Festival Food & Drink Favourites #3: Bodegas Robles Vermouth VRMT

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #3

Bodegas Robles Vermouth VRMT, Recetta Andalusi, 15%,

€28.00 (1 litre) Mary Pawle Wines  Available also from URRU in Bandon and there may still be some in Toons Bridge in Dublin. 

A Sensational Vermouth That Has Been A Long Time In The Making.

Based on sherry wines that are aged eight years in oak barrels and enhanced by aromas and memories of the Andalusi cuisine (from Al-Andalus period, 8th to 15th centuries), this Vermouth is superb.

Thanks to Bodegas Robles and Michelin Star Chef Paco Morales who have recovered “the tradition of vermouth macerated by time and the work of our winemaking team who enjoy researching their own path and creating new sensation”. 

Its balance between sweet, bitter and acid allows a prolonged presence on the palate. The clove and cinnamon are the main spices responsible for the warm Andalusian aroma characteristic of this vermouth. This is a must try and one of our favourites over the festive season. It is imported by Mary Pawle Wines and comes in a 1L size bottle.

The base of VRMT Robles is organic Oloroso wine that has aged for eight years in oak barrels. A light touch of Pedro Ximénez wine displays a wide range of aromas of quince jelly and honey tones. The intriguing “solera” system mixes very old wines with younger wines thus mothering the young wines. A unique experience of maturity and freshness.

Bodegas Robles’ vineyards have the air of a wildly romantic garden, overrun by a layer of lavender, poppies, clover and wild plants, buzzing with bees and other insects. VRMT Robles is macerated with ten of these aromatic plants in an attempt to translate a real sense of our terroir into the vermouth

The study of Andalusi spices has been fundamental, following the indications of an anonymous manuscript of the thirteenth century: “The knowledge of the use of spices is the main basis of the cuisine, because they are the foundation of cooking and it is built on that basis.” The clove and cinnamon are the main responsible for the warm Andalusi aroma characteristic of our vermouth.

Pairings recommended by the producers are:

A good pairing for nuts, fruits such as orange or lemon, a cheese and raspberry cake., Any sea food and all kinds of fish: tuna, cod, salmon, anchovies., It's perfect with sweet flavours, especially those with more sweet and dark flavor. Olives, cheeses, ham, sausages, smoked meats, mussels, clams.

Very versatile, as you can see. But enjoy it too as an aperitif, 40ml or so over ice, is a lovely introduction before sipping it neat with any of the above. I also found it makes a superb Negroni with the usual suspects Gin and Campari, each accounting for a third of the drink. Still experimenting - just as well it comes in a one litre bottle!

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #1Fabulous Festive Feast from The Glass Curtain

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #2 Eight Degrees Devil’s Ladder Belgian Tripel

Top Wines 2020 Short List. Look to Chile's Itata for red, to Spain's Navarra for white

 Top Wines 2020 Short List

Found my Red in Itata, White in Navarra

Hard work in Itata - from a Liberty Wines Zoomed Masterclass 2020.

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca Navarra 2019 Mary Pawle

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

While most of the wine I drink these days comes from Europe (much of the red from France), it seems my favourite red wine area for 2020 is Itata in Chile. Light reds are emerging as a personal favourite and here in Itata, with the likes of Pedro Parra, Aurelio Montes and Leonardo Erazo working their magic, we are enjoying beautiful bottles based on País but also Cinsault. The four listed above are superb and I'm not inclined to pick any one over the others.

Aside from the Itata wines, Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Loire (Cabernet Franc), will also feature on my shopping lists. Indeed, the Passetoutgrains below is a gem. Navarra has some outstanding winemakers including Azul y Garanza and Tandem. Also in Spain, Bodegas Pinuaga made a big impression on me early in the year.

No Itata equivalent in the whites but the two from New Zealand  are outstanding and are distinctive examples of Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Gris. Austria is, of course, the home of Gru-Vee and Diwald come up with the goods year after year as indeed does Judith Beck. The three French whites featured are each worth looking out for. And Spain has come up with a stunning Garnacha white, by Azul y Garanza, pipping the Kiwis for my white of the year!

The Short List 2020

RED

Chile

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

France

J.M. Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape (AOC) 2016 O’Brien’s

Domaine Lacour Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (AOP) 2017 Le Caveau

J-C Regnaudot Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) '17 Le Caveau

Château du Cèdre Héritage Malbec, Cahors (AOC) 2016 Le Caveau

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015 Mary Pawle

Italy

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty

Spain

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “Colección” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2016 Mary Pawle

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014 O'Brien's

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017 Mary Pawle

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC)  Douro Tinto 2017 Liberty

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WHITE

Spain

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca 2019 Mary Pawle

New Zealand

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

France

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AOC) 2018 Le Caveau

Bertrand Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay “Coteaux Bourguignons” (AOC) 2017 Le Caveau

Rijckaert Chardonnay Arbois (AOC) 2018 Bradley’s/Wine Mason

Germany

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018 O’Briens

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC) Douro Branco 2019 Liberty

Austria

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019 Le Caveau 

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Red and White Doubles

Fancy a good pair of red and white on your table at Christmas table or indeed at anytime? Why not try the Le Caveau pair, the Passetoutgrains (16.95) and the Gentil (18.00), listed above.

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014. Both from O’Brien’s

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018 Mary Pawle

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty Wines

Pieropan Soave (DOC) Classico 2019 Liberty Wines

Andre Goichot Fleurie (AOC) 2018 Supervalu

Guy Saget Sancerre (AOC) 2018 Supervalu 

See the Long List here. 

And the Good Value List here.

Both should help you you in your quest for good wine in the run-up to Christmas and well into the New Year.

Amazing Amphora Raised Wine by Azul y Garanza from the badlands of Bardenas Reales in Navarra

Amazing Amphora Raised Wine by Azul y Garanza from the badlands of Bardenas Reales in Navarra

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca 2019, 11.5%, €21.90 Mary Pawle

The label info is brief and to the point: Single Vineyard. Made in Amphora. Low Intervention. Unfiltered. Limited Edition. 

Colour is a very light amber, a light cloudiness running through it. There’s an acidic streak in the aromas, reminiscent of cider apples. And those orchard notes come through too on the mild palate where is bright, fresh (strikingly so) and pleasant, a harmonious matching of fruit and acidity, and then a good dry finish. Off the beaten track, just like the place it comes from. Very Highly Recommended.

I regard it as something of a discovery and one that I’ll journey further with. It is produced from Garnacha Blanca in the badlands of Bardenas Reales in Navarra. 

They say: High temperature and no rain during the vegetative process advanced the harvest resulting in grapes healthy and very aromatic skin. The lack of water during summer has concentrated the fruit resulting in a great balance between the degree and acidity. The very poor and arid clay-calcareous soil, the dry weather and and the big contrast of temperature between the day and the night provide grapes with high concentration and a perfect balance. Fermentation: With natural yeast. 10 days of fermentation with skin contact for 5 days.

I’ve enjoyed some delicious red wines from this producers and now I’m off to a brilliant start with their whites.

Amastuola Bianco Salento (IGP) 2019, 13%, €13.69 Mary Pawle

This organic wine is made with a not very well known duo of grapes, Malvasia (75%) and Fiano. Colour here is  light straw. Floral and white fruit notes combine pleasantly in the captivating aromas. And your pleasure increases on the palate, the fruit still prominent, in concert with a lively acidity, all heading towards a citrus-y and persistent finish. Highly Recommended and good value too by the way.

The vineyard is in Puglia in the Southern tip of Italy. Production is organic with “a strong propensity for innovation, sensitive to the environment, culture and knowledge” The wine has been vinified and aged in stainless steel.

They say: Amastuola organic wines are the result of the skilful work of those committed, day after day, to putting into practice and disseminating the values that the Amastuola team strongly believes in, namely: respect for nature and for the neighbour. Whether for a dinner or an aperitif, Amastuola Bianco Salento is the right wine to amaze your guests. Its fresh and smooth-flowing taste makes it suitable to accompany aperitifs, raw seafood, risottos, white meats and fresh cheeses. Serve 10-12 degrees. 

Elephants, Emperors, and Popes feature in Rhone Wine story.

Elephants, Emperors, and Popes feature

 in Rhone Wine story.

Julie et Nicolas “Éléfantaisy” Côtes Du Rhones (AOC) 2018, 13.5%, €14.50 Mary Pawle

Dark ruby is the colour of this organic Côtes Du Rhone, one of the smoothest you’ll find. Intense aromas of ripe red fruit. It is fresh, pleasant and long. 

Good character and the producers recommend it as an aperitif and say it can then be kept on the table during the meal, versatile enough, they reckon, to go with white and red meat, vegetarian and also with goat and sheep cheese. Highly Recommended. Well priced too.

It is a not unusual Rhone blend, 40% Grenache , 25% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre and 15% Carignan. The vineyard, in the Gard, about 45km west of Nimes (where denim came from - think about it), was bought in 1930 by the grandparents of Julie Aubert who now runs it with her husband Nicolas.

Long, long, before then, Hannibal’s elephants marched across these lands, including what would become their vineyards. Julie and Nicolas are happy to adopt the elephant as a symbol for the power and grace of their wines and, now that the elephant needs protection, as a  symbol for their commitment to organic farming.

Julie et Nicolas Espirit D’Origine Côtes Du Rhones Villages (AOC) 2019, 14.5%, €18.10 Mary Pawle

A deep cherry red is the colour of this honest and generous wine, a step up on the more general Côtes du Rhones and a (small) step under the Côtes du Rhones (named) Village. The nose is redolent of dark and ripe fruits, with a streak of spice. No shortage of flavour or spice on the palate either, supple and harmonious with beautiful tannins, this is made for food such as red meats (boeuf bourguignon, venison, lamb, coq au vin) and mature cheeses. Serve at 15-17 degrees. 

Good to have a few of these at hand as they are so versatile. As you may gather, I certainly like this Rhone GSM (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre). Straddling both banks of the mighty Rhone, the AC stretches from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south. The current success owes much to the setting up of the AOC in 1937 and subsequently a policy of keeping yields down enabled constant improvement. 

Hannibal and Julius Caesar may have had an influence on the Rhone area but it is a pope and wine critic that put the local wines on the map.  In 1309 when Pope Clement V moved the papacy from Rome to Avignon. Most of the wine drunk in the temporary papal palace (they also had a summer palace called Chateauneuf du Pape) was from the local area and so, with the imprimatur of the Holy See, the fashion for Rhone wine began in earnest. 

Clement of course came from a Graves wine family (think Chateau Pape Clement!) and would be followed by five more popes before the move back to Rome. The papacy was here for 67 years, time to drink a lot of wine and time too to build its reputation!

The Rhone was firmly among the most respected wines in France when infallibility of another kind arrived in the 1980s. Robert Parker, the American wine guru, "intervened". He just loved the naturally ripe style and gave them very high scores and his many international "followers" took his word for it, bought the wines and found out for themselves just how good the Rhone bottles really are.

In between Pape and Parker, there was the wind of 1956, perhaps even more influential than the famous pair. Then the Mistral battered the region for three weeks and contributed to the temperature dropping to minus 15 degrees. The olive trees, then the big crop in the area, suffered badly but the vines resisted so well that a majority of farmers turned to vine cultivation.

A French Red and White. Each Very Highly Recommended.

A French Red and White. Each Very Highly Recommended. 

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018, 13.5%, €16.60 Mary Pawle

A very approachable Pinot Noir with good body and length. 

That’s how importer May Pawle sums up this Pay D’Oc Pinot Noir and indeed you soon realise why it’s “A real favourite with our customers.”

Colour is a shiny mid to dark ruby. And the aromas, cherry and berry, are just as attractive. The good news continues on the palate with a pleasing mouthfeel and a host of black cherry notes. Very soft tannins too and a long finish. 

The Languedoc may not be the usual place for Pinot Noir but this is a winner all the way and Very Highly Recommended. Which is what I also said about the 2015. Serve at 15 -16°C with grilled vegetables and meat (duck, lamb), poultry, even medium spiced Indian food.

De Brau make full use of the Languedoc's predictable sunshine and the cooling sea breezes. A desirable scenario for growing grapes! This organic wine is part of the winery’s PURE range, started in 2006. Other single varietals include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah along with Viognier, Egiodola, Petit Verdot, and Fer Servadou. Some unusual grapes there!

Fessardière “La Gloire De Nos Pères”  Sur Lie Muscadet Sevre et Maine (AOC) 2016, 12%, €18.25 Mary Pawle

The outward signs are good with this wine from the vineyards of Nantes, a city where many an Irish driver got lost in the early days of Brittany Ferries.

It was around here too that many of us made our first acquaintance with Muscadet, usually from the bottom shelf or, perhaps more daringly, from the one just above it. And then we had so much of it (and Gros Plant, which also needs lees to improve its character), we went off it. Bit by bit though, we began to realise there was really good Muscadet and many of them had the magic words “Sur Lie” on the label.

This one has those two words and a beautiful golden colour. Gorgeous aromas too, melon, muted aniseed, floral notes. An amazing concentration on the palate, sharp pineapple, more rounded apricot, and a salty acidity too. And that enlivening fresh and fruity combination tango all the way to a persistent finish. Second glass appeal? You bet. Second shelf for this one? I think you could safely go a little higher. Very Highly Recommended.

This is relatively new to the Mary Pawle portfolio (though she has some other excellent Muscadet from the same producers). “There is more than a hint of the briny Atlantic Ocean in this full bodied wine. Ideally open a short while before serving and you will be well rewarded.”

The label advises much the same: Open one hour in advance, serve 10-12 degrees. It pairs well with fish, spicy white meats, and apéritifs gourmands. Domaine de la Fessardière is located in the west of Loire Valley in the heart of the vineyard of Nantes City. The 25 hectares domain is essentially planted with Melon de Bourgogne grape variety, the grape used to produce Muscadet. Since 1997 vine growing has been following organic methods.  

A Jewel From The Desert As Mary Pawle Goes To The Limit Once Again!

 

Azul y Garanza “Garciano” 2017 Navarra DO, 14.5%, €16.00 Mary Pawle

This organic blend of Garnacha and Graciano (from the edges of Europe’s largest desert ) is mid-ruby in colour with fresh raspberry and blackberry prominent on the nose. The fruity and spicy Garnacha with the “subtle acidity” of the Graciano make a great match as you can sense on the palate where it is quite intense, smooth and balanced. Very Highly Recommended.

The wine comes from an amazing area, the Bardenas Reales, a semi-desert or badlands. The very poor and arid clay-calcareous soil, the dry weather and the big contrast of temperature between the day and the night provide grapes with high concentration and a perfect balance and also offers distinctive character and great expression.The blend is 60% Garnacha and 40% Graciano and it spends some 6 months in French oak.

Azul y Garanza are organic but go further, planting fruit trees and native aromatic plants around the vineyards. “Working this way, we break the monoculture and we create a wider eco-system.”

They say: In Garciano, delicate Garnacha and indomitable Graciano find perfect harmony, like two souls merged in a single body. That explains the two-headed animal, sheep and predator, on the label.

Entre Vignes “Oníric” Xarel-lo Penedès (DO) 2019, 12.5%, €13.15 Mary Pawle

You probably know that the Xarel-lo is one of the main grapes in Cava. On a solo here, it has a light gold colour. Floral and white fruit in the intense aromatics. Good lively acidity immediately noticeable, silky yet tangy with a hint of bitterness, assertive from start to long finish. Lovely mouthfeel. Highly Recommended. Well priced also.

Mary Pawle says: Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra) and this Penedes white is a lovely expression of the local grape variety.

Not so long ago, we enjoyed the Oníric Pet-Nat, details here. Oníric in Catalan translates as dreamer and Maria Barrena’s aim is to rescue old forgotten vineyards and restore a balanced ecosystem. This 60-year vineyard, surrounded by a rich biodiversity, is in the Baix Penedes region (in Catalonia) close to the Med.

Recommended food pairings are seafood and hard cheeses. I think though it is very versatile. Try it with tuna, salads with herbs (even a Caprese), and also Pork and vegetarian dishes.

If Douro or Duero is on the bottle label, you're on an Iberian winner. The River and its Wine.

The River and its Wine

The river begins its journey in the centre of the north of Spain and is called the Duero. Five hundred miles to the west, it enters the Atlantic at Porto where it is now called Douro. Not quite a river of wine but there is no shortage of the drink as you travel from east to west, from Spain to Portugal. Our first bottle below comes from the Spanish area known as Ribera del Duero (ribera means riverbank). In Portugal, the amazingly scenic Douro is perhaps best known as the home of Port but here too you will find excellent still wines such as the example below from Quinta Da Esteveira. 

Viña Fuentenarro “4 Mesas En Barrica” Ribera Del Duero (D0) 2018, 14%, 

€16.55 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Tempranillo, in many Irish people’s minds, is the grape of Rioja. And it is. But, since the end of the 20th century, the 300 plus bodegas of Ribera Del Duero are also laying a strong claim to the grape by making some excellent wines with it.

This deep red Fuentenarro (from a family owned winery) is a 100% Tempranillo. Traditional aromas of black berry fruit, touch of spice. Big intro of fruit and spice, no shortage of acidity either, juicy yet dry. Powerful start eases smoothly down to  super-long finish. One to sip - a little goes a long way - and enjoy your long lunch or dinner as the sun goes down. Very Highly Recommended. That it is well priced is a bonus.

Wine has been produced in this beautiful region since Roman times, though it became well known outside of Spain only in the 1990s. North west of Madrid and south west of Rioja, in the Castilla y León region, the vines grow on a flowing swathe of land that’s approximately 115 kms long and 35 kms wide. 

The vast majority (including Fuentenarro, near La Horra) grow in the province of Burgos but some too in Segovia, Soria (Antidoto, for example) and Valladolid.

Two related factors that make Ribera different are the average altitude of 850 metres and the big variations in summer between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. The heat of the day promotes the ripening, the chill of the night preserves acidity. 

Casel Dos Jordões Quinta Da Esteveira Reserva Tinto Douro (DOC) 2014, 14.5%, €15.20 Mary Pawle

This organic Portuguese blend is a dark red colour. Rich and ripe aromas. Smooth, fruity and a bit spicy, a lovely mouthful with a good finish as well. Highly Recommended. Pretty well priced too.

The label indicates the blend is composed of 70% Touriga Franca, 20% Touriga Nacional, 10% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain). It also recommends pairing with meat dishes, cheese, smoked meats and roasted chestnuts. 

Two of the grape varieties, the two Tourigas, are also used in the production of Port. The Jordoes family began producing wine from terraced vineyards on the slopes above the river Torto in 1870 and, since 1994 have championed the production of organic port. They are just one of quite a few Port producers also involved in still wine (no big surprise there!).

#DrinkResponsibly

Two Lovely Whites from the southern half of France

Two Lovely Whites from

 the southern half of France

Terroir Feely “Luminosité” 2016, 13.5%, €19.00 Mary Pawle

The fruit for Luminosité is grown and the wine’s bottled by Sean and Caro Feely in Saussignac in Bergerac (next door to Bordeaux). They pack a fair bit of info onto the label: Vin de France sec, Sauvignon blanc 50%, Semillon 50%, zesty fruit, luminosity of nature, organic and biodynamic, hand-harvested, indigenous yeast, unfined, vegan friendly.

Light straw colour. Aromas of quince and gooseberry. Zesty flavours on the palate, quite intense, with a pleasant astringency, lovely mouthfeel too (has this been on its lees for a spell?), and a persistent finish. What’s not to like?

This Irish-South African couple “are passionate about the environment” and I think you can taste the difference here, without any funky stuff in either aroma or flavour. Highly Recommended. Find out more about the Feelys here - they have quite a lot to offer if you are visiting the area. 

Jacques Frelin “La Marouette” Chardonnay Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018, 13%, €13.30 Mary Pawle

Colour of this organic Chardonnay from the South of France is a light straw. Pleasant floral aromas of modest intensity. This is a fresh one, peach and citrus flavours with a lively acidity to help at the table. Ideal as an aperitif or with a few grilled sardines. The label also indicates a match with shellfish and sole meuniere. Serve at 8-10 degrees for best results. 

For over thirty years now, Jacques Frelin has been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country including the Languedoc where this wine comes from, “very popular with our customers” says importer Mary Pawle and I can see why. Highly Recommended. Well priced too.