A French Red and White. Each Very Highly Recommended.

A French Red and White. Each Very Highly Recommended. 

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018, 13.5%, €16.60 Mary Pawle

A very approachable Pinot Noir with good body and length. 

That’s how importer May Pawle sums up this Pay D’Oc Pinot Noir and indeed you soon realise why it’s “A real favourite with our customers.”

Colour is a shiny mid to dark ruby. And the aromas, cherry and berry, are just as attractive. The good news continues on the palate with a pleasing mouthfeel and a host of black cherry notes. Very soft tannins too and a long finish. 

The Languedoc may not be the usual place for Pinot Noir but this is a winner all the way and Very Highly Recommended. Which is what I also said about the 2015. Serve at 15 -16°C with grilled vegetables and meat (duck, lamb), poultry, even medium spiced Indian food.

De Brau make full use of the Languedoc's predictable sunshine and the cooling sea breezes. A desirable scenario for growing grapes! This organic wine is part of the winery’s PURE range, started in 2006. Other single varietals include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah along with Viognier, Egiodola, Petit Verdot, and Fer Servadou. Some unusual grapes there!

Fessardière “La Gloire De Nos Pères”  Sur Lie Muscadet Sevre et Maine (AOC) 2016, 12%, €18.25 Mary Pawle

The outward signs are good with this wine from the vineyards of Nantes, a city where many an Irish driver got lost in the early days of Brittany Ferries.

It was around here too that many of us made our first acquaintance with Muscadet, usually from the bottom shelf or, perhaps more daringly, from the one just above it. And then we had so much of it (and Gros Plant, which also needs lees to improve its character), we went off it. Bit by bit though, we began to realise there was really good Muscadet and many of them had the magic words “Sur Lie” on the label.

This one has those two words and a beautiful golden colour. Gorgeous aromas too, melon, muted aniseed, floral notes. An amazing concentration on the palate, sharp pineapple, more rounded apricot, and a salty acidity too. And that enlivening fresh and fruity combination tango all the way to a persistent finish. Second glass appeal? You bet. Second shelf for this one? I think you could safely go a little higher. Very Highly Recommended.

This is relatively new to the Mary Pawle portfolio (though she has some other excellent Muscadet from the same producers). “There is more than a hint of the briny Atlantic Ocean in this full bodied wine. Ideally open a short while before serving and you will be well rewarded.”

The label advises much the same: Open one hour in advance, serve 10-12 degrees. It pairs well with fish, spicy white meats, and apéritifs gourmands. Domaine de la Fessardière is located in the west of Loire Valley in the heart of the vineyard of Nantes City. The 25 hectares domain is essentially planted with Melon de Bourgogne grape variety, the grape used to produce Muscadet. Since 1997 vine growing has been following organic methods.  

A Jewel From The Desert As Mary Pawle Goes To The Limit Once Again!

 

Azul y Garanza “Garciano” 2017 Navarra DO, 14.5%, €16.00 Mary Pawle

This organic blend of Garnacha and Graciano (from the edges of Europe’s largest desert ) is mid-ruby in colour with fresh raspberry and blackberry prominent on the nose. The fruity and spicy Garnacha with the “subtle acidity” of the Graciano make a great match as you can sense on the palate where it is quite intense, smooth and balanced. Very Highly Recommended.

The wine comes from an amazing area, the Bardenas Reales, a semi-desert or badlands. The very poor and arid clay-calcareous soil, the dry weather and the big contrast of temperature between the day and the night provide grapes with high concentration and a perfect balance and also offers distinctive character and great expression.The blend is 60% Garnacha and 40% Graciano and it spends some 6 months in French oak.

Azul y Garanza are organic but go further, planting fruit trees and native aromatic plants around the vineyards. “Working this way, we break the monoculture and we create a wider eco-system.”

They say: In Garciano, delicate Garnacha and indomitable Graciano find perfect harmony, like two souls merged in a single body. That explains the two-headed animal, sheep and predator, on the label.

Entre Vignes “Oníric” Xarel-lo Penedès (DO) 2019, 12.5%, €13.15 Mary Pawle

You probably know that the Xarel-lo is one of the main grapes in Cava. On a solo here, it has a light gold colour. Floral and white fruit in the intense aromatics. Good lively acidity immediately noticeable, silky yet tangy with a hint of bitterness, assertive from start to long finish. Lovely mouthfeel. Highly Recommended. Well priced also.

Mary Pawle says: Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra) and this Penedes white is a lovely expression of the local grape variety.

Not so long ago, we enjoyed the Oníric Pet-Nat, details here. Oníric in Catalan translates as dreamer and Maria Barrena’s aim is to rescue old forgotten vineyards and restore a balanced ecosystem. This 60-year vineyard, surrounded by a rich biodiversity, is in the Baix Penedes region (in Catalonia) close to the Med.

Recommended food pairings are seafood and hard cheeses. I think though it is very versatile. Try it with tuna, salads with herbs (even a Caprese), and also Pork and vegetarian dishes.

If Douro or Duero is on the bottle label, you're on an Iberian winner. The River and its Wine.

The River and its Wine

The river begins its journey in the centre of the north of Spain and is called the Duero. Five hundred miles to the west, it enters the Atlantic at Porto where it is now called Douro. Not quite a river of wine but there is no shortage of the drink as you travel from east to west, from Spain to Portugal. Our first bottle below comes from the Spanish area known as Ribera del Duero (ribera means riverbank). In Portugal, the amazingly scenic Douro is perhaps best known as the home of Port but here too you will find excellent still wines such as the example below from Quinta Da Esteveira. 

Viña Fuentenarro “4 Mesas En Barrica” Ribera Del Duero (D0) 2018, 14%, 

€16.55 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Tempranillo, in many Irish people’s minds, is the grape of Rioja. And it is. But, since the end of the 20th century, the 300 plus bodegas of Ribera Del Duero are also laying a strong claim to the grape by making some excellent wines with it.

This deep red Fuentenarro (from a family owned winery) is a 100% Tempranillo. Traditional aromas of black berry fruit, touch of spice. Big intro of fruit and spice, no shortage of acidity either, juicy yet dry. Powerful start eases smoothly down to  super-long finish. One to sip - a little goes a long way - and enjoy your long lunch or dinner as the sun goes down. Very Highly Recommended. That it is well priced is a bonus.

Wine has been produced in this beautiful region since Roman times, though it became well known outside of Spain only in the 1990s. North west of Madrid and south west of Rioja, in the Castilla y León region, the vines grow on a flowing swathe of land that’s approximately 115 kms long and 35 kms wide. 

The vast majority (including Fuentenarro, near La Horra) grow in the province of Burgos but some too in Segovia, Soria (Antidoto, for example) and Valladolid.

Two related factors that make Ribera different are the average altitude of 850 metres and the big variations in summer between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. The heat of the day promotes the ripening, the chill of the night preserves acidity. 

Casel Dos Jordões Quinta Da Esteveira Reserva Tinto Douro (DOC) 2014, 14.5%, €15.20 Mary Pawle

This organic Portuguese blend is a dark red colour. Rich and ripe aromas. Smooth, fruity and a bit spicy, a lovely mouthful with a good finish as well. Highly Recommended. Pretty well priced too.

The label indicates the blend is composed of 70% Touriga Franca, 20% Touriga Nacional, 10% Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain). It also recommends pairing with meat dishes, cheese, smoked meats and roasted chestnuts. 

Two of the grape varieties, the two Tourigas, are also used in the production of Port. The Jordoes family began producing wine from terraced vineyards on the slopes above the river Torto in 1870 and, since 1994 have championed the production of organic port. They are just one of quite a few Port producers also involved in still wine (no big surprise there!).

#DrinkResponsibly

Two Lovely Whites from the southern half of France

Two Lovely Whites from

 the southern half of France

Terroir Feely “Luminosité” 2016, 13.5%, €19.00 Mary Pawle

The fruit for Luminosité is grown and the wine’s bottled by Sean and Caro Feely in Saussignac in Bergerac (next door to Bordeaux). They pack a fair bit of info onto the label: Vin de France sec, Sauvignon blanc 50%, Semillon 50%, zesty fruit, luminosity of nature, organic and biodynamic, hand-harvested, indigenous yeast, unfined, vegan friendly.

Light straw colour. Aromas of quince and gooseberry. Zesty flavours on the palate, quite intense, with a pleasant astringency, lovely mouthfeel too (has this been on its lees for a spell?), and a persistent finish. What’s not to like?

This Irish-South African couple “are passionate about the environment” and I think you can taste the difference here, without any funky stuff in either aroma or flavour. Highly Recommended. Find out more about the Feelys here - they have quite a lot to offer if you are visiting the area. 

Jacques Frelin “La Marouette” Chardonnay Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018, 13%, €13.30 Mary Pawle

Colour of this organic Chardonnay from the South of France is a light straw. Pleasant floral aromas of modest intensity. This is a fresh one, peach and citrus flavours with a lively acidity to help at the table. Ideal as an aperitif or with a few grilled sardines. The label also indicates a match with shellfish and sole meuniere. Serve at 8-10 degrees for best results. 

For over thirty years now, Jacques Frelin has been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country including the Languedoc where this wine comes from, “very popular with our customers” says importer Mary Pawle and I can see why. Highly Recommended. Well priced too.

Wine. What's it all about? Pét-Nat. And now there's an Irish one!

Wine. What's it all about? Pét-Nat
And now there's an Irish one!  

From Greece to Baltimore!

So what’s this Pét-Nat wine they are all talking about? Firstly, it is an abbreviation for pétillant naturel, the French term that roughly means naturally sparkling.

Is it then a copy of champagne? Far from it. It is the other way around if anything, as Pét-Nat has been around longer. Pét-Nat is bottled while still undergoing its first round of fermentation. The French call this process “methode ancestral” and you may see that on the label. 

You may see “bottle fermented,” or, the Italian, “col fondo,” (more or less a  pét-nat Prosecco). The crown cap and a little bit of sediment are other clues!

The method is pretty widespread across the wine world - I enjoyed a Greek one recently. Most are fun and good with food, especially lighter dishes. Great for al fresco lunches and that is where I came across the Greek - see below.

And now there's an Irish Pét-Nat, though not for sale yet! Produced by Mark Jenkinson Slane Co. Meath. It was unveiled in last Saturday's Drinks Theatre event in Ballymaloe and presenters Colm and Seamus says it is "fantastic, an Irish Pet Nat Rosé from Chardonnay & Pinot Noir vines in Tandardstown". For more, including next Sat's Natural Wine event, check the Drinks Theatre on Instagram.

Entré Vinyes Oníric Pét-Nat Penedes 2019, 12.5%, €13.45 Mary Pawle

Colour of this Spanish version is more lemon than yellow, cloudy. Floral aromas of modest intensity. You will get a big white “head” but it won’t last kissing time. Fresh, plush and, helped by the lovely pleasant feel of the sparkle on the palate, it is instantly accessible, with second glass appeal for sure. All this, along with the white fruit and just enough acidity to ensure a harmonious and easy-drinking experience, makes this one of the Highly Recommended.

Onric in Catalan translates as dreamer and Entre Vinyes is a personal project of Maria Barrena (Azul y Garanza in Navarra), the aim being to rescue old forgotten vineyards and restore a balanced ecosystem. This 60-year vineyard, surrounded by a rich biodiversity, is in the Baix Penedes region (in Catalonia) close to the Med. The grapes used are Xarel-lo (70%) and Muscat.

Azul y Garanza are very happy to add this one to their portfolio, “a clear reflection of the place they come from”. And I’m very happy too that Mary Pawle has imported it. An excellent example of the type and very well priced as well.

Mary Pawle tells me this has proved extremely popular. She stocked it in Urru in Bandon,  Manning’s Emporium, Ballylickey  & The Connemara Hamper in Clifden. Worth a try but you'll be lucky to get bottle.

Casa Belfi Col Fondo Organic Frizzante Rosso NV, 11.5%, €21.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny   

This Organic sparkling red wine is made from Raboso grown at the vineyards in San Polo di Piave (where they have been making wines since 1607). It is naturally fermented in the bottle, an Italian Pét-Nat. Raboso is a local Venetian variety named Raboso “Fiery in Italian”. But don’t worry, nothing extreme in this bottle! Piave is named after the local river and is famous for its cows milk cheese and for a decisive battle there during WW1.

Back to our frizzante which has a ruby red colour, with fine and persistent perlage. Fresh and fruity (sharp red fruit), floral and with spicy aromas. In the mouth, it is dry, with balanced tannins and a pleasant acidity. Quite a backbone of flavour and more assertive than white frizzantes. Highly Recommended.

Food pairings: This Rosso is recommended for rich first courses with meat sauces, salami, grilled and roast white and red meat. Serve at 10-12 degrees. This, they say, “is the same type of sparkling wine that our grandparents used to drink”.

Col Fondo: at the end of the alcoholic fermentation, the wine is racked off and stored in stainless steel tanks. As it ages the wine is frequently stirred in order to keep the yeasts in suspension (battonage). When the temperature starts rising in Spring, the time is perfect to make the wine sparkling.The still wine is bottled with some residual sugar and the consequent alcoholic fermentation forms the bubbles. There is no disgorgement. Magic!

Kamara Pure Rosé. A Greek Pét Nat in the Baltimore Sun

In July, we were enjoying a superb lunch in the sunny courtyard (right) of Baltimore's Customs House where Michelin chef Dede now operates. Could this get any better? Believe or not, it did. We (all the customers) were invited to taste one of the wines that the management had been trying out in the shade with Fionnuala of Wines Direct. 

Maria, Ahmet Dede’s business partner, told me they do that here and that they want good wines that their customers can afford, particularly by the glass. Our sample was that bit different, a delicious, light and easy-drinking Pét Nat, not from France but from Greece! What a lovely bonus. A friendly touch in a friendly and cool place. And that rosé went very well indeed with my chicken salad. 

Check Wines Direct for more details here

Delicious Duo From The Blaye Countryside By the Gironde Estuary

Fine Red And White Duo From Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 

Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours “Les Cousines” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOC) 2017, 12.5%, Mary Pawle Wines

Colour of this one hundred per cent Merlot is mid to dark ruby. Raspberry along with plum and black cherry are among the aromas (hint of clove too) and also appear in the mouth. Quite smooth and rounded and a fair bit of acidity too makes this a lively and flexible companion at the table. Soft tannins and a soft finish as well. This easy drinking wine, aromatic and fruity, is Very Highly Recommended. A great match with lamb dishes.

Blaye wines, as if they aren’t deemed good enough, are often forgotten about when discussing Bordeaux. It's all too easy to consign an area to the also-rans with a generalisation. Yet, as Clive Coates said in his Wines of Bordeaux (2004), “Generalisations..can be quickly exploded by samples”. And Les Cousines is both a sample and an excellent example of the very good in this particular area.

Château Peybonhomme-les-Tours “Le Blanc Bonhomme” Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux (AOC) 2018, 13.5%, €24.90 Mary Pawle

I tend to like my Bordeaux whites better if there’s plenty of Semillon in the blend and that is the case here, fifty/fifty with Sauvignon Blanc. The classic Bordeaux white will contain at least 25 percent Sauvignon Blanc, to ensure a certain aromatic freshness. For a richer style, a higher proportion of Semillon is used. Muscadelle is the third possible grape in the blend but many Bordeaux whites do not include it.

Bright straw is the colour of this biodynamic wine. Modest aromatics with delicate floral notes. Nothing shy about the flavours though with a ripe citrus spearheading the rich progress on the palate, excellent mouthfeel too. Persistent fruity finish too, drier towards the finalé. Well made (it has been 40% barrel fermented), well balanced, delicious and Highly Recommended. 

Well done again to Guillaume Hubert and his team here. And, speaking of recommendations, the suggested food pairings are Foie gras ravioli, marinated trout, cooked cheeses.

If you’re among the many Irish that have holidayed in or near Royan, then you’ve probably come across the wines of Blaye on sale in markets and so on on that side of the Gironde estuary. Blaye has a gentle rolling pastoral landscape while neighbouring Bourg  is more hilly.

The vineyard has been biodynamic since 2000, pruning in double guyot, spontaneous winter grassing, tillage in spring. Treatments combining Bordeaux mixture in small quantities with herbal teas such as horsetail and nettle are used.

A Trio Of Interesting Whites To Enjoy. Sancerre. Sauve. Pay D'Oc.

A Trio Of Interesting Whites To Enjoy

J

Jacques-Frelin Sancerre (AOP) 2018, 12.5%, €26.60 Mary Pawle Wines

Sancerre is a small wine district in the Loire Valley, famous for its crisp, aromatic white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. This one has a light gold colour with a tint of green. The pleasant aromas of this organic wine are both floral and mineral with gooseberry. A bracing acidity makes the taste buds sit up and take notice and what they notice is the apple and pear and citrus flavours, nothing over the top, all’s in balance. 

As it happens, there is a famous goats cheese (Chavignol) in the Loire Valley, a perfect match for the wine, which will also go well with fish and seafood. I’m certain the likes of Ardsallagh and St Tola would also pair well with it. Very Highly Recommended. Serving temperature is 10-12 degrees.

For over thirty years now, Jacques Frelin has been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country, in the Languedoc (where he is headquartered), in Gascony, in the Rhone and the Loire.

Fasoli Gino “Borgoletto” Soave (DOC) 2018, 12.5%, €15.55 Mary Pawle Wines

Mary Pawle imports quite a few well-priced wines and this 100% organic Garganega is one of them. It has a light straw colour, a pleasant bouquet both floral and fruity. Fresh and fruity on the palate, quite full-bodied, no shortage of acidity, with a long and dry finish. Highly Recommended.

The producers are also obviously very happy as they say, on the label, that it is “an ode to the terroir”. It is indeed a lovely easy-drinking wine and Fasoli Gino produce more Borgoletto than any other wine in their range. 

Their back label has most of the info you need, nicely and economically laid out: Vino Biologico. Hand picked 100% Garganega. Drink up to three years. And their social media addresses are also listed.

A dry, crisp, fruity white wine, Soave's naturally refreshing appeal led it to phenomenal popularity in the second half of the 20th century (pretty sure it was our wedding wine back in the day!). Wine-Searcher.com say it “is arguably the most famous white wine DOC in Italy”. But I think, most current Irish wine-drinkers would nominate Pinot Grigio as the most famous Italian white.

#fasoligino #borgoletto #soave #primavera #inbottiglia #vinobiologico #vinobiodinamico #natura #degustazionevini #vinobianco #eleganza #freschezza #vinoitaliano #madeinitaly #winetasting #springiscoming #spring #blossoms #organicwine #biodynamicwine #springinabottle #naturelovers #winelovers #elegant #freshness #whitewine #italianwine #pairing #italianclassics

Domaine de Brau Chardonnay Pays d’Oc (IGT) 2018, 14%, €16.50 Mary Pawle

Colour is a lovely mid-gold. Fairly intense aromas of white fruit and a hint of honey. A pleasant burst of tropical fruit finds it way across the palate, rich and round, with an almost creamy mouthfeel it finishes well with increasing citrus notes. Lightly oaked and organic, this fresh and surprising Chardonnay is Very Highly Recommended. Well priced too and that’s a bonus!

This is made from 100% Chardonnay and fermented and matured in oak. A great food wine! Serve fresh at 10 - 12°C, with white meat, poultry and fish, grilled or in sauce.

Gabriel and Wenny Taris, of Chateau de Brau, are too close to the hard Languedoc ground to get carried way with romantic cliches - it is not sunshine all the way: "Not all vintages are exceptional. There are the weather conditions. And the weeds that we will never overcome. And the little beasts and larger animals who demand their share."

That they share with the little and large of the local animal world gives you the clue that the work here is more in cooperation with nature than against it. 

Very Good Wines From The Badlands

Superb Wines From Spain's Badlands

Badlands? In Spain? You may well ask. The Bardenas Reales is a semi-desert natural region, or badlands, of some 42,000 hectares in southeast Navarre (Spain). The soils are made up of clay, chalk and sandstone and have been eroded by water and wind, creating surprising shapes, canyons, plateaus, tabular structures and isolated hills. Here there is extremely arid soil where the vines are grown organically. And this is where you’ll find Azul y Garanza.

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017, 13%, €21.85 Mary Pawle

The Intro: a limited edition, single vineyard, organic, low intervention, unfiltered red wine made from 100% Garnacha in the northern Spanish province of Navarra. “Naturally wild”.

The Lowdown: Mid to dark ruby. Red fruit, berry and cherry, in the attractive aromas, strongly fruity on the palate and a touch of sweet spice.  A fresh and sufficient acidity ensures harmony through to the satisfying dry finish. 

The Conclusion: Another well-made wine from the enterprising outfit that is Azul y Garanza, a terrific example of the Garnacha, and Very Highly Recommended.

The Background: The Garnacha vines have an average age of 40 years and grow at an altitude of 550 meters. They add: "The wine spends 6 months in amphora and 6 months in used 300 L barrels. Fertilizer: No Treatments: Sulphur (minimum dose). Eminently drinkable especially with lighter meat dishes, rich seafood, warm salads."

Tip for opening the bottle: the cork is sealed with wax. Don’t worry. Get out your waiter’s helper type corkscrew. Many easy-pull type corkscrews just can’t handle the wax. Simply angle your corkscrew into the top of the wax. Next, slowly twist the auger in, as you gradually bring your corkscrew to an upright position. Proceed as normal and the circle of wax on top will come away with the cork. This is fine at home but openings in a restaurant may require a little more finesse!

Desierto de Azul y Garanza Navarra (DO) 2007, 14%, €39.00 Mary Pawle

“Desierto is an exclusive wine made solely by the grapes from our Desierto (desert) vineyard.”

The purity of the nearby desert gives the vineyard an advantageous pathway to produce this bio wine without too much trouble. Perhaps the biggest human intervention is its 15 months in French oak.

Intense cherry colour with some lightening on the rim. Aromas are of ripe dark fruit, some savoury notes, and also smoky notes. Flavours deep and long-lasting, amazing concentration, fleshy, with a persistent finish. A singular wine from a pretty unique location and Very Highly Recommended.

There was a little bit of sediment in the 2007! Didn’t note that though when I enjoyed the 2012 a few months earlier. But no bother in any case.