not far from the Pyrenees, is among the smallest of the French appellations. It is situated in the Pays Basque and is the only AOC there.

This June, I bought some wines after a tasting in La Cave Irouleguy in the town of St Etienne de Baigorry, which is 32 miles inland from Biarritz. The wines are excellent and the AOC is well worth a visit if you are holidaying on that lovely stretch of the Atlantic Coast.

The grapes used for the red wines are Tannat, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. For the whites, they use Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Courbu. For me, the highlight was a rosé, which had no less than 80% Tannat!


Argi D’Ansa, Rosé 2011, 12.5%
This is a rich looking pink with a fruity (strawberry) nose. It is fruity and dry, entirely loveable and gluggable. Love at first swallow.

The stern reputation of Tannat can put punters off. “The man’s grape” you hear. Maybe so. But add in 10% Cab Sauv and 10% Cab Franc and you end up with this gem or, at least, the winemakers of Irouleguy did! If you do get down that way, look out for this Gold Medal winner at Paris 2012.

Xuri, White 2011, 14%
Has a clean golden colour, with complex aromas: fruity and floral. On the palate, it is fresh and fruity, full and elegant, dry and well balanced, second glass appeal. Pronounced Churi, is has been aged on its lees in barrels and casks. It won a Silver medal in Paris 2012. I’d have given it Gold!

Grapes: Gros Manseng 60%, Petit Manseng 30%, Courbu 10%.

Andere D’Ansa, White 2011, 13.5%
This is a Gold medal winner from Paris 2012. It has been two months on lees and the grapes used are Gros Manseng (80%) and Petit Manseng.

Colour is a lovely clean Gold/Green and the nose is aromatic with minty herby hints. On the palate it is dry and fruity (mango, citrus and pineapple). It is fresh and zingy with a sharp finish. Said to go well with fish (including shellfish), sheeps cheese (Including the local Ossau Iraty), Asian cuisine and may be also drank as an aperitif. Another good one.

Gorri D’Ansa, Red 2009, 13.5%
This red, a Gold Medal winner at Paris 2011, has a dark ruby colour and black fruit aromas with hints of white pepper. On the palate it is fruity and slightly spicy with active tannins. This is nicely rounded, a wine of character but perhaps not for beginners. Recommended for lamb, duck and cheese.

The fruit is hand harvested and most of the reds have a high proportion of the Tannat grape. This, with 60%, is no exception. The other grapes are 30% Cab Franc and 10% Cab Sauv.

Premia, Red 2010, 12.5%
Tough going on the steep terraced slopes of Irouleguy and they don’t want to waste all that hard work on crap wines. Quality is the over-riding aim and they achieve it quite regularly as they do here.
This is dark red with a nose of red fruits (Raspberry for me) and floral notes. It has excellent balance, is tasty and fruity, smooth with a good long aromatic finish. Superb match for grilled meats, charcuterie and cheese.

Domaine de Mignaberry, Red 2010, 13.5%
I’m told this is a pretty good one but I’m also told to hold on to it for another three to five years. Will do my best!
The blend is 60% Tannat, 20% Cab Sauv and 20% Cab Franc.

Aherlow House Hotel Spanish Chef. Local Food.

Aherlow House Hotel
Spanish Chef. Local Food.
View from the dining room.

Had a mini-break recently in the spectacularly located Aherlow House Hotel and enjoyed it immensely. Great views and terrific food. Not forgetting the friendly service.

That service started and ended with the reception crew but, in between, was also seen and appreciated in the bar and the restaurant. They serve food in the bar but we went for the appropriately named Treetops Restaurant.

Its huge windows give you a massive view over the Galtee mountains to the south as does the outdoor seating area. But it also dishes out some gorgeous food, much of it supplied locally. On the evening we were there, the beef and lamb came from near neighbour Tom Lewis, the veg was supplied by Eden Growers (Tipperary Town) while the fish came from Atlantis Seafood in Kilmore Quay. Well done to Spanish chef Jose.
Clockwise from top left: Pavlova, Smoked Salmon, Cheeseboard, wine, steak,
duck with fennel, grilled Asparagus & Peppers.

Smoked salmon was available at dinner and at breakfast and that, coming from the Burren Smokehouse, was a delight. Great too to see cheese makers Gubbeen, Cashel Blue and Cooleeney represented.

I had that very Smoked Salmon, with poached Tiger Prawns and a rocket and lemon dressing, for my top drawer starter while CL was also very happy with her gorgeous Grilled Asparagus, Roast Red Peppers and Coriander dressing.

I had some of that Lewis beef in the shape of a Pan Fried Ribeye Steak with Homemade Onion Rings and Sweet Potato Chips. Tender, delicious and cooked as requested. The other mains, another winner, was Breast of Duck with roasted Fennel, Celeriac Fondant, Caramelised Pear with a Honey and Thyme Sauce. Cracking stuff.

Dessert too was well up to standard, especially that Cheeseplate, served with a Tomato and Apple chutney, Celery, Grapes and Artisan biscuits. I enjoyed my Mess of Pavlova with fresh Raspberries and Strawberries and Chantilly Cream.

And the wine came from Spain and quite good it was: La Cruz Tempranillo and Syrah, a delicious warming blend, red berries and spice, from Finca Loranque Vino de la Tierra de Castilla.

The four course meal cost €35.00 per person, set price, while the wine came in at €22.00. No wine at breakfast, but again a terrific choice, including that Burren Smoked Salmon. Terrific friendly place to stay and all very helpful with queries on the local attractions, especially the lovely walks, many of which start close to the hotel.

Click on the links to read a fuller account of the brief stay.
Glen of Aherlow  Cahir Castle  and the Swiss Cottage.

Monday, September 10, 2012

Old Shop. New online.


Bradley’s Now Online!


When I started buying beer in Bradley’s, I was conscious of resuming a family tradition. But with a difference. My father would have bought bottled Guinness but the black stuff I was buying was from craft breweries in places like Kerry, Waterford, Carlow and nearer home. Bradley’s are a great supporter of craft beers (and ciders) and have a fantastic selection.

A few years back, I was in a local wine store and they were amazed at the quality of the wines in Bradley’s. “He must have some buyer,” they said admiringly. And that sterling selection is still available.

When you visit, be sure and take a look too at the Sherries, the gins, the whiskeys. Fantastic selections. And if Michael Creedon hasn’t got it in stock, he’ll get it for you.

Man doesn’t live on beer alone of course. You gotta have bread. And Bradley’s, founded in 1850, have the best of it, the beautiful loaves produced by Cork's own Arbutus. Great stuff. And if you like jam on the break, then look no further then Gs’ award winning jars, another proud addition to the shelves in this amazing store.

And they has so much more, such as great porridge oats from places like Kilbeggan and Ballybrado, cereal from Staple Diet, local honey, coffee from Fermoy's Badger and Dodo.

But not much good having shelves groaning with the best of products unless you have the service to go with it. And here too Bradley's excel. Expert advice and knowledge is just a question away. A lovely store to visit and a great place to make a purchase. And now you may purchase online. Take a look at their spanking new website!

Three Clare champions at Ballymaloe

Three Clare champions at Ballymaloe

Birgitta

Fit for a queen
Met three champions from Clare at Ballymaloe last evening. The first, Skillogalee founder Dave Palmer, comes for the Clare Valley in Australia, while the other two, Birgitta Curtin of the Burren Smokehouse and Siobhan Ni Ghairbhith of St Tola, come from our own County Clare, after which the Australian valley is named. It was a promising line-up and they delivered big time.


Colm McCan of Ballymaloe greeted us all with a Skillogalee Sparkling Riesling. “A very unusual wine, only four or five are made in Oz,” said Dave. “It is light, dry and refreshing and aromatic. It is a properly made sparkler, bottle fermented and aged on its lees.” Great start.


Siobhan
Hard
Ash




Dave then took to the stage at the Grain Store to introduce his two whites for the evening: the Riesling 2011 and the Gewurztraminer 2011. “These are cold climate wines. We pick pristine fruit and try to preserve it all the way through”. These were matched with the soft goats cheeses and the smoked salmon. “Matches made in heaven,” according to Dave. “I think the lemon and lime flavours in the wine is one of the reasons.”

Next on the wine list was the Rosé (a Cabernet Malbec blend) 2011, a rosé “with attitude..brings out the summer berry characters”. Delightful all the way through from its initial beautiful strawberry bouquet.

Two Gold medal winning reds followed as the high standard was maintained: The Cabernets 2007 and the Shiraz 2008. Quality control is vital in Skillogalee and you won’t find The Cabernets 2008. They didn’t make it as the fruit wasn't good enough.

The reds were matched with the St Tola Hard Cheese, just three months old. Very good now, like Gouda, but Siobhan promised it will get better as it matures (more like Parmesan in the end).

Dave
Quite often, the language of wine maker and food producer is the same. They are one and all affected by factors outside their control including the obvious one of the weather. They are one and all dependent on their terroir. Siobhan knows that if she were to transport her 200 plus goats to an inland county that the cheese flavours would be different.

“We have a peaty soil near the Atlantic. The St Tola Log cheese is quite natural, a little fruity, hints of the peat and undertones of salt. The St Tola Ash is made in the same way but in smaller log and is rolled in a food grade charcoal to produce the Ash rim. The Ash makes it stand out on the cheeseboard and keeps it fresh.”

The hard cheese is weather dependent, made only in summer with surplus milk. In a good year, St Tola make it from May to July/August but this bad summer they were curtailed to making it from June to mid July.

It soon became obvious that you really need to know what you are doing with hard cheese. “Timing is very important. If done wrongly, it can even explode!” With its beautiful taste and texture and creaminess, it proved a great match for the Cabernets.

Just like Dave and Diane Palmer, Birgitta and Peter started their Clare business about 23 years ago. Now the Burren Smokehouse is internationally recognised and its products are stocked in speciality food shops in places such as London, US and Kuwait. They too set high standards and their excellence has been regularly recognised and many awards have come their way.

They love their location but even here there are challenges, like the scarcity of wild salmon. She told us the wild salmon is a little drier and the flavour lingers a little longer. They get theirs from a fisherman on the Nore and it ends up in the most unexpected places. Like the Queen’s table, for example. Last year, during the Queen's visit, Ross Lewis choose Burren Smokehouse Wild Salmon for the state banquet. Another honour for Birgitta and company!

Birgitta is Swedish and explained that hot smoking is prevalent in her home country while cold smoking is more common in Ireland. She showed a selection at Ballymaloe, including the Donegal Silver (fresh, sweet and full of Omega3) and the slightly paler Clare Island.

Her Hot Smoked Organic Salmon “is slightly spiced, fully cooked and more meaty.” Birgitta suggested it is a good way to get young people interested in smoked fish though she suspected that “the real fish eaters might prefer cold smoked”.

The Burren Smokehouse is quite a tourist attraction. “Some 30,000 people visit us each year, 10,000 of them from France. Please call in!”

A terrific entertaining and informative evening was drawing to a close but, with Dave Palmer on hand, there was to be a sweet ending, a tasting of the famous Skillogalee Liqueur Muscat, made like a Tawny Port, the fermentation stopped at the right point (the tricky part) leaving a 25% sugar content. Great nose and great flavours, not at all cloying and with a long lingering finale.

Thanks to Dave and Dianne Palmer, to Birgitta and Siobhan and indeed to Colm and all at Ballymaloe.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Amuse Bouche


The entrance to the restaurant is lined with cages of snakes, cats and tortoises. A man takes a skinned dog off his bicycle rack and delivers it to the kitchen. The fish and prawns jumping in enamel basins splash water onto the stone floor and remind one the sea is not far away.
There really is nothing Guangzhou people do not eat. Tonight I have tasted snake, cat, turtle and raw fish.
From Red Dust by Ma Jian

Sun Shines on Midleton Food Festival


Midleton Food Festival
Top centre: Birthday boy Barrie Tyner at the Farmers Market
and, right, Mella and her award winning Fudge at the Festival

Enjoyed my ramble through the busy Midleton Food Festival yesterday morning. We had a couple of bags with us but were soon presented with another by the Festival folks as we walked down the main street.

Lots of activity. There was a small craft fair in one side street, a photo exhibition in another. Perhaps the best off-street atmosphere was at Sage Restaurant where their courtyard saw salads being served nonstop, punters relaxing in the sun on giant bean-bags and a live band in action. “Like a mini Electric picnic,” quipped Head Chef Kevin Aherne.

Back then to the big picnic on the street. Lots of hot food available, including kangaroo steaks. On the Pig's Back were busy as was Ballymaloe Relish and they were lining up to sample Mella’s gorgeous fudge. Seymours gorgeous biscuits were also in demand and I helped myself to a few packets of the Cheese Biscuits.

Day’s of Whitegate had a big stand and a big crowd. Ballycotton Seafood were also busy; picked up some fresh John Dory there and also a bunch of mackerel. Big rings of Clonakilty black pudding were being cooked in huge batches and sold on the spot. Close by, BBQ Joe’s were ready for action.

Some of the local restaurants, including Pizzeria San Marco, joined in the spirit of the day and the pizza slices were in demand. There is only so much food you can eat on a walk-through like this and I was more than happy with a tender steak sandwich from local butcher Jim Crowley, unbelievably tender!

Lots of hot food about but not too many producers in the Festival itself. To find them in numbers, you had to go to the usual Saturday morning market, and an excellent one it is, at the Cork side of the town. I’ve often thought that these producers, in Midleton every Saturday of the year, should be given pride of place on the main street on Festival day. I think it would add a solid backbone to the whole experience.

This band of musicians get attention!

Friday, September 7, 2012

Buffalo Tasting at The Mills Inn

From tongue to tail in Ballyvourney
The Buffalo Tasting Evening in The Mills Inn.


"Failte roimh gach einne chuig an Dinnear Speisialta. Ta suil againn go mbainsidh sibh taithneamh as an ocaid seo."

These were the words of greeting as we arrived at the Mills Inn in Ballyvourney for the first ever tasting dinner for the local Toons Bridge buffalo meat. We certainly enjoyed the occasion which started with Don O’Leary of the Mills introducing us to the men behind the buffalo venture, Toby Simmons (The Real Olive Company) and Johnny Lynch (farmer).

It all started over a drink just three years ago. There was some trepidation about the buffalo, that the Irish wouldn't take to them. But, as Toby said last night, everybody is fascinated by the buffalo. And that was underlined when the farm was the subject of TG4 documentary Cogar: Buabhaill ar na Bánta (Where the Buffaloes Roam).

Don O'Leary said the joint venture by the two local men has been an inspiration to people in the area and has been an eye-opener. It could lead to a few more entrepreneurs starting up and indeed there is one venture currently brewing, involving local skill and ingredients, that may well be up and running by Christmas. We’ll keep you posted!

The starter plate: Poached Buffalo Tongue with its own mousse and Cauliflower Pickle; Buffalo Mozzarella with Pesto and Sun Blushed Tomato; Carpaccio of Buffalo with Rocket Salad, Buffalo Cheese and White Truffle Oil.

Buffalo Broth with Autumn root vegetable and a Tailmeat Wanton (served with Mills Brown Bread and Buffalo Cream Butter).
Pan Roasted Aged Dry Buffalo Sirloin with a Potato Gratin and a Buffalo Milk Horseradish and Mixed Pepper Ice Cream, Caramelised Onion Puree and Roast Garlic Jus; Fillet of Buffalo and Wild Mushroom Cottage pie with a Colcannon Kale.
Toons Bridge Buffalo Ricotta with local Ballyvourney Honey on a Sweet Tuille;
Buffalo Cream and Blackberry Tiramisu.

As I said at the start, Buffalo from tongue to tail. With Buffalo in every course, this meal ran the risk of being boring! But it was far from that and here great credit must go to the Mills chefs, Kevin Purcell (Head) and Alan Rossborough, who put a lot of work and thought into the menu.

But what did the meat taste like? Unless you were expecting something exotic, you would not have been disappointed. After all, the Buffalo is a bovine, as is your normal cow. The main course, particularly the Sirloin, perhaps provided the clearest tasting and I must say it was very pleasing indeed. Some wines are described as easy drinking. Well, this was easy eating. Delighted with it, taste and texture.

Much depends of course on how any meat is handled. This was killed about five weeks back and was beautiful and tender. Ballincollig's Christoir O'Crualaoi was the butcher and I met him at the meal. He was very happy with the outcome and aptly described the meat as a mild beef with hints of lamb. In any event, it is a fine meat that can easily find a place on the Irish plate and a welcome on the palate.
Everyone had their own favourite course. I enjoyed them all. The broth though was a highlight also, really tasty and warming.

Many of you by now know and appreciate the Mozzarella coming from Toons Bridge. I hadn’t tasted the Ricotta before but, combined with a dash or two of the local honey, it turned out to be a gorgeous surprise as indeed did that whiter than white sliced butter, once I recognized it as such. Thought it was a cheese at first. 

It was that kind of night. A night to learn and explore. Hope you get the chance soon. Indeed, if you are in the Cork area on Sunday why not pop in to the Mills Inn at lunchtime where you’ll find Buffalo on the menu!

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Food and Drink Spotting


Food and Drink Spotting
One of the Fenns Quay Puntsavers.
One old punt or two euro!


Food Champs Wanted

Fáilte Ireland is seeking nominations for emerging food champions with a resounding passion and belief in Irish food, and a commitment and drive to actively influence and shape the future of Irish cuisine and food tourism in their region.

12 nominees will be selected, representing a mixed group of owner/managers of food service businesses and members of the wider food tourism community, who are committed to playing a role in developing Ireland’s food tourism proposition and reputation More here.

Midleton Food & Drink Festival

From 10 am on Saturday morning till 5pm The Midleton Food and Drink Festival will be on the Streets, with over 60 food stalls, craft maker demonstrations, Craft exhibition, The Farmers Market, children's entertainment in the Library and on the streets, Fashion shows. Come to Midleton for a great day out for all the family.

Slow Food Tours at Waterford Harvest Festival

Ireland’s biggest food festival – ‘Harvest’ which takes place in Waterford from September 10 to 16 has announced a series of Slow Food Tours to take place throughout the festival week.

The first Slow Food Tour of the Festival takes place on September 10 and will visit a prize winning dairy farm at milking time to view the process in action and will then meet John Flahavan at the sixth generation miller’s facility at Flahavan’s Porridge in Kilmacthomas.

The final stop is an opportunity to meet Grace Kiersey and take a tour of her vegetable garden also near Kilmacthomas, County Waterford. For the rest of the programme, click here

Cornstore Mussels!

The September Mussel Festival has just kicked off in both Limerick and Cork Restaurants! Details.

White Horse Food, Beer and Music Fest!

The annual White Horse festival kicks off next week. Thursday Sept 13th is Meet The Brewer In Assoc. with The Franciscan Well Brewery. It includes a welcome beer, a 3 course tasting menu with beer pairings, and a brewing talk from Fran, the Well Head Brewer. Tickets €15 from www.whitehorse.ie or from the bar.
Full programme


Fenn’s Quay Top Taster Offers

Fenn’s Quay Restaurant is pleased to present a new PuntSaver selection in addition to their lunch and dinner menus. Kate Lawlor, who is known as a chef with a passion for local ingredients, has created an array of new scrumptious items available for just €2 each.

Each day, she now offers several items on the €2 ‘PuntSaver’ taster menu based on what is available fresh from the local producers. Taster items include: Rosscarbery white pudding & shellfish de la mer scallops, Goatsbridge trout caviar, Ardsallagh goats cheese & crispy wild rock samphire, or Ballyhoura mushrooms with wild sea samphire.

Dee’s Quinoa Pots

Dee's is about to launch 3 New Food-to-Go Quinoa Pots. Quinoa? Dee tells me that quinoa is a fantastic, naturally gluten-free grain and is a complete protein so you get all the essential amino acids your body needs, not to mention packed full of vitamins and minerals. Read all about it and the new pots here

Drinks

Ballymaloe

Sunday 16th September, 4.30pm

‘A New Zealand Wine Adventure in Ballymaloe’

With New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay.

€15 (includes wine presentation and tasting)


The Restaurant at Donnybrook Fair  have their October Wine Dinner taking place on the 31st where they will welcome Dr John Forrest from Forrest winery in New Zealand as host..

Shorts

‏Dates for your diary. Sept 22nd and 23rd. Ciderfest (and apple fest) at The Apple Farm.

Cork newest restaurant. Check out the menu here

Bradley’s Off Licence's new website:

Friday fiver at Griffin’s Garden Restaurant in Dripsey! Where would you like to begin your weekend? Sitting outside looking at the meandering river and eating a full gourmet lunch for just five Euros. Well Griffins can guarantee that (except the sunshine but a high probability it will be sunny) Lunch will be served from 12:30 till 3:30.

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Home on the Range. Sierra Nevada.


Home on the Range. Sierra Nevada.


Summerfest Crisp Summer Lager 2012, 5%
Pilsner style for warm days, just like this week! This lager is crisp, refreshing, friendly, well balanced with a dry finish.

Kellerweis Hefeweizen, 4.8%
Hazy golden colour, good flavours with clove coming through. Well made, tasty.  And very smooth. Note that it has special pouring instructions.

Pale Ale, 5.6%
This multi medal winner is their flagship beer. It has a deep amber colour and is full bodied. The purity of the ingredients is stressed and it is well balanced, flavoursome and tasty.


Torpedo Extra IPA, 7.2%
This is the big one, big on flavour, big on hops, big on bitterness and on abv. Not for beginners! It has the highest bitterness of the four at 65!

Summary
 My preferences here are for the two lightweights, the Summerfest and the Kellerweis.




Wisdom Winner
S-Ale-vation though is found much closer to home in a bottle of Wisdom Ale (by Elbow Lane). It has an abv of 4.5% and, like the Nevada range,  is available from Bradley's, North Main Street.

Took a sip of the dark amber liquid and found it more rounded than many others, no extremes of flavour, no overload. It has a medium body with toasted malt (even chocolately)  flavours. Brewed to go well with food or as a stand alone pint, I reckon they've succeeded!

My second tasting and my opinion that this is the ale for me is reinforced. The range of Sierra Nevada beers are available at Bradley's, North Main Street as is the Wisdom Ale. Check out their new website here.

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Reinforcements for Celtic Cook-off Champ!


Ondine's Roy Brett makes welcome return to Taste of West Cork!

2011 Celtic Cook Off winner, Roy Brett of Ondine Restaurant in Edinburgh, is bringing three of his brigade with him to the West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen to provide “A Taste of Ondine” on Tuesday 11 September. Roy and his team will work with Chef Aidan O’Driscoll and the West Cork Hotel team to cook a Scottish themed meal using the very best of West Cork produce.

Roy loved his visit to the A Taste of West Cork Festival so much last year that he discussed the possibility of coming back with Neil Grant, West Cork Hotel General Manager, as soon as he returned to Scotland. “Roy has been an unbelievable ambassador for West Cork and its incredible food produce since his visit a year ago,” explains Neil. “Roy featured Rosscarbery Recipe’s White and Black puddings, Sally Barnes Smoked Salmon and he even started baking his own Soda Bread after his visit. I understand he knocked back numerous offers to attend various events this year in favour of attending this year’s food festival, so we are thrilled to have him.”

Roy will be a busy man. Not only will he be cooking a meal at the West Cork Hotel, he is also judging for both the Food Festival’s Schools’ Cookery Competition and this year’s Celtic Cook Off event. Roy was blown away by the quality of cooking on show at last year’s Schools’ Competition and vowed to return. “If you asked a kid in Scotland where there food came from they would say ‘Tesco,’” was Roy’s quip on seeing the young chefs talk about the provenance of their food being cooked last year!

It will be fascinating to see Roy judge the Celtic Cook Off as he is very familiar with Tony Singh of Scotland as well as Jack Stein and Stephane Delourme who are coming from the Rick Stein Company and representing Cornwall and Brittany respectively. “I can’t wait to put them under a little bit of pressure,” says Roy. We can’t wait either!!

Roy’s Taste of Ondine will be a six course tasting menu at €40 per person and will be served at 7:30 PM on Tuesday 11 September. Roy may even drag a few of the Celtic Cook Off competitors into the kitchen to support him!

The produce for this Celtic Feast is kindly sponsored by artisan food producer members of West Cork Food. As Neil Grant says, “We are lucky to have such a wealth of great produce in this region. The producers have such passion and their passion combined with Roy’s artistry….wow. We are in for a great night!”

Bookings can be made through the West Cork Hotel reception. +00 353 (0)28 21277

Monday, September 3, 2012

Txakoli, the Basque Wine

Missed!
4 weeks in the Basque Country

Txakoli, the Basque Wine
Way to do it!

Aitako Txakolina 2010, Getariako (Spain), 11.5%



Txakoli (or Chacolí in Spanish) is a slightly sparkling, very dry white wine with high acidity and low alcohol. It is the wine of the Basque Country (Euskadi) which has provinces on each side of the French-Spanish border on the Atlantic coast.

Getariko (Getaria) is a lovely coastal town between San Sebastian and Bilbao and centre of one of the major producing areas. The major grape used in this bottle is Hondarribi Zuri.

The wine, as far as I know, is not exported to Ireland but apparently has strong sales in the USA where Basque cuisine is highly regarded and where the lower alcohol levels are attractive.

This one is somewhat more advanced, more complex, than your ordinary Txakoli (meant to be poured and drunk quickly). The bubbles and acidity are there but the flavours don’t vanish after the initial pouring, though the “head” does.

Properly poured!
The Aitako vineyard say they have made a careful selection, have harvested at the optimum time and have fermented at low temperatures for a more intense aroma. The wine has also benefited from being raised on its own lees as this “gives volume, smoothness and balance in the mouth.”

While this bottle, bought in a wine shop in the main street in Getaria, a town I visited three times during a recent holiday, is undoubtedly the best I’ve tasted, I will happily say that I also enjoyed more modest efforts.

As a visitor, I was delighted to be able to try out this unfamiliar wine in the local restaurants – while it is produced in Spain, it is drunk on both sides of the border.

One of the unusual elements is that it is poured from a height, from about two feet above the glass, usually a sturdy tumbler, the intent being to increase the bubbles and release the flavours. It sure added to the novelty and the fun. Still does, especially if you try it yourself!

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Food & Drink Spotting Updates!



Extra night for the Tom Crean Dinner at Annie's

Emma from Annie's Gastro-Pub has been in touch to say that their multi-course Tom Crean Lager Dinner on the 22nd of this month has been practically sold out. As a result, they will also hold the event on the 21st.

We asked Emma about the start time of 18.35, (6.35pm). "This is due to the association with the Dingle Brewing Company and Tom Crean's lager to these numbers. Tom Crean undertook an 18 hour trek over 35 miles to save two of his companions during the Terra Nova expedition."

After the meal, Annie's will hosts the trad artists who are regular performers in the wonderful Corner House to perform for diners, "to add to the evening's experience". One of the musicians is Pat (Herring) Ahern, a very highly regarded guitarist, who happens to be father of Mark, one the chefs at Annie's! Should be a good one.

To book, ring Annie's at 021 4398384.

St Tola Cheese

Ballymaloe Wine Event 
We've also heard from Ballymaloe's Colm McCan: "We have our line-up of 'Clare' producers now fully confirmed for the upcoming event at Ballymaloe 'Its a long way from Clare to here - A taste of Clare, in East Cork', at Ballymaloe, Sunday 9th September, 6.00pm.

- winemaker, Dave Palmer, Skillogalee Wines, Clare Valley, South Australia,
- Birgitta Curtin, Burren Smokehouse
-Siobhán Ni Ghairbhith, St.Tola Goats Cheese."

€18 (includes wine presentation & tasting, and food presentation’s & tasting).

Further information, and bookings, please contact Ballymaloe House by e-mail colm@ballymaloe.ie or by telephone:             00 353 (0) 21 4652531    



Thursday, August 30, 2012

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting
Ballymaloe Wine Events
Skillogalee

Ballymaloe’s Colm McCan tells me they have some interesting wine events coming up. “The next one is on Sunday 9th September - It’s a long way from Clare to here - with Dave Palmer, of Skillogalee, returning to Ballymaloe (we are just doing a tasting this time) and he will be joined by some Co. Clare food producers - a bit like what we did with the Trimbach/Gubbeen/Cashel Blue event - I am also hoping that the nice people from St Tola will also be able to join us, so that should be a good one. Starts at 6.00pm.”

Sunday 16th September, 4.30pm
‘A New Zealand Wine Adventure in Ballymaloe’
With New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay.
€15 (includes wine presentation and tasting)

Thursday 27th September
‘A Margaret River wine region experience in East Cork’
Surfing on Shanagarry Strand, cricket experience on the lawn at Ballymaloe with the East Cork Cricket Club, followed by wine tasting with Australian winemaker, David Hohnen & Ted Berner’s Wildside ‘fire-cooking’ Harvest Supper, and music.€35 (includes surfing, and cricket experience, wine presentation & wine tasting, and Harvest Supper)

Thursday, 25th, October 7pm
Dry Sherry with Oscar Bayo, Bodegas Gonzalez Byass, Jerez, Spain
Matching food and different styles of Sherry. Re-discover Sherry, and enjoy a selection of Sherry with matching nibbles specially prepared by Chef Scott Walsh and Ted Berner €18 (includes presentation, tasting & matching nibbles)

Thursday 8th November, 7pm
An Italian evening - wines of Tuscany & New Season’s Olive Oil
‘New Seasons Tuscan Olive Oil’ launch, with the owners of some of Tuscany’s iconic Olive Oil & Wine Estates, including Bea Contini Bonacossi, from Capezzana, Carmignano; Federico Giuntini, Selvapiana, Rufina; Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi and David Gleave MW of Liberty Wines.€24 (includes new seasons Olive Oil presentation & tasting; Tuscan wine presentation & tasting and nibbles)
website http://www.ballymaloe.ie/things-to-do/wine-events
More wine

L’Atitude 51
have arranged four successive classes designed to learn about wine in a fun and lively way. Start Sept 22nd. Info on latitude51.ie Workshop / Course Detail.

Donnybrook Fair have announced details of their new 8 week Wine Appreciation Course starting on the 20th of September. This course will teach all about the different grape varieties, countries of origin and the process of wine making. This course is ideal for people who have a basic understanding of wine and who would like to expand their knowledge. Extra info.

Curious Wines tell me me they have a terrific evening this Friday. “We’re delighted to welcome Francesco Riccardi of Borgo Magredo for the first of our autumn schedule of events and tastings, as part of the newly launched Curious Wine Club.

Francesco will be presenting the Borgo Magredo range for sampling as part of an Italian night in the Bowery, Cork. The Bowery’s rooftop will be the venue from 5.00pm to 9.00pm; entry along with wine samples and nibbles is completely free.”
Food

Bord Bia
have just announced that National Organic Week 2012 takes place from 10th-16th September and will celebrate and promote Ireland’s organic sector. Organic producers and retailers and farmers markets nationwide will host events including organic farm walks, cookery demonstrations, BBQs, harvest feasts, complimentary in store tastings and talks – keep an eye out here for further updates!
Amicus Restaurant are currently looking for staff for their town restaurant. “We need energetic, experienced (minimum 2 years), hard-working people to fill both Bar and Floor positions. Please email your CV to paulstreet@amicusrestaurant.ie or just drop it into the restaurant on Paul Street!”

Shorts

Cornstore’s Saturday Night Party series started last weekend. Details here

Cornstore is a busy place these days as they also have a charity event coming up on September 13th. It is titled Women, Wine and Shoes. Check it out here

Green Tea Kit Kat??

Chicken feet..noodle soup 

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Amuse Bouche

“I first met Robert Mondavi in early 1979, when he was already 63 years old. He was in the tasting room of his beautiful winery at Oakville, California, and he was sampling. Every morning he sampled 150 wines and every afternoon he sampled another 150. Even though he spat the whole lot out after swilling it round his mouth….there must have been enough alcohol absorbed by his body over the two sessions to send a lesser man reeling.” From Life’s Too Short to Drink Bad Wine by Simon Hoggart

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

West Cork Garlic













West Cork Garlic


Great to meet up with Axel and Marye Miret, the people who run West Cork Garlic, at their stall in the Kinsale Farmers Market last Wednesday. They were excited at a recent successful crop but even more excited about next year when thousands and thousands of bulbs will be planted

While they are relatively new to the commercial side of garlic growing, they have for many years been growing garlic successfully in their kitchen garden and soon became as the “Garlic People”. Now their garlic is used in some restaurants and for sale in shops such as URRU in Bandon and in On The Pig’s Back in Douglas. They also sell some handy garlic tools at their market stall and, if you want to sample the garlic itself  in the city centre, check it out at Bradley’s, North Main Street, where I first came across it last Tuesday.

Not alone do they sell garlic but they can also sell you the material to grow your own and are quite happy to dispense advice on how to get the best out if it. “We will be more than happy to share our experience and passion and provide you with all you need to for a successful home crop.”

You can meet them all over West Cork at the Markets: Kinsale (Wednesday), Dunmanway (Thursday), Clonakilty (Friday), Skibbereen (Saturday) and Enniskeane (one Saturday per month). You may also like to look at their website.

If you want to get sowing yourself, you don’t have that much time. Well, don’t wait until the spring as most garlic is planted in late autumn and early winter, some varieties as early as September!

So let us wish the enterprising couple all the best with their big planting next season. They are doing us all a favour. “West Cork Garlic, a welcome home-grown alternative to the Chinese garlic flooding the country,” according to Darina Allen. Import substitution is the name of the game here and we can all play a part, by buying from the Mirets or by planting up a patch in the back garden.

Murphy’s Little Big Night Out - in the afternoon!

Murphy’s Little Big Night Out
in the afternoon! 


Clockwise from top left: chef Larry McGrath, chef Richard Corrigan and his stew, Volcano pizza, trad in session, Corrigan's demo and Baldwin's Ice Cream.
Chef Richard Corrigan was the star as the Murphy’s series of Little Big Nights Out morphed to an afternoon of food and music at the old Beamish and Crawford Brewery in South Main Street.

Dubliner Richard, self styled as the “real” Richard Corrigan, took to the demo stage to show what he could do with sea bass and that demo, with Barry Tyner acting as MC, drew the audience but it was his Irish Stew at the Bogeda stall that drew the lines of hungry punters.

He is more into teaching nowadays and he told me his message to all young chefs is to get good fresh ingredients and then let the different elements, meat, fish, veg, even the humble potato, speak for themselves. No point in getting top notch ingredients and then drowning them in overpowering sauces or smothering their vital signs in marinades. The simple stew, with a well judged stout sauce (Murphy’s of course), illustrated his point.

Chef Larry McGrath was also in lively form on Sunday afternoon. You’ll be seeing him soon at the Olde Bakery Market on Wellington Road. He expects to be there on Friday nights with a brand new sushi stall.

Sober Lane was busy and had big queues lining up for their very tasty Chicken Goujons. Volcano Pizza is always a popular stall at these events, and at markets all over the city and county and, after enjoying a slice of their Pepperoni pizza, I now know why!

Starting out with a free pint of Murphy’s Stout for everyone in the audience, it turned out to be quite an enjoyable afternoon, with quite a lot of visitors there, including a couple from the south of Spain at “our” table. In another nearby marquee, a lively day’s trad music, curated by the renowned De Barra’s Folk Club of Clonakilty, unfolded as Murphy’s Bia, Ceoil agus Craic lived up to its billing.

Monday, August 27, 2012

Italian Start to Saturday Food Trail


Saturday Food Trail in Cork
Princes Street

Tasty

An old favourite


A new favourite from Tom's Bakery

Venison lunch
Started off last Saturday’s Food Trail in the city with a visit to a church, of all places. The Unitarian Church in Prince’s Street, Cork’s oldest church, was playing host to the Irlanda Italiana Cultural Association.

The association is composed of Italian friends who enjoy living here and are willing to share their culture. There has already been a series of events and Saturday’s was mainly about food and wine.

Restaurants such as Ballincollig’s Bacco and Douglas Cafe Moroni’s were represented. Moroni's were selling some gorgeous sauces. There were tasters of salamis and you could buy slices of tarts and much more.

There too you could buy Fabio Cavallini’s Traditional Balsamic Vinegars of Modena. Some were very old and very expensive and he also had a walnut liquor. You could even book a Italian chef to come to your home and serve up an authentic Italian meal!

Not surprisingly, the Boot (based on Forge Hill) had a big display and I couldn’t resist buying a pack of their Amaretto biscuits, also some salami. Some tempting wines were also on display, including Montepulciano and also Vermentino di Sardegna. Will have to call out to Forge Hill to see more of their 850 products.

Next food stop was the Coal Quay Market and a call to Tom’s Bakery stall. Usually go for the Country Baguette but this time picked a quarter of his huge Country Loaf and enjoyed it in a big way over the weekend.

There was also a little market in Paul Street in front of KT Max and here I grabbed a bite of lunch, this in the shape of a hot dog (€4.00), one with a Venison sausage from the Crough Farm stall.

Classy Burger at Greene’s


Classy Burger at Greene’s




Not a regular burger man but all that could change after polishing off a tremendous one at Greene’s Restaurant in McCurtain Street. Called in there one wet lunch-hour last week and got a gorgeous surprise when welcomed by Sylvia. We were there to try the bar food, which they serve from noon ‘til five. Knowing the work of Fred, the chef here, we expected it to be good. Sylvia confirmed that and then of course the meal itself was proof positive.

Our waitress soon brought us the menu which has a soup, the Burger, a Pasta dish and a number of baguette sandwich choices, not to mention one or two desserts. Enough to be going on with. We each picked the Soup of the Day (Potato and Leek) and the Burger.

Started with the soup and then came the Burger, my second of the week. The first was a mini version at the launch of Fresco Bistro. And what they had in common was top quality meat. The Greene’s one was served with a Jalapeno relish, smoked cheddar cheese and duck fat fries.

The melted cheese added to the experience as did the excellent relish, neither as red nor as sharp as some others, and the fries. Quite a lot of eating here and great value at a tenner. Oh, forgot to mention the bap. I usually leave at least half but this was so tasty in its own right that barely a crumb survived.

Quite possibly the best burger I’ve tasted and glad to have had a glass of the quality house wine, a Cabernet Sauvignon, to accompany it. Excellent service too and comfortable seats in the bar area all helped.

Saturday, August 25, 2012

SKIBBEREEN HEATS UP

Alannah Cawley pictured at Thornhill Organic Farm, Skibbereen.

SKIBBEREEN HEATS UP FOR FOR MUNSTER’S FAVOURITE FOOD FESTIVAL   
Festival to Celebrate the Humble Spud


Summer may be almost over and we may have missed the sun but Skibbereen is beginning to heat up for its premier festival, “A Taste of West Cork”. Ireland’s longest established food festival which is now in its ninth year runs from September 9-16 with a host of events to suit every taste and budget.

A Taste of West Cork is the best opportunity hundreds of local producers have to get in front of people who are passionate about food. This year’s festival is set to be bigger and better with a real focus on Ireland’s food heritage. Special homage will be paid to the humble spud as the nation’s favourite tuber takes centre stage with a variety of events looking at the importance of the potato in Ireland including a special workshop by Eanna Ni Lamhna.

The ever popular Schools Cookery Competition will see students challenged to create unique dishes centred on the potato while restaurants around Skibbereen also create their own unique ‘spudcentric’ dishes. There will also be numerous workshops, tastings and demonstrations on all elements of international cuisine with the full calendar of events aiding the extension of West Cork’s tourist season.

Among the list of other standout events will be the traditional open air food and craft market with over 100 exhibitors, themed nights in restaurants in Skibbereen and beyond, nutritional workshops, appearances from a host of celebrity chefs, including UK Masterchef winner Tim Anderson, traditional music nights and a special performance from one of Ireland’s best singer/ songwriters, Declan O’Rourke.

This year will also see the return of the very popular Celtic Cook Off at the West Cork Hotel which will see chefs from the six Celtic territories (Scotland, Isle of Man, Ireland, Cornwall, Wales and Brittany) participate in a ‘cook off’ event in front of a live audience, whilst also aiming to impress a panel of judges.

Speaking of the festival, Clare Gallagher, Chairperson said, “West Cork has long been noted as the capital of artisan food in Ireland and we are spoiled for choice with the range of locally produced products we have on offer. We understand how important local food is to our economy and with our wealth of artisan food producers, supportive retailers, talented chefs and award winning restaurants we believe West Cork has it all. Through the hard work of our farmers and fishermen by land and sea we produce world class food and combine this with the most idyllic part of Ireland, A Taste of West Cork makes for the perfect festival for all the family. The festival is also the first step in highlighting West Cork as a top choice of holiday destination to the Irish abroad ahead of The Gathering 2013. In this we are hugely grateful to Fáilte Ireland for all of their support and encouragement.”

She continued, “From seminars on food heritage, to food demonstrations and tastings, competitions between the best chefs in Europe and West Cork, and the grand finale of the biggest harvest food and craft market staged in the Fairfield, there will be something to tempt every palette.”

Many events throughout the week are free or minimum charges apply. To view the entire list of events, times and prices please visit www.atasteofwestcork.com

Friday, August 24, 2012

Excellent Lunch in Pat Shortt’s Bar

Pat Shortt’s Bar
Lunch in Castlemartyr

 It was just about lunch-time when we arrived in Pat Shortt’s Bar in Castlemartyr last Saturday. The place was packed inside. Luckily, there were seats in the outside area by the local river, the Kiltha, and so, for the second time in eight days, we dined al fresco in Ireland!

And we got good stuff. The starters were terrific. I got an ample helping of Bill Casey’s Oak Smoked Organic Salmon served on a lovely brown bread (€7.50). Bill is just down the road; chef Mike Hanrahan told me he collected the fish that morning. It tasted gorgeous, really impressed.


The local theme is strong here and was again well illustrated in CL’s starter: Ardsallagh Goat’s Cheese, black pudding, and pear salad, served on a bed of leaves with roast peppers and Ballymaloe Relish (€6.50). A terrific well balanced combination of textures and tastes.

Had more than enough fries earlier in the week so had to give D’Unbelievable Burger a miss. Settled instead for the Chicken and Chorizo penne pasta in a tomato and herb sauce (€10.75). Quite a bit of chicken and it was first class, the real thing, and the sauce was brilliant and gave the dish a nice lift.


Polished it off in the sun and then crossed the road to the Village Greengrocer where Shortt’s get their veg. Just a few yards up is Clifford’s, his butcher. It was a busy afternoon but soon everything stopped as dozens and dozens of motorbikes came through the village. It was the members of the Gold Wing Treffen driving their bikes from Cobh to Youghal. Just another talking point on a terrific day in the East Cork area.