Thursday, October 21, 2010

THREE REDS FROM THE MIDI

THE MIDI TRIO

The 17th century Canal du Midi connects Toulouse with the Mediterranean Sea and was built originally to transport wine. It enters the sea at Séte but also has a branch going out via Narbonne. Nowadays it is used more or else exclusively by pleasure craft (who can access other waterways as well).

It is one great way to relax. I have seen Irish boats there. It doesn’t intrude on the landscape and the towns on the bank are just so laid back. Have had some lovely meals in restaurants here, not to mention the wines.

Chateau de Pennautier is just six kilometres north west of Carcassonne, itself on the canal. At a height of 230 metres, the vineyard has great views and makes some terrific wine. It is the biggest producer in the Cabardès appellation and has been building market share since 1620!
Wine Museum near Carcassonne

Cabardès is the only appellation allowed to mix the traditional Bordeaux grapes with those of the Med (mainly Syrah and Grenache). My bottle, reduced at the time in Dunnes Stores, cost less than a tenner and proved to be well worth it.

It smells of berries and the colour is dark red. This medium bodied wine has a fruity taste but nicely balanced by moderate acidity and tannins. It has a decent length on the finish. This is a real easy drinking wine (remember though it packs a hefty enough 13% punch) and may be enjoyed with or without food. PR: 8/10

Gaillac is one of the oldest vineyards in Frances, grapes having been harvested here since Roman times. Gaillac, south of Cahor and north east of Toulouse, uses some rare grapes and in the 2008 red that I recently drank, old local varieties Far Servadou and Duras were the main ones.

Co-ops dominate in the area. My 12 per cent bottle was by Terrasses d’Auton, bought in France in June. Colour was a very deep red with both blackcurrants and blackberries on the nose. No shortage of grip here but the cassis came through well on the palate to balance. A hint of liquorice also in a well structured rich wine, a really pleasant surprise and one for the notebook. PR 8/10

Having recently sampled a magnificent rosé from the coastal area, I was really looking forward to my Bandol 2005 13% red by Le Club de Sommeliers, another holiday purchase. The main grapes used in this red were Mourvedre, Grenache and Cinsault and it had 18 months in oak to its credit.

Colour was dark and it had moderate berry nose. The tannins are immediately obvious but no shortage of fruit to balance and this medium bodied wine has a good finish. The back label note said that it is supple in the mouth (agree) and that there are notes of spice (yes, but muted).

Must say though that at the end, I was slightly disappointed. Nothing at all wrong with the wine but next time I’ll be looking for a different example. PR: 6/10

BADBOY


BADBOY SAUCES

A taste of the Caribbean came to Cork recently when Waterford’s Badboy Sauces displayed their wares in the city. Tasted a couple of the sauces that MD Jennylynd James presented and the Jamaican Jerk was something else. Other products include: Banana Ketchup, Mild Curry Sauce and Reggae Sweet Chilli. More details, including stockist, on the website.
www.badboysauces.com
+353 (0) 51 347799
Tramore, Co. Waterford

Check out my review of Badboy Sauces - I am cork - on Qype

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

MELLA'S BUTTER FUDGE

MELLA’S FUDGE 


West Cork’s Mella McAuley had a very popular stand at the recent opening of LocalMarkets.ie. Mella, as you probably know, makes the most gorgeous fudge in a number of flavours and has built up quite a following in recent years.

She started making fudge as a schoolchild and it was good enough to be carried by a local shop. Eventually, after trying other types of work, she began selling her fudge in the Farmers Market in Bantry.

The news spread quickly and soon she outgrew the home kitchen and now operates out of a unit in the Lisavaird Co-op in Clonakilty.

Her sweet sweet fudge is available all over Cork City and County and at outlets in Dublin, Galway, Sligo, Waterford and also in London. See here for list of stockists.

Lisavaird Co-op, Clonakilty, Co. Cork.
Tel: 023 8821958

Check out my review of Mella's Fudge - I am cork - on Qype

BUBBLES UP

BUBBLE BROTHERS 


Picked up some Billi Billi today. With a name like that, just couldn’t resist it.

Had called into Bubble Brothers  in the English Market today and, during a pleasant chat, found they were looking forward to an interesting time between now and Christmas.

Just last evening, they were one of the wine suppliers as LocalMarkets.ie launched in the English Market. Indeed, you may buy Bubble Brothers wine through the new company’s site.

The Toys for Big Boys Show comes to Cork for the first time next month. It will be held in the ARC Arena between November 19th and 21st

The show features luxury items and highlights include a Formula 1 car, a Maserati GT, a Ferrari and a Bentley among others. What have Bubble Bros got to do with all this? Well, they’ll be supplying the bubbly, of course.

A few weeks later, the BB boys and girls will be strutting their own stuff on home turf when they host a tasting event at their Wine Depot in the Marina Commercial Park. About six producers will be featured and there’ll nibbles galore and good deals ahead of the Christmas. Admission will be about seven or eight euro.

I was looking for examples of Pinot Grigio or Gris yesterday and picked up two for twenty euro here (individually, they came to about 25, but you get two for 20). One was Poggio al Sole Rose Colli Piacentini Frizzante and the other was the Billi Billi, a 2008 Mount Langi Ghiran from South Australia. Will be checking these out soon.

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

LOCALMARKETS.ie

LOCALMARKETS.ie LAUNCH

The English Market was buzzing last evening as Rory McCann’s new firm LocalMarkets.ie launched. The new firm, where the other principals are Peter Dowdall and Niamh Dixon, offers a collection and delivery service, collecting from local markets and artisan producers and delivering to customers from Crosshaven to Rathcormac (and maybe beyond that in the future).

Rory and Peter spoke at the opening as did the Lord Mayor Michael O’Connell and local politicians Billy Kelleher and Simon Coveney. But before that, some serious sampling had been done.

The two wines stands (Bubble Brothers and The Wine Buff) provided the lubrication as we made a start with Kate O’Connell’s Fish where sushi and oysters were available. Then on to some smoked salmon from the Old Millbank in Buttevant and spiced beef courtesy of Durcan’s.

There were other little nibbles available on trays before we made the big move upstairs where we started with a gorgeous paté  from Barrie Tyner, all served on the famous Arbutus Bread who were represented by founder Declan Ryan.

Great to meet tweet pal Dee’s Wholefoods and after a bite or two there sampled the BadBoy Sauces of Jennylynd James who offered various degrees of Caribbean heat. This was all taking place in the upstairs premises of the Farmgate Cafée and the “home team” served a generous portion of a lovely chicken curry.

A portion of top notch fish pie from Cronin’s Pub/Mad Fish Restaurant of Crosshaven followed before sampling the scrumptious organic fruits of Macroom’s Organic Republic – just loved the fig and date. Then some relish from Breheny’s Bellish for the Wicklow Brie on the next stand.

Also a  visit to Taste a Memory before ending the upstairs feeding with some terrine and paté from On the Pig’s Back where Isobel Sheridan was in smiling attendance.

Time now for something sweet and, downstairs, there was no shortage. Midleton’s Bitesize had some beautiful mouthfuls in mini-glasses and the macaroons from Christine Girault of the Sugar Café were irresistible. And another star here was the cheesecake by Glenilen Farms – must admit I didn't stop at one piece here!.

Something to take home? Why, of course.  Clonakilty’s Mella McAuley was on hand at this point, handing out little bags of her gorgeous butter fudge. 

A feast on the move. A terrific display from LocalMarkets.ie and the local producers. What a night.
Now, it is another day and Managing Director Rory and his partners are getting down to work. Hope it goes well folks, not just today, not just for this week, but for many years to come.

LocalMarkets.ie, The Rubicon Centre, CIT Campus, Bishopstown
087 9151767
  • I know I’ve missed on some stands in this post – hard to get to see everyone. Feel free to get in touch at cork.billy@gmail.com
Click on collage to enlarge

MARY DOWEY AT THE CORNSTORE (2)

Last week, The Cornstore (Cork) hosted a Gourmet Evening, with leading wine writer Mary Dowey and Gilbeys of Ireland, aimed at food and wine lovers.
The evening celebrated the best of The Cornstore’s new season specialities, with a special five course tasting menu created by Head Chef, Mike Ryan, using the best locally sourced produce. This was complimented with delicious wines for each course from Gilbeys, selected by Mary Dowey.
Throughout the evening, Mary provided information about her selected French wines, as well as some general tips on wine tasting. 
Here are some pictures (by Ger McCarthy) from the evening.
 Denis Ryan and Adreinne Ring from Crosshaven 
 Jim and Fiona Curtriss from JC Products 
 Wine writer Mary Dowey and Head Chef Mike Ryan at The Cornstore Cork  
 Deirdre Magee and Tadhg Lane from Carrigaline
 Padraig Falvey from the Cornstore, Mary Dowey and Mark O'Connor from Gilbeys 
Billy and Clare Lyons from Mayfield

Saturday, October 16, 2010

TOP NOTCH THURSDAY WINE AND DINE

THE CORNSTORE EXPERIENCE
Starring Mary Dowey and Mike Ryan

Renowned wine writer Mary Dowey was our guide for the evening of high class food and wine at the Cornstore last Thursday. Mary likes Cork and admitted she was trying to entice the husband to move: “It is much more cheerful here.”

The wine selection from the Gilbeys catalogue was all from France. Mary, who started writing about wine in 1995, has a soft spot for French wines: “If you are serious about wine, you never stray too far from France and never turn your back on France for too long.”

The fantastic evening kicked off with a Barton Guestier Sparkling wine. This Loire Valley wine is made with 100 per cent Chardonnay and provided the perfect start. And Mary remarked that, because of the acidity, champagne goes much better with some nibbles and the Cornstore came up with some really inviting ones, including a strawberry and cheese on a stick!

1st course  – Terrine of foie gras, Margret duck breast, toasted pistachios and tokai with pomegranate coulis.  For this, Mary choose the Riesling Trimbach 2008, and this was a splendid example of her favourite grape. She also pointed out that it is one of the very few wines that goes well with spicy food.

2nd course – Pan Seared wild sea bass with saffron potato, samphire, Jerusalem artichoke puree and caramelised walnuts. Here, Mary led us into Burgundy and to Louis Latour and their Montagny Premier Cru La Grande Roche 2007. Not a terribly well known AOC but that means the price is less. “The house though was founded in 1725. It is a reliable name, a beacon of re-assurance.”  A lovely  wine, floral and crisp, mid-weight and quite subtle.

3rd course - Roast haunch of venison with beetroot confit, wild boar black pudding rissole and forest mushroom jus. The 2007 Chateau Magnol Haut Medoc was picked to accompany this terrific plateful and again it as a perfect match.
This is another wine in the stable of Barton and Gustier, the oldest established wine merchant in Bordeaux. Mary told us that the Barton, a Fermanagh man whose first name was Thomas, left Ireland in the early 1700s and set up his company in 1725. In 1802 , his grandson Hugh (who built Straffon House, now the K-Club) teamed up with Gustier to form B & G.
The wine is 50% Cabernet and 50% Merlot and spends 12 month or more in oak. On the nose, you get backcurrant, spice and a “mineraly” aroma. The palate is rich blackcurrant and there is a good “grip” of tannin. “It is a wine for meat: venison, beef or duck.”

4th course - Farmhouse cheese board, with biscuits and fruit. Cheeses: St Gall (Cork) and Crozier (Tipperary).  For the wine, Mary took us over to the steep river banks of the Rhone and the vineyards of the Crozes Hermitage appellation. The example before us (which would have also matched well with the venison) was the 2006 Paul Jaboulet Aèné Les Jalets.
This well known 1834 vineyard had been going downhill somewhat around the turn of the century but a relatively recent Swiss investment has seen its fortunes turn for the better and this 100% Syrah (after a year in oak) was superb. Bright and peppery, soft and silky, its quality evident in the wine's concentration and deep black berry flavours. When I say peppery, I mean the more refined European (essentially Rhone) pepper and not the brash Shiraz blast that comes from another hemisphere.

5th course - A selection of desserts: mini lemon posset with rhubarb compote, mini apple strudel and apricot tartlet. The wine just had to be Sauternes, “the most famous sweet wine in the world”.
This Thomas Barton 2005 example is made of 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. As you'd expect it is very rich and lingers in the mouth. Considering that the Chateau Y’Quem Sauternes from the same year costs around €200 for the half-bottle, the Barton is another outstanding example “of their affordable range”. It costs about €20.00. If you don't finish the bottle in the one night, “it will keep in the fridge for weeks!”

While Mary was out front for the enjoyable evening, Cornstore head Chef Mike Ryan was busy behind the scenes. But his work spoke for him. It was superb; he didn't put a foot wrong from inviting start to satisfying finale. Hats off then to both Mike and Mary.

For further information on the Cornstore, check out their website at www.cornstorecork.com Mary has a holiday home in France, in Provence. Her own website is www.marydowey.com while she also runs one on Provence at www.provencefoodandwine.com

WINE EVENTS AT BALLYMALOE

Upstairs in the Grain Store
Mary Dowey, in town last Thursday for the Cornstore Wine Dine event, will be back in Cork in the spring to present here regular wine weekends in Ballymaloe House but, before that, the famous East Cork venue has some very interesting wine events lined up......
Australian Winemaker Dinner at Ballymaloe House, Thursday 28th October 2010.
5.00pm Presentation and wine tasting by David Hohnen, in The Grain Store at Ballymaloe. €15
7.30pm Reception followed by dinner with wines from McHenry Hohnen, which David will talk about during dinner. €70
David Hohnenone of the best known winemakers in Australia and New Zealand, and the man who founded Cape Mentelle, and also founded one of the wine world’s most iconic names, and arguably responsible for single-handedly introducing the world to New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with Cloudy Bay, is coming to Ballymaloe, in association with Anthony Tindal, Tindal Wines, to introduce us to his latest wines, McHenry Hohnen, from Margaret River, Western Australia.
His latest venture, along with his daughter, Freya, and David’s brother-in-law, Murray McHenry, is called McHenry Hohnen wines. A not to be missed opportunity to have a wine tasting with one of the iconic figures of the wine world. David Hohnen has been recipient of the inaugural Len Evans Award for leadership in the Australian wine industry, and twice winner of the famed Jimmy Watson Wine Trophy. David Hohnen lives in Margaret River, Western Australia, surrounded by vines, woodland, horses, sheep and pigs!

South African Winemaker Dinner at Ballymaloe House, Tuesday 16th November, 2010,
8.00pm reception, followed by dinner with wines from Durbanville Hills, South Africa, which Martin will talk about during dinner.  €70
Martin Moore, Winemaker, Durbanville Hills Wines, South Africa, in association with Edward Dillon & Co. Wine Merchants. Famous for its award-winning wines and its spectacular views, Durbanville Hills Winery stands proud in the Durbanville wine area a mere 20 minutes from Cape Town’s city centre.
From its vantage point high up on the vineyard it overlooks Table Bay and Robben Island with Table Mountain providing a majestic backdrop. Situated in one of the Cape’s coolest wine-producing regions, in close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the vineyards providing grapes to the cellar all add their own distinctive characteristics, contributing to the complexity of taste, texture and weight of every wine in the Durbanville Hills range. The wines have won numerous national and international awards.

Also some dates regarding upcoming wine courses at Ballymaloe – Gift Vouchers also available.
Wine for the Festive Season with John McDonnell and Colm McCan, Half Day Course, including lunch, Saturday 4th December 2010.
Ballymaloe Wine Weekends ‘Introduction to Wine Appreciation’ Weekend Course with Mary Dowey, 18th – 20th February 2011, and also 1st – 3rd April 2011.
(More information on these wine courses on the website, www.ballymaloe.ie )


Tel: 00353 (0)21 4652531 
www.ballymaloe.ie

     

Friday, October 15, 2010

PACO IS BACK


This coming Friday, ‘The Silk Purse’ and ‘The Don Carlos Ass Double Association’ will welcome their favourite Basque Chef Paco Guzman upon his timely return to Cork. Following upon the joyous success of Paco’s visit this time last year and the enjoyable Paddy’s Day Feast offered up by the Silk Purse Chefs in Barcelona, Paco will again head up the kitchen here in Cork for what is sure to be a memorable evening. This time Paco will draw upon the culinary experience he gained while Cheffing in Japan and will serve up a sexy taster menu of Japanese food. Spaces are limited so book early!
Japanese Taster Menu
Price €45 per person
ONE UNION QUAY CORK TEL: 353 (0) 21 4310071

THE WEEKEND CATCH

A bumper Weekend Catch, fresh from the Net.
THE WEEKEND CATCH
Restaurants Wines Markets
via Twitter & Facebook
Control and click to follow the links and find out more.


Ballymaloe Ballymaloe House Rachel Allen's new app just out http://fb.me/K8Rnzqxv

Manning's Emporium We've been pretty quiet on this page for a while but watch this space for updates on Christmas markets at Mannings Emporium and our next BBQ event on 27th December. We are at Blarney Farmers Market every Thursday now as well so come along and meet us there!

clodaghmckenna Clodagh McKenna My new cookbook, HOMEMADE arrived in store early. I've signed a few copies this Thurs morning at the General Store in...http://fb.me/LbIUHkRh

DailySpud Daily Spud Finally, #pfb2010 round 4 is done. May I present The Ugly Dumpling. In pictures. http://su.pr/78lQtE 

donalskehan Donal Skehan Mussels in Irish Cider: recipe up on the blog! http://ow.ly/2Rw2F

CometoCork Steve Cox RT @OliveTreeC: @_secretgarden_: Ballyhoura Apple Farm of North Cork who will B at the Apple Day ths Sunday.....http://bit.ly/d9mStm

Bibliocook Caroline@Bibliocook My audio report for @RTElyricfm on the @mccarthykanturk black pudding celebrations is now online http://fb.me/K3eQfkZc

Pat_Whelan Pat Whelan My first batch of Wagyu burgers great taste and very tender am going to sell them at the shop and online from tomorrowhttp://bit.ly/b0PfHp

cookingpeas Evin RT @jules_stonesoup rustic sourdough: the secret to amazing home made bread http://bit.ly/adkUT8 on stonesoup

foodforlivingie Food for Living I'm going to this: Tickets.ie - Event Information - Rachel Allen & Andrew Rudd - Cookery Demonstration tickets.ie/event.aspx/rac…via @AddThis

Cafe Paradiso Christmas party bookings are now being taken for groups of seven or more, lunch and dinner. The set menus will be available for three weeks before Christmas, from Tuesday 7th December. To make sure your evening begins in the right spirit, the dinner menu this year will kick off with a prosecco cocktail featuring our own sloe gin. Don't say we don't have your best interests at heart! You can have a look at the menus through the link below, and, as always, bookings can be made by calling the retaurant on 021 4277939. Cafe Paradiso: set-menu www.cafeparadiso.ie

Bord Bia - Irish Food Board Just back in from ecommerce workshop with Keith Bohanna and Brand Forum members. This company got a great response as an example of online marketing building on trend of 'keeping it real'... Dublin Milkman

LucindasIreland Lucinda O'Sullivan  by CliffHouseHotel David Heaton opens new Seashore Restaurant at Heaton's of Dingle http://fb.me/JIyUHaue

Ballymaloe Ballymaloe House Gluten Free Cooking, Half-Day Course with Rosemary Kearney, Sat 16th Oct, 2-5pm, at the Cookery School. www.cookingisfun.ie

Curious Wines: Ireland's Online Wine Store Calling all wine clubs - here's your chance to win two round-trip tickets to Australia. Curious: The Curious Wines Wine Blog » Blog Archive » Australian Wine Club Challenge 2010/11 www.curiouswines.ie Wine Australia is inviting all wine clubs to take part in the 2010/2011 Wine Club Challenge, the inter-wine club competition with a winner’s prize of two return tickets to Australia up for grabs.

Crows Nest New Menu – A Welcome Delight | Cobh Edition cobhedition.com On Saturday we visited the Crows Nest Bar & Brasserie, Rushbrooke Links, to try the new menu that they had rolled out earlier in the week and can only say that all the hype surrounding its release certainly made it worth the lunchtime visit.

localmarkets LocalMarkets.ie Free delivery on your first order on Localmarkets.ie . Why not give us a try and support your local producers if you're in our delivery area

Food Safety Authority of Ireland Hi, this Friday our food safety training experts, Anne-Marie and Sharon, will be online to help you out with any questions you may have. So, if you need to find out about training requirements; in-house training; resources available to help you train your staff; etc, Anne-Marie and Sharon will be delighted to help.

Wine Alliance Introducing WATV …..Introducing WATV [Wine Alliance TV]where you can learn more about our wines, where they come from and why we love them so much ! I am a little rusty at the video blogging and the Pegoes White is actually a blend of Fernão Pires (70%), Moscatel (20%), Arinto (10%) rather than the 100% Fernão Pires I suggested. But I will get practicing before the next  videos I promise. Let us know if there is anything that you would like us to cover...Source: The Wine Alliance Blog

donalskehan Donal Skehan Rustic Apple and Blackberry Galettes and a little info on my new kitchen up on the blog! Exciting times! :) http://ow.ly/2Su4a

Jacobs Onthemall Wondering where to go for your Christmas parties this year? Jacobs on the Mall have two fantastic set menus for large parties to choose from, a €44 menu and a €28 menu. Unbeatable quality, unbeatable price. Nights are filling up, book your party now! 021 4251530

Ballymaloe Ballymaloe House David Hohnen, Hohnen McHenry Wines, Margaret River (founder iconic Cloudy Bay, and Cape Mentelle), wine tasting 28th Oct, 5pm The GrainStore  David Hohnen, also winemaker dinner at Ballymaloe, Thurs 28th Oct, 7.30pm

ballyvolanehse Ballyvolane House Just back from the Georgina Campbell's Ireland Awards 2011 - Ballyvolane House won 'Family Friendly Destination of...http://fb.me/GS1qzqUF

ArdBiaNimmos  Ard Bia Galway included in 2011 edition of best-selling travel book 1000 PLACES TO SEE BEFORE YOU DIE by Patricia Schultz - amazing!!

DineinCork Dine in Cork The restaurants are sending in their menus this week. Some already have, they will be updated over the weekend.... http://fb.me/K2h8PIkr

donalskehan Donal Skehan Lamb Shanks with Colcannon Mash up on the blog along with some info on how to survive on meatballs for 3 days running! :)http://ow.ly/2TJcg

ummera Anthony Creswell Salmon 'losing genetic character' -http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-11525087

Greenes Restaurant Cork Our new menus will be out next week. We will be running a competition to launch the menus. The prize will be a voucher for the Dine in Cork week. Watch this space..... www.greenesrestaurant.com

Chocolate recipes, Perfect pizzas and Sweet potato  http://allrecipes.co.uk/


Control and click to follow the links and find out more.

We search the net, via Twitter and Facebook, each Thursday evening and early Friday morning, for the latest from the Cork restaurant and bar scene. If you don't have either of the above, reach us at cork.billy@gmail.com. Deadline 9.00am Friday.

Thursday, October 14, 2010

BLARNEY FARMERS MARKET

BLARNEY FARMERS MARKET

Twenty or so stalls set up in the grounds of Blarney Woollen Mills this morning as the regular Thursday Farmer’s Market eased (was going to say swung) into action.

Surprised to find an outpost of Manning’s Food Emporium there but not surprised at all at the quality of their offerings. Got interested in the cheese and after a couple of tastings and a bit of banter decided on the Coolea.

Bread was next on the agenda and a call nearby to the stall of Tom’s Bakery (from Kinsale), a regular market attendee, solved that as €3.60 bought a rye loaf. Mealagulla Orchard was displaying cooking apples at just €2.00 for five. Great value, as were the eating apples at €2.00 for ten. Left with two bags full!

Plenty of other stalls offering food, including cup cakes and relishes and honey (Is it a bit expensive at €7.00 a jar?) and then one or two “craft” stalls and also one selling Native American flutes! Nice mix all round for both local and tourist and very central as well.
 Mealagulla Orchard apples
 Setting Up
Outpost of Manning's Food Emporium

FOTA HOUSE CAFE and FOODHALL

FOTA HOUSE CAFE & FOODHALL 

There is a fabulous new cafe and retail area within the Billiards Room and Gallery at Fota House. Opening times are in tandem with the house and it is a great place to call if you’ve been strolling in the world class arboretum.

Was in there during the week a bit before lunch and enjoyed my coffee and rhubarb tart in the dining room where the window looked out on the sunny lawn. Service was pleasant and efficient and the tart was the real thing and well cooked.

Would have no qualms about coming back here for dinner and they do that on Saturday nights. Three courses and a glass of Prosecco for twenty five euro. Promising!

Fota Island, Carrigtwohill, Cork    Tel: 021 481 5543 

Monday, October 11, 2010

HERE TODAY GONE TOMORROW



HERE TODAY GONE TOMORROW
Euro Trio from 2007

BUZET 2007: They said I could keep it up to five years. They also said “it's a wine for today and for tomorrow”. Now, I say, it is a wine of yesterday.

Les Vignerons de Buzet is one of the leading wine producers in South-Western France and they can’t half boast. “Since the ancient times of the Roman legions and up till now wines of this region have a remarkably exquisite bouquet and unforgettable harmonious flavour.”

The land around the château was cleared in the 7th Century. Its soils were conducive to vine-growing and were well exposed to the sun. The Chateau they refer to is Bougigues and I enjoyed a bottle of the 2007 red yesterday. It is deep in colour with a modest though pleasant nose. On the palate it is dry but this full bodied wine has plenty of fruity charm and is easy to drink.

Bought this bottle in the Sarlat branch of the ubiquitous Leclerc  and it cost me all of €4.89.

ORBALLO ALBARINO 2007: From the Rías Baixas  , the most eastern region of Spain. My bottle weighed in at 12.5% and cost €12.99 from Curious Wines a couple of months back. 


The local Albarino (which accounts for 90% of all plantings in the region) produces a lively crisp, aromatic and bone dry (razor sharp, according to Janice Robinson) wine which is a refreshing alternative and is ideal with a wide selection of seafood.

It is bright and pale lemon in colour, with fruity citrus aromas on the nose. The palate is full-flavoured, the ripe fruit balanced by a refreshing smack of acidity. To sum it up: Dry, modestly fragrant, fruity, easy to drink.
Bodegas La Val is a relative newcomer as this bodega was only founded 20 years ago. It has since grown to become one of the largest vineyard owners in , with over 90 hectares. This 2007 vintage won a Silver Medal at the 2007 Decanter World Wine Awards.
How to pronounce Rías Baixas? Go here


BAGLIO CURATOLO NERO D’AVOLA 2007: The Curatolo family have been making wines in Sicily since 1875 and the Baglio Curatolo Nero D’Avola is included in their Premium list. This almost black 13.5% product is strong all round: plum in the bouquet and on the palate. It is full bodied with a powerful structure that makes you sit up and take notice immediately and has a long spicy finish. It has been aged for six months in French or American barrels and is a really smashing wine to go with red meat, ideal with Osso Buco.

The Curatolo range, including their famous Marsala, is distributed here by Liberty Wines. 

Sunday, October 10, 2010

STUBBIES and STICKIES

At rest in Monbazillac

REAL STICKY FROM COOKOOTHAMA

The Ozzies like their nicknames. A few years back I met a couple of guys from down under who said they described local journeys as three stubbies or four stubbies and so on. If you were going from, say Tivoli to Carrigtwohill, that would be a three stubby. Stubbies are small bottles of beer, so you could have one in the Island Gate, Waterman’s and the Elm Tree. Therefore a 3 stubbies trip!

Their name for dessert wines is Stickies. They are intensely flavoured and the rich taste lingers and reverberates in the mouth for quite a while.

Stickies are deep gold in colour with strong bouquets and a rich sweet flavour.  Their intensity of flavour means they are often sold in half bottles and drunk to accompany or even replace desserts.

Came across one recently in a local Centra which was then being upgraded  to a Supervalu and for just over sixteen euro I drove off home with 375 millilitres of a 2002 Darlington Point Cookoothama which proudly proclaimed on the front label that it was Botrytis Semillon.

The nickname is well applied here. It sure sticks. Golden yellow in colour, its sweetness besieges the nose. Candied fruit, they say, mainly orange, hints too of honey. And you get all that too on the palate where it lingers and lingers.

But can you get too much of a sweet thing? It varies from person to person but the answer is yes. This is so sweet, it could be a step too far for some and some nearby fell away.


A day later and revision. Ten hours or so in the fridge and the Cookoothama is somehow toned down, both nose and palate. Absolutely gorgeous. What a difference a day makes!

Think I’ll stick with the Europeans for a while. One of the best known (and it is a smashing one – they have an example on the Fenns Quay wine list) is the Hungarian Tokaji but most European wine countries have at least one example.

This summer, I was in the right area to try some of the French examples, staying in the Dordogne area, close to Bergerac which is next door to Bordeaux and the famous Sauternes.
Had something of a three cornered contest here between the Bordeaux contender and two from Bergerac: Monbazillac and Saussignac. Must say that I’ve come out in favour of the vins liquoreux (sound so much better than stickies!)  from Château Monbazillac.

While in the Dordogne area I also, more or less by accident, came to like the medium sweet wines, known in France as Moelleux. It might be a good place to start if you are feeling your way in this type of wine.

One that I did like was Cote de Bergerac Terrasses d’Autan 2009. It has fruity aromas, sweet white fruits such as peach, apricot and mango, on the palate and may be drunk as an aperitif, with a starter such as paté or with dessert. It was light and medium sweet as indicated and, take it from me, not at all sticky!

Saturday, October 9, 2010

FOOD ABOUT TOWN

AROUND TOWN THIS WEEK 

The International Airport Hotel  was the venue this week for a lunch, hosted by hotel manager Aaron Mansworth, in honour of recently elected FAI vice president Tony Fitzgerald. The Munster team were leaving as we were arriving and there were good luck hand-shakes all round for their game away to London Irish.

The hotel staff were obviously busy but that didn't stop them putting on an immaculate reception and lunch for Fitzgerald and friends from the world of football and the media. Really impressed with the soup (celeriac) and the main course (beef or salmon) as I have been with the grub here at various functions in the past.

Also made a coffee call during the week to the Farmgate Cafe. I was meeting up with Italian food journalist Vittorio Castellani. He was delighted with the choice of sweet things available and was more than pleased with the lemon tart slice (served with a large dollop of cream). I also went for that and the friendly staff served it up with a smile. I’ve rarely eaten cream at that hour of the morning and didn't over-indulge here but must say, in agreement with expert Vittorio, that the lemon tart was done to perfection.

Nash 19 was another venue that impressed the Italian as I knew it would! I was back there later in the week looking for something to eat on Friday night (staying in for the match!). Had a nice short chat with a busy Mairéad before deciding on the Fish Pie.

Sounds ordinary enough, doesn't it.  But give Chef Pamela fresh fish, potatoes, leek, cream, butter, flour, seasoning, fish sauce and herbs and you end up with a high quality meal for two for just €10.95. A week or two earlier, we had tried the Lamb Tagine and that too was a five star product.