Australia displays many faces of Shiraz

Australia displays many faces of Shiraz

 WineAustralia’s John McDonnell showed over a dozen quality wines in Fallon and Byrne last Friday. The aim of the tasting was to demonstrate that Australian Shiraz can exhibit both power and elegance and that the country can produce much more than just the big homogenous style.

With sixty four of Australia’s wine regions producing Shiraz, it would be most unlikely that they’d all come up with the same big, rich and powerful style. But that perception is out there. Two hours in Fallon and Byrne did much to dispel that myth. No lack of variety in this line-up.

 There may have been some gentle disagreement between those present, mainly restaurateurs and writers, about the comparative merits of the individual wines but, overall, the occasion was well worthwhile. Joining John at the top table were Clare Valley producer Tim Adams  and wine writer Kevin Ecock. 

Kevin, Tim and John

 2008 Ferngrove Shiraz, Frankland River. This first Shiraz was the only one from Western Australia and Kevin Ecock praised it as “an extremely good wine”. Tim said it reflected the “coolness of the district, angular, lean, with age potential.” Already we were talking about different types!

2009 Innocent Bystander Syrah, Yarra Valley. The difference here, at least the one that caused some conversation, was the fact that 2% Viognier was added to this Syrah (the only label that didn’t use Shiraz!). I don’t think the room was overly bothered about whether the minimum Viognier input was noted or not on the label.

2010 Tyrrells Rufus Stone Shiraz, Heathcote. I liked this best of the opening flight. It had nice fruit and spice, an excellent mouthfeel and the best finish. Tim classed it as medium bodied with “nice bright fruit flavours”.

2010 Wakefield Estate Shiraz. This widely available Clare Valley wine from the Taylor family (who believe that great wines are made in the vineyard!) was smooth and fruity, with supple tannins and spice hints in a medium body.

2009 Tim Adams Shiraz, Clare Valley. Tim didn’t use this to fly his own flag but did enlighten us on how water costs and weather variations are mega factors in the area and that winemakers have learned to grown more sustainable crops with better quality but at a higher cost.

This one certainly had quality and the price (€16.95) is not that mighty high. Kevin described it as the “standard bearer”. I thought it was a gem with power and finesse, really rounded, approachable, loveable. Brilliant.

2008 d’Arenberg Lovegrass Shiraz, McLaren Vale. This was something different, a blend of areas and a blend of varieties. It had a very inviting bouquet but delivery on the palate wasn't quite as brilliant. Mary Dowey wasn't so keen on it, saying it “suffers in the line-up here”.

2009 Wakefield Jaraman Clare McLaren Vale Shiraz. This was a blend of Shiraz from two different regions and I liked it, the intense fruit, the hints of spice and more, all excellent. Tim though said it needs more time, maybe up to five years, to bring even more out of the fruit.

2008 Tim Adams The Aberfeldy Shiraz, Clare Valley. The good news is that this is another gem, another complete wine from Tim, another with power and elegance combined. It has spent 24 months in oak but Tim guards against the oak taking over.

The less than good news is that the 4 acre plot, planted first in 1904, is “naturally dying”. It needs to be replaced and Tim is working on it. 

2009 Gatt Hugh Eden Shiraz, Eden Valley. This 100% estate grown smooth fruity beauty was the first of the final flight and got a big reception. Tim: ..absolute cracker.. elegant..poised..a very good example. 

Kevin: ...layers of interest...gentle and elegant.

2008 Jacobs Creek Reserve Shiraz, Barossa.

2009 Schild Estate Shiraz, Barossa.

Soft and elegant on the palate, the Schild was the one I voted for when a discussion arose about the comparative merits of these two. Quite a few had their hands up for this one though there were a few serious hands, only a few, raised in favour of the Jacobs.

2008 St Hallett Blackwell Shiraz, Barossa

2008 St Hallett Old Block, Barossa.

The tasting came to a brilliant end with these two, though only the first is available in Ireland. Loaded with flavour and colour, the Blackwell is intense and excellent. "Delicious," said John.

But the Old Block was something else. Tim said it was big and bold, “a richer version than the Blackwell, multi-layered with a great balance.” He advised that both were good for long term keeping and that he keeps them himself in his own collection. 

Yours truly with Mary Dowey.

The audience certainly enjoyed the tasting and the knowledge of Tim, Kevin and John. Indeed, John was urged to mount similar events in the future and to use the same formula (the same number of samples to be tasted in a 2 hour time frame). He was delighted to hear that his hard work had been approved and indicated that a similar Chardonnay occasion is in the pipeline.

Ballymaloe's Riesling Revolution: The Video.

Watch the video produced from the Riesling Revolution evening at Ballymaloe in Cork.
Please feel free to send it far and wide, let people know what a great, and unique, night we had. Click here to see the video. 

Riesling Revolution at Ballymaloe

The Riesling Revolution at Ballymaloe

Top left: Carl Ehrhard, Emily Moore (Karwig), Maurice O'Mahony (Wine Alliance)

Bottom left: John McDonnell, Wine Australia Ireland

Ballymaloe: The Riesling Revolution

With three of the wine world’s top Riesling producers onstage at the Ballymaloe Grain Store  last night, some came expecting fireworks. But a much more civilised tone prevailed, set by one of Carl Ehrhard’s opening remarks when he described Riesling as “the most fantastic white variety”.

They were all on common ground there and the appreciative capacity audience (about 140) learned much about the capability of the Riesling grape over a very interesting two hours.

Carl was representing Germany, Severine Schlumberger the Alsace and Tim Adams Australia. As well as each showing two of their own wines, they also showed two from their neighbours. They each represented their area well but represented Riesling even better as they helped us work our way through the four flights.

Moderator John Wilson (2nd right) with l to r  Carl, Severine and Tim

The young Riesling, perhaps still my favourites, featured in the first three and Tim was first up with his 2011 Clare Valley, one of his own with a beautiful balance and a clean refreshing lingering finish. Severine showed one from her area: the 2009 Trimbach Riesling, ready now but which may be even better in a few months.

Carl showed one from his “favourite vineyard, not his own but the neighbouring Kunstler: the 2010 Hochheimer Stielweg Q.b.A, Trocken Old Vines. The vines for this are about 60 years old and, despite 2010 being a “complicated” year, this had lots of flavour and was my favourite.

The next three featured were not my favourites, though I’m open to change! I really don’t get on with that strong petrol aroma that develops the aged Riesling. Tim had his own 2007 Clare Valley, an area renowned for its “long term keeping” while Severine said now was “the perfect time to have it” as she referred to her own 2005 Domaines Schlumberger Grand Cru Kitterle.

Again Carl had chosen from the Kunstler: the 2007 Kunstler Estate Hochheim/Rheingau 2002 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Erstes Gewachs. “Five years old and still so fresh.” This one I liked and it could well convert me to the aged Riesling.

The Riesling 12

I haven’t referred to prices yet but the next flight, the Off Dry, illustrated the range on the night with the easy drinking 2011 Peter Lehmann Art Series Class Riesling (Barossa) costing just €8.99 and coming bright and fresh in a very attractive green tinged bottle.

At the other end, Severine showed the 2004 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvee Sainte Catherine “L’INEDIT” Domaine Weinbach. Silky, intense elegant and rich, this beauty will set you back €65.00.

Carl, whose humour was highlight of the evening, had one of his own this time, the 2010 Carl Ehrhard, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Berg Rosneck Riesling Trocken Unstuck, a fine food wine with a “very big minerality”. Cost is €29.50.

All three were good and commendable, for varying reasons. Buy the Lehmann for the party, the Ehrhard for yourself and the other half, and keep the Grand Cru for yourself, methinks (looking over my shoulder!).

Calm in the Grain Store before the revolution.

None of the three sweet wines came cheap but good ones rarely do. Much of the work in producing them is manual and the processes are risky. Tim had the 2020 Mt Horricks Cordon Cut from the Clare Valley. The Cut refers to the unique risky process that involves cutting the canes when the grapes are ripe.

Severine explained that for her 2009 Domaines Schlumberger, Riesling Vendanges Tardives the grapes are late harvested by hand in October, having been carefully tended from their pruning in the previous winter. “The richness of these mellow wines is perfectly natural.”

Carl said that the year 2007 was “absolutely perfect for Botrytis” and that accounted for the outstanding desert wine: 2007 Carl Ehrhard, Rheingau, Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Beerenauslese.

Carl was quite willing to go and explain more but Riesling loving moderator John Wilson reined him gently and left the last word to another man with a great humour and also a great love of wine, John McDonnell (Wine Australia).

John thanked Colm McCan of Ballymaloe and indeed the whole Ballymaloe crew for their help in staging the event and also had praise for Karwig Wines (represented by Emilie Moore) and for Tindal Wines for their help in supplying the great range of samples.

All in all, a memorable evening and one where I for one, learned a great deal about this fabulous grape. Well-done to all concerned, especially to Colm and Ballymaloe whose future wine event list may be seen here. Don’t miss out!