Showing posts with label O'Briens Wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label O'Briens Wine. Show all posts

Friday, May 6, 2022

Celtic Cousins Linked By Wine. Galicia's Albariño Very Popular Here

Celtic Cousins Linked By Wine. 

Galicia's Albariño Very Popular Here 



Our Celtic cousins in Galicia, in Spain’s North West, are thrilled to know that their Irish relations are huge fans of their Albariño wines from the Rias Baixas region. Believe it or not, we are the fourth largest importers of this particular wine in the world!

Lynne Coyle MW


It has all happened quickly and relatively recently.  “It is a young industry,” said Lynne Coyle MW one of our hosts at the Rias Baixas Tasting in L’Atitude last Tuesday, “In 1975 there were just 200 hectares of Albariño here, now there are over 4,000, lots of small holdings, cottage farming. Indeed, Lynne herself has made Albariño in Rias Baixas, on an 11 hectare vineyard “which is regarded as quite large”.


“It is not organic here”, she told us. “It is a difficult area to go organic and they focus more on improving sustainability.” One method they use is to grow the vines on pergola type horizontal trellises. This helps ventilate the grapes and also allows the farmers grow their cabbages underneath!


Our afternoon of tasting and masterclass began downstairs in the renovated and always impressive L’Atitude. Lots of chat and lots of bottles lined up on ice for a silent tasting. Not quite silent though.

Basque vines grown in "pergola" system


They had a few sparkling Albariños on show and I immediately gave a big thumbs up to the Bodegas As Laxas Sensum  Brut NV, a gorgeous opener, from a winery in the sub region of Condado do Tea. The same winery also had an excellent still wine from 2020. 


As Lynne Coyle indicated, there are few large-scale producers but Martín Códax is one and a very consistent one. The winery is named after one of the most important medieval Galician troubadours and was founded in 1986 thanks to the idea of a group of winegrowers; as a winery made by people for the people. 


Their 2020 is of medium intensity with ripe citrus notes and tangerine. On the palate it is fresh with good balance and the citrus is there right through to the finalé.


Bianca points to the rias


Soon, maybe not as soon as planned, we were seated upstairs and Lynne filled us in on the area and later Blanca Valencia would enthusiastically tell us all about the similarities between Galicia and Ireland and also about the food of the area. And the first dish up was a beauty and typical: Razor clams, Mussel and potato crisp and a lively Olive and anchovy combo.


Val de Salnés, towards the north, is the main region. And it was from here and its granite soil that our first upstairs wine came from, the Mar de Frades 2020 in an eye-catching blue magnum with a big white wave splash as a label, the blue chosen apparently to remind us that this comes from the Atlantic coast where some vines have their roots in the coastal sand. And that ocean influence was evident in this dry crisp and elegant whine. “No oak, really fresh”.


Number 2, the Granbazan Etiqueta Verde 2020, also came from this area. Citrus and floral, “with more salinity, a quintessential Val do Salnés. The other sub regions are Ribeira do Ulla, the tiny Soutomaior, Condado do Tea, and O Rosal. 


Terras Gauda is perhaps my favourite from O Rosal and their 2020 tasted very well. This is, by the way, a blend. Mainly Albariño of course but with 20% Caiño and 8% Loureiro. 



You can expect more fruit in O Rosal and Condado do Tea, maybe not quite as fresh as those further north. O Rosal still benefits from the ocean of course while planting at altitude helps keep the wines of inland Condado fresh.  One of the big takes from the afternoon was that we were learning that not all Albariños are the same, that is there is quite a variety.



Lynne is often asked what should they change to make Albariño more popular? More sparkling? The use of oak? More blending? She was emphatic in her answer: "More of the same!”


Now, as Blanca took her turn we enjoyed a plateful of mainly bonito and sardines. Delicious, as was the final plate of cured meats and Galician cheeses. She told us that the area inland was very mountainous. “But the coastal areas are vibrant and dynamic. The scenery reminds me of Ireland.” 


She invited us to visit and not just for the Camino. But if you do find yourself in Santiago di Compostela, then head for the market and choose the seafood. It is not expensive. “So you don’t have to do any penance to enjoy it!”



And if you want to spend more, then there are scores of Michelin starred restaurants in the general area, one with a menu at less than 30 euro. 


People are very similar to the Irish, “they don't like to say no!” Someone suggested the phrase “I will, yeah!” They love their vegetables and greens. Pork is important, veal too and the cheeses are mainly from cows milk. Albarino works fantastically well with Indian, Asian and Mexican food also.

Tetella cheese (DO)


By now we were making progress on the second flight of wines. I noted two, both citrus and dry, each lip smacking. One was the Señorio de Rubios 2020 (imported by Honest 2 Goodness), the other, regarded as a modern classic, the citrusy mouthwatering Pazo Señorans 2020 (imported by O’Briens). 


Great to be back at a full room tasting again after the Covid enforced drought, not so much a lack of wine but a lack of company. And good too to have experts on hand such as Lynn and Bianca, with Lynda and Sinead of Wine Tasting Ireland keeping it all together with a pour and a laugh.

Wednesday, April 27, 2022

Supermarket Wines. Wines in Multiples. Celebrity Wines.

 Supermarket Wines. Wines in Multiples

Celebrity Wines. 



Supermarkets are where many of us bought and buy our first wines, and where many still buy all their wines. 


Two that I started with, decades ago, were the Sangre De Toro Red and Vina Sol White. Both are produced by the renowned and respected Torres family of Spain. I enjoyed those for quite a few years and both are still going strong in Irish supermarkets.


It is also in supermarkets that you’ll find most if not all of the celebrity wines, such as the Graham Norton Shiraz below. Graham now has quite a few to his name, including two Proseccos, even a gin. He and his Invivo wine professionals seem to be much appreciated.


Most of these celebrity wines are well made, not overly structured, and usually easy drinking. Not talking here about wines produced by celebrities that actually own vineyards, but rather about those who have teamed up with wine professionals to make one wine or sometimes a series. 


You will find decent wines at entry level prices in supermarkets and multiples. The first two below are good examples. The third, an easy-drinking bulk wine Sauvignon Blanc, hasn’t the longest finish but I don’t think that will be a major handicap when you’re enjoying it with a few friends and a chat in a pavement café or during a back garden interlude.


You don’t hear too much about bulk wine but, according to The Buyer, bulk (or rather bottled-in-market wines) it is the fastest growing part of the wine industry. 


Wine Folly: Some bulk producers have state-of-the-art automation methods that make solid, clean, and consistent wines year-after-year

So good value can be found for different reasons. And the reason in the case of the Romanian Pinot Noir from O’Brien’s is historical. Romania is only now recovering from the grim grip of the former Soviet Union on its wine industry and so prices are somewhat lower than the norm. But, with top wine companies investing there, expect to pay more in the future. In the meantime, enjoy!

Andre Goichot Fleurie (AOC) 2019, 13%, Supervalu €14.65 (€10.00 when on offer, as it was this Easter)



Fleurie is perhaps the best loved and also one of the very best of the Beaujolais area’s ten crus.  I’m quite a Fleurie fan and always look forward to opening a bottle and this was no exception, especially since I had enjoyed the 2018 not too long ago.


It is mid to dark ruby in colour. Cherry scents are prominent when you nose it and on the palate it has lots of deliciously fruit (raspberry, cherry) with a hint of spice and, importantly, with a refreshing acidity that helps create harmony right through to the dry finish. 


Medium bodied, it is soft and easy drinking, not a blockbuster or anywhere close to blockbusting, but it has character enough to pair well with a wide range of lighter dishes. The label recommends hard and soft cheeses and classic roasts, be it red or white meat. Worth a try also with spicy food.


Fleurie, like all ten crus, is in the north east of the Beaujolais region. Here, the Gamay grape thrives on the granite soil. The crus that produce the flagship wines are: Chiroubles, Saint Amour, Fleurie, Régnié, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Juliénas, Chénas, Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent. Not everyday, you can try out a cru for this price!


Graham Norton’s Own Shiraz, South Australia 2017, 14.5%, Wines of the World and Supermarkets.



This was one of some very enjoyable wines - my first time meeting this particular Shiraz - at a Wines of the World Blind Online Tasting with Kate Barry (of Barry & Fitzwilliam) in 2021.


The Graham Norton Shiraz is from South Australia and is a mix of fruit from different regions offering a reasonably complex wine with a deep ruby colour. It’s a bold in aroma and on the palate,  a juicy wine with character, just like the man himself! Perhaps that’s why they called it Shiraz rather than Syrah (the French name for the grape denotes, mostly, a quieter wine). It is a juicy and fruity wine and easy drinking for sure.


This Shiraz is quite a good wine for a tasting actually. It came to ours in a brown paper bag! Kate enjoyed tasting this one. “A dry wine with medium plus acidity.” She expected a high alcohol count, judging mainly by the burn at the back of throat, and she was spot on. Lots of primary fruit flavours plus some spice. Pretty good finish too and well balanced. “I’m a lover of this wine and I hope you enjoyed it too,” she concluded.


Usually priced in the low teens and widely available, including in Dunnes, SuperValu and Tesco. 


The Bend in the River Sauvignon Blanc 2020, 12.5%, (widely available in supermarkets at around eight euro)


 


The Bend in the River range by Germany’s Reh Kendermann is widely available in this country, especially in the main supermarkets.


The Sauvignon Blanc has a light straw colour with some green tints.  Light fruity aromas plus hints of Elderflower invite you on to a refreshing, balanced and well flavoured wine (citrus-y mainly but also green apple, gooseberry notes too) with a lip smacking finish. The wine is an excellent aperitif and a perfect match to spicy or Asian Cuisine. It certainly has that second glass appeal.


The fruit is raised in South Africa and imported and bottled by Reh Kendermann in Germany. It is therefore what is known as a bulk wine. It is not the only Reh Kendermann wine I’ve come across in recent weeks. They have a few wines (made from home grown German fruit) exclusively with Dunnes Stores and they, retailing around €11.00 to 11.50, are definitely worth checking out here.



Wildflower Pinot Noir Romania 2019, 12.5%, €9 (was 13.95) https://www.obrienswine.ie/products/wildflower-pinot-noir 


Romania? Haven’t heard much about their wine? Reasonable questions. But vineyards were first planted in Romania by the Romans so there is an ancient winemaking history here. Nowadays, according to the World Atlas of Wine, “EU membership has encouraged considerable investment in Romania’s vineyards and relatively well-run wineries”


This Pinot Noir is a pale ruby colour, as you might expect from the varietal. There’s a fruity nose (raspberry, strawberry, cranberry) and fairly spicy too. Very fruity on the palate, richer than you’d generally find in France. But it’s light and fresh, and acidity enough to make it very quaffable indeed. Good finish too. A pleasant intro to the Pinot Noir grape and excellent value.


The label says this is “an outstanding example of this famous varietal and can be enjoyed on its own, slightly chilled on a hot summer evening, or as perfect companion to BBQs where it will definitely keep all your friends happy.”

Sunday, February 20, 2022

A Couple of Very Highly Recommended Whites from O'Brien Wines. Chablis and a Marlborough Sauvignon

A Couple of Very Highly Recommended Whites from O'Briens

Chablis and a Marlborough Sauvignon

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Julien Brocard Boissonneuse Chablis (AOC) 2019, 13.5%, €25.95 (was €29.95)


This biodynamic Julien Brocard Chablis “is a revelation” according to importers O’Briens: “..this is a Chablis that leaves some of the best Premier Cru in its wake.”


Colour is a clean and bright straw. Intense white fruit aromas rise to greet you. These are reinforced on the palate, the purity of the fruit (citrus and a sweet apple) with an underlying minerality, all balanced by the acidity. A rich harmony all the way to a lengthy dry finish. Indeed, it is reminiscent of a Premier Cru and no hesitation in placing this on the Very Highly Recommended list. It has been part fermented in oak foudres, part in tank to open up this structured wine.


This Chablis is so well made, so precise from start to finish, you tend to reckon it is the result of modern wine-making. Not “techie” modern though, and it looks as if the sun and moon, along with the wine-makers of course, have that precision.


Speaking of precision, I have to admit I wasn’t that precise - let’s say I wouldn’t have passed any somm exams - when opening this one and its wax closure. But these closures are quite easy to open and you can see how on this video here


The 7 Lieux? Julien Brocard is the son of Jean Marc Brocard. In 2012 he launched his 7 Lieux range, comprising 7 wines made from plots in the family's winery in Prehy.


They say: The 7 Lieux wine was born from our desire not to exploit the earth, but let it guide us unrestrained. The soils formed during the Jurassic nourish the vines and impart a unique personality to them. The celestial cycles of the moon and sun in our northern climate give perfect maturity to the grapes. In adopting biodynamic principles, we have learned to respect this delicate union. The 7 lieu wine delivers a harmonious balance of taste and aromas as result of this intricate journey.


* Frost is a regular problem in Chablis which is somewhat isolated from the rest of the Burgundy. Indeed it is closer to Champagne that it is to the rest of Burgundy vineyard.

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Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021, 13%, €17.95


Pale lemon is the colour. Citrus lead the aromatics, classic for the area. On the palate, it is the turn of white peach to shine and it does, along with a supporting cast that again includes citrus. This is concentrated and elegant and not as “wild” as some NZ Sauvignons. And there’s a lingering finish. 


A Very Highly Recommended Marlborough and it goes so well with goats cheese as they recommend, at least with the Ardsallagh Phantom Ash that we had handy. Other pairings they hint at are fresh seafood, summer salads and light poultry dishes.


O’Briens tell us that Whitehaven was set up by Sue White and her husband Greg. “This wine is a perennial favourite with our customers and staff alike …..is quintessentially Marlborough.”


The winemakers: The climate in Marlborough is cool Maritime, with cool summers and moderate winters. Even in the height of the summer the region experiences cool nights, which help to retain freshness and acidity in the wines. 

 

By the way, they recommend drinking this 2021 Sauvignon Blanc while it is young and fresh, but the wine is capable of developing nicely beyond five years if carefully cellared. Serve lightly chilled

Thursday, February 3, 2022

Bubbles for your Valentine. Some sparkling suggestions!

Bubbles for your Valentine. 
Some sparkling suggestions!



The two best known sparkling wines are Champagne and Prosecco and they are, of course, included below. But so too are less well-known options such as Cava, Crémant, and Pet Nat.



Pet Nat-Bubbles without the hefty price tag

Pet Nat? Well, Pet Nat is an abbreviation for pétillant naturel, the French term that roughly means naturally sparkling.

Is it then a copy of champagne? Not so. It is the other way around if anything, as Pét-Nat has been around longer. Pét-Nat is bottled while still undergoing its first round of fermentation. The French call this process “methode ancestral” and you may see that on some labels.


You may see “bottle fermented,” or the Italian “col fondo,” (more or less a  pét-nat Prosecco). The crown cap and a little bit of harmless sediment are other clues!


The method, with variations, is pretty widespread across the wine world. Most are fun and good with food, especially lighter dishes. Simple, authentic and quite diverse, Pét-Nat puts the bubbles on your dinner table or even picnic spread. It sparkles without the hefty price tag.


Entre Vinyes Oníric Pét-Nat 2020, 11.5%


Catalonia’s Parc Natural Del Foix is the source of this pétillant from Mary Pawle wines..

Oníric in Catalan translates as dreamer and Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra), the aim being to rescue old forgotten vineyards and restore a balanced ecosystem. This 60-year vineyard, surrounded by a rich biodiversity, is in the Baix Penedes region (in Catalonia) close to the Med. The grapes for the pét-nat are Xarel-lo (mostly) and Muscat.


Colour is a cloudy yellow/lemon. On pouring, you create a large white “head” but it won’t hang about. This is easy drinking, approachable and refreshing, with good depth and length. And of course, it has that pleasant sparkly tingle. White fruit flavours and just enough acidity to balance make it harmonious all the way to the lip-smacking finish. A wine for sun and fun. Highly Recommended.



Champagne and Champagne Charlie


Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Blancs NV Champagne (AOC)



Pale gold is the colour of this Blanc de Blancs by Charles Heidsieck, imported by Liberty Wines. Unceasing fountains of pin-head bubbles race towards the top of the glass. Amazing concentration straight away, yet is is elegant on the palate, lovely balance and weight, engaging with a lively acidity also with mineral notes and a creamy mouthfeel. It is one hundred per cent Chardonnay and has notes of lemon, apple and pear plus orchard blossom and the typical Champagne toastiness. Very Highly Recommended.


Charles Heidsieck, one of the most admired Champagne houses, was founded in 1851, by the man who would become known as ‘Champagne Charlie’. Their size, and commitment to excellence, has been underpinned by a winemaking team that between them have been named 'Sparkling Winemaker of the Year' at the International Wine Challenge on over a dozen occasions.




Champagne Fleury B d N Brut Champagne NV, 12%, Mary Pawle Wines


This Blanc de Noirs is made from 100% Pinot Noir and is indeed a white wine from dark-skinned grapes. The Fleury family have been here in Champagne since 1895. They raise their vines, biodynamically since 1989, on the Côtes des Bar in the southern extreme of Champagne. Indeed, they are pioneers of organic in the area.


Back to the wine itself and bubbles proliferate here, racing to the top in non stop streams. It has a deep yellow colour, intense flavours and aromas, including the typical ‘biscuity” notes. The wine has terrific depth from initial sip to the lingering finalé. Dry and delicious. Unusually intense, impeccably crafted, this is Very Highly Recommended and well worth seeking out!



Beaumont des Crayères Vintage 2013 Fleur Blanche Blanc de Blancs Brut at O’Briens Wine.  

Intense, biscuity is the strong first impression as the liquid meets the palate. Intense and exciting from the engaging first sip, with fountains of micro-bubbles powering upwards, with biscuity aromas and flavours and floral notes too, this is one of the better ones for sure. It is made from 100% Chardonnay and obviously 2013 was a very good year. Very Highly Recommended


O’Briens, the importers, are also enthusiastic: This is one of the most exciting, elegant Champagnes that we have ever tasted. Made from Chardonnay grapes, the pinhead bubbles have an acrobatic exuberance in the glass. A perfect apéritif wine but the richness on the palate would also lend it well to food.”



English Sparkling and the other French bubbles


English sparkling wines are quite popular these days and some of the best are being made by Limerickman Dermot Sugrue (above). You will find them under Sugrue South Downs and Wiston Estate in the Le Caveau portfolio here.  


While online there, why not check out their range of Pet Nats.  


Crémant is the term used to classify French sparkling wines produced, using the Méthode Traditionelle, outside the boundaries of the Champagne region. The method, also known (within Champagne) as méthode champenoise, involves disgorgement and a second fermentation in the bottle and you can read more here


Exquisite Collection Cremant du Jura (AOP) Chardonnay, Aldi

Left it late? Pop into Aldi and get this excellent Brut (dry). 


I was very impressed with it. A sparkling Chardonnay, made using close to the same methods they use in making champagne, was perfect for my unexpected little celebration. It is not lacking in complexity, has light fruit flavours, a hint of biscuit (that you find in champagnes), and a fine finish. Good price too..


There are quite a few Crémants in France and many are excellent. Other Crémants come from Alsace, Burgundy, Limoux, Loire, Savoie, Bordeaux, Die (Rhone), and Limoux.


Saint Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux (AOP)  brut (Languedoc-Roussillon, France), 12.5% 



Did you now that champagne is not the oldest sparkling wine produced in France? That honour is claimed by Blanquette de Limoux which is also produced by the Methode Traditionnelle where it is naturally fermented in the bottle. It was first created by the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Saint Hilaire over 450 years ago. Written records survive from 1531. The abbey is 25 miles south of Carcassonne.




*****

CAVA

There’s some terrific Cava, the Spanish sparkling wine, out there also, so why not give the Iberian bubbles a try. Cava is a distinctive under-rated sparkling wine, made using the same method as Champagne.



Entre Vinyes Funàmbul Brut Nature Reserva 2017,  11.5%, 

€23.50 approx. Manning’s, Ballylickey; Mary Pawle

Fresh and dry, this elegant Cava is one for your shortlist; elegant yes, but full of energy and flavour (apricot and apple) and with amazing balance, all with a mineral note lingering on to the end. The mousse is creamy and smooth. This is pleasure to drink and Very Highly Recommended. Three grape varieties,  Xarel·lo, Macabeu and Parellada varieties, are in the blend. The wine has been aged for 24 months..

With an average age of 60 years, these vineyards are in the natural environment of Foix, surrounded by oak and pine forest, under a dry climate and on a porous soil (which swallows the water) and limestone, very poor and shallow, with hardly any organic matter. The great biodiversity present creates a unique ecosystem that naturally regulates the balance of the vineyard. Here, working in an artisanal way, they produce some terrific wines including this Cava.


 



If you haven’t tried Cava before why not head over to your local Supervalu and get a bottle of their Gran Troya. With its citrus flavours and a delightful finish, the pale gold Gran Troya is a terrific celebratory drink at an affordable price. Great for just sharing with himself or herself. If you haven’t tried Cava before, this is a good introduction. The grapes used are the traditional Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Try with olives, grilled almonds. Serve at 6-8 degrees.



Prosecco (and Franciacorta)


Prosecco in Colour!


Bubbles are usually associated with the all kinds of celebration  and the the fun is enhanced when the bottles come in colour as they do if they are by Bottega. Recently, I was lucky to have a couple of delicious bottles of Prosecco on hand, each by Bottega. The Gold Prosecco Brut impressed for sure but it was the Bottega Rose Gold that really caught my attention. It is a terrific Spumante Brut rose, made from Pinot Noir grapes grown throughout the Veneto.


The hand painted bottles are not only eye-catching but "reflect the quality and care put into producing this wine”. Bottega do not use chemical-based products for their "metallised" bottles; this means the solvent for the varnish is water-based, instead of being oil or alcohol-based like more traditional varnishes.


Aldi Exquisite Collection Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore (DOCG) NV,


From the heart of the Prosecco area, from the steep hillsides of Valdobbiadene in the Veneto, comes this DOCG Prosecco. It is exquisitely light and refreshing with pleasing bubbles, attractive autumn fruit flavours and  floral touches. Have to say quite an amazing Prosecco for an amazing price.


I had popped into the local Aldi in search of a Crémant de Jura but that was out of stock. I happened to spot this, including the DOCG, and took a gamble.


There is another Italian sparkling wine, Franciacorta, and it is well worth searching out. Again, the Le Caveau site can help you, here 


This Bellavista from wineonline.ie
The 1701 Franciacorta Brut DOCG is a blend of Chardonnay (85%) and Pinot Noir (15%).  The summer heat of the vineyard is tempered by the breeze from the lake (Iseo, about 30 minutes west of Lake Garda) and the mountains to the north. “We choose to keep it on the lees for 30 months, well above the appellation minimum. It is made in the traditional manner, manually harvested, with the indigenous yeasts, and a secondary fermentation in the bottle but with zero dosage.


It is a gorgeous sparkling wine, the palate full and generous, clean, fresh and elegant, apple notes, citrus too and that typical brioche note, beautifully balanced and a dry finish.